Portsmouth, but what about Southsea?

We now return to the continuation of the recent tour of Portsmouth alehouses undertaken by myself and two legendary pub men - Paul Mudge and Dave Southworth. At the end of the previous post, you left us shortly after 1pm, at Portsmouth City Wall disappointed at finding that the Sally Port Inn didn’t open for a further two hours. There was nothing for it but to head for the next pub on the list, that being the Pembroke. On the way, we stopped at the City Wall for a brief look at the sea and following a spot of research I'm pleased to report that the portal in the wall is in fact the Sally Port and is in fact the feature from which the aforementioned pub, gets its name.

We walked a little further along on the landward side of the wall before heading inland past the large and open green space, of Governor’s Green. The Pembroke is located on a street corner, overlooking the green, and dates back to 1711. The pub became the Pembroke in 1900, having previously been known as the Little Blue Line. Its large, single room reflects the street corner aspect and as might be expected, its L-shaped bar is decorated, with naval memorabilia. I didn’t notice, until leaving, the signs below the windows describing the Pembroke as “Old Portsmouth’s Proper Pub”, but that was exactly what it was, and immediately the three of us felt the same. Without doubt, this basic and down to earth drinking establishment was that increasingly rare species, a proper stand-up-to-drink boozer, where decent beer, lively conversation and good company take pride of place.

There was proper beer too, in the form of Draught Bass, served alongside London Pride and GK Abbot. All three of us opted for the Bass and a mighty fine pint it was too. Served in proper, straight-sided glasses, bearing the famous Bass Red Triangle trademark, it was the perfect and most appropriate beer for this honest, working man’s local. Apart from the beer, and sense of camaraderie, there was little in the way of other attractions. As far as food was concerned, I was pleased to notice, a stack of cling-filmed cheese rolls (cobs if you prefer) on sale at the bar, from one of those see-through plastic containers.

On leaving the Pembroke we caught a glimpse of Portsmouth Cathedral, in the next block. According to Google, the cathedral has been a place of worship since the 12^th Century, although I was unaware that Portsmouth had such a building. If you look at the photograph, you can see the upper section of the Spinnaker Tower, poking up from behind the neighbouring buildings, making a perfect contrast between the old and the new. As we made our way towards the third pub, Dave remarked on how clean and tidy, Portsmouth looked, when compared to other towns, both here and in the US. The absence of litter, as well as that scourge of modern society the street “artists” with their spray-cans, mindless tags and squiggles, was another bonus. It amazes me why “graffiti” is given an air of respectability, by well-meaning people who describe such vandalism as art.

We headed off in a roughly easterly direction, ending up in Southsea, although it isn’t abundantly clear where the latter begins and Portsmouth ends. We eventually reached the Barley Mow, an unusual looking pub with an extensive ground floor extension, capped with a flat roof.  A number of signs around the exterior advertising the presence of cask ales, live music an award-winning patio garden give a taste of what to expect, although it definitely wasn't garden weather! The first impression, upon walking inside, was a substantial bar area, with wood-panelled walls, bedecked with numerous nautically themed, photographs, plus various items of assorted Bric a Brac. Guarding the fireplace was the model of a rather fierce looking witch.

The Barley Mow had an interesting selection of beers to tempt us with, including the ubiquitous London Pride, Gales HSB, GK Abbot, plus Hogs Back England’s Glory. It must be several years since I last had a Hogs Back beer, but it was obviously well worth the wait, and made a pleasant change from the other beers that we’d seen on sale, in other pubs. We found a table and sat down to enjoy our drinks. The pub wasn't exactly heaving but from the posters on the wall, plus the Barley Mow’s website, we soon ascertained that this was a real community pub. Other clues came from things such as quiz nights, live music evenings (Sunday and Thursday), weekly meat raffles, plus summer barbecues.

The next pub was the Hole in the Wall, situated in the next street. Described on the pub’s website as a “proper old local with wooden beams and a snug,” the Hole was virtually empty when we arrived, although it didn’t take long for things to liven up. It offers an ever-changing selection of cask beers, but the one that caught my fancy was Cinder Toffee Stout, from the New Bristol Brewery – but just a half, mind you! The pub is long and quite narrow, which might explain why I didn’t take any photos of the interior, but like the nearby Barley Mow, it’s obviously a popular place. Virtually next door, is a former Gales pub, as evidenced by the attractive tile work, spelling out G. Gale & Co’s Noted Horndean Ales.

Our final pub of the day was the King Street Tavern, a Wadworth pub, with interesting interior, and a wonderfully ornate, tiled exterior, which is the work of Portsmouth pub architect A E Cogswell. He was commissioned in the late 1880’s, by the pub’s former owners, Brickwood's Brewery, to come up with this attractive frontage, which has certainly stood the test of time. Today, this lovely, Grade II listed Victorian street corner local, is a perfect example of traditional pub architecture. In 2006 the pub was acquired by Wiltshire brewer, Wadworth of Devises, and renamed the King Street Tavern – clue, the pub is situated in King Street.

The pub’s interior is more contemporary in style, with wood panelled walls, green-coloured tiling behind the bar, and strategically placed, soft-lighting. Wadworth 6X was the cask beer of choice for the three of us, but an array of taps, on the rear wall, dispense “craft” beer for those who like that sort of thing. Furnishings are a mixture of traditional tables and chairs, plus upholstered bar stools and high tables. The King Street Tavern was starting to fill up when we arrived, and we were lucky to get a seat. We were also fortunate to secure some food, from the selection of American-themed menu – smokehouse ribs, brisket, burgers etc. My “dirty mac & cheese” was the right choice for keeping me going, and for soaking up some of the excess beer.

We called it a day there and made our way through the fading light to the city’s other station – Portsmouth & Southsea. We boarded the London-bound train, which called at Chichester on its way to the capital. Paul and Dave left the train there, and I thanked them both for their company over the past couple of days and said how much I had enjoyed the time we'd spent together. My onward journey was delayed by a points failure, just outside Gatwick station, but I was still back in Tonbridge before 9pm.

So, an excellent couple of days on the south coast, with some fine company. Now the only question left to answer, is where to next?

 

Verdigris - casual, riverside dining

I appreciate that a number of readers were looking forward to the next installment of my recent visit to Portsmouth, but I’ve a busy day ahead tomorrow, so not for the first time this week, I’m crying off on completing the Pompey article. Tomorrow I’m off on a boy’s day out with son and heir, Matthew – destination to be revealed after the event, and also when I’ve had time to write up our trip. Needless to say, the place we’re going to has some classic pubs, along with plenty of history. It’s also a relatively short train away.

What I’m doing instead, is to offer you a brief write up about a Tonbridge establishment that in many ways defies categorisation. It isn’t a pub, although it once was, in fact it this attractive looking, later Victorian building was once one of the town’s premier inns. Today, the former Castle Hotel, is a restaurant, cum-cocktail bar, combined with a riverside terrace, overlooking the River Medway. Judging by the scaffolding outside, a substantial sum is being spent renovating this attractive looking building, and not before time.

The Castle Hotel was built in 1888, following the reconstruction, and widening of the Great Bridge, across the River Medway. The first public house on the site, was constructed in 1759, by the Medway Navigation Company, a powerful organisation that controlled traffic on the river, charging tolls for vessels passing through the various locks, and for loading and unloading cargoes, such as timber, iron ore as well as finished goods. To this end, there were once numerous wharf buildings lining both sides of the river, to the east of the Great Bridge.

The Castle Inn started life as a simple beer house for MNC employees working on the river. They were paid 12 shillings a week and allowed a free jug of beer every day, but following the construction of the new Great Bridge, the old inn was demolished, and the "Castle Inn" then became the "Castle Hotel." The pub was under threat of development in early 1960’s, but appears to have been reprieved, following a change of mind by the then owning brewery, Courage & Barclay.

Things the remained much the same, and when I first came to Tonbridge, initially to work, and then later to live, the Castle was a typical Courage tied house of the period, that had seen better days. Since then, the establishment has had a varied history and for a period was known as the Castle Gold Bar. It then became “Graze”, for a while, but despite its central location on the High Street, opposite the castle, it never seemed to achieve its true potential. This was surprising given its setting by the river, with its own terraced area.

I'm not sure when the former Castle became "Verdigris", a food-focused cocktail bar, but it has definitely brought something unique to Tonbridge. Enjoy casual riverside dining with views of Tonbridge Castle and relax as you watch the world go by. The bar specializes in fine wines and cocktails, so there's no cask ale. However, the Bavarian-brewed Hofmeister Helles lager on keg is well worth trying.

The building has had significant money spent on it and, as mentioned above, is currently surrounded by scaffolding for maintenance. In its later years, the Castle was notorious for the amount of pigeon droppings on the roof and first-floor windows, so it's good to see the building finally receiving the care it desperately requires. I visited one afternoon a couple of weeks ago to have a coffee and look around. The atmosphere was quiet and relaxing, with an unhurried feel about the place. I found a comfortable armchair and sat, watching the world go by.

I cannot comment on the food personally, but I have seen mixed reviews. Mrs. PBT and a few of her friends dined there some years ago, before the pandemic, and comments were made about the portion sizes, but that was over five years ago, and things may have changed since then. On the other hand, a friend from CAMRA praised Verdigris highly, remarking on the quality of the food on offer. Although it might not be my choice for a full meal, despite its fine dining reputation, in the summer, it seems like an excellent place to enjoy a relaxing pint of Hofmeister by the river, watching the boats go by. It would be an enjoyable way to spend a couple of hours on a summer afternoon.

That’s all for now folks, but I shall be catching up with readers, later in the week.

 

Portsmouth - first impressions, plus a classic pub with annoying opening times

We now come to the second day of my South Coast mini-break, and despite the late-night road works going on close to the Chichester Inn (installing a Dutch-style roundabout) I had a reasonable night’s sleep. I awoke at around 7am, feeling refreshed and raring to go. The outlook from my room, across a grey and rather dreary looking Chichester, was perhaps to be expected for mid-February, but the greyness was tempered by me looking forward to travelling across to Portsmouth later that morning.

There wasn't a huge rush to get up because Stafford Paul and I weren’t due to meetup with Dave and Joan until 11am. Before doing anything else, I made myself a cup of tea, something I do every morning, regardless of where I am in the world. After a quick shower, I packed up my trusty, small red rucksack – the one that has been my faithful companion on various hikes across southern England. I’d certainly travelled light this time around, taking inspiration, from Christine Taylor’s excellent, One Small Bag website. I then headed down to the bar ready for a full English breakfast, which I knew would set me up for a walk around Portsmouth and fortify me against the chilly February weather.  

Paul was already there, and getting tucked into his breakfast. He was looking pleased because the landlord had furnished him with a nice large pot of coffee. After checking my breakfast drink requirements, mine host brought me an equally large, and most welcome pot of tea. As is common in many B&B establishments, breakfast was cooked to order, and when it arrived the plate was nice and hot, which is always a good sign! What really made it special, was the quality of the ingredients, a point I emphasise when out to breakfast with son Matthew.  

Quality comes across in the taste of the ingredients, especially the bacon and the sausages – something you just don’t get with cheap, mass-catering packs from the Cash & Carry. Mrs PBT’s agrees with me on this one, in fact she is the one responsible in our house, for the maxim, "you get what you pay for", and if we could instill this one point into our son and heir, it will be an important life lesson learned. (Cost considerations, of course, play a part here, but if finances allow, it is usually worth splashing out a little bit extra, especially where quality is concerned!). Whether young master Matt takes this on board, remains to be seen, but if he does, then maybe he will thank us one day.

Moving swiftly on, Paul and I enjoyed a leisurely, and very satisfying top-notch breakfast, which was spun out by the plentiful supply of tea and coffee we’d be provided with. There was just the two of us left in the bar by the time we'd finished, and we spent the time chatting partly about pubs, but mainly about the Campaign for Real Ale. We touched on memorable events associated with the campaign, both  past as well as present,  including various AGM’s we'd attended, (Paul is way ahead of me there), and some of the much-missed characters who seemed to come and go. CAMRA certainly attracted plenty of them and I think we both surprised each other bringing up name after name, as well as the foibles associated with many of these people, and how they helped shape the campaign, particularly in the early years.

Once the drinks were finished and the conversation had slowed down, it was time to make a move. I collected my rucksack from the room, ready to check out, but Paul was due to stay another night at the Chichester Inn and would be travelling back to Stafford the following morning. I believe he was planning to stop off in London on the way, where he had a number of carefully selected "heritage pubs" to visit. 

After handing back my room key, and thanking the landlord for a most pleasant stay, I headed off into town, with Paul, towards the station. We hadn't gone far before bumping into Dave, who was heading towards us. He was alone, as Joan had decided to enjoy a quiet day back at their Airbnb, so the three of us continued on to the station. A little grumble here regarding the new style tickets recently introduced on Southern Trains, which sees thin, flimsy paper replacing the card ones, that have been in universal use across the rail network for decades. Promoted as "kinder on the environment", but rather too easy to lose, or mislay, as Dave discovered, although fortunately he found his ticket, in the end.  

The train journey of just over half an hour, took us through the relatively flat coastal area of West Sussex, and into Hampshire. As a bonus the sun was peeping out from behind the clouds, which was the first time I’d seen it for several weeks. There was still a cold wind blowing, as we discovered when we alighted from the train at Portsmouth Harbour, but spirits were running high, and we were looking forward to getting to sampling a few of Portsmouth’s finest public houses. I'd been lazy again and had left the planning of the trip to Paul and Dave, and they came up with a good selection. The plan was to work our way from the harbour station and then make our way back slowly towards Portsmouth & Southsea - the other main rail station in the city. On the way we would be calling in at the pubs selected by the two pub men.

As mentioned in the previous post, I’d been to Portsmouth once before, but that was almost 60 years previously. Consequently, there was nothing of the city that I recognised, and that includes the iconic harbour – spiritual home of the Royal Navy. As we exited the harbour station, we could see the sea with the recently restored, Victorian warship, HMS Warrior taking pride of place. Launched in 1860, HMS Warrior was the world's first iron-hulled warship, and was larger, faster, and more heavily armoured than any ship before her. Her impressive size and firepower made her a symbol of British naval supremacy. We couldn’t see Portsmouth’s most famous preserved ship, HMS Victory because that is berthed in a dry dock, on the other side of the National Museum of the Royal Navy. The Victory is undergoing an extensive renovation so we wouldn’t have been able to have visited it, anyway. Nelson’s flagship is probably the only thing that I do remember from that 1969 visit.

As far as pubs were concerned, we were aiming for a Fuller's pub situated at Camber Dock, on the opposite quayside to the Isle of Wight car ferry terminal. It took a bit of finding, and we had to double back on ourselves at one point, but the Bridge Tavern was well worth the effort. The pub overlooks the water, and there were several boats moored up next to the quayside. Some were so close that, if you wanted, you could literally jump on board. Dave found this area particularly interesting given his experiences, several decades ago, of working on a lobster fishing boat, operating out a Maine port – possibly Portland.

We were not disappointed with the Bridge Tavern, where the nautical theme extended into the pub’s interior. There was an impressive bar counter, set towards rear of the building and a number of alcoves leading off either side. We sat, close to the window, in one of these, from where we had an excellent view of the nautical scene outside stop. I opted for a pint of Gale’s Seafarers, a beer we don't often see in Kent, but HSB was also available, alongside the ubiquitous London Pride – and before RM asks the question, I have no idea as to whether the Pride was “drinking well.”

We had an interesting chat, which included quizzing Dave about his time spent lobster fishing, before deciding to move on to the next pub. This was supposed to be the Sally Port Inn, a famous Portsmouth pub created in 1947 from a war damaged residence, dating back to the 1600's. Situated just a few yards from the seawall, in the midst of Old Portsmouth's High Street, the pub takes its name from the gate in the fortified section of the seawall, which is known as the “sally port”. There was some uncertainty regarding the pub’s opening times, but a visit to the Sally Port confirmed this was 3pm, as listed in What Pub. 

 

This was a shame, as from the outside, at least, the pub looked well worth visiting, but for those interested in the cold war, tales of espionage and the charismatic naval diver, Commander Buster Crabb RN, there’s a fascinating piece about Cdr. Crabb, who disappeared after embarking on a secret mission to investigate a Soviet warship, as part of a unauthorised spying exercise. Crabb had spent the night, prior to his disappearance, at the Sally Port. So, it was best foot forward and off to the next pub. 

 

Our route took us down to the water's edge, just below the sea defences of Portsmouth City Wall, and whilst I didn’t think to take a photo, right by the seawall, and adjacent to the Falklands Campaign Memorial, here was a small portal in the stonework, which led onto a paved walkway, overlooking the sea. Could this have been the Sally Port? (Yes, it was!) The sea looked rather choppy, and undoubtedly very cold, but there were a couple of hardy souls sea fishing off the break water. This was a hobby I dabbled in during my youth, and whilst never really catching much, it was an activity I enjoyed during my early teenage years, and it is one Matthew and I have had several attempts at, in more recent times.  You have to get used to being cold. Not just cold, but bl**dy cold!!

Well with four more pubs to write about, it make sense to draw the narrative to a close here, and continue next time, as I describe the remaining quartet of Portsmouth pubs, each with their own charm and unique character.

Chichester, second time around

Right, here we go with an account of the day that Stafford Paul and I spent in Chichester, in the company of Dave and Joan Southworth. As alluded to in the previous post, the couple were spending some time in the UK, a country I discovered they have been visiting for the past couple of decades. Paul had arranged to meet up with the pair, and had asked if I would like to join the group for a couple of days exploring the pubs of both Chichester and nearby Portsmouth. The Fountain, in South Street, Chichester, was the pre-arranged meeting point, because of its proximity to the railway station. The Fountain is bright and airy, with staff that come across as welcome and friendly.  It is also the first establishment in Chichester that son Matthew and I had visited 15 months previously, and fortunately it seemed largely unchanged, and this applies to the separate bar at the rear of the building, as well.

My train arrived, shortly after midday, so after a brisk stroll through the chilly streets, I made my way to this pleasant, Hall & Woodhouse pub. Paul was waiting for me at the pub, and through the window, I could see him waiting in the front bar. He bought me a very welcome pint of Badger Best, a beer that is something of a rarity in Kent, these days. Paul explained that due to constraints of Progressive Beer Duty (a scheme originally introduced to assist small brewer, start-ups, to get a foothold in the market),  Hall & Woodhouse have stopped selling draught beer into the free trade, and now only supply their own pubs. (They still provide bottled beer to supermarkets, though).

Shortly after, Joan and Dave arrived, and following a brief introduction, we all adjourned to a nearby table, where we could sit and chat, whilst enjoying our drinks.  We also had a good view of the various comings and goings at the bar. The couple had been in England for a while, and had spent some time in Bath, before driving across to Chichester. They’d found an Airbnb place where they would be basing themselves for next part of this particular UK trip. Dave and Joan were amicable and engaging, and it was good to make their acquaintance. Before long it seemed as if we had known each other for a long time.

Paul had sketched out a loose itinerary for us to follow, which first involved finding a pub where we could eat. That was the point where I brought up the online “ribbing” I had received from Cooking Lager, a character that Dave is quite familiar with after browsing various UK based beer blogs. The Bell Inn, at the far end of North Street, and just beyond the northern boundary of the inner ring road, was the pub earmarked for lunch, but with the pub observing the once common practice of afternoon closing, we knew that we’d have to be quick. Paul and I led the way, as we headed up passed the Chichester Cross, before risking life and limb attempting to cross the busy ring road, although had we been a little more observant, we’d have noticed the presence of a handy, and much safer underpass.

The Bell prides itself on being one of the more traditional pubs in Chichester, although that description could easily apply to several other pubs in the city. Its white-painted exterior gives way to a cosy and comfortable interior featuring exposed brickwork, wood panelling, and plenty of oak beams, but its downside was the limited opening times, during the day. According to What Pub, opening times are very much linked to performances at the nearby Festival Theatre. Paul and I arrived some time ahead of Dave and Joan and ordered ourselves a pint each. British IPA from Bowman Ales hit the spot, although I have to confess, I had completely forgotten about this Hampshire brewery, who have been around since 2006.

Aware that the Bell closes for the afternoon, we thought it wise to order lunch. Paul chose a chicken curry and knowing my fondness for pies, brought the “Pie of the Day” option on the menu, to my attention. This was when the barman reminded us of the 2pm closing time. No pressure, then? I’m not a person who likes rushing his food, so taking into account preparation and cooking time, I opted for something that was simpler, and quicker to cook. A plate of cheesy chips was a poor substitute for a pie, but it was the right choice given the way the bar staff started clearing away plates and tidying tables, as the 2 o’clock deadline approached. Dave and Joan had arrived by this time, but unfortunately, they had missed the kitchen closing deadline and had to make do with a few packets of crisps. Obviously, the pub does what it knows will work best, but such an early, end of week closing didn’t make much sense to us. This was a shame, as the Bell had a nice, cosy feel to it, and it would have been nice to have stayed a while longer.

So, where to next? And the answer came in the form of the Park Tavern located opposite the city’s Priory Park. Matthew and I had missed out last time, on this attractive, white painted Fuller’s pub, with its cosy, and welcoming, bare board interior, divided into a number of more intimate, drinking areas. As well as beers from the Fuller’s and Gales’s stable, a guest ale from Butcombe took my fancy, especially as it was a new one for me to “tick” on Untappd. Adam Henson’s Rare Breed Pale Ale ticked all the right boxes, in spite of its modest 3.8% strength, and proved a perfect mid-afternoon pint. If you’ve watched BBC’s Countryfile over the years, you will know about Adam Henson, who has inherited his father’s passion and determination to help save some of the country’s rarest breeds of farm animals from extinction.

If the Park Tavern was a relaxing place to spend a chilly, mid-February afternoon, then the same, and more, could be said of the nearby Hole in the Wall. As well as a beer range drawn from a number of highly respected, independent brewers, the pub offers several beers from Esher (posh Surrey) based, Big Smoke Brew Co. I made the same mistake as I did on my previous visit, by failing to spot the other bank of hand pulls, plus the wall of keg taps, to the left of the brick pillar that divides up the bar counter. Missing out on a half dozen or so Big Smoke beers, I opted instead for a pint of Tacoma American Pale Ale from 360° Brewing.

The pub was ticking over nicely and was just the place for a late afternoon session, except that it wasn’t a session. I was increasingly conscious that I hadn’t yet checked into my overnight accommodation, which was the Chichester Inn, on the other side of the city. Actually, not far away, at all, and as I’d phoned the pub earlier that day, to confirm I was definitely coming that day, there wasn’t any real hurry.  Apart from the fact I was feeling a little peckish, because all I’d had to eat that day was a couple of slices of toast, plus that bowl of cheesy chips.

We took the decision to head off to the Chichester Inn so that I could check in, and get a decent meal down my neck, but this is where everything becomes a little hazy. I say that because I can’t remember whether Dave and Joan came with us or headed back to their Airbnb. I suspect the latter, but remain unsure, the beer perhaps having finally addled my brain. I’ve pieced together the rest of the evening’s events from the times shown on my photos.

To start with, check-in, go up to my room, unpack (not that there was much to do there, as I travelled very lightly), phone home and catch up with Mrs PBT’s, and then go back down to the bar where I joined Stafford Paul for a chicken burger and chips, plus a pint of Langham Session IPA. We both turned in early, and in my case, I was tucked up in bed before 9pm. I’m not sure why I felt so tired, although I had experienced a rather hectic few days at work, in the run up to this trip. 

My room was warm, cosy and comfortable, as the photo shows, and the following morning I was raring to go. We’ll leave things there for now, and catch up in the next post, which is all about Portsmouth – the second, and final destination on this two-day mini-break.