Pubs of the Suffolk Coast

We will take a brief pause before continuing our exploration of the Surrey-Hampshire border area, whilst I tell you about a real gem of a booklet that I discovered during a spot of de-cluttering at home. This is a gradual process of parting with items I no longer need or require, but of course the odd piece of treasure sometimes comes to light. Tucked away, amongst a pile of maps, I came across an absorbing little booklet published in 1978 by the East Anglian Tourist Board, bearing the title, “Pubs of the Suffolk Coast". Researched and written by Michael Watkins, a respected local journalist and broadcaster. At the time, Watkins contributed to a number of publications including The Times, Sunday Telegraph, Evening Standard, and Homes & Gardens. He also produced content for the BBC. His other works included the restaurant guide, "A Taste of East Anglia.”

In this booklet, Mr. Watkins presents 26 of his favourite pubs. As he explains in his introduction, the coastal pubs of Suffolk are generally authentic and unpretentious establishments. The landlords he met were largely indifferent to their inclusion in the guide, as they were not focused on publicity, but rather on fulfilling their demanding role of serving the community by providing them with hospitality, warmth, and sustenance from early morning until late at night. Watkins concludes his introduction by assuring readers that while he cannot promise an idealised version of Suffolk, they will undoubtedly experience its true character and, he believes, they will appreciate it.

The pubs in the guide were selected due to them being traditional, ale houses, although 50 years ago, most pubs would have fitted this description, and whilst there are a few independent "free houses," the majority of the pubs featured are owned by local breweries, such as Tolly Cobbold or Adnams.  

The heritage of these two breweries is as longstanding, as many of the pubs. For example, the Tollemach family can trace its roots in the area back to 1080, and the Cobbold family began brewing locally in 1723. These two families joined forces as Tolly Cobbold in 1957. In Southwold, records refer to Sole Bay Brewery as early as 1641, and the present company, Adnams & Co, dates back to 1872. Sadly, Tolly Cobbold are no more, but Adnams certainly are, and these days, the company is known all over the country, rather than just in Southwold and the surrounding area.

My paternal grandparents retired to a small village near Saxmundham, so I have fond personal memories of this region, from both childhood visits, and trips to the area, in later years. I am therefore familiar with many of the places mentioned in the guide, and have also become acquainted with some of the pubs. The description, "nothing fancy" applies to the pubs like the Old Cross Keys, Aldeburgh, the Jolly Sailor at Orford, the Oyster Inn at Butley, the Old Bell and Steelyard at Woodbridge an unusual one this being a free house, the  White Hart Wickham Market,  the Bell at Walberswick, the Sole Bay Inn and the Lord Nelson in Southwold itself and finally, the Golden Key at Snape - a small Suffolk village on the the River Alde, and not a character in the Harry Potter series!

What I like about this book is that it describes what is now a lost world. A simple world where pubs concentrated on looking after their customers, serving good beer and, in many cases, good food. It provides a fascinating retrospective on the pub scene in a distinct and close-knit region of the UK, and although out of print, this lovely little book offers valuable insight into a bygone era and provides a fascinating perspective on the pub culture of fifty years ago. If I had more free time, I would be interested in revisiting some of these pubs, to determine how many are still operating today, and how much they have changed.