Beer-related travel, at home and abroad, exploring and indulging my passion for beer.
Friday 8 September 2017
The only way is up!
According to the recently published Good Pub Guide 2018 (not to be confused with CAMRA’s Good beer Guide), London is no longer the most expensive place to buy a pint. For the first time, Surrey has overtaken the capital as the most expensive area of the country, with the average pint costing £4.40. This is 20p more than what they would expect to pay for a beer in London. Apparently, this is the only time since the Good Pub Guide first appeared, in 1982 that the average price in the capital has not been the highest in Britain.
By way of contrast, Herefordshire and Yorkshire have the cheapest beer, with a pint costing just £3.31. Other cheaper counties where drinkers have a reason celebrate, include Shropshire at £3.33 a pint, Derbyshire at £3.36 and Cumbria and Worcestershire, both at £3.38.
The difference in price for a pint of beer is now more than £1 across the country, with the average glass costing £3.60 - up by 13p on 2016’s prices. I haven’t seen any figures for Kent, but in neighbouring Sussex, drinkers can expect to pay an average of £3.82, while Hertfordshire comes in at £3.81.
Whilst the figures are broadly indicative of differing prices across the country, they should be viewed with a little caution, as there are many factors which determine average prices. Not least amongst these are variations in earnings in different parts of the country and that favourite topic of conversation at middle-class dinner parties; house prices.
Some might argue that this story was nothing more than a cynical publicity stunt to promote the Good Pub Guide ahead of its launch. The fact that this guide has hit the bookshelves a week before the official launch of CAMRA’s own Good Beer Guide, might lend a grain of truth to this idea, but I’ve no doubt the Campaign for Real Ale will have a few good publicity stories of its own, come September 14th.
Whatever your take though, the continuing upward creep of the price of a pint is surely a concern for all those who appreciate good beer in good pubs; and if you happen to live in Surrey do you just grin and bear it, do you move to a cheaper area, or do you start brewing your own?
Tuesday 5 September 2017
A walk in the park
I would like to share one of my favourite places with you; a
place where I really feel good and at peace with the world. That place is the
Englischer Garten (English Garden)
in Munich and it is the largest urban park
in Germany, and
one of the most pleasant centrally-located green spaces of any city in the
world. The name Englischer Garten refers
to its informal “English-style” of landscaping; a form of outdoor design which
became popular in England
from the mid-18th to the early 19th Centuries.
Despite its name, the Englischer Garten was conceived by an
American called Benjamin Thompson. Thompson had sided with the British during the
American War of Independence, and had
been forced to flee his homeland when the war ended. He ended up in the service of Prince
Karl Theodor, the recently appointed Elector of Bavaria, who was keen to carry
out improvements to his new home city. This was partly to court favour with
his new subjects thereby avoiding the fate of his contemporary, Louis XVI of France.
Theodor commissioned Thompson to come up with ideas that would endear him to
the people of Munich, in order to
head off any thoughts of rebellion they might harbour.
Thompson worked on a number of projects, but his best idea was in persuading
the prince to set aside a portion of the Royal Game Reserve on the outskirts of
Munich, along with an area of swamp
along side the banks of the River Isar. The swamp was to be drained and the
whole area developed into a large public park. The site was landscaped and laid
out in the natural English style, rather than the more formal French style of
landscaping. Although the park was Thompson’s idea, it was designed and laid
out by the Royal Gardener, Ludwig von Sckell and the man who was to become
Thompson’s successor, Baron von Werneck. It is considered a prime example of a
classical landscape park.
The Englischer Garten was officially opened in 1792, and was
an immediate success with the local population. The Prince awarded Thompson the
title Count von Rumford and the Bavarians even named a soup after him,
(Rumsfordsuppe). In 1836, a mock Greek temple, called the Monopteros, was built on an
artificial hill.
Today the park occupies an area of 922 acres (373 hectares),
and is three miles long and just over half a mile across at its widest point.
There are three streams flowing through it, in addition to the Isar which forms
the eastern boundary of the park. On hot summer days it seems as though half of
Munich has decamped here to soak up
the sun, jog or cycle along its many paths, or to bathe in the streams.
As I said earlier, I fell in love with the place during my
first trip to Munich. This was a
short visit in the summer of 2005, and was a welcome and much needed break from
the pressures of running a busy off-licence, which was open seven days a week.
I packed quite a lot into my three day stay, but it was on my first full day in
the city that I found my way to the Englischer Garten and was delighted with what
I found.
The other great delights that the park has to offer are its
beer gardens, of which there are several. Probably the best known is the
Chinesischer Turm, so-called because the 7,000 odd seats are arranged in front
of a 50 foot, multi-tiered, wooden pagoda. This structure acts as the stage for
a Bavarian oom-pah band on weekend afternoons. All Munich
life seems to gather here, and it is a fascinating place to spend a summer’s
afternoon. The beer is from Hofbräu, one of Munich’s,
and one of my favourite breweries.
Back in 2005, the Chinesischer Turm provided my first experience of a German beer
garden, and the rituals involved with the buying beer and food at the
self-service kiosks. It was also just really good, sitting at one of the wooden
benches, enjoying a nice cool mug of beer and people watching. Beer gardens are
great levellers, and people of all ages and from all walks of life are all
equal there.
A bit further into the park is Seehaus im Englischen Garten , which
overlooks the idyllic Kleinhesselohe Lake.
Boats can be hired from the nearby boat-house, and are an ideal way of working
up a thirst prior to visiting the beer garden. The beer here is from Paulaner,
one of Munich’s largest breweries. There
are two other beer gardens slightly to the north of the Kleinhesselohe
Lake. They are Osterwald Garten (
Spatenbräu) and Hirschau (Löwenbräu ). Three years ago, on my last summer visit
to Munich, I finally managed to visit
these two establishments as well.
On that particular trip we also visited the Chinesischer
Turm twice. Our first visit, which was on a Friday evening, found the place
heaving. Many people had just finished work and were starting to wind down for
the weekend. Things were a little more relaxed on our second visit, which was
early in the afternoon, but it was a baking hot day and we were glad to find a
shady spot under one of the many chestnut trees. As we wandered through the
Englischer Garten that day, people were pick-nicking, bathing in the streams or
just soaking up the sun (some completely naked!). Others were cycling, walking
their dogs or strolling through the grounds. At the southern entrance to the
park, some hardy souls were surfing in the rapids where the streams converge.
Of course Munich
is much more than just the Englischer Garten, and the city is well worth a
visit in its own right. Not only is it Germany’s
third largest city, it is the city where most Germans say they would like to
live. Munich is sometimes described
as “Italy’s
northernmost city”, and the city’s architecture and relaxed lifestyle certainly
match this description. The Alps are only 30 miles away
and there are numerous lakes and picturesque villages that are just a short
drive away.
Munich though is
also a city of culture. For over 900 years it was the capital of Bavaria;
once a proud and independent kingdom, and a place which still describes itself
as the “Free State of Bavaria”. Over the course of this period Bavaria’s
ruler’s amassed treasures, collected fine works of art and constructed
magnificent palaces and castles in which to house and display their
collections. It is also a beery centre of culture, and can justifiably claim to
be the “Beer Capital of the World”.
Go there and enjoy yourself, but when you do, make certain
to spend some time in the Englischer
Garten.
Sunday 3 September 2017
Fleur de Lis - Leigh
I’ve said it before (probably several times), and I’ll say
it again, but in the quest for that
perfect pint in the perfect pub, it’s often all too easy to overlook what is
right in front of you. I realised this today when I decided to get my bike out
and go for a ride.
On a whim, I decided to make for the Fleur de Lis pub, which
is situated in the village of Leigh,
just a few miles to the west of Tonbridge. I drive past the Fleur everyday, on
my way home from work, and until I altered my route into work in the morning, I used to drive
past it on the way in as well.
It is an attractive mid 19th Century building
sited a short distance from the village centre, on the junction of the road
which leads down to the station. Like much of Leigh the Fleur is built in a
particular style, and this is due to the influence of two wealthy families who
constructed many of the distinctive buildings present today. The stately pile of Hall Place, is the
best known, but there are others which include the East and Old Lodges, Forge
Square and the
School Master's House.
The Fleur De Lis was originally built as cottages in 1855,
by Thomas Baily; one of the wealthy benefactors referred to above. It was
bought by, Bartrum and Company, in 1870, who were a local brewery, based in
Tonbridge. When I first became acquainted with the area, the Fleur was a
Courage pub, but today it is owned by Greene King. Since the closure of the Bat
& Ball, several years ago, the Fleur De Lis is now the only pub in Leigh
itself; although the Plough Inn is located to the east of the village in Powder
Mill Lane.
Have bike, will travel |
I can’t honestly remember the last time I had set foot in the Fleur, although I
was obviously aware that it had undergone some substantial renovations and
alterations several years ago. It was a conversation with one of my son’s
friends, in Fuggles the other week, which persuaded me that a visit was long
overdue. As I said earlier, deciding to go for a bike ride provided the perfect excuse for a visit, especially as
much of the route would be off road.
We are fortunate in Tonbridge to have a large expanse of
public space behind the town, know as the Sports-ground. There is also a cycle
route running around the periphery, which leads to Hayesden
Country Park;
another open space. My route from home, took me along the River Medway and
around the Sports-ground, before turning off along a tarmac path which leads to
Leigh Powder Mills. From there, it is a relatively quiet stretch by country
road, under the A21 flyover, and then into Leigh.
I stopped for a short while at the village green, pausing to
take in the quintessentially English view across the cricket pitch, to the
Parish Church of St Mary’s, which is purported to occupy the highest point in
the village, before continuing past the school and Post Office to the Fleur de Lis.
The pub had been altered since my last visit. The two bar
layout had been opened out into two distinct areas, one offering dining around
an open fire while the other smaller bar (originally the Public Bar), is more
for drinking and socialising. I grabbed one of the comfy armchairs by the
window, having first ordered myself a beer.
I opted for a pint of Taylor’s
Landlord; good at 3.0 NBSS, but expensive at £4.40. I overheard the landlord
talking to one of the regulars sitting at the bar. The former mentioned that
Larkin’s would be the next beer on, which pleased the customer as he said the
local beer would be cheaper. “No,” said the landlord, who went on to explain he
has to buy all his guest ales through Greene King, even though Larkin’s are
situated just a few miles up the road!
Also on at the bar, were Pearl of Kent from Whitstable Brewery
and Grasshopper from Westerham, alongside the ubiquitous GK IPA. The pub was
busy with diners, which included several family groups, but like me there were
a few people just relaxing and enjoying a drink.
It was all very pleasant, but I wasn’t tempted to stay for
another. Rain had been forecast for later in the afternoon, and it had been
raining slightly in the wind during my outward journey. Not only didn’t I wish
to get wet, but I also had a few items of shopping to pick up in Tonbridge,
before the shops shut at 4pm.
I cycled back following pretty much the same route, managing by and large to avoid the rain, and arriving home shortly before 4pm. According to the app on my phone I had
cycled a distance of 8.5 miles and burned off 851 calories. I’m not sure about
the latter, but I certainly knew that I’d cycled those miles!
Thursday 31 August 2017
A perfect English summer's day
As I sit typing at my computer, whilst watching the rain
lashing against the window, it’s hard to
believe that just a few days ago the country was basking in the heat of the
warmest Bank Holiday weekend in 50 years.
Looking back on that all too brief glimpse of summer, it’s
worth noting that there were plenty of beer-related activities taking place
over the long weekend. With family visits taking priority on the Saturday, and
playing catch-up on the domestic front on Bank Holiday Monday, Sunday was blissfully
free of commitments, apart from joining some friends from my local CAMRA Branch on a walk to a
rather lovely, but often over-looked country pub.
Four of us boarded a bus in Tonbridge to make the short
journey to Hadlow; a large village which
I have written about before. Our plan was to walk to the tiny hamlet of Dunks
Green, near Plaxtol, and to spend a couple of hours at the picturesque Kentish Rifleman pub, before returning to Hadlow. We would then have time for a drink
at the Two Brewers; a Harvey’s pub,
just a short hop from the main square, before catching the last bus back to
Tonbridge.
The bus dropped us in Hadlow, at the far end of the village,
from where we were able to take a footpath that leads slowly up towards the Greensand
Ridge. We have walked this way on several previous occasions; the latest
being exactly a year ago, but each time we notice something different. This
time it was the walnut trees laden with still ripening nuts, on the slope
leading up towards Oxen Hoath House. The latter is a Victorian mansion
which now functions as a conference centre.
The former Artichoke Inn |
A short while later we reached the sadly closed Artichoke
pub at Hamptons, and couldn’t help
reflecting on the loss of this fine old attractive inn. The pub is now a
private dwelling, but in its time it was a really popular venue, despite its
isolated location. I certainly have happy memories of the Artichoke, and
remember enjoying a drink there with my wife, in the early days of our
relationship; when we were still courting.
Crossing the lane in front of the pub, and skirting the grounds of a rather attractive property, we descended through woodland towards a ploughed field. At the bottom was a double row of very sad-looking poplars; their leaves prematurely brown and dry. Quite what disease had affected these magnificent trees was uncertain, but they were in a sorry state, and some had already been felled.
Before reaching the lane which leads up to Dunks Green, we
came across a lady picking cobnuts. The area around Plaxtol was once the centre
of Kentish nut-growing, and at one time there were some quite extensive
plantations of Kent Cobnuts; a larger, and some would say tastier, variety of
hazelnuts. The examples being picked were growing wild, but we noticed that
this lady had gathered a decent amount.
This part of Kent
was formerly a centre for paper-making, on a pre-industrial scale, and on the
way to the pub we passed Roughway Mill; one of the former paper-mills.
In nearby Plaxtol, the Papermaker’s Arms pub commemorates this once
thriving industry.
We arrived at the Kentish Rifleman shortly after 1.15 pm. It wasn't a long walk, by any stretch
of the imagination, but it was sufficient to work up a decent thirst. Waiting
sat at one of the benches at the front of the pub, was our branch social
secretary who, whilst unable to join us on the walk because of family
commitments, had driven over to join us for a couple of beers.
The Kentish Rifleman is an attractive old building,
which dates from the early16th Century. It has been well-restored following a
serious fire back in 2007 which almost completely destroyed the roof, and
caused extensive damage to the rest of the building. Apart from the photo’s
hanging in the public bar, showing the fire at its height, you would never know
that such a catastrophe had befallen the pub.
Stepping inside into the coolness of the public bar, we
noticed the Rifleman had four cask beers on offer. These were the two regular
beers - Harvey’s Sussex Best and Whitstable Native, plus Tonbridge Golden Rule
and Westerham Endeavour Single Hop, as guests. Most of us opted for the Golden
Rule, a well-hopped, pale golden beer with the relatively low strength of 3.5%
ABV. It was cool and refreshing, and it well deserved a rating of 4.0 NBSS.
Later on I gave the Single-Hop beer from Westerham a go.
This slightly stronger, and slightly
darker beer came in at 4.5% ABV, and scored 3.5 NBSS. We had been at the pub the best part of an hour, when we were
joined by a member from Tunbridge Wells, who’d caught a later bus and had then
walked over from Hadlow, following roughly the same route as us.
Spotted on the walk back |
Two members of our party treated themselves to lunch. The
rest of us resisted, having brought a few rolls with us for later on, but I
have to confess the Rifleman’s roast dinner did look rather good, as did the dessert of Salcombe Ice Cream! Whilst we
were sitting there, the landlord popped out for a brief chat. He knew we were
from CAMRA and was pleased to see us. His beer certainly came out highly rated,
if my scores are anything to go by. The pub had been quite quiet that day, but
having said that there still seemed a steady stream of people coming and going.
We left just after 3pm,
as we wanted to get back to Hadlow in time for a pint or two at the Two
Brewers. We took a different, but still familiar route, following the course of
the fast flowing River Bourne. The
river provided a source of power for
the mills which one populated this valley but nowadays, apart from the odd farm
on the tops of the hills, the Bourne
Valley is practically deserted.
We entered Hadlow from the west, finding our way through the
maze of residential streets to the village centre. The Two Brewers was
reasonably busy, although whether most of the punters had come for the live
Premier League match being shown, is open to question. One rather tetchy
woman, sat at the bar, moaned at my friend to get out of the way, as she
couldn’t see the game; he was only trying to get a round of drinks in.
Fortunately the landlady was far more hospitable, and came
over for a chat with us later. She even plonked a couple of bowls of roast potatoes,
left over from Sunday lunch, on the table in front of us. She told us she was
from Liverpool, but had spent a considerable amount of
time living in South Africa.
The Two Brewers was her first pub, and
by all accounts she is making a real success of this pub, which has had a
something of a chequered history in the past.
The beer was in fine form and it was good to have a pint of Harvey’s
XX Dark Mild in good condition; 3.0 NBSS. I ended up with a half of Lewes
Castle Brown Ale, which was in reasonable condition, but a little warm;
probably from having been lying in the pipes all day. Harvey’s Sussex Best and
Hadlow Bitter were the other beers, for those wanting something a little more
mainstream.
After drinking up, we wandered back along to the main
square, in time for the last bus back. I can think of few better ways of
spending such a fine English summer’s day, as a walk in the idyllic Kent
countryside, followed by a few pints with friends at two equally idyllic pubs.
Monday 28 August 2017
It's a matter of taste
After a long period of what seems like never-ending
experimentation, could it be that brewers are finally running out of
inspiration? There does seem to have been a desire, amongst some, to shock by
attempting to marry together totally different flavours in a way that simply
doesn’t work; even with the best will in the
world.
Allied with this is a willingness amongst a significant
number of beer geeks, to embrace some of the stranger concoctions with a
sycophantic acceptance which borders on obsequiousness, even though they know
in their heart of hearts that certain combinations are never going to work. To
say that there is rather more of a hint of “the Emperor’s new clothes” about
this, would be an understatement.
Most people could name the four main tastes which the human
tongue is capable of differentiating; namely bitter, sweet, sour and salt.
Certain tastes combine well, such as sweet and sour, and bitter and sweet, but
others do not; the chief one being a combination of sweetness and saltiness.
I should perhaps have known this before picking up a bottle
of Maritime Salted Caramel Porter 5.5% in M&S the other day. Instead I had
been looking forward to trying this beer, so imagine my disappointment after
cracking it open to find that the added “Belgian-inspired twist of rich,
salted-caramel” didn’t work at all. Combining salty and sweet flavours on this
occasion, was a dismal failure, which did lead me to wonder, what a
respected brewer like Meantime, who produced this beer exclusively for Marks
& Sparks, was doing?
Unfortunately this is not the first time I have encountered
beers with an odd (off-beat is being too polite!), combination of flavours, but
rather than something turned out in a railway arch, I have to say the culprits
have often been some of the more mainstream and established brewers.
A while back, I purchased three bottles of Bateman’s “Craft
Beer” from Morrison’s; a supermarket I rarely use, simply because the company
have no stores in this part of Kent.
I wouldn’t normally have bought them, as they looked rather "gimmicky," but as
they were priced at just 99p each, I decided to give them a go.
I didn’t drink them straight away, but when I got round to
opening them I made some notes. Unfortunately, I have to report that with the exception
of one of them my initial feelings were correct. Anyway, here’s what I wrote at
the time.
Bateman’s Orange Barley 6.2%. Brewed in small batches, and
in small bottles, this beer forms part of the company’s “Sovereign Range”. According to the label, “The beer is brewed
with zesty oranges and natural cane sugar to deliver unabated sweetness, bite,
body and charm”.
The beer was quite drinkable; not too sweet and with
distinct orange over-tones. It was an enjoyable beer, which would go down well
after a meal, but it wasn’t a beer I would go out of my way to drink.
Bateman’s Hazelnut Brownie 6.3%. Another beer from the same range, which is
described as “Deliciously fudgy, rich and nutty,” and contains Belgian
chocolate, plus a hint of cinnamon.
This one was rather too sweet for my liking and, whilst not
unpleasant, was again not a beer I would choose to buy.
Bateman’s Mocha Amaretto 6.5%. Described as, “The perfect blend of coffee
pot aroma, almond and chocolate indulgence with the sweetness of Biscotti. This
delicately prepared beer is a true homage to all that is wonderful about Italy’s
café culture”. This was the third beer from the “Sovereign
Range.”
Well the marketing people certainly had a field day with this
beer. It was truly awful; so much so that I couldn’t finish it. It was as
though someone at the brewery had been playing around with the essences and
flavourings, and that someone didn’t really know what they were doing! Although
the beer had an air of amaretto, it was cloyingly sweet with a horrible clash
of different tastes and aromas.
Whilst the Hazelnut Brownie was drinkable, and under the right
circumstances would not have been unpleasant, the Mocha Amaretto was absolutely
ghastly; so much so that I poured most of it down the sink! It would seem that I am not alone in my dislike of this beer and my thoughts about just adding flavours for the sake of it, as an online search brought up this review from Pubcask.
The strange thing is that Mocha coffee flavours can work
with beer, and Bateman’s are well aware of this; as witnessed by their 6.0%.
Mocha Beer. This beer is brewed using fresh coffee and chocolate
beans which are combined with a rich malt base, and is definitely one of the
better coffee and chocolate infusion examples.
On the sweet side, as expected, but with rich chocolate and
coffee notes to the fore, this would make a good after dinner beer; or even one
to go with the dessert. I would not want to drink more than one Bateman’s Mocha
during a session, but it’s not a bad beer to round off the evening.
Dark Star Espresso 4.2%, is another coffee flavoured beer,
and like the Mocha Amaretto is one which just doesn’t work for me. Brewed with
roasted barley malt and bittered with Challenger hops, freshly ground Arabica
coffee beans are added to the copper for a few minutes after the boil to
provide a rich and complementary coffee aroma.
The brewery’s strap-line with this one is that “It’s not
everyone’s cup of tea!” If you forgive the awful pun, I don't think it's anyone's cup of tea, as I haven’t found a single soul who admits to liking it, and yet it’s one of the company’s regular
beers, and has been part of their portfolio for quite some time. Somebody must
like it then, as surely novelty sales alone would be insufficient to make this a
viable brew.
The message to brewers then is clear; experiment by all
means, but don’t be blinded by what you create. Above all, think things through
carefully before launching. The message to beer geeks is similar and basically
is don’t get sucked in by the marketing and the associated hype. Use your own experience
of knowing which tastes go together and
which don’t and if you then try something, which isn’t really for you, don’t go
around saying it’s marvellous, just because (insert the name of your own
favourite hipster brewer), brewed it.
Thursday 24 August 2017
Three pubs rescued from closure
Having set the scene in the previous post, I would now like
to reveal the three former Whitbread pubs which re-opened recently, after
benefiting from having new owners who have lavished a lot of TLC, as well as
hard cash, on their purchases.
The first pub, and the one which required a new roof and a
major re-build, is the Kentish Hare; formerly the Hare & Hounds. It is
located in the centre of Bidborough, a small village just to the north of
Southborough, which has given its name
to the ridge on which it is situated. Bidborough Ridge affords spectacular views
northwards across the flatlands which lie between the High Weald and the
Greensand Ridge, and on a clear day it is possible to see for miles right
across and along this attractive area of West Kent.
There are quite a few large houses on the edge of the ridge,
constructed in order to take advantage of the view. As can be imagined, they
cost a pretty penny, but it’s hard to envisage somewhere with that sort of
outlook. The main, and much older settlement which is Bidborough, lies further
back towards the church, and here are the more normal and affordable houses. The
19th Century building which houses the pub, is situated right on the
crossroads, next to the garage and opposite the village shop and Post Office.
As mentioned in the previous article, the former Hare &
Hounds was bought and restored by a titled lady who lives in the village. This
benefactor did not want to see Bidborough lose its only pub, which was also the
place where the cricket team congregated after matches, and where villagers could
meet up to socialise, and catch up with what is going on both locally, and
globally.
The pub’s saviour realised that something more than just a
village local was necessary to ensure a viable future for her investment, so
she engaged the services of experienced
restaurateurs, Chris and James Tanner. The pair opened their first restaurant
"Tanners" in Plymouth, in 1999, which proved to be the start of a
thriving family enterprise
As might be expected, the emphasis at the Kentish Hare is on
food, and a step inside reveals that a considerable amount of money has been
spent internally, as well as externally. However, with a number of different
areas, including a separate restaurant plus conservatory, drinkers need not
feel out of place. In fact there is a separate bar area at the front of the
pub, where the rather brutalist-looking stainless-steel hand-pulls are the
first thing to greet the drinker.
Harvey’s was the
only cask beer I recognised, as “Kentish Hare” must be a so-called “house
beer”. There is also provision for a “guest ale”. I didn’t find out the
identity of the latter, as it was a scorching hot June day (remember them?),
when I visited, so unashamedly I ordered a nice cool pint of Estrella Damm,
from Barcelona.
I drive past the Kentish Hare each morning, on my way to
work, and I also pass the next pub which is situated in the impossibly pretty,
picture-postcard village of Penshurst.
The village is home to the Leicester Arms Hotel, which is a fine looking,
ivy-covered building, dating back to the 16th Century. It is right
in the centre of Penshurst, and is just a short hop from the gates of the
historic Tudor Penshurst Place;
home to the Sidney family and
former home of Anne Boleyn. For those old enough to remember vintage Hollywood,
Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, famously stayed at the pub whilst filming
a period drama at the nearby Tudor property.
Penshurst Place
attracts thousands of visitors each year, so one would imagine the
strategically placed Leicester Arms would be an obvious draw for them. I’m sure
that this was the case, but it didn’t stop the pub from being closed, and
boarded up for quite a lengthy period.
Thankfully the Leicester Arms has now re-opened, but not
before a substantial amount of money was spent on the building, putting right
years of neglect by its former owners. Today it offers 13 well-equipped
en-suite bedrooms, a restaurant and a function room, but happily the front,
right hand side of the building still functions as a pub.
Here there is a bar, which is open all day, offering a warm
welcome to locals and visitors alike; something I can personally vouch for.
There are two roaring fires for those colder days, and a good array of drinks
including local real ales. When I called in, earlier in the year, Larkin’s
Traditional, Harvey’s Best, plus a
guest ale (an offering from Isfield Brewery at the time), were available The bar is also dog friendly; as befits a
proper country pub.
Although there is a strong emphasis on food, this does not
encroach on the pub part of the business, and the bar itself seems to me the
same as it ever did. If you do fancy a meal the items on the menu are perhaps a
quid or two more than I’d prefer to pay, but considering the surrounding and the
location, are not unreasonable.
The final pub in our trio of former Whitbread pubs, is in
the opposite direction from my workplace, and is situated in the hamlet of
Bough Beech. Like the Leicester Arms, the Wheatsheaf was closed for quite some
time. Both pubs were at one time run by the same couple; as mentioned in the
previous post, but given the amount of work necessary to bring both buildings
up to modern standards, it is perhaps not surprising that this husband and wife
team decided to call it a day.
Fortunately a local businessman stepped in, and today is
busy serving food and drink to the dozens of tourists who visit the nearby
attractions of Chiddingstone and Hever castles. The benefactor in this instance
is the same person who has recently taken over the tenancy of the historic
Castle Inn, in the nearby National -Trust owned village
of Chiddingstone. He is also
reported to be a director of Westerham Brewery, which might explain the number
of Westerham beers on the bar.
I have visited the Wheatsheaf on a couple of occasions since
it re-opened; the last one being a couple of weeks ago. I had a half day off
work, so I called in just before 12.30pm.
The pub was quite quiet, but it was a Monday and the weather was not exactly
what you would call summer-like. Even so I was brave enough to sit out in the
rather splendid garden after I had bought my pint of Westerham Viceroy. Other
beers on tap included Harvey’s
Best, Larkin’s Traditional plus two other Westerham beers; slightly too many in
my view!
The pub interior is divided into a number of smaller areas,
each with their own individual charm, and has been renovated in a tasteful
manner, sympathetic to the character of this old inn. The building is rumoured
to date from the end of the 14th Century, and in Tudor times it
served as a hunting lodge for nearby Hever
Castle. Various clues to its age
and previous owners have been uncovered during renovations, and some of these
can be viewed in the pub.
Today the Wheatsheaf majors on food, much of it locally
sourced. The pub even has its own “kitchen garden”, which the chef and the
staff are rather proud of. Given it close proximity to the local historic
attractions, it is understandably popular with tourists. The large car-park at
the front of the building is testament to this popularity.
Like the other two pubs, there is an area where people can
sit and enjoy a drink without feeling pressurised to order a meal. The staff
were pleasant and friendly as well, which is always a good sign, so all in all
the Wheatsheaf is definitely worthy of a visit.
Like I said at the end
of the previous post, these three pubs have become “destination” eating
places, and one is also a thriving hotel. Whilst traditionalists might bemoan
the fact they are no longer the simple country alehouses they once were, the
fact they are still open and are continuing to welcome both casual and local
drinkers, is definitely worthy of applause.
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