The second, and final day of my
North Downs Way walk was, if
anything, harder than the first. This was despite it being just over half the
distance, in terms of actual miles walked. Two steep ascents, and the same
number of equally precipitous descents didn’t help (what goes up, must come
down), but neither did the fact that for much of the journey, I was walking
through woodland.
Being in what is effectively an enclosed environment, means
it becomes difficult to judge distance travelled or, indeed, how much further
there is to go. Basically, one loses one’s sense of perspective! Getting lost a
couple of times on the initial part of the journey, didn’t help much either,
but all in all it was still an enjoyable day’s walking; even if it was rather
different from the previous day. That, of course, is the beauty of the NDW, as
the scenery and, quite often the terrain, are so varied.
I set off in high spirits, after a good night’s sleep and a
hearty breakfast following my overnight stop at the
Black Horse, Thurnham. Straight away, I was forced to gain height,
in order to access the
NDW, following the steeply climbing road up from the pub
towards the remains of
Thurnham Castle, high on the ridge overlooking the
surrounding countryside.
The trail skirts the mound on which the castle is
constructed, but according to my guidebook, there is precious little left of
this 13th Century fortification.
I should, of course have been paying attention to the guidebook – even
though it is written for those travelling in an easterly direction, because
after skirting the top of the hill that is home to the White Horse Country Park,
I found myself trapped behind a barbed wire fence at the apex of a field.
I could see where I wanted to be but was reluctant to
retrace my footsteps in order to regain the path. Fortunately, I manage to
squeeze through a gap between the top of the fence and the string of barbed wire,
although I had to remove both my rucksack and my coat in order to do so. This
was a similar occurrence to what I’d experienced the day before, the common
factor being the ownership of this area of the
North Downs, by the
Hucking
Estate, and its management by the
Woodland Trust.
A lack of signage on this section of the NDW, seems to be a
common complaint, if the reports on TripAdvisor are anything to go by; the most
appropriate one being “Be prepared to get very lost!” Shortly after my
undignified scramble through the fence, I again found myself looking for the
correct path. I was aiming for the village of Detling, and whilst I could see
it below, and to my right, how to access the correct track seemed a complete
mystery.
I sought advice from two women, out walking their dog, but
they confessed they weren’t the best people to ask, as they too were lost. Fortunately,
a knight in shining armour, in the form of another walker, came to our rescue.
He put the two dog walkers on the right path, and then directed me to the
steeply descending track that would take me down into
Detling. He also warned of an even steeper ascent as
the
NDW makes its way out of the village, on the other side of the busy
A249
dual carriageway.
My route into Detling was from the east, and as I approached
the heart of the village, I could see the Cock Horse pub directly in front of
me. I was too early for opening time and it was too early for a beer as well,
so after skirting the pub I headed for the crossing that would take me over the
A249.
The footbridge known as
"Jade’s Crossing," is named after
eight-year-old
Jade Hobbs who, along with her grandmother, was killed in
2000
whilst attempting to cross the
A249. Despite this tragedy, and two earlier
deaths,
Kent County Council continued to resist calls for a protected crossing,
until shamed into doing so by a fundraising campaign, led by local people.
Walking across this footbridge with four lanes of traffic thundering
underneath, it is difficult to imagine how the authorities could have been so
callously short-sighted!
The guide I’d spoken to earlier was right about the steep
climb back up to the escarpment, as the track through the trees
Hermitage
Lane, seemed to go on forever, passing a substantial, but now disused chalk
quarry. I had a slight chuckle over the spoof entry that appeared in a local
CAMRA pub guide 40 years ago, in response to plans to reopen the former
Detling
Lime Works, which was sited in this very chalk pit.
I was one of several people who went looking for the
“Quarryman’s Arms,” an old pub that had “reopened, after standing empty for
many years.” Local opposition to the quarry’s reopening must have been running
strong, so I take my hat off to the two lads (both CAMRA members), who managed
to hoodwink the editor by getting this fictitious entry, a place in the guide!
The NDW takes a sharp turn to the left at the top of this
lane, and then follows the edge of a beech-wood for several miles. Boxley Wood
merges into Westfield Wood, and whilst this section was on level ground, until
the very end, quite frankly it was boring. Okay, it was nice to be out of the
wind, and good to be on the flat, but with very little in the way of landmarks to act as guidance, it was
difficult to know exactly where one was.
At times, the trail veered off deeper into the woods, whilst
at others it left the shelter of the trees for the edge of a muddy field. I
took no photos, as there was very little to capture on camera, but whilst the
walk was boring, there were times when it felt a little creepy – almost as if I
was being followed!
I wasn’t of course, although I was very nearly bowled over
by a powerful female jogger who came bounding towards me, but returning to the
subject of woodland walks, there is something slightly spooky, a sort of
primeval fear that goes with walking alone, through a wood which never seems to
end.
The wood did eventually end, but not before a lengthy, and
at times quite steep descent through some dense and quite gloomy areas of
woodland. In several sections there were steps cut into the slope, to make
one’s descent easier, but even so I was mightily relieved to have brought my trusty walking stick along. Not only did it steady me during this tricky descent, it
also stopped me tripping up over numerous, half-buried tree roots. A stick also
gives added impetus on upward sections and helps one maintain a steady and
rhythmic pace on level ground.
I emerged from the trees just past the White Horse Stone; a
Neolithic megalith of some historic significance. I was feeling rather weary
and footsore by this time and had already passed this large and unevenly shaped
lump of stone, before I realised what it was. I certainly wasn’t persuaded to
deviate the short distance from the trail for a closer inspection.
Instead I passed out of the woods and followed a path which
led over the
high-speed rail line, just before it disappears into a lengthy
tunnel, beneath the mass of the looming
Blue Bell Hill. After crossing the
railway and then disappearing into the rather gloomy subway under the busy
A229,
there was just a short, half mile section of
NDW left to walk, until I arrived at the place
I’d started from on my
walk to Cuxton, the previous month.
I now had to find a suitable public transport link that
would get me home. There was the possibility of a bus, but that meant a mile or
so of walking to the top of Blue Bell Hill. The alternative was a route
march down into Aylesford. The latter was nearly twice as long as the former,
but at least was downhill all the way, although the lack of a pavement made walking
quite hazardous at times.
A more sensible option would have been to have walked up to
the
Lower Bell pub, ordered myself a well-earned pint and then phoned for a
taxi! I wasn’t sensible, and unfortunately
Rochester Road proved busier than anticipated, but
there were verges for most of the way, plus a very welcome section where a
bridleway, hidden behind a hedge, ran parallel with the road.
Mrs PBT’s would
have called me foolhardy, or worse, but keeping my wits about me, I arrived in
Aylesford village in one piece and without too many close shaves!
As I walked past the
Bush pub and caught a glimpse of the
cheery and welcoming interior, I was very tempted to call in for a pint. The
London Pride hand pump on the bar looked extra inviting and had it not been for
the notice on the door, asking customers, not unreasonably, to remove muddy
boots before entering, I would have popped inside.
As it was, if I had removed my footwear, it’s doubtful I’d have
got
them back on, so I carried on into the centre of Aylesford, before finding a most welcome bench, where I sat and ate the cheese roll that was left over
from the previous day. The station was much further from the village than I
remembered, but I still reached it in plenty of time for the train back to Tonbridge.
That two days of walking means there is now just a seven-mile
gap between Wye and Charing before I complete the bulk of the Kentish section,
and head west into Surrey along the final 50 miles of the North Downs Way and the end of the trail in the town of
Farnham.