A few reflections looking back with fondness, at Cologne

A couple of posts ago I mentioned my plan to reflect on some of the more notable establishments in Cologne where one can enjoy quality food, free-flowing beer, engaging conversation and a relaxing atmosphere. That was the plan, but the more I’ve looked into it, the more taxing the task has become. Over the course of eight separate visits to Cologne, I've got to know many of the city’s best drinking houses. I did a count up and can list 12 classic beer houses selling Kölsch in the city, plus a number of “also runs”, and that’s without really trying. It's a start though, especially as I’ve had personal experience of all these establishments, but before describing some of them it’s worth reminding ourselves of what Cologne’s unique beer style is all about.

Kölsch is a survivor from the pre-lager brewing tradition of Northern Germany, but over the years has undergone a good deal of change. The most notable of these is the lightening of its colour to pale yellow, giving it the appearance of a Pilsner. It is perhaps not surprising then to learn that it is brewed mainly from Pilsner malt. Kölsch is top fermented at a temperature of between 13 to 21°C, which is more typical of ale brewing, but after the initial fermentation, it undergoes a period of conditioning, where it is lagered at a much colder temperature.

The end result is a clear beer with a bright, straw-yellow hue, but considering its background, there is little ale character to be found, apart from a little fruitiness. Kölsch tends to have a soft, and well-rounded character and can sometimes be on the sweet side.

Kölsch has to be brewed in the Cologne area before it can call itself such, and this qualification is stipulated by the “Kölsch Convention”, which dates back to the 1980’s. The convention was drawn up 24 breweries, some of which are no longer brewing, in order to protect the style from outside imitations. Additionally, a beer may only be called a Kölsch if it meets the following criteria:

It is brewed in the Cologne metropolitan area:

It is pale in colour
It is top-fermented
It is hop-accented
It is filtered
It is a ‘Vollbier’

Kölsch is usually served in small, plain cylindrical glasses known as Stangen, which typically hold just 20 cl of beer, although some outlets will use 25 cl versions. The reason for the small glasses is Kölsch is a beer designed to be drunk fresh. Leaving a newly poured glass standing for any length of time allows the beer’s condition to dissipate and is not conducive to enjoying it at its best. This ensures that customers have a fresh glass of beer for as long as they wish to continue drinking,

Kölsch waiters, who appear to always be male, carry round a circular tray known as a Kranz. This has inserts designed to accommodate up to a dozen glasses, and they will automatically offer customers a fresh glass of Kölsch, making a pencil mark on a beer mat, for each glass taken. The waiters are known as “Köbes” (a word derived from “Jakobus”) and wear distinctive blue aprons. They have a reputation for being a bit gruff, but this might be unfounded, as most of the ones I have come across have been helpful and often friendly as well.

Since the formation of the “Kölsch Convention”, there has been the inevitable mergers and closures, so typical of the brewing industry the world over. This has led to many Kölsch “brands” now being brewed at one large brewery, known as the Kölner Verbund Brauereien GmbH & Co. This is housed in what was formerly the Küppers Brewery.

So, what about the pubs and bars? Personally, I prefer some of the less well-known establishments away from the well-worn tourist trail. But if you’re a stranger to the city, it’s probably advisable to start with some of the more popular establishments and tourist spots, as they offer a good introduction to drinking in Cologne.

One of the most famous Kӧlsch houses in Cologne, as well as one of the largest, is Früh am Dom. "Dom" is the German word for cathedral, and Früh is very close to the magnificent gothic cathedral that dominates the centre of Cologne. 

 I have made several visits to Früh am Dom, and on each occasion this Cologne institution, with its maze of inter-connected rooms, spread out across several different levels, seems to have grown in size. On my last visit to IDS, our group called in at Früh and found the place absolutely heaving. Fortunately, one of the waiters managed to squeeze us in, and looked after our table of six, along with several others. He kept us supplied with numerous glasses of Kölsch that evening and took care of our food orders as well.

Gaffel am Dom, is another large, and cavernous establishment which is on the other side of the cathedral, and just around the corner from the main station (Hauptbahnhof).  It is a beer-hall I know well from numerous visits trips to Cologne, and the Gaffel Kölsch sold is a soft, hoppy, and easy-drinking beer which slips down rather easily. It is also one of the most widely available brands of Kölsch, in Cologne.

Probably my favourite beer house in the city centre is Peter’s Brauhaus, and another establishment that I’ve visited several times. One of the most memorable of these occasions was in 2017, when we called in on what was our second night in the city. Peter’s is a very traditional looking establishment, and the Peters Kӧlsch we enjoyed there was amongst the best we came across during our stay. Even better it was served direct from small metal casks, perched up on a stand behind the bar. Being dispensed by gravity, without the use of extraneous CO2, the beer was smooth tasty and far less gassy compared to what is often the case in Cologne.

Bierhaus en d'r Salzgass, is another classic old town pub, sited on a narrow cobbled street which leads from Heumarkt to Buttermarkt, in an area teeming with pubs, bars and restaurants. I was recommended to try this outlet, by Manchester-based blogger Matt whose informed and well-written site, “When My Feet go Through the Door”, is well worth clicking onto. Matt assured me that, as well as serving Päffgen Kölsch, the pub’s menu was also of a high standard. Two years after that visit to Peter’s, we tried our luck with Bierhaus en d'r Salzgass, after being turned away from a number of other outlets that evening.

As the German speaker of the group, I was left to ask if the pub could accommodate our party of five. The place seemed packed, but the waiter, perhaps warming to being addressed in his native tongue, managed to find us a table squeezed in towards the back of the pub. He also confirmed that we could also pay by card, provided we paid as a group. It was a good move befriending that particular Köbes, as he looked after us well, ensuring we never had an empty glass in front of us, and that our food arrived promptly. I made sure to give him a generous tip when it came to paying the bill.

The Kölsch, which was dispensed straight from the cask was every bit as good as I remembered it, and the food was equally good. Eschewing the rather obvious roast pork knuckle, I opted instead for an old favourite from visits to Munich, in the form of Leberkässe mit Spiegelei & Bratkartoffeln. We spent a couple of hours in this real old-school, traditional pub, soaking up the atmosphere and the beer in equal quantities. I had to accompany the Köbes to the bar, in order to pay, and it was here that I saw the kegs of Päffgen, set out on the counter in a very similar manner to those at Peters Brauhaus.

Päffgen Kӧlsch is worthy of an article of its own, which I will post another time, but not being able to make that third, and probably final visit to this legendary brewpub, remains my sole regret of turning down this year’s visit to IDS. Of course, there’s no guarantee that I would have been able to call in at Päffgen, having been thwarted by circumstances during the last three trips to Cologne, but I regard it as a “special place” and somewhere I’d like to experience one last time. We shall see!

The Mount Edgecombe, Tunbridge Wells

On Thursday evening, the family and I attended a 50th birthday party. The birthday celebrant was the eldest of Eileen’s two nieces, resulting in a large extended family gathering that night. The venue for this event was the Mount Edgecumbe, a hotel and restaurant situated in the middle of Tunbridge Wells Common, but just a few minutes’ walk from the town centre. It occupies a large and attractive Georgian house, set in its own grounds, and reached by a narrow track leading down from Mount Ephraim, at the top of the common. 

Whilst familiar with Mount Edgecumbe, I have only visited the place on a handful of occasions, the most recent one being, in 2016. When I worked at nearby High Brooms, colleagues and I occasionally called in for a quick lunchtime snack and a pint, but that's a couple of decades in the past, now. Although I can find no record of this, but I’m fairly certain that the place used to be a French restaurant, called La Galoche. "Galoche” of course, is the French term meaning an “overshoe, protecting against rain, mud". It equates to the English word, "Wellingtons," - sometimes known as "galoshes,” and the name likely arose due to the proximity of Mount Edgecumbe’s prestigious neighbour, the Wellington Hotel. This impressive late 19th-century building is situated on the crest of the ridge overlooking the common, and has now become a Travelodge, offering an affordable option for those seeking accommodation in Tunbridge Wells.

The Mount Edgecombe has been in the same family ownership since 2012, and as well as offering food and drink boasts six luxury boutique bedrooms. Being just a few minutes’ walk from the town centre, the Edgecombe’s bar and restaurant is popular with diners, and there is also a bar area, a cave, plus a garden with views across the common and town. For those who prefer to drink, the place still functions as a pub and on Thursday there was a good selection that included Harvey’s Best, a beer from Pig & Porter, plus the strangely named Pilcrow Pale from Dorking Brewery. Unfortunately, I had to send my pint back because it was way too hazy – I did check on Untappd first, but there was no mention of murk, such as NEIPA. The replacement came back just as bad – don’t the bar staff look at these things when they’re pulling a pint? The Harvey’s was fine, so perhaps it serves me right for being adventurous!

Or perhaps not, as Eileen’s other niece had an equally hazy pint of Pig & Porter, and this acted as the harbinger of things to come. We followed the instructions to make our menu selections prior to the event, and the coordinator had organized the food orders accordingly. Despite this, there was a considerable delay between the starters being served and the arrival of the main courses. Seeing as just a handful of people had ordered starters, the wait for the main course was unnecessarily lengthy. The mains arrived lukewarm, rather than piping hot and my choice of “Garden pea and Parmesan risotto, with Parmesan shavings & pea shoots”, was definitely missing the Parmesan! Mrs PBT’s had chosen the same dish, and her comments echoed mine, as did those of the family member sitting next to me.

All of this was surprising, as the majority of Trip Advisor reviews are full of praise for the operation. Perhaps we caught it on a bad day, or possibly the fact our party was tucked away in a separate, first floor room, didn’t help when it came to serving the food. The room itself was nice and cosy, but wasn’t easy to access via a narrow, wooden staircase. I’m not sure whether there was a “dumb waiter” arrangement for bringing the food up from below, but if there wasn’t, the poor waiting staff must have had their work cut out. Despite these issues, the staff who served us, were polite, pleasant, and helpful.

We won’t be rushing back there though – certainly not to eat, but if you just fancy a drink and the weather is clement, why not take a walk up across Tunbridge Wells Common to the Mount Edgecumbe.  You will need a good map I’m afraid, as it’s difficult to give good written directions, especially if you are heading up from the High Street, or the station. Furthermore, do not attempt to try and find this pub-cum-restaurant at dusk, as a friend and I did 10 or so years ago, as you will inevitably get lost amongst the maze of foot ways and paths which criss-cross the common. You also run the risk of stumbling, or worse still. falling off one of the rocky outcrops that pop up when you least expect them.

Cologne sadly, is off the agenda

 

At the beginning of next week, approximately six of my work colleagues will travel across to the Rhineland city of Cologne, in order to participate in the 2025 International Dental Show (IDS). The IDS, which occurs biennially, is generally regarded as the world's largest dental show. Although this status might now be challenged by other similar dental exhibitions held in the emerging markets of the Middle and the Far East. (Dubai & Singapore). 

My company has maintained a presence at the IDS since before I became an employee in 2006, and although the event requires considerable time, money and effort, the rewards associated with it are well worth it. Chief amongst the rewards, my employer has become the largest manufacturer of dental materials in the United Kingdom. 

The dental show also provides opportunities to acquire new customers and distributors for our products, as well as to discover innovative ideas in the field of dentistry. Additionally, it offers a chance to connect with customers from around the globe, with in-person interactions being considered effective. The COVID-19 pandemic and associated lock-downs have demonstrated that digital platforms, such as Zoom, are no substitute face-to-face interactions. Sometimes these meetings extend into evening gatherings. A meal or a few beers with a prospective customer or an existing client can be highly beneficial, although it is difficult to quantify the value of such interactions. Despite the assertions made by proponents of virtual meetings, face-to-face interactions remain unparalleled.

Over the past 15 years, I have written numerous posts about these biennial visits to IDS, and with eight visits to Cologne, six of which were for business purposes, under my belt, I have developed a considerable affection for this Rhineland city. I have also become quite proficient in navigating my way around Cologne and can readily identify some of the finest for both eating and drinking. When I first joined the company, the travel plan for IDS involved driving across to Cologne in a hired mini bus, loaded with promotional materials. Our route from Kent took us through the Channel Tunnel, across Northern France and Belgium, and then into the Germany. 

In 2017, the company switched to rail travel, and by sending samples and product literature ahead of time, it became possible to take a 30-minute drive from the factory to Ebbsfleet, board a Brussels-bound Eurostar service. At Brussels, we would then take a Deutsche Bahn ICE train or a Thalys service to Cologne. After the pandemic the journey became longer, and more complicated than previously, because Eurostar has refused to reopen the two international, Kentish stations at Ebbsfleet and Ashford. Protests from Kent based businesses, trade bodies and residents continue to fall on deaf ears – time perhaps to strip Eurostar of its franchise, and let a different operator have a go?

Since I first went to Cologne, the company has used the same hotel, the Appartel am Dom, a friendly family run establishment close to the Haupt Bahnhof, and within 25 minutes walking distance of Köln Messe, the vast agglomeration of exhibition halls on the other side of the river Rhine. Getting to it on foot involves a walk across the Hohenzollern Bridge, a similar structure to the Hungerford Bridge which runs across the River Thames to Charing Cross station from the South Bank. 

In recent years, as I have grown older and my walking pace has slowed, I have opted to take the S-Bahn train across the Rhine from Haupt Bahnhof to Köln Messe – Deutz, on the opposite side of the river. This journey is straightforward and simple, and it is also free, as one's dental show exhibition pass is valid on these trains. The service is particularly useful when time is limited or during bad weather. Some colleagues have found out the hard way, just how exposed that crossing is when it rains. Arriving at the exhibition soaked isn't the best start to a long day, and looking like a drowned rat doesn't create a good impression either! 

Back in 2023, I wrote an article titled "Cologne for the Final Time?" which indeed turned out to be my last visit. Prior to Christmas, I was asked by our General Manager if I wanted to attend the  upcoming 2025 event, but I declined, albeit with mixed emotions. Although the company offered the option of attending for limited hours, I realised this wouldn't be feasible. One of the primary responsibilities of staff members at such events is to ensure that someone is always present at the stand. This is crucial because  key members of our team, such as the Sales Manager and General Manager, are often either away, visiting other companies, meeting prospective clients, or hosting meetings at our stand. While I possess a fair amount of product knowledge, I am not equipped to provide information on pricing, distribution deals, etc.

There would then be a return journey across the river Rhine, or in my case, a train trip, back to the hotel. An opportunity to freshen up and change into something casual would follow before heading back into the city centre for a meal at a prearranged restaurant or bar. Consequently, there is very little personal free time. However, during my last visit, I managed to check off a couple of Kölsch outlets from my list. This was an exception rather than the norm. 

Given these circumstances, I decided it would be best not to attend, as I would likely find myself standing at the booth until the exhibition closed at 6 pm. Looking back, I see that I posted following IDS 2023, that having crossed those final two Cologne “essentials” off from my list, there is no compelling reason for a further visit to the city. I closed the article with the words, "I may feel different in a couple of years’ time, but at this current moment, I'm not sure whether I want to do the full week, IDS experience again."

So, as my colleagues depart for Germany on Monday morning, I am not overly disappointed that I will not be accompanying them. Instead, I would like to reflect on some of the notable establishments in Cologne, where one can enjoy quality food, freely flowing beer, engaging conversation, and a relaxing atmosphere after a long day at the exhibition stand.

A quick catch-up on the domestic front

As we pass the midpoint of March, and with five blog articles under my belt, I have reached the halfway point in my goal of 10 posts per month. It’s been hard going at times, as there’s been a lot happening on both the domestic and the work front, including the planning of a couple more cruises.  The latter demonstrates that play is just as important as work, if not more so! In the meantime, I have remained occupied with several projects leading to improvements on both the house and garden fronts. I won't bore you with the details now, although I will return to that great British standby topic, of the weather.

So far this month, we’ve experienced intermittent spells of warm weather, interspersed by a couple of cold, and I mean very cold, snaps. During my lunchtime walk yesterday, I had to return briefly to the office to grab my woolly hat due to the cold northerly wind. 

Walking across the old Penshurst airfield meant facing this biting wind directly, but today it was a different scenario, with the beginning of forecast spell of warmer conditions. I’m sure that poor mother nature doesn’t know which way to turn, but despite recent setbacks spring is well and truly on its way. Numerous daffodils are now in bloom, and some trees are showing signs of blossom. Typically, blackthorn is the first tree to bloom, with its pink and white flowers adding a contrasting touch to the yellow hues of daffodils and primroses.

This year, we are saying farewell to the kitchen garden, which is the plot of land closest to the house. It did us proud last year, with a bountiful crop of runner beans, plus a few sweetcorn, although I rather naively left it too late, before harvesting the cobs. On the other side of the garden though, the leeks I planted out early last autumn, have come into their own, and we are slowly munching our way through them, not only in stews or casseroles, but also as tasty late winter vegetables, in their own right.

Growing one’s own veg requires a lot of effort, as well as time, and it is the latter that I want to have more of this summer, especially as there are places, I wish to visit and pubs I want to drink in. The kitchen garden then, is to be converted into an area of hard standing. I have already reached out to an old school friend of Matthew’s, who has successfully established his own landscape gardening business, and am waiting for him to call round in order to price up the job.

Mrs. PBT has already staked her claim to this proposed area and marked it as somewhere to “sit out", whatever that means. This is despite us already having a patio area, for that sort of thing. It’s probably just as well that she doesn’t know of my plan for a new, but smaller greenhouse, as this flat, area of solid ground would serve well as the ideal base for such a construction.   

 Our current, and rather tumbledown greenhouse, came as part of the house, when we moved in during 1994. Although I have made numerous repairs to the structure, including replacing broken panes with Perspex ones, and fitting staging inside, thanks to a combination of weather and old age, it has now deteriorated to a point where it is beyond redemption. So, a small, compact greenhouse sited nearer the house, seems a practical solution, and one I am determined to press on with.

In the meantime, we’ve got a couple of cruises to look forward to. The first, in just over a week, is a four-day cruise, to Hamburg and back. Our son Matthew will accompany us on this short sea voyage, which will be his first cruise, and his first experience of life afloat. He appears to be looking forward to it, although he has not expressed much enthusiasm verbally. I have assured him of an extended tour of central Hamburg, planned to span from mid-morning until late afternoon, and after reviewing various blogs, including Retired Martin's, as well as online recommendations, I have compiled a shortlist of potential bars and pubs near the city centre, with one looking out across the Elbe River.

 

Starting from the third week in May, Mrs PBT’s and I will be embarking on a two-week cruise around the coast of the British Isles. The itinerary includes several stops in the Highlands and Islands, with a crossing of the Irish Sea towards the end of the voyage. Our ship will be docking at both Dublin and Cork. I may opt to skip the former, having spent a long weekend in the Irish capital a decade ago, mainly because the ship docks some distance from the city centre, and requires a tender for disembarkation. Eileen isn’t over-keen on hopping off one vessel and onto another, particularly if there’s a bit of a swell. Cork should be an enjoyable destination, as it is the Republic's second-largest city and renowned for its legendary stout brands such as Murphy's and Beamish, both of which are better than Guinness, IMO.

Upon returning from our these two spring holidays, I am planning to head north and explore a few of the Yorkshire towns that I have not previously had the opportunity to visit in depth, if at all. Halifax, Huddersfield, and Hebden Bridge spring to mind, so any recommendations as to which is the better pub town? After that, is back to domesticity, and the plan is to have a new kitchen installed. We’ve been in the house for over 30 years, and the current kitchen is the result of a botched DIY job by the previous, rather eccentric owner of the property. We will try and arrange for that work to be carried out whilst we’re sailing around Britain's coastline.

Finally, even though there may be more domestic stuff to write about later, the blog is undergoing a reorganization. This involves removing a number of inactive, or rarely updated blogs, that were cluttering my blog list, making it difficult to find active ones. While they don’t affect the blog directly, having to scroll through numerous entries that haven’t been updated for months or longer means it's time to let go of some, even if they hold sentimental value to their authors. On the plus side, I have added several new sites to the list, more details to follow, if you haven’t spotted these changes already.

Pub Friday - Salehurst & Robertsbridge Pt. 2

Carrying on from the previous post, you left me arriving at the tiny village of Salehurst, and about to enter the quaintly named Salehurst Halt pub. This would be my second visit to the pub, with the last one being during the summer of 2017. It had been a scorcher, on that occasion, and despite an evening walk out from Robertsbridge, it was still stiflingly hot when my friend Eric and I arrived at the pub.

The weather conditions were obviously different last Friday, with a chill northerly wind doing its best to lower temperatures, but there was no sign of the threatened rain. I was still relieved to reach the sanctuary of this solid, but unassuming Victorian building, although my next thought was, would the pub be open? Daft question really, as of course it was, but sometimes you do get that heart-stopping feeling that, “Due to unforeseen circumstances, we are unable to open today.”

Relieved at spotting a light inside, I turned the door handle and stepped inside. The pub seemed to be ticking over nicely, with a mixed group of patrons, consisting mainly of diners, but also the occasional drinker, such as me. One hardy individual was sitting there in his hiking gear, with his OS Map spread out on the table, in anticipation of the next stage of his hike. He looked like the person I’d spotted earlier, on the train down from Tonbridge. People watching aside, the Salehurst Halt describes itself as a family run, community led, country pub, with a policy of supporting local producers when sourcing its food and its drink. There is a focus on seasonality and sustainability, whilst balancing the traditional with the more modern, and a look on the pub’s website, will confirm this.

The need for a beer was foremost in my mind, and true to the Halt’s policy, the three cask offerings were indeed all locally sourced. Arrow Head, from the nearby Battle Brewery took my fancy, at first – another new tick on Untappd? But standing out on the bar was a pump for Harvey’s Old, almost certainly my favourite winter beer, and one that I hadn’t seen a lot of this season. I was a little bit apprehensive, when the barmaid mentioned pulling some beer through – it turned out they hadn’t sold any that morning, but I needn’t have worried, as the beer was pure nectar. Rich, dark, inviting, and satisfying, in other words hitting the spot in all ways imaginable.

I took my pint, and sat at a convenient empty table, in sight of the bar, thinking the day couldn’t get much better, even though a light snack, would put the top hat on things. I ordered a bowl of chunky fries, skipping the cheese as a nod towards being healthy, and whilst waiting for them to arrive made a visit to the Gents, on the pretext of looking around the rest of the pub. It was very much as I remembered it from that first visit, seven years ago, although most of the customers, myself included, seemed a little older.

The main thing is the Salehurst Halt is still open, and functioning as a “proper” pub, an encouraging sign during these times when the licensed trade is under pressure from all sides. I mentioned last time, how the pub featured on an episode of BBC “Country File”, when singer and actor David Essex paid the place a visit, because it reminded him of childhood holidays, hop-picking with his East-London family. In the meantime, my chips turned up, and whilst waiting for them to cool slightly, I ordered another glass of Old Ale. With the inner man fully satisfied, it was time to make my way back to Robertsbridge. This time, the walk was in full sunshine, although there was still a slight chill in the air.

Arriving back in the village, there was one final pub to visit prior to catching the train home, and that was the Ostrich Hotel.  Opened in 1851, following the completion of the railway from London, the pub’s name is derived from the coat of arms on its sign, which are those of the lordship of the Manor of Robertsbridge.  It is a comfortable pub with a large “L”-shaped bar and separate games room and restaurant. The walls are adorned with an assortment of paintings, prints and other pieces from the landlord’s collection, and there are some rather saucy Edwardian photos in the Gent’s toilets. With a number of comfortable old sitting chairs, the place had the feel of a 1920’s sitting room.

Eric and I had really enthused over the pub, on our first visit, back in 2016, describing it as a good, old-fashioned sort of pub, of the type both of us remembered with affection from our youth. The landlord had recounted how he had bought the Ostrich from the owning brewery, back in the mid 1990’s, and described the establishment as a “proper pub”. Apart from the guvnor and me, there was just two other customers in the pub, but it was mid-afternoon. I’ve a feeling that the landlord recognised me, in the way that pub licensees have a knack for remembering faces. It might have just been my imagination, but whatever the case, the Harvey’s Best was in good form.

It's worth bearing in mind that as well as serving decent, and keenly priced food, the Ostrich is also a full-blown hotel, offering two twin-bedded en-suite rooms and one double room with a private bathroom. Along with the nearby George, it makes a good base for exploring the Rother Valley and surrounding area. I only stayed for one pint, as three and a bit is ample for me, especially during the afternoon. I left the pub and walked the short distance across the road, to the station and the train home.

It was good to discover that little had changed in Robertsbridge and Salehurst over the past seven years, although this update from local correspondent Dominic, that appeared on the blog in 2023, sheds a little light on the closed Harvey's pub, a derelict old mill, plus the KESR extension.

"Several tenants held the Seven Stars for relatively short periods and seemed to find it hard going. It has been closed now ever since .... and the signage removed. It is deteriorating, and the parish council planning committee has expressed concern. The chapel next door has sold recently, thought to be for residential."

"Hodsons Mill, in Northbridge Street remains derelict after 19 years. Planning consent for a major residential and commercial development remains extant. Rebuilding the railway back to Bodiam and the KESR is going ahead."