2019 - The Year in Beer - Part Two

Continuing from where we left off, with this beer and travel-related review of 2019.

Best Days Out

A day in Rye with Retired Martin. At the back end of February, under a cloudless sky, Martin and I took a good look round this charming Sussex, hilltop town. We enjoyed some excellent beer at the Ypres Castle; an exemplary pub, run by the legendary Jeff Bell, followed by fish and chips, eaten straight out of the bag - the perfect end to a perfect day out.

Shifnal with the Real Pub Men. A day out in the Shropshire town of Shifnal; a place I’d never heard of the town until a few weeks before the trip. Despite the inclement weather, and general gloom of late November,  I really enjoyed exploring Shifnal’s excellent array of pubs, an undertaking made all the more enjoyable by the equally excellent company.

Bucket List

Bucket lists, by their very nature, are meant to be fluid, but one quite achievable item is for me to visit every European country, (44 in total, if you include  places such as Andora, Monaco, San Merino & Liechtenstein.)

Poland was one country I crossed off the list. I enjoyed a delightful four day break in Krakow; a city which, unlike Warsaw, was largely spared the destruction of the Second World War. With much of the Krakow’s old town still intact there was plenty to see and hold my interest plus, of course, some interesting bars and beers.

China. Although not on my original list of countries to visit,  I wasn’t going to turn down the chance of a business trip to China, even if it was rather short for my liking. Not much in the way of beer, but a pretty amazing place, with lots to see, both old and new, authentic cuisine and the sheer experience of just being there.

 

Qatar. I passed through Doha, the capital of this enigmatic Gulf State, whilst changing flights, on my journey to and from Guangzhou. It would have been good to stop off for a look round, as I liked what I saw from the promotional video we were shown on the plane.

Luxury Cruise.  At the end of October, Mrs PBT’s and I enjoyed a short, two day mini-cruise, from Southampton to Zeebrugge and back. We journeyed on the Cunard Queen Elizabeth, which afforded a real touch of luxury and a good introduction to the world of cruising.

Best Locations to Enjoy a Beer

Greyhound, Charcott. A continuing success story for this lovingly restored village local, rescued from closure by an enterprising local couple. Since re-opening two and a half years ago, the Greyhound has become a thriving and welcoming country pub, offering good beer and good food to both local residents and visitors.

Codsall Station Bar. A restored Victorian waiting room and booking office next to the platform at Codsall station. Now converted into a rather nice outlet for Holden’s beers, this was the first stop on our day out in Shifnal, and is definitely  is a place well worth missing a few trains for!

Ypres Castle, Rye.  A lovely old pub, reached via a steep flight of steps from the town's Gun Gardens and the Ypres Tower. Lovingly restored and run with pride and real professionalism by the legendary Jeff Bell. Old Dairy, beers at their best, local ciders and Rothaus Pils from Germany’s Black Forest.

Hopbine, Petteridge.  Another classic country pub, tucked away in a quiet rural hamlet, consisting of just a few cottages. Last year marked my first visit since the pub became a free-house. I liked it so much that I returned for a second visit, a few months later.

Wrega Polish Pub & Gallery. A great place, to enjoy al fresco eating and drinking, that I stumbled upon, by accident, after a day spent
walking round Krakow’s old Jewish quarter.

Peters Brauhaus, Köln. A very traditional looking establishment, where the gravity-dispensed Peters Kӧlsch ranked amongst the best we came across in the city.

Bierhaus en d'r Salzgass, Köln.  Another real traditional old-school,  Cologne pub, this one serving  Päffgen Kölsch, again  dispensed straight from the cask. Päffgen’s brew-pub lies some distance west of the Altstadt, so to find this excellent Kölsch available right in the city centre, was a real bonus.
 

North Downs Way

Back in July I enjoyed three days extended walking, completing the missing sections of the Canterbury loop. The only downside was low cloud and drizzly rain blowing in off the English Channel, on the second day. What should have a been a route along the White Cliffs, with glorious views out to sea, ended up as a day shrouded in mist.

I found it rather satisfying, not just walking about in an area relatively close to home, but putting up at a B&B that is still in the same county.  

This had the added benefit of being able to allowing a full day’s walking by hitting the trail straight after breakfast.

Campaign for Real Ale

For several years now, I have been questioning whether I wish my membership of CAMRA to continue. Back in November, I concluded that apart from the excellent BEER magazine, there is very little happening within the organisation which persuaded me to remain a member. As I was not a life member, I took the sad decision to terminate my membership, after 45 years as a member.

I intend to write a full-blown article about how I arrived at this rather brutal decision, but I feel that whilst it’s been a lot of fun along the way, CAMRA has lost its way and is no longer relevant in today's fast changing world.

The Campaign was primarily a young person’s organisation when I joined, but now the opposite is true. Back in those early days there was a real sense of discovery in seeking out local beers around the country, and enjoying them in some real, cracking pubs. If you like there was an almost pioneering spirit associated with CAMRA; a spirit whic has long sinve vanished. 

Over the years, I've met scores of interesting people, made many good friends and got to drink some amazing beers in some equally amazing pubs, but all good things come to an end and, for this reason alone, I think it's best to go out on a high.

CAMRA can hold its head up high for providing the spark which led to the totally unforeseen rise in interest in beer around the world, and the creation of hundreds, if not thousands of new breweries, producing an unprecedented and ever expanding range of different beers. I'm proud to have played a part in this incredible achievement.

2019 - The Year in Beer - Part One

The year 2019 was rather a strange one as far as I am concerned. If I described it as disjointed, you might get an inkling of where I am coming from. I wasn’t a year of stunning achievements, although it will go down as the year I paid off the mortgage on our property. It was also the year that our twice-postponed bathroom renovation project finally came together.

We are now proud owners of a totally revamped bathroom, complete with walk-in shower. The latter is an important feature, given that neither of us are getting any younger, and it certainly helps make life easier when we are rushing to get ourselves ready for work each weekday morning.

The disjointed nature of the year was primarily down to two business trips I undertook during the first half of 2019. The first one, to Cologne for the biennial International Dental Show was planned, but the second one, a visit to China, was a much more hurried affair which came about following a meeting with some colleagues, from our Japanese parent company, whilst we were at the dental show.

Both were enjoyable trips in their own right, and the opportunity to visit China was certainly not one to be missed, but two weeks out of an already busy work schedule, plus the need to fit in annual leave around other members of my department, did mean both June and August were unavailable.  Moral of tale – get in early next year!

However, despite the quite topsy-turvy nature of 2019, there were still plenty of good things to experience and enjoy. What I intend to do with this review, is follow similar headings to previous years, and see where this takes us. There is also quite a lot to get through, so I have divided this look-back into two halves.
 

Best Beer on Home Turf

Harvey’s Sussex Best. As in previous years, no beer comes close to beating  this classic beer from the “Cathedral of Lewes.”  For everyday drinking, Harvey’s Best is one of the finest examples of a full-bodied and well-hopped southern bitter, and if I could only choose one cask beer to drink for the rest of my days, this would be it. 

Vocation Brewery. This Yorkshire-based brewery have really caught my attention this year, and I have enjoyed numerous glasses of their  Pride & Joy, plus Life and Death, both at home and in a number of pubs and specialist beer bars.

Larkin’s Porter.  Strong, dark and packing in masses of flavour. Still my favourite winter beer by far, this excellent  Porter makes this cold, and often depressing time of the year, much more bearable. What’s more I treated myself to a 5 litre mini-cask to see me through the Christmas period.

Best Beers Abroad

Zwyiec Porter at the Wrega Pub in  Krakow. An excellent, dark and full-bodied Baltic-style porter, with just the right amount of residual bitterness. In short, it was a most satisfying beer, and far more enjoyable than the myriad of different “craft” offerings I sampled during my short break in Poland. 

Päffgen Kölsch. Dispensed straight from the cask, at Bierhaus en d'r Salzgass, Cologne. Päffgen are one of the smaller Kölsch brewers in Cologne, and one of the few that are still family-owned. Their beer is, in my opinion, the best Kölsch in the city.

Westmalle Dubbel. One of the more common Belgian Trappist beers, but none the worse for that. I enjoyed a glass of this excellent dark ale, served in the correct glass of course,  at the American-themed, Café Chevvy's, in Zeebrugge port, in the company of Mrs PBT’s, her sister and brother-in-law.

 Brewery Visits on Home Turf

Harvey’s Brewery 

Back in March I was fortunate to have a tour around Harvey’s Brewery, in Lewes. This renowned Sussex brewer, picked up an award for their excellent Bonfire Boy seasonal beer, at the previous autumn’s Spa Valley Railway Festival, so the company invited volunteers, who’d worked at the event, to visit the brewery, for a tour. This was followed by the award presentation plus, of course,  a generous sampling of Harvey’s beers.

  

Harvey’s legendary Head Brewer, Miles Jenner, acted as our host and conducted us around the brewery. This was probably my 5^th tour of Harvey’s and although Miles acted as guide on each previous occasion, he always has something new and interesting to say,  coupled with the odd amusing anecdote to add a bit of spice to the proceedings. 

Cellar Head Brewery

On the way back from Harvey’s, we called in at Cellar Head’s brewery and newly opened taproom, at Flimwell, East Sussex. The brewery was celebrating its 2^nd birthday, and with plenty of interesting Cellar Head beers to sample, their birthday bash was a fun event with everyone having a good time.

The whole brewery-taproom set-up, along with the al fresco drinking, reminded me of the Vanish Woods Brewery in Leesburg, VA, which I visited whilst attending the Beer Bloggers & Writer’s Conference in the United States, in August 2018.  

Brewery Visits Abroad

For the first time in several years, there were no foreign brewery visits for me to enjoy. With only two rather short foreign holidays, neither of which had any CAMRA, or other formal involvement, there wasn’t the wherewithal to organise one.

Beer Festivals

Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival 2019. 
This festival, organised jointly between West Kent CAMRA and SVR, is becoming a victim of its own success.  Recent events have been manic, especially for those working behind the bar. This is a shame for those of us who like
to engage with customers, and chat  about the various beers on offer, but is impossible when there are thirsty punters pressing against the bar, several deep, and all waiting to be served.  

You also get awkward individuals wanting a beer from the other end of the bar, which means barging past your fellow bar staff, whilst trying to remember where you’ve got to return to. Even worse are those indecisive customers asking for tasters. After they’ve had three or four, you just know they’re taking the piss!

This constant pressure, with little or no respite for staff, meant the fun had gone out of the event for me, so I didn’t offer my services at last autumn’s event. Whether I do so this year really depends on the organisers arranging proper rosters, with adequate breaks for staff. The fact we are volunteers, shouldn't mean we can be taken advantage of; a fact which CAMRA as a whole ignores at its peril!

SIBA South East Beer Festival 2019. Once again hosted by Tonbridge Juddians Rugby Club  this excellent festival is now in its 13^th year. I attended on the Friday evening, with son Matthew, and on the Saturday with Mrs PBT’s and some of her relations and friends. With good weather, good beers (in the main) and excellent company, this event continues to be a highlight in the Tonbridge social calendar.

Great British Beer Festival (GBBF). It hadn’t been my intention to go to GBBF last year, but I was persuaded to change my mind by the well-illustrated and extremely positive write-up in CAMRA’s BEER magazine. I therefore went along with the intention that this would be my make or break year.

It was a day of two halves really, the first enlivened by the excellent company of fellow beer blogger, Retired Martin. I then spent the second half of the day, after Martin had wisely departed, sitting upstairs in the gallery area with group of friends from West Kent CAMRA.

As we sat there chatting I discovered we all seemed to be suffering from beer festival fatigue. The idea of meeting up in an attractive city such as Salisbury or Winchester, was floated, as an alternative to GBBF. So rather spending money travelling to London, followed by extra cash for admittance to the festival, we could visit several pubs in the suggested locations, get to sample a number of different beers and have a decent day out.

This confirms, that for me, GBBF 2019 was definitely  a “break” rather than a “make” event.

To be continued.............................................

Ring out the old

I’m still working on my review of 2019. I keep thinking of things to add to it; a task not made easier by the return of the “man flu,” which came back with a real vengeance the day before yesterday. All joking aside, I did at one point feel like it might be actual flu, rather than just a particularly nasty cold, but that would have meant a scolding from Mrs PBT’s, telling me I should have followed her example, and gone for the flu vaccination!

I think it’s a well-known fact that when we slow down, after working flat out for much of the year, our bodies don’t always react as we think they should. So rather than be appreciative of the chance of a rest, our immune systems end up being strangely vulnerable to various infections that might be doing the rounds.

The strange thing is I haven’t actually been anywhere to have succumbed to one of these viruses; unlike the last one that caught hold of me. That happened on the second leg of the flight back from China when, after landing at Doha and waiting to change planes, the cold I’d been incubating since leaving Guangzhou, really started coming out.

At first I’d put the sore throat and blocked sinuses down to the appalling air quality in the city, but once onboard that homebound flight to Gatwick, it was pretty obvious this was something more familiar, and definitely unwanted.  Guangzhou (Canton), is a bustling and sprawling metropolis of some 14 million people.

During my time there, I’d made quiet a few journeys on the metro; an amazingly efficient rapid transit system, but a mega-busy one at the same time. There was not one journey where I managed to get a seat, so being in such close proximity, to so many people, it was hardly surprising that I picked up something nasty.

Now as I said earlier, I haven’t been anywhere locally that involved crowds of people. We don’t do the Boxing Day sales, and I haven’t been anywhere by train, so this remains as somewhat of a mystery. The really  annoying thing is that yesterday I had to turn down the chance of joining a couple of friends, on a walk which took in three excellent country pubs.

The walk started at the Swan, West Peckham – a long-established brew-pub, which turns out some pretty decent beers, before climbing up the part of the Greensand Ridge, to Dunk’s Green. The 16^th Century Kentish Rifleman is the pub there, with beers from Tonbridge, Westerham or Whitstable breweries normally available. Finally, my friends would be walking back to the Two Brewers at Hadlow, for some Harvey’s Old, followed by the bus back to Tonbridge.

Given that night falls early at this time of year, I thought the walk might be pushing it somewhat, but the duo obviously made it back to the final pub in time, as they posted some photos on WhatsApp, showing them approaching Hadlow under the shadow of a blood-red sky.

There’s been a positive side to this enforced layoff, as I’ve been able to catch up on outstanding paperwork and look ahead to the coming year. This means planning excursions and holidays plus further sections long the North Down’s Way.

Being laid up has also given my body a break from the booze, as for the past couple of days the very thought of a glass of beer has been enough to curdle my taste buds. I hadn’t been drinking that much anyway over the Christmas period, despite having accumulated enough beer to float a battleship. A fair amount of this came from family, friends and work colleagues – I guess I must be easy to buy for, but it will all keep, apart from my mini-cask of Larkin’s Porter.

Unfortunately I didn’t quite finish the latter, before being struck down with the dreaded lurgy, but I estimate there’s between one and two pints remaining.  I imagine what’s left now, will be very flat and lifeless. I don’t regret buying it, as the beer was superb, especially on days two and three after opening. Then, like all cask products exposed to the air, the beer started to slowly deteriorate as the oxygen did its work.

Tomorrow – New Year’s Day, assuming I’m feeling better, I shall drive us down to Dungeness for fish & chips at the Pilot Inn. It’s a particular favourite of Mrs PBT’s, and with son Matthew not working tomorrow, we can make it a family outing.

After that, it’s back to work on Thursday for more work on the registration – notified body front. It’s only for two days though, as on Monday I’m flying up to Bonnie Scotland, to Dundee in the Kingdom of Fife. I'm travelling with our Business Development Manager, to give a presentation to one of our biggest UK customers. So with three days away from the office it will be another short week.

So all it remains for me to do now, is to wish every one of you, a peaceful, prosperous, happy and above all healthy New Year, and I’ll catch up with you again in 2020.

Keeping it local in Sussex

I hinted in my last post that I was going down with a spot of “man flu.” As things turned out, it wasn’t that bad. I did have a rather restless night where I felt like I was burning up, but that passed and I awoke this morning feeling surprisingly refreshed.

Mrs PBT’s was feeling a little under the weather as well. I don’t know if there’s such as thing as “woman flu,” and I’m not brave enough to ask, but she felt sufficiently rough enough to postpone our planned trip to Maidstone. Instead, she asked could we perhaps go somewhere a little quieter instead?

This was fine by me, as I detest major shopping centres and the large crowds they attract, especially at this time of year, so after we bounced a few alternative suggestions back and forth, we settled on the small market town of Wadhurst, which is just over the border from us, in East Sussex.

There was a reason for my good lady wife’s suggestion, (there normally is), and that was Wadhurst contains a branch of Jempson’s  - everyone’s favourite independent grocery store and, amongst other goodies, they sell “sausage rolls to die for.” So shortly before midday we jumped into the car and set off on our cross-border trip.

We drove down the A21, pleased that the bulk of the traffic was heading in the opposite direction to ourselves, before turning off at the start of the Lamberhurst by-pass. This was a bit of nostalgia for me, as for a three year period during the mid 1980’s,  I worked in Lamberhurst for a company called Crown Chemicals.  

Even three decades ago, Crown were that rarest of beasts, in being an independently-owned pharmaceutical company specialising in veterinary products. They were under-capitalised and lacked the ability to compete with the big international players, but they’d managed to strike a canny deal with a major US animal health company. The deal licensed them to sell a hormonal implant product, designed to "assist beef cattle gain weight and improve their feed efficiency."

The product was called Ralgro, and a quick Google search confirms it is still widely used in the good old US of A. For several years Crown grew rich on the back of this rather questionable product, but instead of investing the profits incurred from its sale, into new products and new ventures, the company sat on its hands not thinking that one day Ralgro might not be around.

That day came when the European Union slapped a ban on hormone-injected beef. Now even though this was likely to have a negative affect on my job, I thought the EU was quite right in taking action. Ask yourself, would you really want to be eating beef pumped full of a compound designed to stimulate the pituitary gland; because if it works on beef cattle, what effect might it have on us humans?

Mind you, once the joker in charge of the UK government has concluded his "amazing free trade deal" with the even bigger joker on the other side of the Atlantic, you almost certainly will get the chance; even though you probably won’t be aware of it!

I digress, seeing that the writing was on the wall, Crown picked up a major grant from the Irish government, and re-located to Galway, on the west coast of Ireland. Their site in the centre of Lamberhurst was re-developed and turned into housing. We noticed the houses, which are not so new now, as we drove through the village, which is now virtually free from traffic since the opening of the by-pass in 2005.

I also noticed that the village butcher, the sweet shop and the local bank have all long closed, along with the Horse & Groom pub, halfway up Town Hill. The pub closed in 2002, and is now an Airbnb property, but the disappearance of  Lamberhurst’s largest employer must have had an adverse effect on other businesses in the village. We’re getting bogged down again, but sometimes it’s necessary to wallow in a spot of nostalgia.

Although I have driven through Wadhurst quite recently, it must be 30 years or so since I last stopped off there. Mrs PBT’s had discovered the branch of Jempson’s, whilst out for a drive with our son Matthew. I’ll be expanding more on this local company in  a while, but for now their Wadhurst outlet is more a convenience store, rather than a full-blown superstore. With free parking behind the store, and a good selection of locally sourced produce on sale, (including Old Dairy beers), and friendly old-fashioned service, it seemed genuinely popular with the town’s folk.

Village shops (I hesitate at describing Wadhurst as a town), are like village pubs in so much they are the place where all the local gossip is aired. Whilst attempting to squeeze past a group who’d stopped for a natter, we couldn't help overhearing the bad news that was being aired.
I had originally planned to share it, particularly as there was a real sense of "gallows humour" involved, but in the cold light of day, I thought this might have been rather insensitive. The story was not for our ears, and whilst the chance of those affected reading this blog, must be pretty slim, it would still be inappropriate for me to share. (If you seem me in real life, and ask me nicely, then I might be tempted to tell you, but  until such a time, my lips are sealed!)


We bought the sausage rolls and a few other things beside. On the way back I suggested stopping off at the Elephant’s Head, at the nearby hamlet of Hook Green, but Mrs PBT’s wanted to get back for lunch. A pity thought I, as there was the chance that Harvey’s Old Ale might be on sale. She did suggest going out on another occasion with the express intention of a pub lunch, so all is not yet lost.   

So what about Jempson’s, the Sussex-based company, offering locally sourced products and services? The company was founded in 1935, as a bakery business in the village of  Peasmarsh, just outside Rye. Today the business had grown to become one of the largest family owned food supermarkets in the UK, consisting of  two supermarkets, two convenience stores, six cafe’s, a pharmacy plus a petrol station.

Jempson’s pride themselves in offering shoppers the highest standards of customer service as well as some of the finest foods from around the world. According to the company website, their intention is to become the most prestigious food retailer in the UK in terms of innovation, design and fresh food excellence.

We have often called in at their Peasmarsh Superstore, on the way back from visits to Rye, and have been impressed by what is on offer there. The store was opened in January 2002 on the same site as that  chosen by the firm’s founder, George Thomas Jempson 80 years ago. Today, brothers Andrew and Stephen Jempson  run the business, having taken over from their father Harold in the early 90’s.

I am a great believer in supporting local enterprises, particularly when they offer high quality, combined with good value, and this is just one more reason why I would rather support local pubs, rather than rattle around in one of Tim’s soulless beer barns.

If you find yourself in this part of the country, you could do a lot worse than call in at a Jempson’s store. As well as those already mentioned, at Peasmarsh and Wadhurst, you will find others in Battle, Northiam and Rye.

Meanwhile, the hunt for Harvey’s Old continues!

Washed away

I don’t think I’ve ever known such a wet spell of weather. It doesn’t seem to have stopped raining for the past three months, and whilst excess precipitation doesn’t put such a dampener on things as it would during the summer months, it is still unwelcome, even at this time of year.

With eight days off from work, I had planned to get some more walking under my belt, but given the amount of rain we’ve had during recent weeks, the footpaths and fields are likely to be waterlogged or even impassable.

This is a shame, as it would have been good to have knocked off another section or two of the North Downs Way. I haven’t done any serious walking since completing the Canterbury Loop section back in September, and because of the inclement weather, my plans to strike out westward along the main branch of the trail, have suffered quite a setback.

I’m not a fair-weather walker, but whilst I don’t mind walking through the odd shower, incessant rain is another matter. Getting soaked to the skin is not my idea of fun; been there, done that, got the T-shirt, so with this in mind I will just have to be patient and wait for the arrival of spring – assuming we get a dry one, that is.

I had another reason for looking forward to a walk, and that was to get me out of the house. With Boxing Day a complete washout, I was coped up indoors for the best part of three days, so despite the beginnings of a cold, I  took a drive down into Tonbridge with Mrs PBT's to pick up some bread and milk, plus withdraw some cash.

Bad weather isn’t all bad though, as it affords time to do things indoors that you might have been putting off, not the most enjoyable way to spend time, I’ll grant, but you can devote resources to more fruitful and certainly more satisfying activities, such as planning your next day out, or even that longed for overhead’s trip.

A small selection from my Blog List

There are a few places that I’d like to knock off the bucket list this year, and I was going to do some work on this. However, by the time I'd got back, eaten a couple of left-over sausage rolls and made myself a cup of tea, the cold was starting to take hold. Instead, I decided to carry out a bit of maintenance on the blog and tidy things up a bit.

I've not done anything drastic, such as changed the appearance or background of the site, but I have given my Blog List a long-overdue revamp. This has meant quite a lot of out with the old and in with the new, particularity as there were quite a few sites that I follow that have become either moribund or have given up the ghost completely.

There are probably all sorts of reasons for this - people move on, get bored, lose interest, find something more exciting. Sometimes they sadly pass on completely, and this was the case with Richard Coldwell, whose excellent Beer Leeds website, I only started following a year ago.

So at present, six blogs have been culled from my list, including a few from the odd well-known writer. I shan't list any names, just in case there are perfectly valid reasons for them having given up blogging, but I'm pleased to report there are nine new blogs which are now gracing these pages.

That's kind of what you do at the end of a year, and with the creeping onset of "man flu," that's all I feel like doing at the moment!