The Star continues to shine out brightly over Bath

You left our group of intrepid pub explorers, as we departed the Salamander, a pub that turned out to be something of a disappointment and headed off towards one which we all knew was going to be the star of the show – in more ways than one! We were making for the famous Star Inn, which is one of the most famous pubs in the city. A pub renowned not just for its unspoilt interior, of five interconnecting rooms but also for its impressive frontage of mellow, Bath stone, overlooking the Paragon. The latter is a street of Georgian houses with matching doors and windows which compliment the pleasing stone buildings that line both sides of the Paragon, as it leads off in a north-easterly direction away from the city centre.

The Star was first licensed as a pub in 1759, with an historic interior that was fitted out in 1928, by Gaskell & Chambers – and like me, you thought G&C only made hand pumps! Since 2001 the Star has been the principal outlet in Bath of Abbey Ales, who brew nearby and also own several other pubs in the city, including the famous Coeur de Lion. Abbey Ales also saved the Star from an uncertain future, as its owners, Bass were contemplating selling it off for other purposes.

Internally the pub has four small rooms, with wooden benches around the wood panelled walls and during the cooler months, roaring open fires provide a welcoming warmth which adds to the general feeling of coziness. As well as the Abbey Ales range, Bass is served under gravity, via large glass jugs, direct to your glass, or you can splash out on a 3-pint jug, and share it amongst your friends. The Star is one of only a handful of pubs left in the country where beer is still served in this time-honoured way, and it really is a place where time has stood still.

After being left behind by Martin, Will and Stafford Paul in their rush to get their Bass fix, I arrived at the pub with Jon and Tracey, who both hail from Somerset. I understand they met at Bath University, so their extensive knowledge of this charming Georgian city, meant they were able to point out local landmarks, as well as less obvious things concerning the surrounding buildings. Arriving at the pub, we found the advanced party waiting for us in one of the snug areas, stuck into a 3-pint jug of Bass, although us latecomers decided it would be more prudent to buy our beer by the pint.

Regardless of quantity, the Bass was excellent, even though it had an entirely flat appearance, - hence the expression “flat Bass.” Despite lacking in the head, the beer certainly wasn't lacking in condition or taste. This was my second visit to the Star, and like my first visit, back in March 2022, this wonderfully unspoilt, and characterful pub certainly didn't disappoint. It's definitely a place where one could spend the entire afternoon, and not just for the Bass, as the Star also stocks beers from local brewer Abbey Ales, as mentioned earlier.  I noticed the company’s Bell Ringer on sale, alongside a stronger dark ale, called Black Friar, but also on the bar was a collaboration beer from Five Points Brewing and Adnams.

It was therefore with more than a little disappointment that we moved on to the next pub, the strangely named, Curfew.  The latter represented the most northerly point of the day’s pub tour, but apart from the beer, which was very good, I’ve little to say about this former Wadworth pub.  Martin summed it up nicely, as a boutique-type pub that wouldn't look out of place in Tunbridge Wells, and it certainly reminded both of us of the Allkin Tap, a micro pub, which opened last year, just off the town's main shopping area.

I didn't take many photos at the Curfew, but it was a pleasant enough pub, and the staff were very welcoming. The beer selection included London Pride, St. Austell Tribute, Draught Bass, a pale ale called “Gizmo” from Electric Bear (never heard of them), plus Haka New Zealand Pale Ale, from Butcombe Brewery.  The latter proved a good choice, although the Bass was also good, according to this who tried it – but not quite on a par with the Bass at the Star. It was nearly time to move on, but before doing so, Martin had to rush off to meet Mrs RM, who had just arrived in Bath, after a 200-mile drive down from Yorkshire.

We met up with the couple at the Bell, another of Bath’s real pub gems, but one that didn’t open midweek, until 4pm. Consequently, it was starting to get dark as we walked towards the pub. Although different to the Star, the Bell is a real cracker, with a lengthy, single bar at the front of the building, which leads up to a raised area, at the opposite end of the bar. This acts as the stage, an obviously important part of a pub famed for its live music sessions. These are held, three or four times a week, leading to endorsements from no lesser luminaries than Robert Plant and Peter Gabriel. There is also a small back bar, used mainly for practice and open-mike, music sessions. The Bell was purchased in 2013 by a group of its customers, fans and workers, and is now run as a cooperative.

It was relatively quiet when we arrived, but there was a good selection of cask ales to spark our interest. These included Otter Ale, Summer Lightning, Arbor C Bomb and Palmers 200. I opted for the latter, as it must be several decades since I last enjoyed a pint from this quite localised West Country brewery, based in Bridport, Dorset. Palmers 200 was first brewed to celebrate 200 years of brewing by this family-owned company, and is a full-bodied, malt-driven beer, with a distinctive bitter finish. For me, it represented the perfect beer to end this excellent tour of Bath pubs. In case you hadn’t guessed, all the pubs visited, feature in CAMRA’s latest Good Beer Guide, a fact which might explain the inclusion of some of them on this outing.

After one of the best coffees I've had for along time, I boarded the London train and enjoyed a relaxing  journey back to Paddington. I was then and was able to make my onward connection to Tonbridge, in plenty of time. Son Matthew even picked me up from the station, enabling me to get to bed relatively early, thereby ensuring a good night’s sleep. So where next, for this group?

 

Bath - revisited - November 2024

Last Tuesday’s trip to Bath was probably my 5^th visit to this attractive city and whilst most of the previous ones had taken place during a fairly concentrated period, 30 or more years ago, this day out in the city was a follow-up to the one I made back in March 2022, with a select group drawn from the Beer & Pubs Forum. The weather was certainly better this time around, and even though it was dull and overcast, conditions were mainly dry, and certainly mild for the time year.

Although two pubs on the itinerary, had featured on the list 18 months ago, they were well worth a repeat visit. The other four though, were new to me, although I think I’m right in saying they were familiar to the majority of my companions. Tuesday wasn't the best day of the week for me, given my semi-retired, part-time three-day work week, but it was certainly a better day for travelling compared to a Friday, with plenty room on the trains, on both outward and return journey.

My split ticket, super off-peak return ticket restricted travel to certain timed trains, and I'm sure it makes sense for the software to allocate tickets seats accordingly, but I did cheat slightly on the outward journey into London. I was supposed to have travelled on the 9:00 Tonbridge - Charing Cross service, but this seemed nonsense as the ticket states “No specific seat reserved.” I actually caught the train that departed 35 minutes earlier, as at my time of life I don't like to rush unless I absolutely have to. Also, it’s always been part of my travel plans to allow ample time for cross-London connections, such as Charing Cross to Paddington.

Fortunately, planned industrial action by TFL workers was called off, so there were no issues travelling between the two London terminals via the Bakerloo line, and after Oxford Circus I even got a seat. There was a bit of time to kill at Paddington, so I inquired about switching my ticket to an earlier train. The answer was I could do so, but it would incur a rather costly surcharge. I dropped the idea, grabbed a cup of coffee and just enjoyed sitting there, observing the comings and goings that typify a busy railway station. All the time I was keeping an eye on the nearby departure board, waiting for the departure platform of the 10:30 train to Bath to be indicated on the board. Once on board there were plenty of seats to choose from, despite having reserved a seat it wasn't really necessary. As it happened someone was sitting in the actual seat, I'd reserved but as there was plenty of room opposite, I didn't say anything and settled down to enjoy the journey to Bath. 

A fact here for train buffs, the GWR service on this part of the network, was bimodal, as although it was powered by over-head electrified wires from Paddington for the majority of the journey, the train switched to diesel power, once we’d arrived at Chippenham. You could tell by the noise, and the vibration. This change in power source surprised me, as I’d assumed the GWR mainline had been electrified all the way to Bristol and beyond. Talking to former rail workers (Jon & Tracey), who were on the trip shed, some light on this anomaly – difficulties in running power cables through the tunnels into Bristol Temple Meads. Despite these anomalies the train pulled into Bath Spa station on time, which allowed sufficient time to walk to the first pub on the itinerary, whilst stopping to photograph those city landmarks that I’d missed from the 2022 trip, as it was pouring down with rain on that occasion. . 

Tucked away in the maze of narrow streets, close to the Abbey, the Roman thermal baths and other central Bath attractions, the Old Green Tree is the current local CAMRA branch pub of the year. Occupying a 300-year-old building, which features three oak-panelled rooms, that include a snug at the front of the pub, a centrally located drinking lobby, and a comfortable back bar. In my search for other members of our little group, I initially made my way to the latter, before stopping briefly to buy myself a well-deserved pint from the lobby. I was spoilt for choice, with beers from Butcombe, Glastonbury and RCH, along with a house beer - Green Tree Bitter, which is brewed exclusively for the pub by Blindman's micro-brewery. It was a revelation seeing the two former RCH beers on the bar, as I thought the brewery had closed a long time ago, but following a rather convoluted takeover/buyout involving a brewery (Nuttycombe) that I’d never heard of until last Tuesday, Pitchfork Bitter and Old Slug Porter, are once again gracing select West Country bars.

 I then found my way to the cosy snug bar at the front, and it was there that I found the initial three members of the party – Stafford Paul, in his trademark, shirtsleeves attire, Jon Benger plus his wife Tracey. Soon after we were joined by Will, aka Sheffield Hatter. The arrival of Retired Martin, 15 minutes or so later, completed the group for the initial part of the tour, although our numbers were swelled further by the appearance of Mrs RM, when we reached the Bell, the last pub on the official list, and the penultimate one on the revised tour.

With an important work meeting the following morning I had to pace myself, which was difficult given the impressive beer section. The pale-coloured, and well-hopped, Pitchfork, an old favourite from 20 or so years ago, certainly did the trick, although if we had stayed a little longer at the Old Green Tree, I would probably have succumbed to a swift half of Old Slug Porter – for old times sake. Incidentally, Wednesday mornings SWOT analysis meeting dragged on for three hours, so it was just as well that I took things easy, in Bath! 

Next up was the Raven, a famous Bath institution, housed in a multi room building, spread out over three different levels. Our group had made a brief visit to the Raven, 18 months previously, towards the end of our March 2022 tour, but this time around the pub was our almost universally agreed designated lunch stop, something I will jokingly take credit for. I said, “almost universally”, because Will used the lunch break to take a bus trip out to the famous Larkhall Inn, a pub with a two-star listing on CAMRA’s National Heritage register.

The Raven proved a wise choice for the rest of us, with all five of us enjoying an excellent meat pie with mash and veg. I was under the slightly naïve impression that the pies were made on the premises, but Martin thought (correctly as it turned out) that the pies at the Raven are bought in from Bristol-based, Pieminister Pies. Whatever its source, my steak and Raven Ale Pie was excellent, and whilst most of us chose the same option, Stafford Paul went for the classic beef and ale, Raven Stew, which was reported as equally good.

There was a nice and easy-going atmosphere at the Raven, with a largely student and young person’s crowd. That said, us codgers certainly didn’t feel out of place, and, unlike our previous visit, which admittedly took place on a Friday evening, when people were out celebrating the end of the week, there were plenty of seats, as well as room to move around. The only caution I would use, is the old wooden, Victorian staircases are both steep and narrow, so remember that when heading down to the basement toilets.

Reluctantly, we bade farewell to the Raven, and wandered the short distance around the corner, to pub No. 3, The Salamander, where Will was waiting for us, outside. The Salamander is a Bath Ales pub - a brewery that has some sort of tie-up with St Austell, and this was evident from the line-up on the bar – three from St Austell (Proper Job, Autumn Bronze and Anthem). Bath Ales also had two hand pulls, but they were both for the same beer, the ubiquitous Gem. I went for the Anthem, which was a new one for me, a 3.8% English Pale Ale, smooth and hoppy but, as Will, who kindly bought me a half of this beer found out, it was priced at £6.50 for two halves! 

The sole server behind the bar also broke off midway though serving us, to convey a plate of food to a group seated elsewhere in the pub – an act which resulted in a rebuke from Will, on one of the online beer and pub forums. It’s not good asking me which one, but Will was well within his rights to remark on this very strange behaviour. The Salamander was pleasant enough, and quite cosy, but Martin summed the place up nicely, as “a small-town pub running on upmarket food trade.” So, a disappointment, as was pub No.5, but you will have to wait for the next installment to find out what it was about the Curfew, a former Wadworth pub that didn’t really float my boat.

 

 

We bought a pub

Regular readers of this blog may remember a post I wrote at the start of the year, with the title “Swan looks to the village for salvation”.  The Swan in question, is the pub of that name, which stands on the green of the tiny, tucked away village of West Peckham, roughly half-way between Tonbridge and Maidstone. Dating back to the early part of the 16^th Century, the Swan has been a pub since 1665, although not always under that name. 

So, what about the pub itself, and the tiny village where it is located? West Peckham is certainly tucked away, and that is no exaggeration because it is a rare “no drive through” village, meaning that the road into the village is the same route out of it. In other words, West Peckham isn't somewhere you can drive through, on the way to another destination, instead it is a place you have to want to visit.

Fortunately, the presence of the Swan on the Green is ample enough reason to drive, or walk (Greensand Way) to West Peckham, and despite its relatively isolated position, the Swan enjoys a strong and loyal local following, and also attracts custom from further afield. Until very recently one aspect that drew in additional trade was the range of the Swan’s house-brewed beers, produced in an old coal shed, at the rear of the pub. Up to eight cask ales, all named with a “Swan” theme (Bewick, Cygnet, Trumpeter and Whooper), had been brewed since 2000, but sadly, brewing ceased in the spring of 2023 as the self-built plant was said to be approaching the end of its working life.

Even without the house-brewed beers the Swan is a destination pub in its own right, given its attractive location on the village green, at the crossroads of the Weald and Greensand ways. In addition, the pub’s kitchen offers everything from “lite bites” to full-on family dining. One other claim to fame, but possibly not for the right reasons, is the Swan starred as the village pub, in the rather dreadful remake the H.E. Bates classic, The Darling Buds of May.  This was the production that instead of David Jason and Pam Ferris, featured Bradley Walsh as Pop Larkin and Joanna Scanlan, as Ma. (The least said about it, the better!)

Despite this illustrious trading record, and in spite of the Swan remaining a successful pub and popular restaurant, the decision taken, just over a year ago by the current owner and licensee Gordon Milligan, to sell up and leave the trade after 24 years at the helm, sent shock waves through the tight-knit local community. Fortunately, rather than seek to convert it into housing, Mr Milligan approached the villagers and asked if they wanted to take the pub on. Their answer was a resounding “yes”, so a steering group was set up with the aim of purchasing the building collectively for the village.

The idea attracted a lot of interest, not just within West Peckham, but from the surrounding west Kent area as well, and with this in mind the group was given six month’s exclusivity to come up with a plan. After agreeing a purchase price with Mr Milligan, the group then looked at sourcing funding from the Community Ownership Grant scheme, as well as seeking donations from villagers and local businesses. The aim was to set up a Community Benefit Society, known as the Swan Community Project Ltd, which will then own the Swan and be responsible for its future. The society is a “not for profit” company with a mission to operate for the benefit the Community, and in order to achieve this, any profits will re-invested in the project.

I concluded my January article with the words, “I wish the group every success and might even chip in myself!”  Well, now I have, because after signing up to the project, I've been receiving regular updates. I’d been meaning to attend some of the meetings the group was holding, but never really seemed to quite find he time. Then, during the third week in October, I received an email saying that the offer had just a couple more days to run, and that more investors were needed to reach the investment target.

That plea provided the impetus for me step up to the plate and after purchasing the minimum investment of, I’m now the proud owner of 250 shares in the Swan Community Project Ltd. A couple of days later, I received an email thanking me for my purchase, and confirming that, along with others, my investment was sufficient to secure ownership of the pub. Furthermore, because that final push had raised more than the committee thought, there was a sufficient surplus to put towards other purposes connected with the pub – kitchen refurbishment for a start. Consequently, the share offer has been left open until 7^th November, with aim of reaching the magic, half million pounds target.

I'm not quite sure what happens next, although the group is holding a “pop-up” meeting, at the pub, on 5^th November. I shall be traveling back that day from a trip to Bath, with members of the Beer & Pubs Forum, so won’t be able to attend, but I’m sure to find out in due course. In the meantime, the following statement from the group, encapsulates nicely, what they are trying to achieve with the pub.

 "The Swan is the hub of our community, a place where locals and those from the surrounding countryside, villages and towns can socialise and take part in quiz nights, music nights and other social events. It’s at the heart of our Village Fête, Produce Show, Bonfire night and many other Community events. As the only full-time provider of hospitality, food, and drinks for several miles it brings money into the local economy, supporting local businesses and tourism. It’s also a major employer in the parish, providing five full-time jobs and the first work experience for many younger members of the Community."

 

 

 

 

5th November - time for a pint of Bonfire Boy

It was a case of “second time lucky” on Saturday lunchtime when it came to tracking down a drop of Harvey’s Bonfire Boy. The latter is the company’s seasonal offering for the month of November and was first brewed in tribute to the fire services who extinguished the fire which threatened to engulf the brewery in 1996. The beer is now brewed each year for the bonfire boys and belles who participate in Lewes's famous November 5^th celebrations. 

Described as "Bonfire Night in a bottle" Bonfire Boy is a dark amber, malty brew, with a smoky flavour and a slightly charred, bitter aftertaste. These are just the sort of attributes one might expect from a beer brewed as a tribute to November 5^th Bonfire Night celebrations. However, despite these obvious selling points, the beer isn’t that easy to come by, especially in the free trade, so it is here that the internet and social media play their part.

I am talking here about the availability of Bonfire Boy in cask form, as the beer is relatively easy to obtain in bottles – if you know where to look, that is. Last Tuesday I noticed on the Nelson Arms’s website that cask Bonfire Boy was on sale at the pub, a good sign for sure, but something with the potential to peak too soon, if you get my drift. By that I meant now that the beer was on sale and given that many other beer lovers would have looked on the Nelson’s website, as I did, there was a very real danger that the cask might run out, before I’d been able to get down to the pub and try it.

All too often the things we guard against have an unfortunate habit of coming true, and as I entered the Nelson late Thursday afternoon, my initial optimism and joy at seeing the Bonfire Boy pump clip indicating the beer was still on sale, quickly turned to disappointment as the beer an out, before my very eyes. I’d ordered a pint of this eagerly anticipated beer, and watched in eager anticipation as the barman pulled me a pint.“Oh, it’s gone,” he suddenly said, and not quite twigging what he meant, I foolishly responded, “What’s gone?” 

It was the Bonfire Boy of course, and the cask had obviously come to an end, even as the barman was pulling it. Talk about bad timing on my part! Had I been an hour earlier, or perhaps even just 10 minutes sooner, I might have been enjoying a pint of this elusive beer, but instead I had to have something else. Surrey Hills Collusion isn’t a bad pint, by any means, but when one is anticipating a beer that is full-bodied, malty and combining a smoky flavour with a well-balanced bitter finish, it was bound to be a disappointment. I stuck with just the one pint and made my way home. 

The following morning, an announcement on my phone, flashed up on the West Kent CAMRA Facebook page. It was from the Dovecote, at Capel – the pub where the recent Green Hop Festival had taken place, and it was sharing the good news that Harvey’s Bonfire Boy had just gone on sale at the pub. Good news indeed, but every reason to get over to the Dovecote and enjoy a pint, before it runs out at that pub, as well.

As luck would have it, that morning, I’d arranged to join son Matthew for a café breakfast – not quite a “greasy spoon” one, but one not far off it. So, after a cheese omelette, plus a couple of hash browns (Matthew went for the “big boy’s" breakfast), plus a visit to B&Q, I suggested we drive home via Capel. Matthew didn’t need much persuasion, especially as I was driving, so just after 1pm, we drove into the car park of the Dovecote and stepped inside. The pub was busy, mainly with diners, and I must admit the food looked pretty good, but I only had eyes for the cask end, which sure enough was displaying a pump-clip for Bonfire Boy.

I ordered a pint and made a comment to the landlord about how I’d narrowly missed the beer the day before. “You’ll need to be quick with this one,” he replied, "it only went on yesterday and as expected, is selling well". Mine host then confessed to having a sore head that morning, having sampled one too many the previous evening, before reverently placing the full, and attractive looking pint on the bar counter before me.

I’m sure you don’t need me t tell you that the beer was pure nectar, and as you can see from the photo, well-conditioned, and clear as a bell. Knowing I could only have the one, I savoured the beer, although I didn’t dally over it either. As Matthew and I sat there, the pub filled up some more, and the arrival of a party of lady ramblers, complete with accompanying pooches helped set the scene of this charming rural pub. The group had obviously pre-booked because a large table had been set aside for them, with space beneath for their canine companions. It was the perfect lunchtime intermission, and the end of a worthy quest – temporarily, as there must be more Bonfire Boy to enjoy before its availability slackens off, in favour of the next seasonal offering.