The Sunday before last was the perfect day for a walk out in
the early spring Kent
countryside. A group of us had been planning a hike for some time, and after
agreeing a mutually acceptable date, we decided to attempt a quite ambitious
itinerary with a walk which would take in three quite isolated country pubs,
situated on high ground to the south and west of Penshurst.
After several weeks of dry weather, the going underfoot was
guaranteed to be firm; ideal for walking in fact but, as is often the case at this
time of year, there was a cold wind blowing. Undeterred three of us set off
from Tonbridge, by train, travelling just the one stop to Leigh station, where we
met up with the fourth member of our party who lives in the village.
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Penshurst Place - rear view |
Once out of the station, we walked along a thankfully short
section of a rather narrow road, before, before turning off towards the back of
the Penshurst Place estate.
After a steady climb, we were rewarded by views across the Medway
Valley, with the 14th Century pile
that is Penshurst Place
below us. This was the first time I have walked round the back of the house, as
normally I would follow the cycle path which runs the other side of the big
house, so I stopped a couple of times to take some photos.
|
Old mill-pond |
After exiting via the churchyard, we found ourselves in Penshurst
village virtually opposite the imposing Leicester Arms pub. We continued through
this picturesque village, before taking a lane leading off to the right. This
was the beginning of our climb out of the Medway
Valley, and I have to say it was a
pleasing walk through some very fine looking countryside. We made a slight
detour to take a look at an old watermill, sited next to a stream which had
been dammed, allowing the water to flow down a narrow channel in order to power
a long vanished water-wheel. The former mill and the surrounding oast houses
have all now been turned into some very desirable residences for those who can
afford such places. In fact posh-looking rustic properties proved to be regular
features throughout the duration of our walk.
|
Interior - Bottle House |
Eventually we reached
Smart’s Hill; an isolated and quite
spread-out hamlet where we found ourselves at the
Bottle House, which is the
higher of the settlement’s two pubs. The
Bottle House looks like it was once a
row of cottages and this is indeed the case. The cottages date back to the late
16th
Century, but were knocked through to form the present pub, quite a few years
ago. Nowadays the
Bottle House is very much a food-oriented establishment, but
much to our delight it still caters for walkers.
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Bottle House - Smart's Hill |
We were met at the pub, by our friends Jon and Claire, who had driven
over from Hadlow to meet up with us and to enjoy a meal there. Fortunately they
had managed to grab a table, as not long after our arrival, the pub really
began filling up, both with families out for a spot of Sunday lunch, and with
groups of walkers like us. The latter had to make do with sitting outside, but
we were nice and cosy and out of the wind, indoors.
|
Spotted Dog - Smart's Hill |
The Bottle House had two cask beers on;
Larkin’s Traditional
and
Westerham Spirit of Kent.
Unfortunately the latter beer was not up to scratch so the two of us who had
ordered it swapped it for
Larkin’s Trad. We decided to just have the one beer
there, before walking down the hill to the
Spotted Dog; Smart’s Hill’s other
pub. It was here that Claire departed; leaving husband Jon to don his walking
boots and accompany us on the rest of the walk.
The
Spotted Dog is a lovely old pub which I have
written about several times before. It clings to the side of the hill over-looking the Medway Valley, in one of the most picturesque setting imaginable. It has been a pub for many years and has had its share of ups and downs. It is definitely on the up at present, and like on my
previous visit, back in January was crowded with diners enjoying their
Sunday lunch.
We knew we would have to sit outside, and for that reason
decided we would only stay for the one pint, but the sight and, as it
subsequently proved, the quality of the Harvey’s
XXXX Old Ale, was sufficient to persuade us other wise. It is unusual to see
this excellent dark ale on sale so late in the season, and as it is a favourite
beer of many of us, we needed little persuading to stay for a second pint.
The terrace at the front of the pub where we deposited
ourselves was fortunately sheltered form the wind, and as if to add to our
sense of well-being the sun even broke through on a couple of occasions. We all
thoroughly enjoyed the Old Ale, and although one member of our party wanted to
stay for a third, we persuaded him otherwise, as the rest of us were keen to
visit the Rock; the third pub on our itinerary, and one which has recently
changed hands.
We re-traced our steps back up towards the
Bottle House,
turning into the lane which runs in front of the pub. We then skirted a very
expensive looking property, complete with a swimming pool in the garden. At
this stage we were right on top of a ridge, at probably one of the highest
points of our journey. It therefore seemed a shame as the path began to
descend, taking us across the road we had walked up earlier and down into a
valley, flanked on one side by woodland.
|
Spring flowers |
From then on it was a question of up hill and down dale, as
we headed roughly northwards towards the hamlet of Chiddingstone Hoath and the
Rock Inn. I must say that this leg of the journey took quite a lot longer than
I had originally anticipated, but the attractive countryside, and the equally
attractive properties we passed en route, made this extra walking all the more
worthwhile.
It’s at least a couple of years since I last set foot inside
the Rock; a real basic country pub, which started life as a drovers’ inn. My
companions and I were aware that it had changed owners at the beginning of
January, but as we knew that the new incumbents had previously run the highly
successful Huntsman at Eridge, we knew the Rock would be in capable hands.
|
Rock - Chiddingstone Hoath |
We didn’t really get the chance to find out, as when we
found the pub absolutely rammed when we arrived. We soon discovered that a
local resident had died recently, and the pub was holding a wake in his honour.
We managed to squeeze our way through to the bar, avoiding stepping over the
large number of dogs hanging around their owners feet.
To our delight, there were three Larkin’s beers available;
Traditional, Pale and, rather surprisingly in view of the season, the brewery’s
Green Hop Ale. Unfortunately the latter ran out shortly before I was served,
although I am pleased to report that the Pale was excellent. Pale is a
relatively new comer to the Larkin’s portfolio, and at 4.0% it is both stronger
than the more common Traditional, and also more strongly hopped.
|
Welcome sign at the Rock |
Given the crowded nature of the pub, we decided to take our
drinks outside, despite the combined effect of the drop in temperature and the
increase in the wind. It was here that we noticed the first of several
alterations that the new owners had made, as some rustic, bench-style seating
has been installed at the front of the pub, adjacent to the entrance. We also
had a look around the back of the pub, where the formerly little-used garden is
in the process of being transformed into an attractive and sheltered outdoor
drinking area. A new patio has already been laid, and the centre area has been
levelled off ready for new turf to be laid. I understand that improvements are
being made to the kitchen as well.
We got chatting to a few of the locals, including Guy who
works for Larkin’s, handling both their sales and office work. The consensus
seems to be that the new owners have been a hit with the Rock’s regulars, and
that apart from the aforementioned improvements, there a re no plans to alter
the essential character of the pub in any way.
This is good news, as the Rock’s bare brick floor, its large
wood-burning stove and the unusual “Ringing the Bull” game, are part and parcel
of what gives this pub its unique character. The locals, of course, along with
their dogs, also contribute much as well, and they are a real mix of proper
country folk along with perhaps some of the more moneyed folk who live locally,
but enjoy letting their hair down.
Much as though we would have liked to stay for another pint
(the Pale was exceptionally good), the trains back to Tonbridge only run
hourly. The fact that it would take at least 40 minutes to walk back to the
nearest station, at Chiddingstone Causeway, meant that some careful planning
was required and decisions to be made.
We took the sensible option which was to drink up and head
for the station, as to have waited for the next train would mean walking back
in the dark; not a good idea when the final section of the journey would be
across country. Fortunately the route was nearly all down hill and fortunate
too that I work at Chiddingstone Causeway and know the surrounding countryside
quite well, due to my regular lunchtime walks. Even so we only had five minutes
to spare before the train arrived.
Back in Tonbridge I still had an uphill walk of just under a
mile, from the station to my house. I had been tracking our walk by means of an
App on my phone, and this combined with the walk down to the station and back,
added up to a 10 mile
hike. I was certainly glad to take my boots off when I arrived home, and was
also glad of the rather tasty paella my wife had cooked for our tea.
So quite an ambitious walk through some exceptional countryside,
and three excellent rural pubs visited. The two pubs at Smart’s Hill are
obvious food destination pubs, so it was hardly surprising to find them both
busy. Sunday lunchtime might not have been the ideal time for four casual
drinkers to visit, but the day fitted in well with what other commitments we
all might have had. The Rock is a law unto itself, as whilst it does serve food
it really is a place to enjoy some excellent, locally-brewed beers in the
company of some characterful locals. Ideally I would like to do the walk again,
but during the middle of the week, when things are likely to be quieter, and
there would be a better chance of experiencing the true character of these
three rural gems.