Last
Wednesday evening, I was relaxing after a busy few days at work, and sitting
down to watch, what for me is a rare spot of television. The programme I was
about to watch was the first episode in a new series of
Race Around the World. For
those who might have been asleep, or otherwise missed the previous three series,
five pairs of travellers participate in a race that will take them
through several different countries, although there is a major catch. The pairs
cannot travel by plane, must leave their smartphones and credit cards behind,
and will not have access to the internet. Provided only with the cash equivalent of their ai
rfare from their starting destination to the finishing line, they
must find innovative ways to manage their budget and conduct their journey. If
the pairs run out of money, they must earn some more to continue the journey,
and they must also pass through a number of checkpoints along the way.
Series 4 (Season
4, for American readers), saw the pairs starting in Sapporo, capital of
Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan’s main islands, on the first leg of an epic
journey that will eventually take them to Indonesia. Their destination at the
end of this first leg is the resort city of Nara, a short distance from Kyoto,
in the south of the country. The mention
of Nara, with its attractive deer park, and numerous historic temples, brought
back pleasant memories for me, as this was the town that I visited, with a colleague,
at the end of a business trip to Japan. That was in May 2013, so almost 11
years ago. But on the last day of what was quite an intense week-long visit, it
was good to escape the hustle and bustle of Kyoto and take the short (50
minutes) train trip to Nara.
Regular
readers of this blog will be aware that the company I work for - part-time,
now, is
Japanese owned, and whilst there are obviously quite strong links
between us and
Japan, we operate with a fair degree of autonomy. I’m not 100%
sure how the idea for the visit came about, but whatever the reason I jumped at
the chance when it was offered. I travelled out with
Marielle, our
Operations
Manager who is originally from
France. With no direct flights between the
UK
and
Kyoto, we had to change enroute. Several options were available, but we
went with
Dutch national carrier,
KLM, which meant changing flights at
Amsterdam Schiphol.
We were
well looked after by our
Japanese hosts, and we both came away having learned a
lot about how the parent company operates. My sphere of interest was quality
control and product testing, whilst my colleague’s specialty was automation of production
and packing operations. I’m not quite sure what prompted us to visit
Nara, but it
probably came about after a senior colleague from the
UK joined us, towards the
end of the week. On the
Saturday evening, the three of us went out for dinner,
and as this
was our first evening without our Japanese hosts,
we decided to choose a European style restaurant, rather than a more locally
themed one.
Our choice for the evening was the
Beer Restaurant,
located in the basement of a tower block, just outside
Kyoto’s sprawling central
station. Unashamedly styled on a
Bavarian Beer Hall, the
Beer Restaurant served
draught
Löwenbräu, bottled
Export Bass plus a couple of bottled
Belgian beers, but as we were in
Japan, I decided to stay local and opted
for a mug of
Asahi Kuronama. Described as
Japan’s favourite dark beer, this distinct,
rich, and ultra smooth beer, is brewed from a blend of dark, crystal and Munich
malts. It was very good, and slipped down a treat, so much so that I ended up over-indulging
and knocked back three
"medium" sized mugs of this excellent beer.
Fortunately, the following day was our final one in
the country and was reserved for sight-seeing rather than business. Our
recently arrived colleague
Barry, wanted to do his own thing, but if we wanted
somewhere close by to visit, he recommended the of
Nara, which is home to a
large number of impressive shrines, temples, and other
World Heritage sites.
Having done our present and souvenir shopping
earlier that day with our
Japanese colleagues, a spot of culture, plus an
escape from the metropolis, seemed a good idea, which is why
Marielle and I
found ourselves on
Kyoto station the following morning, waiting for a train to
Nara.
There are two main rail stations in the town, both called
Nara,
but are distinguished by the train lines they serve:
JR (Japan Railways) and
Kintetsu. Whilst this can be a little confusing for first-time visitors, the two
stations are only a 15-minute walk from each other. We travelled with the
JR
service, primarily because we had been given a complimentary
JR rail pass
(basically a
Japanese version of an
Oyster Card), when we booked our return
ticket from and back to
Kansai Airport, when we first arrived in the country. This
system where separate rail companies run their own separate trains on their own
rail tracks, was what
John Major envisaged, when he carried out his flawed
privatisation of
British Rail, between
1994-97, although things didn’t quite turn
out the way he planned.
I digress,
we had a pleasant journey through the
Japanese countryside, and despite feeling
rather hungover from the excess
Asahi Dark I’d consumed the previous evening, I
enjoyed the ride. My colleague was feeling fine, after restricting herself to
wine in the
Beer Restaurant, so I allowed her to take the lead when it came to navigating our way around the town. Our colleague
Barry had told us that the majority of
Nara’s
temples, and other attractions were located either in, or close to the l
arge
deer park sited at the top of the hill, overlooking the town, so after picking
up a map from the station, that is where we headed.
There was a
definite
“resort” feeling about
Nara, as we stepped out of the station, and headed
towards the deer park, the whole town felt less hurried, less busy and seemed
virtually traffic free. The air too, felt cleaner and fresher – probably due to
the town’s location amongst the hills and forests of
southern Japan. The
thumping in my head was starting to subside, and apart from a thirst, cured by
drinking copious amounts of water, I was starting to feel much more human than
I did when I crawled out of bed that morning.
Nara Park is a large park in central
Nara,
and is the location of many of the town's main attractions including
Todaiji,
Kasuga
Taisha, Kofukuji and the
Nara
National Museum. It is also home to hundreds of freely roaming deer.
Considered the messengers of the gods, the deer have become a symbol of the
city.
"Deer crackers" are for sale around
the park, and some deer have learned to bow to visitors to ask to be fed.
Nara's deer are surprisingly tame, although they can be aggressive if they
think people are about to feed them, so visitors should not try teasing them
teasing them with food.
I won’t
detail all the temples we saw because
a) I can’t remember them all,
b) they
wouldn’t mean much to those who haven’t visited
Nara, and
c) there were too
many of them, but the one that really stood out, and attracted the largest
crowds, was
Todaiji the "Great Eastern Temple.” This is
one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples
and a landmark of Nara. Todaiji's main hall, the Daibutsuden
(Big Buddha Hall), is one of the world's largest wooden building, and houses
one of Japan's largest bronze statues of the Buddha,
which stands at 15 metres tall.
There were also many well laid out, and attractive
gardens, and creating these serene and
relaxing spaces, is something the Japanese
excel at. Nara Park was teaming with visitors that day, including organised
school parties, plus many other visitors, mainly Japanese, but there were some European
faces amongst them. As we made our way towards one of the exits to the park, we
chanced upon a traditional Japanese wedding taking place. This was at Kasuga-Taisha,
a Shinto shrine, famous for its lanterns.
These have been donated by worshipers, and hundreds of bronze lanterns can be found hanging from the
buildings, while numerous stone lanterns line its approaches.
Upon leaving the park, we made our way back to Nara JR station,
for the train back to Kyoto. It had been a fascinating day out, and a fitting
end of our visit to the Land of the Rising Sun.