A long closed pub and an eagerly awaited re-opening

At the beginning of September last year, I wrote a post entitled Friday in Tonbridge. It was basically a collection of photos, plus a write up of some of the pubs, restaurants and independent shops at the northern end of Tonbridge High Street.

Unsurprisingly, given the highly localised subject matter, the post didn’t attract any comments, but I thought about it again on Sunday afternoon when son Matthew and I took a brief stroll around this part of the town.  This was after we’d been for a brief drive over to Wateringbury – don’t ask me what for, as it’s all rather complicated!

We parked up close to Tonbridge Parish Church, which is dedicated to St Peter & St Paul. It is an attractive building constructed out of local sandstone and is said to date back to Saxon times, although personally I find that hard to believe. The tower was built in the 14^th Century, but most of the church is fairly recent, following restoration and extension work during the late Victorian period. 

Now here comes the confession; during the 35 years that I’ve lived in Tonbridge, I’ve never once set foot in its parish church, but with places of worship closed because of the Covid-19 restrictions, Sunday was not the time to make my first acquaintance. Also sadly closed, and for the same reason, was the Rose & Crown; Tonbridge’s largest and most prestigious hotel.  

I wrote a piece about this historic old inn here and mentioned it’s the hotel of choice amongst our Japanese board members when they come over for meetings. I don’t know when they’ll next be over, but there are rumblings that hotels and guest houses could be allowed to reopen early next month. If this happens it will be welcome news indeed to those of us wanting to spend a few days away from home.

From the Rose & Crown we headed over to Tonbridge’s historic castle. There seemed plenty of visitors spread out across the castle lawn, but all keeping a suitable distance from one another. Matthew then wanted to take a wander around the Slade area of the town, to have a look at one of Tonbridge’s long closed pubs. 

The Stag’s Head in Stafford Road has been shut for the best part of 10 years. The building is still standing, but it looks very sad and un-cared for. The pub was close to the original site of Tonbridge market, and was always particularly busy on market days. The market itself relocated several years before the closure of the Stag’s Head; the traders having accepted an offer to sell their town centre site to a group of developers. 

Houses now occupy the ground where the market traders once plied their wares. The market’s new site is one of the railway car parks and is a rather bleak and windswept location – especially in winter. Footfall and trade are now a fraction of what they were back in the market’s heyday, but such is the price of "progress."

Returning to the Stag’s Head for a few moments, it’s sad to see this once thriving pub now empty and falling into disrepair. Rumour has it the former landlord is still living there, having shut up shop following the death of his wife. I’m not sure how true this story is, but I have fond memories of the Stag. Back in the day it was the first pub in Tonbridge to stock Timothy Taylor’s beer and rather unusually, it was Best Bitter that was stocked, rather than the much more common Landlord.

I’m sure the pub could still be saved, given enough cash and a pair of

sympathetic hands. There are plenty of attractive Victorian cottages in the Slade area, many of them renovated to a high standard, so there would be no shortage of customers. Instead, the local punters will probably gravitate to the Ivy House which, when I wrote my piece last September, was undergoing an extensive renovation.

A look at the Ivy House was next on our agenda. The pub’s new owners had originally planned to open at Easter, until that nasty little virus threw a spanner in the works. The Ivy is now open, but only for people

to collect pre-ordered take-away food. We walked past and could see through the open door that the place had been refurbished to a high standard. The on-line take-away offering looks good too, especially the burgers.

The Ivy House is one of the oldest pubs in Tonbridge and in recent years has had rather a chequered history combined with lots of different owners.  It will be good if the new people make a go of it and I’m pretty certain they will, given their proven track-record elsewhere in the area. I’m looking forward to having a drink there, once the current restrictions are lifted, and finding out for myself.

More small steps along the North Downs Way

I took Friday off from work; only the second day’s annual leave I have taken this financial year. I felt in need of a break as, despite not many of us being in, it’s been pretty much non-stop at work. A couple of weeks ago, we finally received our revised ISO and CE certification, after a frenetic 14-month period.


Our application and transition to our new accreditation body involved a considerable amount of work, and whilst I wasn’t involved at the sharp end, I still played a major role in terms of preparing documentation and other paperwork necessary for our transfer.

Our new notified body is TÜV Sud, a highly respected testing and accreditation organisation, based in Munich, Bavaria. This means, we are now subject to German law, in respect of our dealings with our new NB – so much for “taking back control!”

TÜV Sud didn’t leave us hanging about, as on Wednesday they conducted the first of a series of agreed surveillance audits. Because of the pandemic, the audit was conducted remotely using Skype, and although I wasn’t called in for the closing meeting, it appears to have gone well.

So, with this major hurdle now cleared, the idea of a day off was even more appealing than usual. Apart from a day spent getting my car serviced in mid-April, my previous day’s leave was at the end of the first week in March, when I travelled up to Britain’s brewing capital – Burton-on-Trent, to enjoy a “Proper Day Out” in the company of the “real pub men” of the Beer & Pubs Forum.

That day out seems like a lifetime away, and a visit to any pub now is unfortunately out of the question, but what was feasible was knocking off another section of the North Down’s Way. Son Matthew was keen to accompany me, as he’s been going stir-crazy these past ten weeks of lock-down, so it was just a case of which section to go for, and where to start from.

I’d been looking at the map and had noticed a free car park and viewing area on the crest of Blue Bell Hill, close to the A229 – M2 junction. The NDW passes close by, so we’d be able to pick up the trail and head in either direction. My plan was to walk in a westerly direction, towards the River Medway. It was just over 4 miles to where the route crosses the river, by means of a footway on the viaduct carrying the M2 motorway and high-speed rail-link high across the Medway, just to the south of Rochester.

It seemed quite doable, even though it meant retracing our steps and walking a further four miles back to the car. We left home shortly after 10 am. Traffic wasn’t too heavy, even on the stretch of the M20 motorway that bypasses Maidstone. We reached the top of Blue Bell Hill and, despite getting slightly lost in the maze of side roads just below the summit, found the car park we were looking for.

There was just one problem, it was closed due to guess what? the Corona-virus pandemic.  I wasn’t best pleased. The car park is owned and maintained by the Kent Wildlife Trust, and I’d made a point of checking on their website about opening times and accessibility. I double checked when we got home, again nothing about the place being closed. The only reason we could think of was, as the site was un-manned, it was closed to prevent access and occupation by so-called “travellers.”

It was time to put plan B into action which involved a drive west, along the M20 and M26 as far as Wrotham. There we parked up, in a quiet street, just down from the recreation ground and a couple of hundred yards away from where the NDW passes through the village.

It seemed strange to be back in a place that I’d last set foot in five months ago. Back in January I’d walked there from Otford, following the route of the NDW. I’d ended my journey with a celebratory pint in Wrotham’s Bull Hotel, but with all pubs in the village firmly closed, there would be no welcoming pint of beer at the end of this walk. Matthew and I had each brought a packed lunch, so at least there would be the chance of a sandwich or two. Not quite the same, but sometimes we have to compromise.

 

We found the spot where the NDW passes through the village and quickly joined the A227. We followed the road as it passes over the M20 motorway, before heading off in an easterly direction along the rather narrow Pilgrims Way. This narrow road then veers off to the north-east, following the base of the North Downs escarpment, and there were several “off-road” sections were the trail diverges off into grassy fields.

The latter were full of grazing sheep, but fortunately nothing larger, or fiercer and we made good progress towards Hognore Wood, where we knew we would have to climb to the top of the escarpment. To our right we could see across to the Medway gap in the distance, whilst just the other side of the Pilgrims Way, there were several fields of poppies – all looking resplendent under the rather cloudy skies.

It was quite a climb up through the woods, and the stony track, which was hard going underfoot, seemed to go on forever. We met a fellow walker, descending the slope with his two dogs, but apart from two ladies – also with a dog, plus alone cyclist, there was no-one else out and about. The woodland is known as Wrotham Water; a Site of Special Scientific Interest, owned by the National Trust and manged on their behalf by the Woodland Trust. 

It’s a shame then, that some brainless individual had chosen to dump a pile of household rubbish there! This type of vandalism is unfortunately becoming all too common in rural areas, particularly after council tips were closed due to lock-down restrictions. Eventually we reached the summit and level ground, but not before we’d passed a lengthy brick wall enclosing a garden that appeared to be part of a much larger property.

 

We carried on until we emerged back onto the A227, a short distance long from the now sadly closed Vigo Inn.  This attractive old pub closed several years before the current crisis; its loss being sadly lamented by all who love traditional pubs. For years the Vigo was the only pub where customers could play "Dadlums"; a form of table skittles, peculiar to this part of north-west Kent. The photo below, taken in the mid 1980’s, shows me plus a group of CAMRA friends, gathered around the pub’s Dadlums table.

The pub is named after the battle of Vigo Bay, a naval encounter which took place in 1702, during the War of the Spanish Succession, but prior to that it was known as the Upper Drover. Although the pub is sadly no more, its name lives on as that of the nearby Vigo Village; a modern settlement built in the mid-20th century, on a site that once housed an army camp during World War II. 

For pedants, the area around both pub and village is known as Fairseat, which itself is a hamlet in the parish of Stanstead. It was here that we did an about turn, but not before noting the position of the bus stop. Once this virus situation is properly under control, and a sense of normality returns, I can take a bus from Sevenoaks, to the stop opposite the former Vigo Inn, and resume the North Downs Way. 

From the Vigo, it is an eight mile walk to Cuxton, a village on the west bank of the Medway and in the shadow of the Medway Bridges. Cuxton will be an ideal end point for that stretch, as it has its own railway station, on the Medway Valley line. From there, I can get a train back home to Tonbridge. 

That’s all in the future, but to conclude our walk, Matthew and I followed more or less the same route back to Wrotham, although once at the bottom of the escarpment, we stuck to the tarmacked Pilgrims Way. It had started to rain, as we approached the village; nothing substantial, just a little annoying, but it was wet enough to prevent us from sitting out in the recreation ground to enjoy our sandwiches. Instead, we sat and ate them in the car.

Our walk was just over five miles in total, which means another two and a half miles knocked off from the NDW total. Small steps in the general scheme of things, but still nice to get away from work and regulatory matters and instead, get out and enjoy the glorious Kent countryside.