End of an era?

Regular attendees of the Kent Beer Festival are in for an unpleasant shock, following the news that the event is having to look for a new home. The Kent Festival is the second oldest CAMRA organised event in the country, and this year would have seen Kent’s premier beer festival celebrating its 44^th year.

For most of that 44 year period the festival has been held at Merton Farm, just outside Canterbury, but with just six months to go, the festival organisers have been stunned by the farm’s owners decision to pull the plug on the event.

No reason has been given for this, but in a statement, festival organiser Andy Mitchell said “I have been unable to set a date for the festival this year, as I have been advised today (finally) that Merton farm do not wish to facilitate us going forward”.

He went on to say, “I am in the process of seeking another venue. If possible it is hoped that the dates will still remain the same weekend as usual 19th-21st of July but I cannot confirm that at this time. I am already in contact with a potential new venue and full details will be available on here as and when details can be confirmed".

"Please be assured that it is my/our intention to still hold the festival this year and I will let you know as soon as I can”.

The first festival took place back in 1975, and was held in Canterbury’s Dane John Gardens. It continued to be held on this site until 1984, when it moved to the Kent County Cricket Ground for a two year spell.

In 1986 it moved again to Gravesend’s Woodville Halls; the only time it has been held outside of Canterbury. The venue didn’t prove to be a success, and the following year it moved again to its current site at Merton Farm, at Nackington, just outside Canterbury.

So a real disappointment for Kent Beer Festival aficionados, and definitely the end of an era for those of us who make a yearly pilgrimage to this annual event. To those who have never been to the festival, it was held in a massive cow-shed at Merton Farm, very close to the historic farmhouse at the heart of the complex.

There was  often a  distinct “farmyard” smell about the place, particularly during warm weather, and the setting itself was definitely a “Marmite” one. Some people detested the cow-shed, describing it as unhygienic and totally unsuitable for a beer festival whilst others loved its quirkiness and laid-back atmosphere.

My opinion lies somewhere in the middle, in so much that I really enjoy the rural setting of the festival, but am not quite so keen on the cow-shed itself. It can become stiflingly hot inside, although this can be countered by nipping outside from time to time. Do this too often though, and you risk losing your seat.

Speaking realistically for a moment, it probably is time for the festival to move on, and adopt a more polished and professional approach. People like me will always look back with affection at the easy going, laissez faire atmosphere of Merton Farm, but are today’s festival looking for something else; something more sophisticated and up to date?

So as the organisers attempt to secure a new venue with just six months to go, what kind of festival can drinkers expect this year, and will the event still take place in or around Canterbury?  Whatever happens the Kent Beer Festival is likely to be scaled back for 2018, which is hardly surprising given the time constraints, but whether the event happens at all still remains to be seen.

The Swan-on-the-Green, West Peckham

Brew-pubs have been with us in various guises, for centuries. In fact before the rise of commercial breweries, virtually all brewing would have been carried out either in the home, or at the local alehouse.

It was the Middle Ages which saw the first appearance of the “common brewer”; this being someone who brewed beer for any alehouse that did not brew its own beer, and whilst these continued to grow in both number and size, it was still common for most pubs to brew their own beer.

Even as late as the early part of the 19^th Century, around half of the brewing in England was still carried out privately – that is to say by publicans or alehouse owners themselves. The success of the “common brewers” was practically guaranteed though, as the stability and economies of scale they brought to an industry which was very much hit-or-miss, and which lacked the benefits of scientific knowledge and process control,  ensured the drinking public would be getting an enjoyable and quality end product.

Much has been written about the rise of the great brewing companies during the 18^th and 19^th Centuries, but the success of these breweries, and their smaller more localised counterparts, slowly spelled the end for the publican brewer. During the late 19^th and early 20^th Centuries, the number of pubs which still brewed their own beer went into terminal decline, and by the time CAMRA first appeared on the scene, there were just four such brew-pubs remaining in Britain.

Since then, spurred on by the success of the “Real Ale movement” and the burgeoning interest in beer, the number of brewpubs has increased, but this growth has at times been quite sporadic and has often been in waves.

During the 1980’s, David Bruce and his chain of “Firkin” brew-pubs helped to swell the number of brew-pubs quite substantially, but once some of the bigger brewers muscled in on the act, many drinkers began to view pubs which brewed their own ale as something of a gimmick.

Since those heady days, numerous brew-pubs have come and gone, but the genre has seen a steady revival in recent years, largely as a result of the rise of  so-called “craft-beer”. It is therefore encouraging to know that there are still a few pubs who can trace their traditions back, perhaps not quite to those very early days, or indeed not even to the time of  David Bruce, but which nevertheless have been brewing their own beers for the best part of the last two decades. To have such a pub, almost on the doorstep,  is something to be cherished, and after visiting this pub last weekend, I am pleased to report the tradition of home-brewed ales still continues in a few isolated pockets of the country.

The pub in question is the Swan-on-the-Green, in the tiny village of West Peckham, which is roughly halfway between Tonbridge and Maidstone. West Peckham is literally on the “road to nowhere”, as it is reached by turning off along a "dead-end" lane, from the Mereworth to Plaxtol road, a short distance from the B2016 Seven Mile Lane.

Apart from a few houses overlooking the large and attractive village green, plus the rather lovely Saxon church of St. Dunstan's, there is little else in West Peckham, apart from the village pub, appropriately called the Swan-on-the-Green.

The pub was known as the Miller’s Arms, having first acquired a licence in 1685. This was when the establishment originally incorporated a bakery. Parts of the current building are said to date back to the 16^th Century, but most of the pub is slightly newer. In 1852, under new ownership, it changed its name to the Swan. In 2000 the pub was altered again to incorporate "The Swan Micro-brewery" which brews its own range of cask conditioned beers.

I first visited the Swan during the early 1980’s, when I was a member of Maidstone CAMRA branch. Back then it was a pretty ordinary Courage house overlooking the village green. The pub slipped off my radar when I moved to Tonbridge in 1984, and it wasn’t until it started brewing its own beer, as mentioned above, that I took a renewed interest in the place.

Being well of the beaten track, the Swan doesn’t appear the easiest place to get to by public transport, but with a little forward planning, a visit there is perfectly feasible and relatively straight forward. The No.7 service bus, which runs daily between Tonbridge and Maidstone, calls at the nearby village of Mereworth.  Alighting at the stop nearest the village school, followed by a walk along country lanes of just under a mile and a half, brings one to West Peckham. From there, just head towards the church and the village green, and the Swan will be apparent on the left.

Several of my visits though have been whilst walking in this picturesque corner of the county. Both the Greensand Way and Weald Way long distance foot paths, pass close by, and it is whilst walking these routes that I have ended up at the Swan. On Sunday though, I arrived by car, on my way home from Maidstone, after visiting Mrs PBT’s who is in being treated in hospital there, to sort out a rather nasty chest infection.

I parked the car at the side of the pub, pausing briefly to look at the adjoining outbuilding at the rear, which houses the Swan’s  micro-brewery, and made my way inside. The pub is divided into two distinct areas either side of the bar. There is a larger area to the left, which is primarily given over to eating, and a smaller section to the right. This seems to be where the pub regulars and locals from the village hang out. They were certainly all there on Sunday, along with their dogs.

I sat at the bar, as there was plenty of space, and I was not blocking anyone’s access. There were four home-brewed ales on offer; ranging from the 3.6% Fuggles Pale to the 7.4% Christmas Ale. As  I was driving I opted for the former, a crisp, pleasant and very refreshing beer which slipped down well. I scored it at 3.5 NBSS. At just £3.20 a pint, the Fuggles Pale was excellent value for money, and just goes to prove the economies which can be achieved when the beer is brewed on the premises.

I stayed for around 30 minutes. Watching the comings and goings in the adjacent right-hand bar area. These seemed to mainly revolve around people and their dogs. It was all very pleasant, and all so very English and I was glad of the distraction from the spiral of events of the past few days.

I left just after 2.30pm, and was back in Tonbridge, and back to reality in under 15 minutes. I was pleased I’d called in though and will certainly be making further return visits to the Swan. I might also be tempted to treat myself to something of the menu, even though it looks a trifle on the dear side.

Keep the River-Lawn green

A remark by Canada-based commentator, Russ on my most recent post about the Nelson Arms, reminded me that sometimes us Brits aren’t prepared to be shoved around and see our much loved institutions, or local beauty spots taken away from us.

Russ’s comment was, "Good to see locals (in the UK) stepping up to preserve something they feel strongly about". To which I informed him that  the same group responsible for obtaining the ACV on the Nelson Arms, also ran a campaign to save the River-Lawn; an area of parkland in Tonbridge close, to the river, which the local authority wanted to sell off for development.

The land, which fronts the River Medway, was originally bought by the then Tonbridge Urban District Council in 1919. Out of work, servicemen, returning from the Great War, were employed to clear and then landscape the site, turning it into a pleasant green area, overlooking the river, for the townspeople to enjoy in perpetuity.

Fast forward to 2017, and the now greatly enlarged Tonbridge & Malling Borough Council, decided to sell off the River-Lawn to a developer, who wished to erect houses and offices on the site (madness on a floodplain and close to a river which is prone to bursting its banks). The local authority claimed they were strapped for cash, which is probably true, and the sale would generate some much needed cash; but to sell off an asset that has been enjoyed by local residents for the best part of a century, was foolhardy, and flying in the face of local opinion.

Various protest meeting were called, culminating in a march through the centre of Tonbridge on 23^rd September, last year. Along with many other local people, I became involved, and joined the protest held by the group, as we marched through the centre of Tonbridge.

It was a great day, the sun was shining and we brought the town centre to a standstill. The march culminated in a rally, held at the River-Lawn, at which various speeches were made opposing the sell-off of this much loved green space with its magnificent, mature horse-chestnut trees.

The protest attracted masses of support from local residents, shoppers and trades-people, but despite the intense opposition of local people, the council still went ahead and sold the land. TMBC were able to do this because councillors from parts of the borough, many miles away from Tonbridge (the borough extends right along the Medway, almost as far as Rochester), voted in favour of the proposal, as it didn’t affect their “patch”.

I understand an appeal has been raised against the decision, but in the meantime, here are a few photos I took on the day, which demonstrate local people protesting against a measure they consider as both unjust and detrimental to their town.

ps. Thanks to Russ for reminding me of that sunny weekend, back in September last year.

Another "destination pub" for Tonbridge

I’m not sure if I let this one slip back in the summer, but in case I didn’t, or for those who may have missed it, Tonbridge will soon be getting another “destination pub”.

The news come hot on the heels of Fuggles opening in the town, and whilst this was several months ago now, the new addition, which I am about to reveal, will provide some much needed choice to the south end of Tonbridge; an area which sometimes feels like the poor relation to the rest of the town.

The pub in question is the Nelson Arms; a real back-street, corner local, which until its closure in March last year, belonged to Shepherd Neame. It is located in Cromer Street, close to the railway, in the Barden area of the town. It was the closest, and indeed the only pub to where my in-laws used to live, and when I first knew it, it was a Courage house.

The Nelson had been knocked about over the years, losing its separate bars in he process, along with much of its character. When Shepherd Neame announced its closure, a number of local residents and users of the pub, formed an action group, and successfully applied for an AVC to help keep the building as a pub, and to prevent the site from being redeveloped.

In July last year, the pub was bought by Matt and Emma who also own the excellent Windmill at Sevenoaks Weald, and who have turned what was formerly a run-down Greene King pub, into one of the best pubs in the area. The Windmill definitely fits the billing of “destination pub”, offering up to six, locally sourced, cask beers, traditional cider, plus a number of Belgian beers.

The pub has deservedly been voted Pub of the Year, by West Kent CAMRA, for several years running and was only very narrowly pipped at the post by Fuggles, in last year’s competition. Having seen what Matt and Emma have achieved at the Windmill, we have high expectations for what they have planned for the Nelson.

The company in charge of the redesign, are Kook Creative, a design studio based in West Malling, specialising in residential and commercial interiors across the South-East. The Nelson represents their second project in Tonbridge, as the firm were also responsible for the design of the new Fuggles in the town.

From what I understand, some of the original partitions are being put back in place, in order to re-create a multi-bar pub. This will allow the Nelson to cater for a variety of different customers. The beer range will also be a key feature of the re-opened pub; something which will go down well with local residents, including myself.

Again, from what I have heard, the pub will only be serving a very limited range of food, which given its location in a residential area, is not really surprising. Matt and Emma are planning to open the doors of their latest creation at the end of this month, so watch this space for further news.

2017 - The Year in Beer - A few specifics

So after the brief overview of 2017 in the last post, here is a look at some of the highlights in a little more detail.
  
Campaign for Real Ale
CAMRA finds itself at the cross-roads, and next year sees the group finally voting on the much vaunted and long awaited findings of the "Revitalisation Campaign".  I've got my own feelings on this, but returning to local branch matters, in August we sadly lost our former, long-standing Chairman,  Iain - the Kentish Scot.

Iain is greatly missed, both from a personal and also branch point of view. He will be a hard act to follow, and as we wait for a new year to begin, our thoughts are with his widow, Carole.

 

Best Brewery Visits

Dark Star Brewery. A trip organised by my local CAMRA Branch to as a “thank-you” to all those who helped at the previous year’s Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival. This was my second visit to Dark Star, and I was surprise to see how much the brewery has expanded since my earlier trip, six year’s previously.  Being shown around by two member of the brewing team was a real bonus, and helped make the trip one of the most interesting I have been on.

Brauerei Schumacher, Düsseldorf.  The city’s oldest brewery and constructed on a traditional tower principle, Schumacher still uses open top fermenters and packages some of its beer into traditional wooden casks and, somewhat unusually, one litre swing-top bottles.

Our group tour took place on our last morning of our stay in Düsseldorf, and after being shown round the brewery we enjoyed a few beers in the attached restaurant/bar. Here we sampled Schumacher Alt, along with the brewery’s  1838er Anniversary Ale. Described as a hybrid pale/alt, the beer was brewed to celebrate Schumacher’s 175^th anniversary.

Best Beer Festivals

Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival 2017. Looking back I only attended the one beer festival last year, and that was the event my own (West Kent) CAMRA Branch organises, in conjunction with the SVR Heritage Railway. The unique selling point of the festival, is there are different beers available at the stations up and down the line, as well as on the trains themselves. This obviously encourages visitors to buy a ticket and enjoy a ride on the trains; so if you enjoy preserved railways, as well as beer, then I highly recommend this festival.

Great British Beer Festival.

I’ve included the event, even though I didn’t attend this year, as the comments I made in 2016 still hold true; especially those about the festival being far too crowded. There were also complaints about the beer prices which, if you take into account the admission charge, means GBBF has become a rather an expensive day out, (even for CAMRA members).

Given the phenomenal rise of craft-beer, there is also the vexed question of whether GBBF is missing out on something, and is it now time for the Campaign for Real Ale’s flagship event to focus on other types of beer?  It could then truly be said to represent the very best of British beer.

I also missed the 2017 Kent Green Hop Beer Festival, which takes place in Canterbury, in the shadow of the city’s historic stone walls. The festival aims to feature every Green Hop Beer produced by Kent breweries, but as our SVR Festival had made a real feature of Green Hop Beers,  I was able to sample a fair few of these beers on home turf, the following month.

In relation to this I was one of the judges in the competition we ran, to decide on the best Green Hop Beer of the SVR Festival, and this was a particularly enjoyable evening. At the tasting, we were joined by two distinguished guests in the guise of Sophie Atherton and Roger Protz; both well-known and highly respected beer writers.

 Sophie is also a qualified Beer Sommelier, and before the judging commenced, she ran through the basics of beer tasting, and told us what to look out for in a beer. I learned a lot about beer tasting from sitting on the same table as Sophie plus fellow judges from Pig & Porter and Cellar Head breweries.

Best Beer on Home Turf

Harvey’s Sussex Best. As previously, no beer comes close to beating Harvey’s Best.  For everyday drinking it is a real classic and one of the finest examples of a full-bodied and well-hopped southern bitter. If I could only choose one cask beer to drink for the rest of my days, this would be it.

Two local seasonal beers also ticked all the right boxes for me. Both of them are dark ales.

Long Man brewery Old Man, a fine mellow, traditional old ale, reminiscent of a strong mild, which has been quite widely available in the West Kent area this winter.

Larkin’s Porter, is stronger and packs in masses of flavour. Still my favourite winter beer by far,  this excellent  Porter makes this cold, and often depressing time of the year, much more bearable.

Best Beers Abroad

Hacker-Pschorr Festbier 6.0%,  enjoyed in the autumn sunshine, in the outdoor seating area of the Hacker-Festzelt, at the Munich Oktoberfest. My litre Maβ Krug slid down really well, and despite its high octane, I could quite easily have demolished another!

Gräfrather Klosterbräu Zwickl, an unfiltered Kellerbier, enjoyed whilst sitting out in the mid May sunshine, at the Gräfrather Klosterbräu brew-pub, on the way back to Solingen, during our Düsseldorf trip. This tasty, and full-bodied beer was served in a stoneware Maβ Krug, and was one of several excellent beers I enjoyed on that trip.

Bucket List

Oktoberfest – Munich

A visit to Oktoberfest had been on my wish-list for ages, and with a little serendipity coming into play, it was easily accomplished. (See Regensburg trip, above).   like I did for years. It is free to attend, and if you time your visit, as we did, to a midweek early afternoon,  you won’t need a reservation to get into the “tents”. If you haven’t been to the world’s best known beer festival, then go. Don’t make excuses and put it off

I won’t say anymore, as you can read about our visit here, but I will say the whole family enjoyed it, as there are other attractions such as fairground rides and sideshows, so Oktoberfest is not solely about beer drinking.

I didn’t manage to knock anything else off my bucket list (the one which isn’t written down and which changes on a fairly regular basis!), but I have a few things planned for 2018.

Best Locations to Enjoy a Beer

In the UK.

There were quite a few places where I enjoyed a beer over the course of last year. I think pride of place should go to the Greyhound at Charcott; a recently re-opened pub close to where I work, After years of barely ticking over, and then put up for sale as “suitable for development”, a local couple bought the place and have breathed new life into it. It is now a smashing place to enjoy a pint, and you can read more about it here.

Slightly further afield, the Windmill at Sevenoaks Weald continues to demonstrate how to run a successful village pub. With a good choice of mainly local cask ales, plus excellent food, the Windmill is another favourite haunt of mine.

Finally, special mention should be made of Fuggles, whose owner Alex Greig brought the successful formula he’d developed in Tunbridge Wells to nearby Tonbridge. Since opening back in August Fuggles has been packed most evenings, and is now delighting the good people of Tonbridge (including me), with a selection of beers which is second to none.

Further afield

Alte Linde, Regensburg, Bavaria. Set on an island over-looking the main branch of the River Danube, this lovely old pub was a real find. With its shady beer garden and views across to the old city, good and reasonably priced food, plus several  refreshing glasses of Kneitinger Edel-Pils, Alte Linde turned out to be an excellent place to spend a sunny, early afternoon.

It was every bit as good as the nearby Spitalgarten, which also overlooks the Danube.  Spitalgarten is much larger and can be quite raucous, but when Matt and I called in on our last afternoon in Regensburg, it was quiet and gave us that distinct feeling that the outdoor beer garden season was drawing to a close. 

Zum Uerige, Düsseldorf. Close to the River Rhine, this pub in the Altstadt looks quite modern, certainly on the outside, but once through the door the inside is like stepping back in time, with a maze of different inter-connecting rooms. On our first morning in Düsseldorf,  Matt and I sat outside, enjoying the warmth from the sun, whilst watching the people strolling by. A few glasses of the rather bitter, Uerige Altbier provided a good “pick me up”, after the previous night’s Altbier session.

Best Days Out

Several days stand out here, the first of which was a West Kent CAMRA trip to London to visit Kew Brewery and also By The Horns Brewery. Both breweries had picked up awards at the previous year’s Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival,  and the purpose of  the trip was to present them with their respective certificates. Using a London Travelcard, we took a train up to the capital, and then hopped on and off a variety of different buses and trains to visit both breweries, and also found time for a spot of lunch in between.

If I’m honest, Kew Brewery was a disappointment, as it is housed behind an anonymous looking shop front, and was rather chaotic and haphazard in nature. By contrast,  By The Horns Brewery was very good, and we spent a pleasant afternoon sitting outside their well-fitted out brewery tap.

The days’ highlight was our pre-arranged lunchtime stop at the Express Tavern, Kew Bridge. We arrived to find the back room reserved for our party, and the tables laid out ready for dinner. The Express Tavern was also a real delight to the eye. The character of this lovely old Victorian building has been maintained, and original features such as the old fireplace and bar counter have been kept.  

North Downs Way

I spent a couple of days walking two sections of the North Downs Way long-distance footpath, with three friends. The walks took place on consecutive weekends at the end of June, and we were blessed with fine weather; particularly on the first walk.

We enjoyed some contrasting scenery, ranging from open downland to dense woodland, and everything in between, as we followed the route along the Stour Valley between Wye and Chartham on the first walk, and then south across more open countryside from Shepherswell towards Dover, and the finish of this long distance footpath.

There were, of course, several good pubs along the way, and also a small beer festival, in Wye, at the end of the first walk. For one of my companions, us reaching Dover marked the completion, for him, of the 130 mile trail. Having completed the South Downs Way, eight years previously, I have now been inspired to have a go at the North Downs Way. As a prelude, I received a booklet of OS Maps in my Christmas stocking, outlining the trail from Farnham in the west to Dover in east.

Well, that’s probably more than enough to be going on with, so let’s see what next year brings us. Whatever you are doing this evening,  have a great New Year, and I'll be back with you in 2018.

2017 - The Year in Beer - A brief overview

As many of you will know by now, I don't do "Golden Pints", as the concept is a little past its sell-by date, and can come over as rather  naff. What I do instead is take a look back over the past year and reflect on the highlights, with a particular emphasis on beer and travel. As there's quite a bit to get through, I've decided to break things down into two parts. This first one is a brief overview of 2017. The second installment will look at a few specifics.

Like 2016, last year was quite tame, and something of a mixed bag. I did manage four separate visits to Germany; one of which was an unexpected business trip, but apart from a brief stop over in Belgium to change trains, that was the extent of my foreign travel. On the home front, nights away were largely confined to trips up to Norfolk to visit my father. Unfortunately dad’s Alzheimer’s is slowly getting worse, and sadly on each visit there seems to be less and less of the father I remember and love.

At the end of each year I like to look back at what I have achieved in various areas of my life. With just three and a half years before I reach state retirement age, there is still quite a lot to accomplish before I can swap the nine to five with something different, and potentially more rewarding. Part of my strategy is to complete the outstanding work on the house and pay off the mortgage.

The latter is progressing well, and there’s been some movement on the home-improvement front, although the major bathroom refurbishment has been put on hold until the new year. The delay this is not down to the inability of the great British workman to turn up when he’s supposed to, but rather because there is far too much choice in relation to wall tiles, bathroom suites and associated fittings, and it took Mrs PBT’s and I  rather a long time to choose.

Back in February, I succumbed to pressure from my son and his friend to accompany them to Munich. This was the first of last year’s visits to Germany, although the trip was slightly against my better judgement. This was because I view the Bavarian capital as a "summer city", and considered that the cold bleak days of February would not show the city in its best light.

I was correct in that assertion, but we still had a good time, and the boys enjoyed their visit to BMW Welt. They even persuade me to join the tour of the adjacent car plant; something which took a full two hours and several kilometres on foot to accomplish. I wouldn’t have minded the later had I not already been for a lengthy walk around the nearby Olympia Park.

I was back in the Federal Republic a month later; this time to the city of Cologne, on a business trip. I had been by my boss asked to step in at the last minute to help staff the company stand at the International Dental Show (IDS). This event, which takes place every two years, is the largest dental show in the world, and is a “must attend” event for any company involved in the field of dentistry.

Unlike previous shows, where we have driven over in a hired van, this year we shipped the exhibits over in advanced and travelled across to Cologne by train. This involved taking the Eurostar service from Ebbsfleet to Brussels, and then switching onto the Thalys train, direct to Cologne. This was a fast, comfortable and very civilised way to travel, with minimum check-in times at Ebbsfleet and just a 45 minute stop-over in Brussels. What’s more, there are no limits on baggage and no restrictions on liquids either.

We didn’t see much of Cologne, as the exhibition was very busy, and there were a couple of nights where we were dining out with customers. We’d all been to Cologne before though, so that didn’t really matter, and on the plus side we picked up several new overseas customers. We managed one night at a traditional Cologne beer hall, in the shape of Früh am Dom.

The place was absolutely rammed, but our waiter found us a table right in the bowels of the building. Our Polish colleague was pleased because she had her Schnitzel and Sauerkraut fix (so did I, as it happens).  I was pleased at the chance to down a fair  few Stanges of Kölsch.

I was back in Cologne two months later, this time as part of a group of CAMRA beer enthusiasts. The trip was actually to the neighbouring Rhineland city of Düsseldorf, but we spent a day in Cologne which included lunch at Malzmühle; a Kölsch brew-pub at the far end of the Alte Markt, which I had always wanted to visit on previous trips to the city, but never quite managed it.

Our day in Cologne also saw us visiting Brauerei Sünner, a traditional brewery on the other side of the River Rhine, and one where the Kölsch style of beer is said to have originated. After a fascinating tour around the brewery, we concluded with an excellent evening meal, at the small beer garden attached to the brewery.

Düsseldorf though was the main focus of our visit, and gave us the chance to enjoy the city’s own, unique style of beer, known as Alt Bier. The latter is a top-fermented, copper-coloured beer which, apart from being served on the cold side, is quite similar to an English ale. We sampled the majority of the Alt Biers produced in Düsseldorf, and we also managed a tour around Schumacher; the city’s oldest brewery (see Part Two).

The highlight of the Düsseldorf trip was the day out we had to the nearby conurbation of Solingen and Wuppertal. After travelling by trolley-bus (remember those), from the former to the latter, we had a ride on the highly unusual, Wuppertal Suspension Railway.

Known in German as the Schwebebahn, this 110 year old Suspension Railway operates at a height of around 40 feet above the River Wupper, and runs for a distance of just over 8 miles from Vohwinkel to Oberbarmen. We took advantage of this unusual mode of transport to visit the Wuppertaler Brauhaus; a large and spacious brew-pub, which occupies a former public swimming baths. On our return journey to Solingen, we visited another brew-pub in the in the small village of  Gräfrath. (See Part Two, best beers).

And so to our family holiday, and my fourth visit to  Germany. We again visited the unspoilt medieval city of Regensburg on the River Danube, in eastern Bavaria, and like the previous year, our took place at the end of September. However, whilst we had very little in the way of rain, the temperatures were much cooler than the previous year, but it was still a nice family break, in an attractive city. If you don’t know Regensburg, I can highly recommend a visit. 

We spent the first day of our holiday in Munich, having flown in the night before. Our stay just happened to coincide with Oktoberfest; that well known fortnight's celebration of beer and all things Bavarian. (See part Two, Bucket List).

To be continued.................................