Faversham re-visited, Pt 1

Stepping off the train at Faversham station last Friday, a minute or two after midday, brought back quite a few memories. The four-platform station is more extensive than I remember but not untypical of other stations further along the line, at places such as Margate and Ramsgate. I ascended the steps, crossed the road and right in front of me was the Railway Hotel, an imposing and attractive red brick late, Victorian public house. Like many pubs in this pleasant north Kent town, the Railway is owned by Shepherd Neame, who are Britain’s oldest brewery – see below.

I left the Railway for that final, pre return train pint and carried on towards the town centre, where I was making for two classic Shepherd Neame pubs that I remembered from previous visits. On the way, down I passed an attractive looking boozer, called the Limes. I also bookmarked that one for later as well, and carried on  Faversham retains a remarkably intact historic core, with a well preserved medieval and Georgian townscape, with parts dating back to Saxon times. In 811AD, a royal charter established Faversham as an important Saxon estate., and then in 1147–48, Faversham Abbey was founded by King Stephen and Queen Matilda. The abbey became the town’s dominant institution for nearly 400 years until its dissolution in 1538.

Local tradition holds that the abbey’s monks recognised the quality of Faversham’s spring water for brewing. This tradition continued, and in 1698 Shepherd Neame was founded. Today Shep’s are Britain’s oldest brewer and are still operating in the town centre. From the 16th century, Faversham became one of Britain’s earliest centres of gunpowder production. Its mills supplied explosives for military and industrial use until the early 20th century. A catastrophic explosion in 1916 killed over 100 workers and marked the industry’s decline. The historic feel to the town centre, is evidenced by the many half-timbered buildings, overlooking narrow streets, and winding little alleyways. The fact that much of the traffic has been diverted away from the town centre, makes walking around Faversham a pleasure rather than an experience to be wary of, but what about the pubs that I visited?

First on the list was the Bear Inn, situated in the town’s Market Place, and one of the oldest pubs in Faversham. Stepping in through the front door, visitors can either continue straight ahead, through an internal door or, do as I did and turn directly right through another door. The former option leads to two further bars, both leading off the corridor, whilst the latter opens straight into what can best be described as a “snug” bar. With bare wooden floors, wooden seating and walls decorated with various Shepherd Neame Brewery artefacts, and beer dispensed from an ancient bank of beer engines perched on the counter, this really was like stepping back in time.

Apart from me, the only other customer in the bar was a middle-aged lady perched on a bar stool, absorbed in reading the local newspaper.  She had a dog with her, but apart from that she wasn't at all chatty. I too, decided that silence was the best policy, so instead just enjoyed sitting there soaking up the atmosphere of this lovely old pub. Unfortunately, I later discovered that the Bear offered the reasonably priced food options that I spent much of the next couple of hours, looking for! Oh well, you can’t win them all, and it kind of serves me right for not doing my homework, thoroughly
enough.

I didn't have far to go to the second pub, but before stepping inside, the Sun Inn, I took a stroll along into West Street where there was a small market going on. There were some interesting items for sale, although as none appealed to me that much, I adjourned to the historic Sun Inn, an attractive and multi-roomed 14^th century pub, sited in the town’s conservation area. 

The Sun is brimming with a number of intriguing original features, including several inglenook fireplaces, oak beams plus a lovely courtyard garden, that is accessed from the middle bar. As well as being popular with local diners, the pub has eight characterful bedrooms providing stylish accommodation. Shepherd Neame beers again, although as with the Bear, the Master Brew Bitter was at least quite quaffable.

I was feeling peckish by this time, so after leaving the Sun I headed off in a westerly direction towards the quayside, at Faversham Creek. On the way I called in at Crusts, a local bakery offering filled rolls and, according to the shop sign, so much more. The rolls did indeed appear tempting, but not as tempting as the Cornish Pasty I ordered, direct from the hot cabinet. It provided the solid sustenance I was craving, so I sat out on a bench opposite the shop, enjoying this ideal, lunchtime snack. The sun too, was shining by this time, which was a welcome change from the rain that had followed me eastwards, across the county, all the way from Tonbridge.                    

To be continued.................................................................................................