The
old-fashioned Jug & Bottle facilities, that were a feature of many late
Victorian and Edwardian pubs, were just that. A separate section where customers
could turn up to buy either draught ale – to take away in their own container
(usually a jug), or if they has slightly more money to spend, bottled beer –
rather like a modern day off-license.
Bottled
beer was in its infancy back then and sold at prices considerably in excess of
its draught counterpart, but if you were well-heeled, and fancied a beer with a
little more sparkle, and one that kept well, this form of beer was definitely
the one for you.
For the
purpose of this article, I want to stick with draught beer, and cask ale in
particular, as referenced at the start of the post. So, returning to the
ubiquitous jug for a moment, let’s dismiss this container as a sensible option,
unless the beer is going to be drunk immediately. The open nature of the jug,
with its wide mouth and lack of closure, means any beer kept within it will
rapidly lose condition, and end up flat, dull and lifeless, so we need to
search for something more suitable.
Two-pint
flagons, with an internal screw top, were a common sight; even as late as the
1970’s when I first started drinking. Whitbread Pale Ale was often sold in
flagons, as was the same brewery’s Forest Brown Ale. Beers from other brewers
were also available, but the two Whitbread examples are the ones that stick in
my memory.
Once the contents of these receptacles had been drunk, the empty flagons could be washed out and used to collect draught beer, from the pub, for consumption in the home, but alas no more. I can’t remember the last time I saw one of these flagons, which is a shame, as with their narrow, screw-top necks, made them ideal for takeaway draught beer.
This feature is superfluous, as far as I am concerned, as the last thing needed is a closure that allows the beer to go flat and seeing as they are used almost exclusively for beer that is drawn off “bright” from the cask, very little secondary fermentation takes place and virtually no additional CO2 generated.
And yet, Carry Kegs have been in use for over 40 years, so surely the manufacturers must be doing something right? Brewers, such as Harvey’s make full use of these containers, and back in the day when I worked in Lewes, I was a regular visitor to the Harvey’s Shop for my twice-weekly takeaway order of Best Bitter, or whatever seasonal beer was on sale at the time.
A few year later, when my wife and I ran the "Cask & Glass" in Tonbridge – a specialist “real ale off-license,” we also offered cask beer for takeaway, dispensed into these reusable Carry Kegs. They were obviously popular, and as trade built up, we were getting through four firkins (9-gallon casks) a week. All the time though, I couldn’t help thinking that these containers weren’t ideal for cask ale, unless it was to be drunk more or less immediately.Much of the
beer was for immediate consumption but given what I saw as the limitations of the
Carry Keg I trialed the use of plastic milk containers, available in either 2-
or 4-pint sizes. These were better, as there was no superfluous vent cap, but
being made out of polythene, there was still a tendency for the gas to escape –
leading to beer that was sometimes flat or lacking in life.
For once, the Americans seem to have the answer with their ubiquitous “Growlers.” Originally made out of glass, but now also available in much robust stainless-steel form, growlers are generally gas-tight, meaning beer can be stored for much longer periods without going flat. They are sealed with either a screw-on cap or a hinged porcelain, gasket cap, which maintains freshness for a week or more. They are available in sizes of 64 US fl oz (just under 3.5 gallons), 32 US fl oz (1 US Quart) or, for those who are really thirsty, 128 US fl oz (1 US Gallon).
Despite all
these positive attributes, for some reason Growlers have never really caught on
the UK, with most breweries and pubs that offer takeaway cask, sticking to the
aforementioned and, in my view, far inferior Carry Kegs. It might just boil
down to cost, but you get what you pay for, and a splashing out on a robust and
gas-tight, stainless steel Growler, to me, makes perfect sense.
They are
available in a few places, including Fuggles who operate a couple of popular
and successful beer cafés, in both Tonbridge and Tunbridge Wells.
Alternatively, you can order direct from Craft Beer Growlers. If this wretched
lockdown continues for much longer, a decent growler would definitely be a wise
investment.
Instead of buying ready-dispensed cask ale, you could instead, always go for your own bulk container, so you can draw off your one beer, as and when you feel the demand. Four and a half gallon (36 pints) polypins are known to many beer enthusiasts, and providing you purchase one containing “live” beer, the contents should last for a few weeks. If you don’t want to be stuck with such a large amount of the same beer, then why not opt for a mini pin, which holds around 18 pints.
The
ultimate containers for draught beer, including brewery-conditioned (i.e.,
non-real) beer, is the humble 5 litre mini keg. I have had several of these
over the years, and the beer always keeps well in them. They have an integral,
pull-out tap close to the base, plus a “release valve” at the top. The valve
needs to be opened in order to dispense the beer, but then closed in order to
maintain its condition.
The keg survived the journey home, and over Christmas that year, I was able to enjoy brewery fresh Schlenkerla Rauchbier. Last Christmas I treated myself to a mini keg of Larkin’s Porter, from the brewery of the same name, just up the road from my workplace, and I might well do the same this year.
I did this with
the couple of pints of Porter left from my recent Larkin’s mini cask. I will
crack one open over Christmas and see what the beer is like. In the end making
sure that the cask ale you are drinking at home, is every bit as good as what you’d
expect in a pub, takes a blend of common sense and a little ingenuity. If you’ve
got these qualities right, then the proof of your actions should show itself in
the beer you are drinking. Cheers, Prost, à votre santé, Na zdravi,
etc.