Larkin's Alehouse

I had been aware of Larkin’s Alehouse in Cranbrook for quite a few years, which isn’t perhaps surprising, given that this beer-centred, and award-winning outlet opened in 2017. I’ve been meaning to visit for some time, especially as I’ve now got my bus-pass, but the thing that spurred me into doing so, was a comment made on my blog by someone who is an occasional, and very welcome contributor. All contributors are welcome of course, but David Harrison, who I’ve never met, appears to share a mutual knowledge and admiration, of pubs and places that I remember from the times I lived in other areas of Kent.

First, there’s Ashford, where I grew up and went to school, but there’s also Maidstone, the country town of Kent, and the place where I lived for six years, when I first moved back to the county. David had been looking, unsuccessfully as it turned out, for some Larkin’s Porter, and mentioned that he hadn’t seen the beer at all this year, despite it appearing on the “Coming Soon” board at Larkin’s Alehouse. He of course, mentioned that despite sharing a name, there is no link between the Cranbrook pub and Larkin’s Brewery of Chiddingstone.

That conundrum was cleared up, by my visit, but more of that later. Somewhat ironically, I had passed Larkin’s Alehouse, a month or so before, on my trip out to Benenden; and in fact, Jeff - my friend from Maidstone, who I had met earlier that day at the Bull in Benenden, had tried persuading me to join him for a couple of pints, on the return journey. Unfortunately, I was unable to do so, as I needed to get back early to Tonbridge, on that particular day, but having seen where the place was, there was no excuse not to visit.

The chance came last Thursday when, despite the rainy and quite windy conditions, I took the bull by the horns, and set off for Cranbrook, by bus. I wrote about the journey in my previous post, and also waxed lyrical about the delights of this charming little, Wealden town, so cutting to the chase I walked into Larkin’s just after 12.15. The door was open, when I arrived, and there was just one old boy sat at one of the tables. As it happened, he didn’t stay long, but small matter, what was important was the friendly greeting I received from the lady who turned out to be the manager.

I thought at first, that she was one of the owners, but from the conversation that developed over the course of my visit, I discovered this wasn’t the case. Her name was Emma, and her job title is Bar Manager. She asked me if I’d been in before, but after saying I hadn’t, I was given a quick lesson in the basics, starting with the beers. These are written up on the chalkboard, just along from the bar, and show the four brews that are current plus the three that are coming up next.

The beers themselves, are kept in a temperature-controlled room, just off the corridor that run to the back of the pub and are dispensed by gravity. There is nothing finer, in my book, than beer served straight from the cask, unless you are a northerner, of course, who likes several inches of foam on top of your pint! The pub has no cellar, so all beer has to be brought through the pub and stored in a shed at the rear of the property.  A couple of deliveries took place whilst I was there; one from Hop Fuzz and the other from one of the cider suppliers.

And so, to the beer. There were three beers from Cellar Head displayed on the board, and I have to admit beers from this company are not amongst my favourites. There is nothing wrong with them, although I do feel that Cellar Head’s insistence on not fining their beers, does impart a degree of coarseness, which to my way of thinking, detracts from the main event. A substantial number of people obviously disagree with this sentiment, as evidenced by the sheer number of outlets stocking Cellar Head beers, but with an old ale from Long Man brewery as the only alternative, I had little choice but to go with something from the former outfit.

I’d planned to move onto the Long Man brew later, so to start with I opted for the Cellar Head Session Bitter. With an ABV of 4.0%, it was midway between the Session Pale and the 5.0% India Pale Ale, but to give credit where it’s due, my pint was perfectly acceptable, well kept, well-conditioned, and just what was needed to slake my thirst. Long Man Old Man is a 4.3% old ale, and is a beer I’d enjoyed in bottle, a couple of weeks before. This full-bodied, traditional old ale is packed with chocolate and coffee flavours, which complement the soft malt and gentle hop base, and went down very nicely with my lunch.

Lunch took the form of a filled roll – cheese or ham. I went for ham and jolly nice it was too. Supplied by one of the local butchers, it was full-flavoured, tasty and just the right filling for a substantial soft-crust roll. Pork pies are available during the summer months, again sourced from the same butcher. Crisps, nuts, and the inevitable pork scratchings, complement the more solid fayre.

The pub was on the quiet side during most of my visit, with just one other customer - a young lad who came in for a couple of pints and a chat. Emma was happy to chat too, apart from when she nipped out for a “fag break.” It turns out she knew quite a few of the Maidstone CAMRA members, which is hardly surprising given that the pub was awarded, MMK Pub of the Year for 2019. I asked about name of the pub, knowing that there was no relation with Larkin’s Brewery at Chiddingstone, and the story is it is owned by two couples, up in 2017. Larkin’s Alehouse is a conversion of a former shop, and the name comes from the maiden name of the two sisters who set up the business, in conjunction with their husbands.

One of the sisters came in, shortly before I had to leave, and I was introduced, as someone who knows one of the regular helpers behind the bar. I won’t name names, but he is someone who lives locally, who I have known for a long time. I left my card with Emma promising both her and the proprietor that I will definitely make a return visit. I had to leave promptly to catch the bus, and it was a good job I did, as it arrived early – it waited until the allotted time before departing, though!

Larkin’s Alehouse ticks all the right boxes, as far as I am concerned, especially as it is a pub, rather than a micro-pub adhering to the constrictive and over-bearing, Herne rules. With the exception of the spirits, most of the beers, wines and ciders are locally sourced, and the same applies to the snacks. The pub is well liked and well-used by the local community, which is another point in its favour. So yes, I shall be returning, sooner rather than later.