If the rumours
are true, and I’ve no reason to believe they aren’t, CAMRA – the Campaign for
Real Ale is making plans to publish a 2022 edition of is best selling Good Beer
Guide. Why is this newsworthy? I hear you ask.
Well, in case
it had escaped your attention, we’re still in the grip of a global pandemic,
and the UK is still in the middle of its 3rd National Lockdown. In
many cases, certainly here in Kent – origin of the fast becoming, world dominant B.1.1.7
variant of Coronavirus, pubs have been closed since the beginning of November, with no signs
of being allowed to reopen until May, at the earliest.
This leaves a number of quite serious hurdles to surmount if an edition
of Britain’s top-selling pub guide is to grace the nation’s bookshops, from next
autumn; not least of which is how will local CAMRA branches go about surveying
and selecting entries. Also, given the devastating effect closure has already had
on the licensed trade, how many pubs will be in a financial position to reopen
once they’re allowed?
At the beginning of October last year, I wrote a lengthy
piece on the difficulties associated with producing such a guide, so I don’t
intend on going over them again. What I will say is few people appreciate the effort
that goes into the Good Beer Guide, and the sheer volume of work that has to be
done before the publication is sent off to the printers and “put to bed,” as they say in the print trade.
Nearly all of this work is unpaid and carried out by branch
volunteers. The cynics amongst you might say that as these individuals have nothing
else to do (they can’t go to the pub, can they?), they will be quite happy
sitting at home, acting as unpaid data in-putters. This misses the point, and what’s
more the data the volunteers will be working for is likely to be the most up to
date and, given the evolving situation, highly likely to change.
Before going any further, I haven’t actually seen the plans
that CAMRA have for what will be an interim, rather than a full, true to form
edition. There is no news of this venture on CAMRA’s official website, although
after searching I did find one local CAMRA branch making tentative plans for
surveying and selecting potential pubs - virtually?
Instead, I am relying on information published by avid GBG “ticker”
and prolific blogger, Retired Martin, on his site of the same name.Martin mentions
CAMRA Discourse – a forum I am unable to access now that I’m no longer a CAMRA
member, before going on to state that the guide will contain around 3,600 pubs
that are identified as open and serving cask, with a launch planned for late
October.
Sales of the guide will inject some much-needed cash into
CAMRA’s coffers but, more importantly, will keep the whole Good Beer Guide idea
alive. The publication of even an interim guide, will also provide a sense of
continuity – an important point to note in what will be the 50th
anniversary of CAMRA’s foundation.
Although I am no longer a member, I still have a soft spot for
the Campaign, so if the guide does appear next year,I wish the GBG, and CAMRA all the very best.
You can read more about the work that goes into the publication of the Good Beer Guide each year, by clicking on the link, here.
One of the
worst things about the current lockdown, and perhaps any lockdown, is the
uncertainty. Not knowing how things are going to end or how they will come
about is bad enough, but worse still is not having anything to look forward to.
The reality
of this was brought home to me in a conversation I was partially involved with.
It took place in our local chippy whilst I was waiting – socially distanced of
course, for our fish supper to be fried.
As a family
we’ve used the same excellent, local chippy for years, and for the majority of that time
the business has been owned by a Turkish Cypriot family. Normally there’s the
owner and his wife behind the counter, and quite often the proprietor’s father.
But for the past few months there’s only been the boss and one of his employees
present. It turns out his father managed to get back to Cyprus, before the ban
on travel came into force, and I’m assuming his wife is at home, looking after
the kids.
It’s one of
the couple’s children who made the remark that’s the inspiration of the title of
this post, proving there’s a lot of truth in the saying, “Out of the mouth of
babes and sucklings.”The story behind
it was related to me and a couple of other customers, whilst we were standing
in line waiting for our fish and chips to be cooked.
The
normally quite jovial owner told us that lockdown was having a bad effect on his
children, cooped up indoors for much of the day and unable to meet or mix with
other children.His daughter has been
particularly affected, and the comment she came out with one afternoon, really
melted his heart. “Daddy,” she said, “there’s nothing to look forward to
anymore.”
“What could
I say?” He asked us, and apart from the obvious sympathetic noises, there was
very little we could say in reply. The trouble is, that little girl was right,
as with lockdown No. 3 in full swing there really is very little to look
forward to at present. Of course, this tedious situation won’t last forever –
or at least it had better not! But when you’re a child, a month can seem like a
longtime, whilst a year appears to go on forever.
When you
think about it it’s the little pleasures in life that we all look forward to,
as well as some of the bigger ones, which help us get through a busy working
week, or a spell of bad weather, and it’s these pleasures, whatever they might
be, that are not just important, they are quite often vital in keeping us
focused, sane and not freaking out.
Many of us
look forward to nights out with friends or meeting up with family, whilst
others look towards bigger things. That well-earned summer holiday, short city
break, or a meal out with a loved one, all help us get through times of stress
or just the mundane pressures associated with everyday living.
For me, its
choosing a holiday destination and then carrying out the necessary planning to
bring that trip away into reality. Equally, it’s a meet-up with friends where,
invariably a visit to a pub will be involved, whether as the main theme or as
an aside. A walk in the countryside or, a “Proper Day Out,” where a group of
like-minded individuals travels to a town, renowned for its range and variety
of decent pubs and, of course, decent beer.
It was one
such day out in Burton-on-Trent, almost a year ago, that represented my last
such carefree and enjoyable, get together, and my last meticulously planned
opportunity to visit a different location.
There will be
other such days in the future – these kill-joy public health officials can’t
keep us locked in our own homes forever – even though they seemed determined to
try their hardest. These obsessive
fanatics focused solely on a single issue – Covid, at the moment, fail to
understand the value and the pleasure that trips such as these contribute to
our happiness and sense of well-being, and how much planning and looking
forward to such events matters in all of our lives.
What a
dull, boring and uninteresting world we are bequeathing to future generations
if we prohibit activities that involve socializing, travel or just enjoying the
company of our fellow human beings; all because of a virus with a morbidity
rate of around 0.9% when averaged out across the population as a whole.
Economies too,
are being ruined by the draconian restrictions on way we live our lives, that are
a direct consequence of lockdowns. Adults can understand such measures, and put
up with them, providing they are temporary and there is light at the end of the
tunnel, but it is different for children.
The anguish
of the local fish & chip shop owner’s daughter, about there being nothing to
look forward to, must ring a bell with a great many people at present. Unless
there is a clear and positive way out of this, we are stoking up a severe
crisis in mental health, whilst attempting to avert a not so obvious and
proportionally less serious, physical health crisis.
It’s been a
real roller-coaster of a week, with emotions running high and the mood music
swinging both ways. Tuesday was the day set aside for my father’s funeral a sad
but, as I will describe later, moving and uplifting occasion that allowed us
legally, to escape the confines of Kent and journey up to Norfolk.
With hotel
accommodation uncertain, and opportunities for dining whilst away from home severely
limited, this meant driving there and back in a day. This is something I’ve
always tried to avoid in the past, following the experience of the umpteen
trips I’ve made to Norfolk, this past quarter century.
When my
parents first relocated to Norfolk, it was common for myself, and quite often
the family as well, to stay at their place, but as their health began to
deteriorate, bed & breakfast or a hotel room, became the order of the day.
An overnight stay, or two allowed me to experience a bit more of Norfolk than the
area surrounding Dereham, which is where my parents settled down.
The return
drive is perfectly doable but, it is not a particularly pleasant journey and
being in the saddle for that length of time does take it out of one. Needs must
though, so I booked three days off from work: one either side of the funeral
itself. Due to the pandemic, I haven’t used much of my annual leave, and seeing
as there’s only so much we can carry over into the next financial year, I
thought I might as well use some up.
We were due
at Breckland Crematorium at 1pm, for dad’s funeral, so obviously not wishing to
be late, set off in plenty of time. We left Tonbridge at 8.30am, and whilst the
traffic was steady, there were no holdups. The usual delays prior to the
Dartford Crossing did not materialise, whereas normally there would have been
congestion at that time of the morning.
This was
probably due to a reduction in commuter traffic, but whilst the number of cars
was definitely lower, the same could not be said about the lorries. Commercial
vehicles of varying sizes abounded, including a fair number of foreign
registered trucks, undeterred by the border chaos caused by leaving the Single
Market. How could this act of lunacy have ever been considered a wise move?
Another
thing that was increasingly evident, especially around the M25, was the poor
state of the road surface, with rather too many potholes, including some
potentially suspension wrecking craters. This really isn’t good enough, but
then if government money has been squandered on converting large swathes of
Kent into giant lorry parks, perhaps not surprising.
Despite
these obstacles, we made good time, following the time honoured route of M11
and then A11, through Essex, a small section of Cambridgeshire and Suffolk into
Norfolk. I know this route like the back of my hand, to the extent of every
roundabout, what lane to be in, and the position of the speed cameras.
Breckland
Crematorium is a new addition to the local area and from our point of view,
saved a journey into Norwich and its congested inner ring road. It is in an
attractive rural location, close to the village
Scoulton, to the west of Watton.Rather
surprisingly, it’s a family-owned concern, rather than being run by the local
authority.
We arrived a couple of hours early, so
after parking up broached the picnic that Mrs PBT’s had packed up for us. A
flask of coffee and a few sandwiches later, we took a drive into nearby Watton,
for a quick look. The Hare & Barrel Hotel on the western edge of the town, where
I’d spent a night a few years ago, ceased trading before the pandemic, but
there are still several other hostelries closer to the centre. Watton also
seems well served by Chinese and Indian takeaways, along with a Transylvanian
shop – Romanian, presumably? And good too to see an independent butcher and
several bakers.
We returned to the crematorium to await
the arrival of my younger sister and her own grown-up children. The pandemic
sadly meant my other sister was unable to fly over from the United States,
although she was able to view the service via a live webcast. Other relations,
including the Welsh contingent, were also unable to travel – the latter group
falling foul of the same constraints regarding hotels, as us.
Dad’s age – he was five months’ short of
his 90th birthday, meant that surviving friends and contemporaries
are few and far between, so sadly it was a rather thin turnout present, to say farewell
to him. We’d chosen a celebrant rather than a priest to preside over the
service, as whilst mum was deeply religious, dad was far less so, and went
along with the church side of things just to keep his wife happy.
It was a nice and very moving service,
with the celebrant leading the introductory words of welcome, based on
information about dad that I’d supplied to her, followed by me reading out some
memories of dad and his life, that I’d written. I’d been told beforehand, to
speak up and talk into the microphone. Fortunately, I was permitted to remove
my mask whilst reading out my tribute.
It was difficult,
at times, not to choke up, but I managed to compose myself for most of my talk.
It was the music that really brought out the emotion, especially the
introductory track “Puff, the Magic Dragon,” by Peter, Paul & Mary. This
was a favourite song from childhood, and one which dad liked too, whilst my
sister and I were growing up. There is something powerful about music that can
really stir the emotions, and this track certainly did this with me.
After the
service, we all trooped outside managing to suppress the very powerful human instinct to
hug one another. We agreed to meet up, as a family, for a proper get together,
once this Covid nonsense is over. Dad’s ashes will need to be interned, in the
plot next to mum at the natural cemetery and ceremonial park at Green
Acres, on the outskirts of Norwich, so there will be at least one more trip up
to Norfolk.
We drove home via Watton, Mundford and Brandon, passing the
massive USAF base at Lakenheath, where my American brother-in-law had been
stationed, before re-joining the A11 at Barton Mills. The return journey was
uneventful, with again no hold-ups, although traffic on the approaches to the
QE2 Bridge was predictably heavy.
So, despite
news reports of motorists being stopped for travelling out of their immediate
location, we did not see a single police car, let alone a checkpoint. Our outward
and return crossings of the Thames at Dartford will obviously have been
recorded, but as I have a Dart Charge account, the fees will automatically be
debited from my account.
We had a
lie in on Wednesday morning, before getting ready to go out shopping. Shortly
before midday, I answered a call on the landline. It was our local medical
centre in Tonbridge, offering Eileen and I a Covid vaccination the following
afternoon. We both of course, said yes, even though it meant me taking an
additional half day off from work.
The Baptist
church, at the north end of Tonbridge, has been commandeered as a vaccination
centre. We took a drive down that afternoon to check out things such as parking,
and then on Thursday afternoon, I left work early and collected Mrs PBT’s from
her workplace.
We arrived
at the vaccination centre in good time, parked and joined the queue. It was all
very well organised, with an army of volunteers assisting. After checking in,
we were both interviewed by a doctor, who happened to be from our own practice,
before being shown into the main hall, instructed to roll up our sleeves in
order for a nurse to give us that all important, shot in the arm.
We were
told beforehand that it was the Oxford AstraZeneca vaccine we’d be getting, and
after the injection we were given a card, with the date, time and batch number
of the jab, along with a date and time for the second shot. I must admit to
feeling quite emotional about the whole thing, which really is a splendid
example of the coming together of the scientific, research and healthcare
communities in order to develop, test and roll out this vaccine in record time.
Those
driving were asked to remain seated in the hall for 15 minutes, just to check
for any possible reaction, and then we were free to go. We’ve both experienced
very mild, flu-like symptoms that are similar to those associated with the flu
vaccine. It will take three weeks for this first shot to confer maximum protection
– of around 60%, with the second injection boosting this to around 90%.
Our combined
medical practices in Tonbridge have done a first-class job and seem to be ahead
of neighboring towns such as Tunbridge Wells. Eileen and I only turned 65 last
year, so feel both grateful and privileged to have received the vaccine so rapidly.
We will need to continue complying with current guidelines of mask wearing and
social distancing, until the situation is well and truly under control, but at
least in a few weeks’ time we will feel more confident about mixing with others.
This will be a particularly welcome boost to Mrs PBT’s.
Whilst bemoaning
the total lack of travel opportunities at the moment, I started looking back at
some of the places I have visited over the years – places where beer inevitably
plays a pivotal role. Most of my holidays have been relatively short city
breaks, and there are two places that keep coming up. More than that, these two
cities seem to compete with each other for my affection and hence it is often
difficult to decide between the two.
The two cities are
both relatively close to one another, and both are famed the world over for
being places where large amounts of beer are brewed and enjoyed. You might well
have guessed the names of these two places by now, but in case you haven’t,
they are Munich and Prague.
Since the middle of
the 2000’s, when I was free to travel again, following the sale of our
off-license business, I have made six visits to both cities, although Prague
comes out on top due to a much earlier visit, back in 1984. My son Matthew has
accompanied me on most of these trips and, like me, he seems equally torn
between the Bavarian and the Bohemian, but for this article it is Munich I want
to concentrate on.
Our last
visit to the city was a fleeting one, in May 2018. We’d spent a few days in
Bamberg, with some friends from Maidstone CAMRA and because we’d flown in and
out via Munich’s large international airport, we managed a short stop off in
the city on our way home. We also took a short break there, the previous
February.
This was primarily
to meet up with Matthew’s best friend; my role primarily being to keep an eye
on the two, whilst acting as a sort of tour guide. Mid-winter isn’t the best time
for visiting any city in northern Europe. The bright lights and the crowds of
the Christmas markets will have long vanished, and spring still seems a long
way off, but I still enjoyed the break.
It got me thinking
that it is a long time since we enjoyed a proper summer holiday in the Bavarian
capital and when I checked it turned out our last high season break in Munich
was in 2014. We were unlucky with the weather that year, leaving sub-tropical
temperatures behind as we left England, to experience a 10 degree fall in
temperature and leaden skies, on our first full day in the city. A sudden
change in direction in the jet-stream, bringing the remains of tropical storm “Bertha”
was responsible for the wettest and chilliest holiday we’ve had in Munich, but we
still managed to track down plenty of decent beer.
The latter brew in the
village of Aying, a 35-minute train journey on the S-Bahn to the south
of Munich. The company like to promote themselves as “Munich’s favourite
country brewery,” and it is well worth making the trip out to Aying in
order to sample their beers.
A short walk from
the station leads to the village centre, where you will find the brewery inn
and guest house complex, known as Liebhards.Ayinger Bräu’s large, modern-looking
brewery is on the western edge of the village. It brews a wide and diverse
range of different beers and also offers tours, although I have still to go on
one.
Previously our
visits to Liebhards, had been in the early evening, but in 2014 we made
the trip at lunchtime instead. It was our first full day in Munich and the
grey-leaden skies were pouring with rain like it was never going to stop. We
got soaked just walking up from the station, but once inside the rustically
furnished, but surprisingly large inn, and with a half-litre mug or two of Ayinger Bräu’s
excellent, unfiltered Kellerbier in front of us, all thoughts of the
inclement weather outside vanished.
We arrived at
around 12.30pm and the pub was quite quiet, but not long. After we has sat down
and ordered our drinks, several parties of mainly elderly people came in. Like
us, they seemed glad to escape from the rain, and like us they ordered some
food to go with their beer. Actually, we only ordered some soup, as we were
planning on eating something more substantial in the evening, but the chicken
noodle soup and the dense, dark local Landbrot that went with it, were
exactly right for lunchtime.
If you don’t want
to make the trip right out to Aying village, the company’s beers can be found in
several outlets in Munich itself; including Ayinger am Platzl, opposite
the Hofbräuhaus, right in the city centre. The latter is run by a member of the
Inselkammer family, who also own and run the brewery, but for thirsty
travellers, who have just arrived in the city, there’s another Ayinger run
establishment, directly opposite the Hauptbahnhof (railway station).
On the northern
side of Arnulf Straße, directly opposite the halt where the Lufthansa
bus drops off passengers from the airport, you will find Wirtshaus
Rechthaler hof. Its yellow painted walls and distinctive Ayinger
Bräu signs, are easy to spot, and on the last afternoon of our February
2017 visit, we decided to pop in for a couple of final beers, before taking the
bus to the airport. We were glad that we did, as the place was spotlessly clean
and welcoming, with an interior decorated in a traditional Bavarian-style, with
wooden barrel ends mounted on the wall, animal trophies and historical
pictures.
Winter Bock 6.7%
is a strong, dark,
Bock style beer, full of rich, but soft roast malt flavours, balanced by the
spicy, earthy pepperiness derived from a generous hopping. Rich in flavours
whilst soft on the palate, this is the perfect winter beer to enjoy on a cold
late January night.
Celebrator 6.7%.
This is a strong, Doppelbock
beer, brewed specially for the winter season. I haven’t opened this one yet,
although I might at the weekend, for reasons that might become apparent toward
the end of this piece.
This talk, and
sampling of Ayiner Bräu beers has increased my yearning for a return to
Munich and that train ride back out to the village of Aying. Foreign travel may
well still be several months away; it might not even be possible until the
autumn, at the earliest. But when it does come, I shall make that journey to Aying,
walk up to Liebhards and drink deeply of whichever beers they have on
tap. I might even call in at Wirtshaus
Rechthaler hofas soon as I arrive in the city.
One thing that
really does fill me optimism at the moment, is the phone call I received
earlier today, asking Mrs PBT’s and I to attend the local vaccination centre,
for our first shots of the Covid-19 vaccine. The local medical centre has even given us
the date for our second jabs.
A small step I
know, but a significant one along the rocky road to an eventual return to some
form of normality. That eventual outcome can’t come soon enough, and I’m sure
we are all in agreement on that!
Footnote: The Lufthansa transit service, to and from
Munich airport, is a bus in the American sense of the word. Effectively it is
what we Brits would call a “coach.” If you want comfort, style and a reasonable
transit time, it really is the best way to travel into central Munich. It
certainly beats struggling onto the S-Bahn with your baggage, and then sitting
there as the train stops at every station en route – that’s if you can even get
a seat!