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Part of the Connoisseur's Choice range |
My recent critique on Doom Bar whilst chronicling the rise
of Britain’s top selling cask ale, was probably more than a little unfair on Doom
Bar’s creator; Sharp’s of Rock in Cornwall. Hopefully the piece which follows
will help set the record straight.
Maybe it’s a peculiarly English thing to knock the success
of others, but my recent
post about Doom Bar was more about the way this
inoffensive but perfectly drinkable beer has spread inexorably, like the
“red
weed” in the
“War of the Worlds” across the nation’s bars, rather than a criticism of the brewery which spawned it.
All power then to Sharp’s elbow for coming from nowhere to
create the UK’s
No.1 best selling cask ale in the space of less than 20 years. Despite the
sniping and ridicule from beer connoisseurs and writers, including me in my
recent post, it has to be said that many of Sharp’s other beers are extremely
good, and included amongst them are some real classics.
Stuart Howe, the company’s Head of Craft Brewing and
Innovation, has a reputation which is internationally acclaimed. Stuart has
been involved with Sharp’s since 2002, swapping a career in engineering for the
life of a brewer. His goal remains to make great beers which appeal to true
connoisseurs but at the same time are accessible to the average drinker.
Returning to Sharp’s beers; I have tried
Cornish Coaster, which at 3.6% ABV is the
weakest beer in the company’s portfolio, but I have never come across the 4.4% ABV
Own, or the 5.0% ABV Special. I also note
from the company’s website that Sharp’s brew a 5.2% ABV
Cornish Pilsner, which they claim is inspired by the great Pilsner beers from the Czech Republic. Some 30 outlets in
London are listed as stocking this "pale straw beer which is
fermented with a genuine Czech yeast then lagered on a bed of Saaz hops to
create stunning, zesty herbal notes and a delicious clean, citrus flavour."
Sharp’s also produce some highly respected bottled beers. These
include the attractively packaged Atlantic Pale Ale, 4.5% ABV
and Wolf Rock Red IPA 4.8%. Also not
forgotten are Chalky’s Bite, produced in collaboration with Rick Stein, plus
the lesser known Chalky’s Bark. Pride of place though surely goes to the Sharp’s
Connoisseurs Choice range.
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Beers for the real Connoisseur |
There are nine stunning beers in the range, each one
numbered from 1 to 9. The only one I’ve tried is the amazing No. 1 Quadrupel
Ale. Brewed with four malts, four hops, four yeasts and four fermentations; the
result is a beer which transcends beer styles, a unique fusion of a Quadrupel,
a strong dark ale and a barley wine that thinks it's a port. There are also
three Single Brew Reserves, numbered 2, 4 & 8, with each representing the
years 2011, 2012 and 2013 respectively. The thinking behind these is that each
Single Brew Reserve profiles the best hops from the year it was brewed.
Completing the range is the No. 3 Honey Spice Tripel, the
No. 5 Spice Red, the No. 6 Dubbel Coffee Stout, No. 7 Honey Spice IPA and the
No.9 Six Vintage Blend. The latter is, as its name suggests, a blend of several
beers, including a Trappist Dubbel, a sweet barley wine, a Quadrupel fermented
with yeast from a world renowned Trappist brewery, a honey wheat beer which has
been naturally soured by lactic acid and finally a US dry-hopped double IPA.
The company claim that this blend of aged beers represents the evolution of
brewing at Sharp’s.
This all sound pretty good and a far cry from the dreaded
Doom Bar. However, let’s not forget that without the success of this ubiquitous
best seller, Sharp’s would probably not be able to afford the luxury of brewing
the Connoisseurs Choice range. Credit should also be given to new owners Molson
Coors, who have not only invested heavily in the brewery at Rock but have given
the management team there a free hand to develop these sorts of beers. It’s
also a pretty safe bet that Molson Coors will have provided technical expertise
and support to Stuart Howe and his team.
So next time you see a pump on the bar dispensing Doom Bar, think
that in its own way it is helping one of the country’s most respected brewer to
turn out some truly great and world-beating beers.