At Anchor for 40 years

In the fast and ever changing world in which we live in, it’s sometimes good to know there are a few things which don’t change as quickly, or as frequently as we might think. You wouldn’t perhaps include the licensed trade in this category, although a generation or two ago, you almost certainly would.

When I first started drinking it was the norm for a pub licensee to remain at the helm for many years, perhaps then handing on the business to a younger member of the family, but today such longevity is the exception, rather than the rule.

Looking at the way the licensed trade is continuing to change, the established pattern of yesteryear has virtually disappeared, along with qualities such as consistency and stability. The latter two virtues in particular, are sadly missing from the pub trade today, but they haven’t vanished entirely, as I’m about to reveal.

I’m pleased to report that one well-known Sevenoaks landlord has bucked the trend and lasted not just for a few years, but for several decades. That person is Barry Dennis, who is by far the longest serving licensee in Sevenoaks. He has now been behind the bar of the Anchor, in the town’s London Road, for the last 40 years!

Barry comes from a family of publicans, and has certainly seen some changes since he first took over this traditional town pub, back in 1979. Forty years ago the Anchor was a Charrington’s pub; serving Charrington IPA and Draught Bass. Today, whilst the pub is owned by Admiral Inns, Barry has a fair degree of control over the cask beers he is allowed to stock.

With the wisdom which comes from four decades in the trade, Barry has resisted the temptation to turn the Anchor into a “beer-exhibition” show pub, and sensibly stocks just three cask ales. He is obviously doing something right, as he shifts around 10 x nine gallon casks each week; the quality of which can be judged by over two decades in CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide.

But it isn’t just the beer which sparkles at the Anchor, because as well as offering food every day, there is always something else going on at the pub. For example,  Monday is Texas Hold ‘em Poker night, and on other occasions the pub holds regular blues evenings, darts, presentations from various brewers, charity events, meat raffles and open mike nights for budding musicians. Barry is also a keen supporter of the town’s Stag Theatre, which is almost opposite the pub.

As if all this wasn’t enough, there is always Barry himself to liven up proceedings. He is certainly a larger than life character and a real showman to boot; conducting proceedings from behind the bar like a “Master of Ceremonies”. In short, Barry never seems to stand still, and there is always something going on at the Anchor.

Returning to Barry’s milestone achievement, last Thursday evening he generously invited a select group of local CAMRA members, to a meal plus a few drinks at the pub, in order to help celebrate this remarkable achievement. The group consisted of those individuals who have been long standing supporters of what Barry has achieved at the Anchor, during his time at the helm.

I was pleased to be invited to this select gathering, so after catching the train over to Sevenoaks, I made my way up the hill towards the Anchor, accompanied by four other members who I met at the station. We arrived at the pub in plenty of time for the eight o’clock sit down, and Barry of course was behind the bar, waiting to welcome us. Barry is generous to a fault, as the first pint was on him, as were the selection of various craft beer bottles on the table, there to be either enjoyed with the meal, or to take home for those that wished. 

The beers on tap that evening were Wantsum Imperial, Franklin’s English Garden and Gadd’s Seasider. I spent the evening alternating between the Franklin’s and the Gadds, as I have never been a fan of Wantsum. However, I do admit that Wantsum is a brilliant name for a beer, even though the brewery is named after the Wantsum Channel, the watercourse which once separated the Isle of Thanet from the rest of Kent.
 

Barry was certainly on form and we had a lengthy chat before joining the rest of the CAMRA crew, sat at a long table to the left of the bar. The pub was busy with regulars and other customers, enjoying a game of darts, a turn on the pool table or just chatting, but Barry still found time to serve them,  pop back to the kitchen – to see how our meal was progressing, as well as chatting to us.      

Barry and Bill

We eventually sat down to eat and enjoy a well-presented roast dinner of beef and pork, complete with roast potatoes and all the trimmings. The Anchor’s kitchen team certainly surpassed themselves with the meal. There was also cheesecake for afters, but I passed on this, as I find sweet dishes spoil the taste of the beer!

After the meal it was time for the presentation. Forty years deserves something special, and what could be more special and more personal than an original, hand-drawn caricature of Barry, sketched out on behalf of the branch by Bill Beacham, who is a local CAMRA member and regular at the Royal Oak in Tunbridge Wells. Bill also hand-drew the card congratulating Barry on his 40 years, which was signed by those in attendance.

For such an outgoing person, Barry is actually quite modest. He thanked everyone for coming and said that despite his longevity in charge at the Anchor, he hadn’t really done anything special, apart from really loving his job. (He did admit to not liking the paperwork side of running a pub, but that’s understandable!)

This is so true. If you can’t love what you are doing, then you shouldn’t be doing it. This is especially true of the pub trade, where you are dealing with people, on both sides of the bar.

So congratulations to Barry and a big thank-you for Thursday evening’s meal and drinks. One final point, and this is one which is puzzling me as well as Barry, does anyone know who is the longest serving licensee in the UK? And if do, how long have they been doing the job, and what is the name and location of their pub?

Footnote: The photos of the presentation, and of Barry's pen and ink portrait, are courtesy of various West Kent CAMRA members. The rest of the photos are, as usual, my own.