Beer selection at Sweetman's |
It took me significantly longer to find my hotel. They were
digging Parnell Street up, to make way for a new tram system I believe, and
because of the fenced off sections of roadway I didn’t spot the name Gate Hotel
on the facia of the black-painted pub which I walked past several times! A
phone call to reception soon put me on track, but I had lost precious time.
There was an introductory crawl of some of the city’s best craft beer pubs
setting off from the conference centre at 6.45pm, but by the time I’d checked
in, dumped my bag and freshened up there was no way I was going to make that
deadline.
A further delay to find a cash-point and withdraw some Euros
and it was way past 7pm when I
arrived at The Church, the superbly resorted 18th Century former
church which was the venue for the European Beer Bloggers Conference.
As I feared the pub-crawl participants had already departed,
but fortunately I had printed off a copy of the itinerary. The Church’s friendly and helpful
manager pointed me in the direction of The Brew Dock; the first pub on the
list, but said it was quite a walk. I decided to head the group off at the
pass, so to speak, by making for the second pub on the crawl which, as the
manager explained, was closer to the city centre and the rest of the pubs on
the route.
I therefore made my way to Sweetman’s, a famous
and historic, multi-floored pub, just across the River Liffey and waited there for
the rest of the group. They must have been having a good time at Brew Dock as it
seemed an age before they turned up. In the meantime I sampled a couple of
Sweetman’s five house-brewed beers, produced in a micro-plant recently
installed at the front of the pub. The pub brews a Pale and a Red Ale, a
Porter, a Kölsch plus a Weiss Bier. I enjoyed the well-hopped pale, plus the
smooth, chocolate-tasting porter.
I asked the barman whether the pub was expecting a group in
later, which would be led by Reuben Gray; the Dublin-based blogger who writes
The Tale of The Ale blog. Reuben was also the person responsible for securing The Church as
the conference venue, thereby bringing the event to Dublin.
The barman replied that they were expecting the group in soon and he would let
me know when they arrived.
As it happened the barman didn’t need to point the group out,
as a party of beer enthusiasts look virtually the same the world over. What’s
more I recognised one of their number in Pencil & Spoon blogger, Mark
Dredge. After introductions were effected, we moved up two flights of stairs to
the bar on the second floor, where some “finger food” had been laid on for us.
Sweetman’s was my first introduction to Dublin
pubs and Irish Craft Beer, and I liked what I saw, but as there were several
more pubs to get round, it was soon time to move on. Next on the list was the
Norseman, situated in Dublin’s
legendary party area of Temple Bar. The Norseman has recently reverted to its
original name, following a spell of being called Farrington’s, and is one of a growing number of Dublin’pubs offering a wide range of beer. Like most of these new breed of beerhouses, the choice is mainly craft keg, but none the worse for that. The notes I
took at the time indicate I sampled the IPA and the Stout from O’Hara’s, plus
the Hornet 8’s Nest, an extremely well-hopped “White IPA”, brewed as
collaboration between Eight Degrees Brewing and By the Horns. Many of the group
decamped to an upstairs area, so I joined them and as the atmosphere was
slightly less hectic, and certainly more relaxed than at Sweetman’s. I was
introduced to several more Bloggers, including Steve Lamond, writer of the
Beers I've Known blog, Bryan Betts, who blogs under the name of the Beer Viking, and the already mentioned tour leader, Reuben Gray.
The Norseman in the city. After
yet more “finger food” we set off through the by now pouring rain, passing the
original Porterhouse en route due to time constraints, (I visited it a couple
of days later), and ended up in the Bull & Castle. Again it was upstairs here,
something which seems a real feature of Dublin pubs and bars, but something
which would probably cause Fire Safety Officers back home to have fits of
apoplexy! The bar we were in is known as the Butcher's Bar and, as its name suggests specialises in steaks and various other meats.
My sampling was slightly more restrained at the Bull &
Castle, as I was mindful of not wanting to wake with a sore head the following
morning. The Windjammer, a 4.8% Amber Ale from Metalman Brewery was rather nice
though.
Final port of call - the Black Sheep |
The latter was bought for me, plus those remaining on the
crawl, by Niall Walsh, one of the two partners behind Galway
Bay. We stayed quite late at the
Black Sheep, chatting to Niall and others still present, then I vaguely remember walking back to the hotel in the
company of Bryan, who was also
staying at the Gate. At least the rain had eased off, but my shoes were soaked
through, so much so that I had to try drying them with the hairdryer the following
morning.
It had been a good night out, and an excellent introduction to Dublin, so special thanks to Reuben for putting the tour together, and to the management of the various pubs and bars for their hospitality.
It had been a good night out, and an excellent introduction to Dublin, so special thanks to Reuben for putting the tour together, and to the management of the various pubs and bars for their hospitality.