Greyhound to re-open

Fran & Richard - the Greyhound's new owners

I mentioned in a previous post that there was some good news to share, and as fellow Tonbridgian, Greengrass hinted at, it does indeed relate to the Greyhound at Charcott.

Regular readers will remember this attractive, late-Victorian local closed back in January, and was facing an uncertain future. I am now pleased to report that local couple, Fran and Richard Gilliat-Smith have acquired the pub and are currently hard at work getting the place ready to start trading again.

Fran, of course is no stranger to local drinkers, as until recently she worked behind the bar of the Windmill, at Sevenoaks Weald. I understand that Richard is a carpenter and builder, so his skills are being put to the test, right now, sorting out the necessary improvements to the Greyhound.

Beer lovers keen to renew their acquaintance with the Greyhound, will have to wait a little longer, as quite a few improvements are necessary, following years of only basic maintenance by former owners,  Enterprise Inns. The couple’s intention is to have the pub ready for re-opening on the late May Bank Holiday; but this could slip depending on how the improvement work progresses.

I’m not sure what the Fran and Richard’s plans are for the Greyhound, but the pub will operate as a free-house and will definitely be stocking Larkin’s beer. I imagine food will play an important role, and it is reported that work is being carried out on the dining room area. I also understand they will be able to carry on leasing the garden area at the side, which is welcome news, especially with summer not far off now.

 One thing which is certainly worth reporting is, the ACV (Asset of Community Value), obtained for the pub by Charcott residents, with the support of the local West Kent CAMRA Branch, was not only instrumental in seeing off a buyer who wished to convert it to residential use, but it also helped the new owners in their price negotiations with Enterprise. Who says that ACV’s don’t work?

Like many people who live or work in the vicinity of Charcott, I am  really looking forward to the Greyhound re-opening, and wish its new owners every success with their new undertaking.

23 Trees - Citra Saison

It’s not often I get sent beers to review, so it was a pleasant surprise when a beer from the Black Isle Brewing Company arrived through the post. It was a limited edition Saison-style beer, and one with a message, but it’s only recently that I got round to drinking it.

The beer is called 23 Trees, and is a “Citra Saison”, weighing in at 6.6%. It was brewed in dedication to 23 ancient trees that were felled on land bordering Black Isle’s organic farm, where much of the barley they use for brewing is grown. The leaflet, which accompanied the beer, is reproduced below, and detail’s Black Isle’s anger at what they describe as “the irresponsible destruction” of these trees.

Now I don’t know the full story behind the tree-felling episode, but Black Isle describe themselves as the UK’s Premier Organic Brewery, so I can understand why they got a little upset over this. Their website says, “As organic brewers we pay 3 times as much for our hops and twice as much for our barley, but we believe that some things are just worth paying for!”

In response to the destruction of the trees, Black Isle have stated they will plant 200 others in their place. Good for them, as this will obviously be good for the local environment, and should  also get the point across to their chain-saw happy neighbours.

Black Isle was started in 1998 by David Gladwin, who set out to make world class beer using barley and hops grown on organic farms as nature intended, without the use of destructive chemicals. Today the brewery can produce up to 10,000 litres a day packaged in bottles, casks and kegs, with the beer shipped all over Scotland, the rest of the UK and to countries all over the world. So what of the beer itself? 

23 Trees Citra Saison 6.6%, is a pale-straw coloured beer with a distinctive citrus aroma. There are also tropical fruit notes present in both the nose and the taste. The beer pours clear and bright, with a nice fluffy head supported by plenty of carbonation. It is rich in taste, which is hardly surprising given its relative high strength.

There is certainly ample malt body to support both the flavour derived from the citrus hops and the distinctive zesty “saison” taste of this “true to style” beer. I thoroughly enjoyed this well-crafted beer, although with an ABV of 6.6%, it's definitely not a "session beer".

Now I must admit to not having known much about Black Isle prior to receiving this beer, but having looked at the brewery’s website, I am impressed by the range of diverse and interesting-looking beers in the company’s portfolio. If nothing else, them sending me this bottle has opened my eyes to what they have available, so this is a win for them, as well as for me.

Check the brewery out for yourselves, by clicking the link, here.

Changing times; changing habits

I was prompted to write this piece after posting a lengthy comment on the Pub Curmudgeon’s site. Mudge, as he is often referred to, was lamenting the decline of the pub; that much-loved, and occasionally maligned gift from these islands to the rest of the world.

Despite having a bit of a pop at beer writers for subconsciously helping to demoralise pub-going, (you need to read Mudge’s post to see what I am getting at),  the common theme running through the article was people just don’t go the pub in either the ways or the numbers they once did.

Lunchtimes and early evenings are two periods which were once popular times for people to unwind with a few drinks, but with changing times, and changing habits, pubs are likely to be much quieter now during these particular sessions.

I never was a fan of having a few pints straight after work, on the way home; preferring instead to get indoors, change out my work-clothes and then get tucked into my dinner, before any thoughts of a drink enter my head. The other reason for not stopping for a “swift one” on the way home is, there is no such thing as “a quick pint”, as  a single pint often has the habit of turning into several, but the main reason is that I have only once had the luxury of working within walking distance of my home. All other jobs I have held, including my present position, have necessitated me driving there.

Man of Kent, Tonbridge - scene of many a lunchtime pint, back in the day

Lunchtime drinking though was an entirely different matter, or at least it was three and a half decades ago, when I was a happy-go-lucky young chap, fresh with the vigour of youth and ready to take on the world. Back then it was quite normal for me to enjoy a lunchtime pint, or two, and a drink on Friday lunchtime was a popular pastime at the company I worked for. As long as you returned, more or less on time and were still steady on your feet, no-one batted an eyelid, and after two pints I still felt perfectly capable of carrying out my duties.

Although I was married with a mortgage, my other commitments weren’t particularly onerous. My then wife earned twice what I did, and I wasn’t exactly underpaid either. We were both regular pub-goers, and most evenings we could be found out for a drink in one of several Maidstone pubs; the town we lived in at the time.

Harvey's Brewery Shop - Lewes

Changing circumstances, a change in partner and the arrival of a child all conspired to curtail my pub-going activities. Starting a family is a massive drain on most couple’s finances; especially when it entail the loss of an income, but to add to the strain, not long after our son was born, the company I worked for relocated to Lewes, in East Sussex. This meant a sixty mile round trip to work, and whilst the company paid my travelling expenses for the first six months, I was soon left with having to dip into my own pocket to cover this.

Working in Lewes did have a number of attractions, the not least of which was the Harvey’s Brewery Shop. Situated in Cliffe High Street, just in front of the brewery itself, the shop offered several draught beers for customers to take away in their own containers. I found a four pint container to be sufficient and, providing it was kept in a cool place, the contents lasted over a two day period.

I became a regular visitor to the Harvey’s Shop, where I was always addressed quite politely, and properly, as "Mr Bailey"! I even received preferential treatment. I was also treated to sneak previews and tastings of new brews, or special commemorative ales. In short I was treated with that "old-fashioned" politeness and civility which is so sadly missing from much of the retail trade today.

I digress, and there’s obviously been a lot of other changes both in my life and circumstances, as well as with society in general, since those days back in the early 1990’s. Fast forward to 2017 and state retirement age is now just four years away. With our son now in his mid-twenties, and just a couple of years left on the mortgage, my domestic responsibilities are certainly far less onerous, than they once were, but work-wise it’s a different matter.

At the start of my career I was a humble laboratory technician, with a hands-on approach, and apart from doing my job to the best of my ability, little else in way of responsibility or commitment to the company. Now I head up a busy department of four people, and am responsible for ensuring the quality of my company’s products throughout all stages of the supply and manufacturing chains, and then going forward into the marketplace.

I am fortunate in so far that my company does not operate a “no drinking” policy at lunchtimes but, as I’m sure I’ve referred to previously on this blog, anything more than a pint at lunchtime, definitely impacts on my work output in the afternoon. I feel sleepy, "post lunchtime walk", at the best of times, so a couple of pints of beer would, more than likely, see me slumped over my desk. This is obviously not the way companies would wish their employees to behave, and without sounding too sanctimonious over this, I certainly don’t want to carry on in this manner either.

The thing is that whilst my pub-going habits may have changed, and the amount I drink is quite a bit less than it was back in the early 1980’s, pubs too have changed and so has society and society’s attitudes. The “wet-led” pubs which were once so common, have now largely vanished. Pubs have had to up their game in order to survive, and offer more in the way of food, or an unusual selection of beers.

Attracting the food trade is of paramount importance, particularly for rural pubs, where the lack of viable public transport links often means people have to drive to these pubs. Whereas people may have once turned a blind eye to “drinking and driving”, today it is socially unacceptable. Country pubs therefore need to offer something more than the opportunity of downing a few pints, in order to stay in business. Some have faced criticism by placing too much emphasis on the food trade, and where a pub starts to resemble a restaurant, and casual drinkers are made to feel unwelcome, this criticism is justified. But there is a happy medium, as many successful country pubs are able to demonstrate.

Town pubs do have more of an opportunity to go after the beer lover, and here again there are many successful examples of pubs which specialise in offering a wide range of different varieties of beer. Unfortunately there are still far too many urban pubs content to blindly follow the PubCo model of Sky Sports, karaoke, quiz evenings and the occasional themed night.

I appreciate such places serve a purpose, but the preponderance of pubs locally, following this tired old formula is one of the main reasons I rarely go for a drink in Tonbridge these days; despite the improvement in my financial circumstances.

There are other reasons, of course, for the decline in pub-going and in the number of pubs. Curmudgeon and others, keep citing the smoking ban, which is now approaching its 10^th anniversary. I have mixed views on the subject, as I feel that rather than an out and out ban, pubs which still had multiple rooms, should have been allowed to set one aside specifically for the use of smokers. This would have worked, especially with the modern and highly efficient smoke extractors which were available at the time.

Although the subject still provokes much debate, it is probably fair to say that with the numbers of smokers continuing to decline, this factor is not as relevant ten years on from the introduction of the ban on smoking indoors in public places. There has also been a general increase in health-related matters, and people are much more careful in taking care of themselves. Exercise, healthy eating and nutrition in general contribute to an increase in well-being, and providing they are driven by voluntary factors, rather than pushed down people’s throats by a “Nanny State”, then they have to be recognised as beneficial for the population at large.

This isn’t me getting all pious and sanctimonious; this is just common sense. I still enjoy a beer most nights and given the right pub, and the right company, can still put away a fair few pints over the course of an evening. I am also over-weight, despite taking regular exercise, so there is room for improvement.

But keeping things in moderation and trying to strike a balance between enjoyment and staying healthy, has to be the way forward; not just for me but for an increasing number of the population. If this approach has been responsible for the decline of the great British Pub, then I make no apologies for my part in it. Instead I see a healthy future for those pubs which have managed to adapt and which offer something a little different from bland international “brands”, produced on an industrial basis and pumped out by the gallon in characterless and soul-less bars but, as with everything, that’s just my opinion!

Playing catch-up

Who's been a busy boy?

Being out of the country for the best part of a week, put me behind on a number of fronts, so it’s been a busy weekend catching up on things home, garden and transport related. I’ve had a major sort-out of my wardrobe, mainly getting rid of clothes which no longer fit. I’ve also erected and painted some new garden furniture and had the brakes sorted out on my car (new pads and discs, front and back), ahead of next week’s impending MOT.

So not much time for beer drinking, or pub-going. I did call in at our local JDW, but that was breakfast. In my haste I forgot to pick up a programme for their Spring Beer Festival, which I’ve just realised finished today!

I managed just one pub visit last week, and that was an evening meal with a guest from our Japanese parent company. The Chaser, at Shipbourne, a picturesque village a few miles to the north of Tonbridge, was expectantly quiet for a  Monday evening, but there were a handful of diners in the conservatory, where we were sitting. The Old Dairy Red Top was in good form, but unfortunately I was driving, so my intake was limited. I also didn’t select the best option from the menu; but that’s down to me, rather than the pub.

There are a couple of very welcome “good news” stories on the local pub front, which are embargoed until later in the week; but they are proof that it is not all doom and gloom in the pub trade.

Finally, the welcome spring sunshine, especially today, should have provided the perfect opportunity to get out and about exploring the beautiful Kent countryside. I am sure that many people did just that, and I imagine local pubs saw a much needed boost in trade. I shall be doing the same, as soon as my workload allows. I will keep you posted.

Letting the train take the strain

St Pancras station - starting point for international train travel

After my trip to Cologne the other week, I can highly recommend Eurostar as a means of travelling between the UK and northern Germany. My colleagues and I used this option for our outward and return journeys to the Rhineland for the trade show, and found it comfortable, convenient and above all relaxing.

My journey began at Ebbsfleet International; a rather windswept and God-forsaken part of north Kent, close to the River Thames, but handily placed for those of us living in west Kent. I met my colleague from the sales department, at the station, and after passing through security, and passport control, we sat down in the departure lounge to await our train. Check-in times are 30 minutes in advance of departure at Ebbsfleet, but in reality, this could be reduced still further, particularly during off-peak times.

A rather windswept Ebbsfleet International

After boarding the train, we settled down to enjoy the fast and comfortable journey to Brussels. The company had allowed us to book Standard Premier Class which, as its name suggests, is a little more up-market than Standard. There was a meal included in the price, along with wider seats, folding tables, plus power sockets for those wishing to use a laptop.

Had I been spending my own money, then I would definitely have gone steerage, as the meal made airline catering look positively desirable! What’s more there was exactly the same choice of two (cold) meals on the return journey. The extra leg, and elbow room was definitely welcome though, and as we sped across the Medway Viaduct, and then down towards east Kent and the Channel Tunnel, I was really enjoying the journey.

Once through the tunnel, and after a brief stop to pick up passengers at Calais Frethun,  the train headed off, gathering speed as we traversed northern France. The landscape is fairly flat here; ideal tank country in fact and for the history buffs amongst us it is easy to turn the clock back 77 years, and imagine Rommel’s Panzer divisions sweeping all before them in their dash towards the Channel coast.

Thalys train at Brussels Midi

Thankfully we live in far more peaceful times now, and before long we had reached Lille Europe; our  final stop  before the borderless crossing into Belgium. Then, just one hour and fifty-two minutes after leaving Ebbsfleet, our train was pulling in to Brussels Midi station.

We were met on the station concourse by another colleague, who had travelled out on an earlier train, but had stopped off in Brussels for a spot of sight-seeing. I think she was understandably disappointed by the Manneken pis, arguably Brussels’s most famous, but instantly forgettable attractions; although she did manage to enjoy some chocolate and a few waffles.

There was a stop-over of an hour and 20 minutes in the Belgian capital; just time for a coffee, before finding our way to the platforms where the Thalys International trains depart. The Thalys is a service operated jointly between the Belgian, Dutch, French and German railways, along two different routes; one running from Paris Nord to Amsterdam, and the other running from Paris to Dortmund, via Cologne.

On-board the Thalys train

Our train pulled in on time, and after boarding and stowing our luggage, we found our seats and settled down to enjoy the next leg of the journey. For some reason, booking Standard Premier Class from the UK, meant we were allocated seats in first class accommodation on the Thalys. We weren’t complaining and although I thankfully avoided the rather strange-looking snack offered, I was glad of the coffee. It took a while for the train to build up speed, and it wasn’t until we had cleared the Brussels suburbs, that the driver was able to put his foot down.

There were two stops prior to Cologne; the Belgian city of Liege, and Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle in French), just across the border into Germany. It was dark by the time we arrived in Cologne, but fortunately it was only a five minute walk from the main station to our hotel, where the advanced members of our party were waiting for us in the lobby.

The return journey, early on Friday evening, was pretty much the outward journey in reverse, although as it was still daylight when we left Cologne, we were able to see the countryside in the section through northern Germany and on into Belgium. 

I think it was retiredmartin, who asked about the beer selection on Eurostar trains. I didn’t venture into the buffet car, so I can’t really advise on what is available. On the outward journey I was offered a small bottle of wine with my meal, but when I asked if beer was available instead, the waitress had pulled out a small can of Stella from the refrigerated trolley, and cracked it open before I had the chance to say I would stick with the wine. It did make me realise though, just what a bland beer Stella is.

Homeward bound

Eurostar, of course, also operate services to Paris and Euro-Disney, and also link to other destinations further into France such as Avignon and Bordeaux, via the French TGV network. These long-distance, international trains really are a most civilised way to travel, and with their short check-in times, less stringent security checks, plus the fact they run into the heart of the cities they serve, means they not only beat air travel in terms of convenience and comfort, but they are also quite competitive in terms of price, especially when you factor in the cost of  airport parking.

There is also far less of the herding, or the route marches which accompany air travel; or the mad scramble to board and the waiting to disembark. I can thoroughly recommend this civilised and stress-free means of travel to the continent.

Three rural pubs on foot

The Sunday before last was the perfect day for a walk out in the early spring Kent countryside. A group of us had been planning a hike for some time, and after agreeing a mutually acceptable date, we decided to attempt a quite ambitious itinerary with a walk which would take in three quite isolated country pubs, situated on high ground to the south and west of Penshurst.

After several weeks of dry weather, the going underfoot was guaranteed to be firm; ideal for walking in fact but, as is often the case at this time of year, there was a cold wind blowing. Undeterred three of us set off from Tonbridge, by train, travelling just the one stop to Leigh station, where we met up with the fourth member of our party who lives in the village.

Penshurst Place - rear view

Once out of the station, we walked along a thankfully short section of a rather narrow road, before, before turning off towards the back of the Penshurst Place estate. After a steady climb, we were rewarded by views across the Medway Valley, with the 14th Century pile that is Penshurst Place below us. This was the first time I have walked round the back of the house, as normally I would follow the cycle path which runs the other side of the big house, so I stopped a couple of times to take some photos.

Old mill-pond

After exiting via the churchyard, we found ourselves in Penshurst village virtually opposite the imposing Leicester Arms pub. We continued through this picturesque village, before taking a lane leading off to the right. This was the beginning of our climb out of the Medway Valley, and I have to say it was a pleasing walk through some very fine looking countryside. We made a slight detour to take a look at an old watermill, sited next to a stream which had been dammed, allowing the water to flow down a narrow channel in order to power a long vanished water-wheel. The former mill and the surrounding oast houses have all now been turned into some very desirable residences for those who can afford such places. In fact posh-looking rustic properties proved to be regular features throughout the duration of our walk.

Interior - Bottle House

Eventually we reached Smart’s Hill; an isolated and quite spread-out hamlet where we found ourselves at the Bottle House, which is the higher of the settlement’s two pubs. The Bottle House looks like it was once a row of cottages and this is indeed the case. The cottages date back to the late 16^th Century, but were knocked through to form the present pub, quite a few years ago. Nowadays the Bottle House is very much a food-oriented establishment, but much to our delight it still caters for walkers.

Bottle House - Smart's Hill

We were met at the pub, by our friends Jon and Claire, who had driven over from Hadlow to meet up with us and to enjoy a meal there. Fortunately they had managed to grab a table, as not long after our arrival, the pub really began filling up, both with families out for a spot of Sunday lunch, and with groups of walkers like us. The latter had to make do with sitting outside, but we were nice and cosy and out of the wind, indoors.

Spotted Dog - Smart's Hill

The Bottle House had two cask beers on; Larkin’s Traditional and Westerham Spirit of Kent. Unfortunately the latter beer was not up to scratch so the two of us who had ordered it swapped it for Larkin’s Trad. We decided to just have the one beer there, before walking down the hill to the Spotted Dog; Smart’s Hill’s other pub. It was here that Claire departed; leaving husband Jon to don his walking boots and accompany us on the rest of the walk.

The Spotted Dog is a lovely old pub which I have written about several times before. It clings to the side of the hill over-looking the Medway Valley, in one of the most picturesque setting imaginable. It has been a pub for many years and has had its share of ups and downs. It is definitely on the up at present, and like on my previous visit, back in January was crowded with diners enjoying their Sunday lunch.

We knew we would have to sit outside, and for that reason decided we would only stay for the one pint, but the sight and, as it subsequently proved, the quality of the Harvey’s XXXX Old Ale, was sufficient to persuade us other wise. It is unusual to see this excellent dark ale on sale so late in the season, and as it is a favourite beer of many of us, we needed little persuading to stay for a second pint.

The terrace at the front of the pub where we deposited ourselves was fortunately sheltered form the wind, and as if to add to our sense of well-being the sun even broke through on a couple of occasions. We all thoroughly enjoyed the Old Ale, and although one member of our party wanted to stay for a third, we persuaded him otherwise, as the rest of us were keen to visit the Rock; the third pub on our itinerary, and one which has recently changed hands.

We re-traced our steps back up towards the Bottle House, turning into the lane which runs in front of the pub. We then skirted a very expensive looking property, complete with a swimming pool in the garden. At this stage we were right on top of a ridge, at probably one of the highest points of our journey. It therefore seemed a shame as the path began to descend, taking us across the road we had walked up earlier and down into a valley, flanked on one side by woodland.

Spring flowers

From then on it was a question of up hill and down dale, as we headed roughly northwards towards the hamlet of Chiddingstone Hoath and the Rock Inn. I must say that this leg of the journey took quite a lot longer than I had originally anticipated, but the attractive countryside, and the equally attractive properties we passed en route, made this extra walking all the more worthwhile.

It’s at least a couple of years since I last set foot inside the Rock; a real basic country pub, which started life as a drovers’ inn. My companions and I were aware that it had changed owners at the beginning of January, but as we knew that the new incumbents had previously run the highly successful Huntsman at Eridge, we knew the Rock would be in capable hands.

Rock - Chiddingstone Hoath

We didn’t really get the chance to find out, as when we found the pub absolutely rammed when we arrived. We soon discovered that a local resident had died recently, and the pub was holding a wake in his honour. We managed to squeeze our way through to the bar, avoiding stepping over the large number of dogs hanging around their owners feet.

To our delight, there were three Larkin’s beers available; Traditional, Pale and, rather surprisingly in view of the season, the brewery’s Green Hop Ale. Unfortunately the latter ran out shortly before I was served, although I am pleased to report that the Pale was excellent. Pale is a relatively new comer to the Larkin’s portfolio, and at 4.0% it is both stronger than the more common Traditional, and also more strongly hopped.

Welcome sign at the Rock

Given the crowded nature of the pub, we decided to take our drinks outside, despite the combined effect of the drop in temperature and the increase in the wind. It was here that we noticed the first of several alterations that the new owners had made, as some rustic, bench-style seating has been installed at the front of the pub, adjacent to the entrance. We also had a look around the back of the pub, where the formerly little-used garden is in the process of being transformed into an attractive and sheltered outdoor drinking area. A new patio has already been laid, and the centre area has been levelled off ready for new turf to be laid. I understand that improvements are being made to the kitchen as well.

We got chatting to a few of the locals, including Guy who works for Larkin’s, handling both their sales and office work. The consensus seems to be that the new owners have been a hit with the Rock’s regulars, and that apart from the aforementioned improvements, there a re no plans to alter the essential character of the pub in any way.

This is good news, as the Rock’s bare brick floor, its large wood-burning stove and the unusual “Ringing the Bull” game, are part and parcel of what gives this pub its unique character. The locals, of course, along with their dogs, also contribute much as well, and they are a real mix of proper country folk along with perhaps some of the more moneyed folk who live locally, but enjoy  letting their hair down.

Much as though we would have liked to stay for another pint (the Pale was exceptionally good), the trains back to Tonbridge only run hourly. The fact that it would take at least 40 minutes to walk back to the nearest station, at Chiddingstone Causeway, meant that some careful planning was required and decisions to be made.

We took the sensible option which was to drink up and head for the station, as to have waited for the next train would mean walking back in the dark; not a good idea when the final section of the journey would be across country. Fortunately the route was nearly all down hill and fortunate too that I work at Chiddingstone Causeway and know the surrounding countryside quite well, due to my regular lunchtime walks. Even so we only had five minutes to spare before the train arrived.

Back in Tonbridge I still had an uphill walk of just under a mile, from the station to my house. I had been tracking our walk by means of an App on my phone, and this combined with the walk down to the station and back, added up to a 10 mile hike. I was certainly glad to take my boots off when I arrived home, and was also glad of the rather tasty paella my wife had cooked for our tea.

So quite an ambitious walk through some exceptional countryside, and three excellent rural pubs visited. The two pubs at Smart’s Hill are obvious food destination pubs, so it was hardly surprising to find them both busy. Sunday lunchtime might not have been the ideal time for four casual drinkers to visit, but the day fitted in well with what other commitments we all might have had. The Rock is a law unto itself, as whilst it does serve food it really is a place to enjoy some excellent, locally-brewed beers in the company of some characterful locals. Ideally I would like to do the walk again, but during the middle of the week, when things are likely to be quieter, and there would be a better chance of experiencing the true character of these three rural gems.

Five days in Cologne

To all those who think that a week away helping to staff your company’s stand at a trade fair, is a bit of a jolly, please think again. I’m not after sympathy, because I thoroughly enjoyed the last five days in Cologne, but it was hard work and, for those of us not used to standing for long periods, gruelling on the feet.

The International Dental Show (IDS), is the largest event in the world which is dedicated to dentistry. It takes place every two years, and the last show (2015), attracted over 138,000 visitors. I would imagine there were even more people attending this year’s show, but the official figures are yet to be released.

The show takes place at Köln Messe; a large complex of inter-linked exhibition halls, on the eastern bank of the River Rhine. My four colleagues and I stayed at a family-run hotel which is just five minutes walk from Cologne’s main station. Our company has used this particular hotel for the past four shows, so the owners know us pretty well, and we have a good relationship with them.

We chose the hotel originally, for its convenient location, and the fact that a brisk 30 minute walk, past the station and across the Rhine via the footway which runs parallel to the railway over the river (Hohenzollernbrücke), sees us at Köln Messe, and at our stand in the largest of the six halls used for the exhibition. Of course, it is the same route march back, and after a nine hour day spent on one’s feet, that is the last thing most people  want.

There is actually an alternative, because the IDS Exhibitors Pass  allows free travel on the Cologne Public Transport Network to the exhibition, but I was the only member of our party to take advantage of this. I normally enjoy a walk, and virtually every lunchtime you will find me out taking the air, whilst strolling through the lovely Kent countryside, but last week in Cologne  I made the fatal flaw of  wearing a new, smart pair of shoes that I’d bought especially for the show, but which hadn’t been broken in.

Ouch! I soon had two painful blisters; one on each heel, just below my Achilles’. Serves me right in a way, but hey-ho that’s enough about me. The point I am trying to make was there was very little free time in which to explore and enjoy all that Cologne has to offer. Apart from Monday, when we arrived in the city, the rest of the evenings were spent either entertaining customers, being entertained at a big party hosted by our parent company, or doing our bit for the UK by attending an event hosted by the Department of Overseas Trade.

There was plenty of Kölsch available at these events, but my previously stated desire to visit Päffgen;  in my opinion, Cologne’s best Kölsch outlet, didn’t even make it off the starting grid. The only traditional pub-cum-brew-house outlet we visited was Früh am Dom; a deceptively large brew-house within sight of Cologne’s vast and impressive cathedral, or Dom. Our original choice of Gaffel am Dom; another similar outlet, closer to the station, was packed out. As one of my colleagues pointed out, there was a football “friendly” between Germany and England that night, but with the somewhat predictable score, I am not sure that was the reason for Gaffel’s popularity.

Instead it was the sheer volumes of people from the Dental Show who were in town that evening in search of some Teutonic hospitality, which was the real reason why we were unable to get a table. We were beginning to think the same thing about  Früh, as we descended further and further into the bowels of this well-know brew-house, when all of a sudden we spied a able large enough for the five of us, and made a grab for it.

I have my Polish colleague to thank for her decision to go for the full-on German experience that night, after the boss allowed her to choose the type of food we should go for. On the previous two evenings we had visited an Argentinean steakhouse and an Italian restaurant, and whilst they were both very good, it seemed a shame to be in Cologne without sampling a little of the local culture and cuisine.

I had been to Früh am Dom on a previous visit to the city, but only for a few quick glasses of Kölsch, so it was good to be sitting at a table, at the far end of the bottom-most beer cellar, enjoying a few glasses of the excellent beer which is still brewed on the premises. Now I’m sure most people know Kölsch is served in small, plain cylindrical glasses, which typically hold just 20 cl of beer; although some outlets will use 30 cl versions. There is a reason for this, as my colleague discovered when she told the waiter she would make her third glass last.

The waiter told her, quite firmly, that Kölsch is a beer designed to be drunk fresh. Leaving a newly poured glass standing for any length of time allows the beer’s condition to dissipate is not conducive to enjoying it at its best; hence the small  glasses. I’m not sure my colleague appreciated this, as she later switched to wine, but the rest of us did. To ensure customers have a fresh glass of beer for as long as they wish to continue drinking, the waiters, who appear to always be male, carry round a circular tray known as a Kranz, which has inserts designed to accommodate up to a dozen glasses, or Stangen.

Kölsch waiters are known as Köbes (a word derived from “Jakobus”), and wear distinctive blue aprons. They have a reputation for being a bit gruff, but our waiter was the total opposite and couldn’t have been more helpful, or more friendly. Food-wise several of us opted for a Mälzerschnitzel; basically a pork escalope coated in breadcrumbs. According to my Polish colleague, Schnitzels are popular in Poland as well, which may partially explain her choice of restaurant. There was an accompanying dish of  Savoy cabbage in cream, mixed with boiled potatoes, which went really well with the meat.

We had around five glasses each of Kölsch, which  equates to a litre. At €1.80 a glass it works out quite expensive, and makes the €7.80 we paid for a litre of beer in the Hofbräuhaus, on our recent trip to Munich, look quite reasonable.

So that was it really so far as a night in an authentic Cologne pub was concerned. I did get to sink a few glasses of Gaffel Kölsch in our hotel and the two other restaurants we ate at, along with Sion Kölsch which seemed to be the default brand at Köln Messe. As I said in my previous post, I will be returning for a fleeting visit to the city in May, as part of a group trip to Düsseldorf. We have a tour booked of the Sünner Brewery, who are independently owned.

So despite appearances to the contrary, our trip was definitely not a jolly, but was nevertheless an enjoyable experience. In summary, I can highly recommend a visit to Cologne; as long as you pick a time when there are no large exhibitions taking place.