Welcome back, as we continue the account of my recent visit
to
Alton and
Farnham. After departing
Alton by train, our party of pub and beer
enthusiasts left
Farnham station and walked down the hill, towards the town
centre. Somewhat perversely, the
A31 Farnham bypass runs through a natural
valley at the bottom of the slope – I thought bypasses were meant to avoid town
centres, rather than run straight through them, but this one seems to work. I
remember coming upon this busy road, quite suddenly, three years ago, when I
emerged from the trees and made my way towards the finishing marker for the
North
Downs Way.It took the best part of five years to complete this long-distance
footpath – five years marred by events at home, work and also globally –
COVID!
Although just 10 miles on paper, that final stretch between
Guildford and
Farnham, seemed to go on forever. Consequently, the pints I enjoyed in two of
Farnham’s excellent pubs, were all the more rewarding.
One of them
(Nelson
Arms), was on the afternoon’s itinerary, so I was looking forward to a more
relaxing this time around. After crossing this busy
“hybrid” bypass, we headed up into
the town centre, and along
South Street, before turning left into a road called
The Borough. Judging by the shops and other commercial premises, this
thoroughfare acts as the town’s
High Street, and it was also the home of the
first, as well as the last, of the alehouses on our walkabout.
That first pub was the
Queen’s Head, a
Fuller’s pub with two
snug areas and large windows looking out over the bustling
High Street.
Comfortable and cosy inside, the pub started life as a coffee shop, around
1735,
although the building is far older. Today, the
Queen’s Head is a family run,
town alehouse, offering good food, as well as live music, plus, of course, the
full range of
Fuller’s beers. I opted for a pint of
HSB, a beer that the
brewery inherited from
Gale’s, and seemed to have improved on.
I also grabbed something to eat, an activity that
Martin
claimed he was duty-bound to ensure I partook of. This is something of a
long-standing joke, that goes back to the first visit to
Bath that I made, with the
Beer & Pub’s Forum. On that occasion, lunch was inextricably missing from
the agenda. I think I was the only person to comment on its absence, but
“Paul’s
need for solid sustenance” has been a source of amusement ever since, on
subsequent
Proper Days Out. The
Queen’s turned out to be a good call, with a menu
pitched at just the right level. There were dishes to suit all tastes and
appetites, and looking for something to satisfy my hunger, without it being too
filling I opted for a
Club Ciabatta. With a filling of roast chicken, bacon
plus lettuce and tomato, this sandwich and a half certainly assuaged my hunger
for the rest of the day.
It wasn’t far to the next pub, a cosy and pleasant, retreat
called the
Hop Blossom. Tucked away in the quaintly named,
Long Garden Walk, I
was convinced this charming corner pub was a free house, but instead it turned
out to be another
Fuller’s pub. I should, perhaps have realised from the beer
range, but the guest ale, in the form of
St Austell Anthem, threw me. My
previous encounter with this beer had been at the
Salamander, a
Bath Ales’s
pub, which the group visited last
November on, what for me, was the second pub
forum trip to
Bath.
The
Hop Blossom is named after the hop gardens which were
adjacent to the pub until the early part of the last century. The pub itself
was built in
1864 and with its neighbours, forms part of a conservation area.
Externally, a number of floral displays and some well-stocked, hanging baskets,
added to the charm, and given the fine weather we were experiencing, it was no
surprise to witness a couple of groups, siting outside. Internally, there was one
long bar, with some smart green tiling, on the wall behind. I’m a real fan of
this type of coloured tiling, as not only does it look smart, but also imparts
a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere. It reminds me of the
Nelson Arms, back home
in
Tonbridge, which has a similarly tiled back wall, in the corner of the
saloon bar.
The Hop
Blossom’s website describes itself
as a “pub for all seasons,” that offers a warm welcome year-round. In winter
it's a cosy retreat, perfect for enjoying a refreshing pint of beer while
roasting chestnuts on the open fire. During summer, the pub is a place to sit
at one of the outside tables whilst soaking up the Surrey sunshine in style. Whatever
the season, the Hop Blossom had a really nice feel to it and was the sort of
pub that I’d be happy to make as my local, is I lived in the town.
Farnham’s own Nelson Arms
was the next pub on the itinerary, and this was my second, and as rather more
relaxed visit to this attractive looking pub, as explained at the beginning of
this piece. Situated a short distance up the aptly named Castle Street, (the
town’s castle is situated towards the top of this hillside street), the Nelson is
a half-timbered building, dating from the 14th century. It’s
had a coat of paint since my previous visit (see photo above), which in my view enhances the pub,
but apart from that, little has changed, certainly externally. Before entering
the
Nelson, I couldn’t help noticing the blackboard sign outside, advertising
home made pies. Had I known this, and had the timings been right, I would have gone
for the pie option, rather than the
Club Ciabatta at the
Queen’s Head, although
that would have meant a very late lunch!
The beer range at the
Nelson was as follows:
Hogs Back TEA,
plus two similar beers from
Timothy Taylor – Golden Best, plus
Landlord, of
course, although you knew that! I went for the
TEA, which I think I had last
time around, and with everyone’s glass suitably charged, we decamped, en masse
to the large double room, the other side of the fireplace. Looking back over
the photos, most of the party seemed engrossed in their phones – perhaps some
urgent
Discourse matter had come up. Speaking of which, I discovered that one
Discourse
member present, lives a short train ride away from me, in the village of
Marden.
Once again, I can’t recall his name, although
Martin might remember who he was.
A few final words on the
Nelson, regarding the rather solid and
very traditional feel to the part of the pub where we were sitting. There are many
original dark beams and some exposed brickwork with a log fire in between the
two main seating areas. The furniture is varied and comfortable with some
settee. According to the pub’s website, the
Nelson can be very busy serving
food early evenings, although that wasn’t my experience three years ago. Full
marks though to a lovely old pub that manages to infuse its obvious history,
with a more modern twist.
Moving on to the penultimate
pub of the day, saw us walking back towards the town centre and to the mind-boggling,
Teller’s Arms. This conversion by
Young’s of a former
Lloyd's bank, into a
modern gastro-pub, is somewhere that has to be seen. Think spacious and high ceiling,
lots of upholstered seating, rugs, dark wood, chandeliers and old portraits
adorning the walls, and you are transported back in time to an old
London pub,
that is obviously at the smart end of the spectrum.
This was the obvious intention of the pub company, but it does
seem to work. There is a strong focus on food, which is served all day,
although plenty of non-dinning spaces are provided.
Young’s London Original (so
original that it’s brewed in
Wolverhampton), plus a
Hog’s Back beer complete the
lineup on the bar, but quite frankly,
Young’s beers are a pale shadow of what
we enjoyed
20-30 years ago, when they were still brewed in
Wandsworth. A stunning pub though, which must have cost the
Pubco a fortune to kit out. It’s large enough to get lost in, and there seem
plenty of places to hide, for those who don’t want be seen. I haven’t got a huge amount to say regarding the
Borough
Beer House, which was the final
Farnham pub of the day. I haven’t got any
photos, either, but to complete the record the pub opened in
December 2023, in
a building that dates from
1674. It was formerly the
Bailiff's Hall in
Farnham’s
historic
Town Hall, the one that seems to have been replaced by a more modern
version – see photo, opposite. The downstairs seating area is quite small although there
is a larger upstairs room, which is where most of us gravitated to. With six hand-pumps serving a variety of cask ale styles from around the
UK, normally
including a dark beer, a best bitter and something
“new wave”, plus eighteen
keg lines, providing a range of changing beers from
UK, Belgium and beyond. My
beer choice to finish on, was
Siren Multiverse Dark Mild, a mid-strength cask
ale.
I left around the same time as
Martin, although with a train
back to
Alton to catch, he went on ahead. My train wasn’t due to depart until
later, and when it did come it was on time. Connections at
Guildford and
Redhill all went to plan, and I was back in
Tonbridge in time for the last bus
of the day, which saved a hike up to
Bailey Towers. Verdict – another excellent
day out, and one in a part of the country that is often overlooked.