You can usually tell something about a town from the quality
of its principal hotel, and when high standards are combined with longevity and
a prestigious pedigree, you know that both town and hotel are worthy of further
exploration.
The fortunes of principal hotels have waxed and waned over
the years, especially in provincial towns. I’m not going to go over the whole
decline of the stage-coach trade following the arrival of the railways
scenario, particularly as the advent of the motor car led to something of a
revival in their fortunes, but you know what I mean.
There were two hotels in the centre of Ashford – the town
where I grew up. The George and the County Hotel. When I was in the sixth form,
and not necessarily old enough to drink, the George was a popular haunt of us
youngsters. The County was much less so, being stuffy and very old-fashioned and, as far as I remember, I never set
foot in the place, or even contemplating doing so.
The irony is that whilst both establishments are still
trading, the County is now the
town’s Wetherspoon’s outlet. It no longer offers
accommodation, although I’m pleased to report that the George, which is Ashford’s oldest coaching inn, still does.
I’m digressing a little, but I wanted to demonstrate the
rise and sometimes the fall in the fortunes of provincial hotels, but before
moving on I want to tell you about how I first became interested in such
places.
Back in the early nineties, I read Charles Dickens’s immortal novel, The Pickwick Papers for the
first time. This timeless classic, with its narrative describing the adventures
of the members of the Pickwick Club, requires little in the way of introduction,
but for those unfamiliar with the book, the story recounts follows the experiences
of Mr Pickwick and his companions as they make their way by stage-coach, through the English
countryside, to a number of provincial towns, stopping off at various old coaching inns along the way.
The work is considered an accurate portrayal of these old
inns, and the characters often associated with them, and it was reading this book which first sparked my
interest in these now, largely vanished establishments which were, of course, the
forerunners to our modern hotels. I read the book for a second time around ten
years ago, and found it every bit as enjoyable as before.
It’s time now to move closer to home and to the
Rose & Crown Hotel which has
been
Tonbridge’s principal and most prestigious hotel, for the past
400 years. The
Rose & Crown was originally a
Tudor House, built during the
16th
Century, and these origins are still apparent in parts of the hotel. An
attractive brick frontage was added to the building some two hundred years
later, along with an impressive porch.
The balcony, on top of this structure, was traditionally the place from
which election results were announced, whilst the
coat of arms above the porch are
those of the
Duchess of Kent, mother to
Queen Victoria.
They commemorate frequent visits by the
Duchess and her daughter to the town.
In more recent times the hotel has been owned by a succession of different
companies, including the
Forte Group but in
2010 the business was
acquired by
R & B Hotels who carried out extensive refurbishment and
renovation of the rooms, restaurant and meeting areas, so that today it has all
the modern facilities one would expect from a hotel in the
21st Century.
The
Rose & Crown is now part of the
Best Western chain of hotels. The
hotel has always been an inn of importance and now has
56 modern bedrooms. Its various
function rooms allow it to cater for meetings, seminars, lunches, dinners and
weddings, for groups of between 8 and 80 people.
There is a decked and heated outside court yard at the rear
of the hotel, but many of the former stable buildings have either been
converted into staff accommodation, or removed to make way for car parking. I
have been to several functions at the Rose & Crown in my time, but my fondest
memories are of the quiet bar at the front of the building, back in the late
1980’s – early 1990’s, when hotel stocked a well-kept pint of Draught Bass.
Sitting there quietly, enjoying a glass or two of Bass,
whilst watching the world go by, in the street outside, was one of life’s
little pleasures, so it was a shame when the hotel’s owners altered the
arrangement and swapped everything around. Today, the interior is much more
open plan, which is a shame in some respects, but I can understand why, for
operational reasons, the hotel management have done this.
The
Rose & Crown remains a popular place today; both as somewhere to
meet and dine, but also for its original purpose of providing a bed for the
night.
When my firm’s
Japanese directors
come over for the their twice yearly visits, they insist on staying at this
attractive old inn, despite the uneven floors, because they love its old world atmosphere and charm, with its old oak beams and
Jacobean wood panelling.
On
Saturday, the
Bailey family joined with a group of friends for a meal.
I’m not sure what the official excuse was for this celebration, but the date
happened to coincide with son
Matthew’s birthday. I won’t say how old he is for
fear of embarrassing him, but he had a good time.
Our party of
12 had the
“Oak Room” at the rear of the building, to ourselves.
According to
Mrs PBT’s, who has lived in
Tonbridge all her life, this part of
the hotel was once a separate business, and traded as a lady’s hairdressers during
the 60’s & 70’s. It is sited at a slightly lower level from the main part
of the hotel.
We had a few drinks, before sitting down to enjoy a rather nice meal.
Shepherd
Neame Spitfire and
Harvey’s Sussex
Best were the cask offerings, so I naturally opted for a pint of the latter. It
was in good form, so I scored it at
3.0 NBSS however,
once the food arrived, I switched to wine.
My
sea-bream in cream sauce, with potatoes and vegetables was excellent, and
Matthew’s steak & ale pie, with chips, also looked good; especially as it
was a
“proper pie”. The meal was also a good opportunity to catch up with
friends, discuss what we’d all been up to and just generally while away a
pleasant
mid-November afternoon.
We drifted off towards the end of the afternoon; probably once all the
bottles of wine had been exhausted. Before leaving, a few of us had a chat to
the manager who had been personally looking after our group, and or reason for
doing so was because a cloud hangs over the
Rose & Crown’s future at the
moment, as I am about to explain.
Back in the summer, the hotel’s current owners placed the
Rose & Crown
on the market, with an asking price of
£3 million. None of us are privy to why
the business is up for sale, and according to the agent’s website the current
turn-over is over
£1.2 million. Whatever the reason in these straightened times
it is worrying for a town like
Tonbridge to face losing its principal hotel.
A possible clue for the sale might lie with a statement on the agent’s site,
which says,
“The business is mainly staff run with a relatively 'hands off'
owner, allowing it to appeal to a staff/management run format, but is also
suitable for a more 'hands on' owner”.
The current manager seems very much a
“hands-on” person, and is certainly very
enthusiastic. He explained he is relatively new to the
Rose & Crown, having
worked previously for a number of top-notch
London
hotels. He did tell us that the owners are extremely keen for the business to
remain a hotel, rather than being turned into apartments or suffer the
indignity of becoming an
old-people’s home, so fingers crossed, all round.
As I said at the beginning, you can judge a provincial town by its principal
hotel and for
Tonbridge to lose such a prestigious, attractive and historic old
building, would be a real tragedy.