Journey south along the Great North Road, before becoming stuck in the Big Smoke

Apart from the two posts I wrote whilst we were in Northumberland last week, I haven’t written much on the blog recently, This isn’t down to laziness or indifference, but more so because we left our return to Tonbridge until the last possible minute. We arrived home at around 4 pm on Sunday afternoon, and with work the following morning, there’s been very little time for writing. It's a similar situation to when we returned from our Mediterranean cruise, back in June when following a Sunday return to England, I drove home from Southampton, and went straight back into work the following morning.

We began our long journey home on Saturday, departing Alnwick shortly after 10 am, and what followed was a long and rather boring drive, interrupted by patches fog and occasional hold ups due road works. We stopped for a comfort break at Wetherby Services, a facility that was absolutely rammed with travelers like us, no doubt after the same thing. The services are just off the A1M, so perhaps there was some local traffic, or maybe it was just the time of day, but there seemed to be an awful lot of people making a similar journey to us.

Suitably refreshed, we continued our journey passing turnings to places such as Ferrybridge, Doncaster, Sheffield, Newark and Stamford. It wasn't a bad journey, although it was exceedingly boring, so I was relieved when we reached our next pit-stop, the American-themed OK Diner, close to Grantham. This is an establishment we’ve stopped at a couple of times before, and for the record, on our outward journey, we called in at another OK Diner, at Tickencote, on the opposite carriageway. Mrs PBT’s prefers this one, but the diner on the southbound carriageway, is more spacious.

We parked the car and traipsed inside. After a week of Premier Inn catering, the OK Diner made a pleasant change, although both Eileen and I were quite restrained in our choice of food - a doorstep bacon sandwich each, although I did supplement mine with a fried egg. Matthew, being younger and possessing a bigger appetite, went the whole hog, and ordered a large breakfast, even though it was the middle of the afternoon.  His mother was becoming slightly concerned about his eating, because he had a full-English most mornings at the Premier Inn we were staying at, and even his father wouldn’t do that!

Leaving the diner, we set off on relatively short drive to the junction of the A1 and A14 close to the town of Huntingdon. Looking at the map we were now just under 100 miles from home and could comfortably have driven the whole distance. We’d already decided to break our journey and had pre-booked into yet another Premier Inn. That decision was partially based on distance involved, but more so on the race track that is the M25, as it approaches the Dartford Crossing. As it happened, it was the right decision, even though the following day’s drive ended up having issues of its own.

The Huntingdon Premier Inn was bland, like all the rest, and with no twin rooms available, the bed was too narrow for the pair of us, but with a McDonald’s bacon roll each to keep us going, we set off mid-morning for what ought to have a been a short, and fairly leisurely drive back to Kent. Unfortunately, as we turned south onto the M11 towards the M25, there were various illuminated signs warning that the latter motorway was closed between junctions 29 and 30. I turned to the person who was navigating (Mrs PBT’s), to check where those two junctions were. She confirmed my worst suspicion that the closure was just before the Dartford Crossing.

As we got nearer to the London Orbital Motorway, there were signs warnings of long delays due to the necessary diversions, so thinking on my feet – or backside, as I was sitting down, I announced to the family that we would remain on the M11, all the way into east London and then cross the Thames via the Blackwall Tunnel. What could possibly go wrong? We made our way towards the tunnel, all the time ignoring Eileen’s sat nav, which was trying to route us back to the M25.  As we neared the tunnel approach, I noticed to my horror a sign saying that the southbound Blackwall Tunnel was closed. Surely some mistake, as they say, or even some kind of prank, but there was no joke, and the tunnel was well and truly closed! Now, I appreciate that the UK’s road network has to go undergo regular maintenance from time to time, but why not coordinate closures rather than allow them to happen at the same time? Talk about a ridiculous coincidence, and complete lack of forward planning.

We were then left with the dilemma of how to get cross the River Thames. I initially thought of heading toward Tower Bridge, when Eileen suggested the Rotherhithe Tunnel. Despite many years of visiting the capital and traveling in a north – south direction, this was a crossing I'd never used, and with good reason. Although the Rotherhithe opened a decade after the Blackwall, it remains a single-bore tunnel that was designed for the traffic at the time – horse-drawn carriages, and rudimentary automobiles, rather than modern vehicles. Its narrow bore, plus a number of bends, mean the tunnel is restricted to private cars, and given that the latter have increased in size over the past few decades, the crossing leaves little room for drive error.

It took the best part of an hour to reach the tunnel entrance, thanks to road works affecting the A13, East India Dock Road. The traffic was scarcely moving in fact it took us an hour to travel to a distance of just a few miles hello somewhat delightedly we came up on the entrance to the Rotherhithe almost by accident. The tunnel lived up to its reputation of being narrow with just the one lane in either direction and several twists and turns, so it was a relief when we surfaced on the Surrey side of the Thames. and continued to navigate our way down to pick up the road that would take us back to Kent. We ended up driving along the A200, through Deptford and Greenwich, although looking at the map afterwards, we’d have been better picking up the A2 to the south of it.

Not only would that road have been more familiar, it would probably have been carrying less traffic. I can't remember the last time I'd driven in London although it must be about 40 years ago. The standard of driving certainly hadn't improved but far worse than the four-wheel vehicles were the scooters employed by fast food companies such as Deliveroo, Uber or Just Eat. With scant regard for their own safety, they were weaving in and out of the traffic until it reached the stage of, "if you're stupid enough to cut in front of me, you can suffer the consequences if I accidentally knock you off."

Fortunately, nothing of that nature occurred, but as with the other side of the Thames, we crawled our way towards our destination and before long a comfort stop was needed for the driver. We were also getting low on fuel, even though there would have been ample for the clear run home I’d originally envisaged. Fortunately, just the other side of Greenwich I found a BP filling station, with a well-stocked shop and, most importantly, some nice clean toilets! The petrol was considerably cheaper than back home so after filling one tank and draining another, we continued on our way and eventually found our way out of the metropolis and onto the A2.

From there it was onto the M25 and back into Kent. We made a quick diversion into Tesco's at Riverhead, to pick up essentials such as bread and milk, eventually arriving home just after 4 pm. After that battle through the London traffic, I knew we’d definitely made the right decision by breaking the journey at the Premier Inn in Huntington.  It was straight back to work the following morning, just as it was after our cruise, back in June, and I haven’t really stopped since.

I appreciate this post doesn’t have much to do with pubs and beer, although it does involve a fair amount of descriptive writing about state of our overcrowded road system, the number of cars on the road and the occasional lunatic driver. Normal service though, will be resumed soon.

 

 

To Alnwick and back

Northumberland is an area of the country that I’ve never been to before, but have wanted to visit for a long time. I’ve travelled through the area by train, on several occasions, on visits by rail to Edinburgh, and certainly on the first trip between the English and Scottish capitals on the East Coast mainline, the coastal views from the window, as the train sped steadily northwards, were enough to fire my imagination, and inspire me to add Northumberland to my list of “must see” locations.

Earlier this year, I’d been talking with my neighbour over the fence, as you do, when the subject of holidays came up. My neighbour recounted that he had recently returned from a holiday in Northumberland, staying in a rented property, overlooking the coast with his partner, and a few of their friends. Terry told me how quiet the beaches had been, and how little traffic there was on the roads. They’d all enjoyed a really good holiday, and he would thoroughly recommend the area as a good place for a holiday.

Mrs PBT’s and I had been thinking of a post summer break, for some time, and with the idea of taking son Matthew with us, Northumberland seemed the ideal location. It would also tick another box for on my list of places to visit. Eileen seemed quite taken with the idea, particularly when I said we could make a brief visit across the border into Scotland. Consequently, I started researching suitable locations to visit and, just as importantly, places to stay. I also looked at breaking both the outward and return journeys, bearing in mind the 300+ mile drive, each way.

With regard to places to stay, it was always going to be Alnwick, centrally located, off the main A1 trunk road, and just a short distance from the North Sea coast. From the various articles and reviews I read, it also looked an attractive place in which to base ourselves, At Mrs PBT’s suggestion – or should that be insistence, I booked stays at three different Premier Inns, to take account of the aforementioned breaks of journey. For the record, the stopovers were Harrogate on the outward trip, and Huntingdon on the return.

The Alnwick Premier Inn is a recent addition to the chain, and unlike its stablemate at Harrogate, was adequately staffed. It was a 25-minute walk into the centre of town, although by way of a change from the limited range of beers stocked by the hotel bar, there was a substantial, stone-built, multi-room, pub, called the Oaks Hotel, done out in Jennings’s livery. Unsurprisingly it didn’t stock any Jenning’s beers, and no Marston’s ones for that matter. Matthew and I made a number of after-dinner visits, where alongside Taylor’s Landlord, the cask selection swapped from Hadrian -Tyneside Blonde to Alnwick Brewery Amber.

Speaking of the latter, we called in at the Alnwick Brewery Tap, housed in a comfortable, stone-built former barn, in a rural spot roughly halfway between Alnwick and Alnmouth. It was a rather wet, windy and rather miserable day when we called in (the only bad day of the holiday), so the log-burner, blazing away brightly in the corner, helped add a welcome homely touch to the place. I purchased a selection of Alnwick bottles to take home with me.

As well as trips out – including that promised excursion into Scotland, we enjoyed a couple of days looking round Alnwick, which proved to be am attractive and well-laid out town, that is dominated by the imposing and majestic, stone-built, early, 14^th century castle, owned by the Percy family since 1309, and one of the largest inhabited castles in the UK today. As well as the heritage and real history (the Percy family are the Duke & Duchess of Northumberland), Alnwick Castle has been a filming location for Downton Abbey, Dungeons & Dragons – thought that was a game? and two Harry Potter films.

Surrounding the castle ramparts, are some substantial and well-laid out gardens. We didn’t pay to enter either, partially due to Mrs PBT’s mobility issues, but also because it seemed somewhere that was worthy of an entire day being spent on it.  One of the gatekeepers advised us that the best area for taking photos of the castle, was on the other side of the town, so we took the advice, and did exactly that before heading back to the hotel.

Putting the castle to one side for a moment, what we particularly liked about Alnwick was its excellent selection of independent shops, pubs, bars, and places where one could grab a decent coffee. The people were obviously friendly – it was the north-east, after all, but the biggest bonus as far as we were concerned, was the free (in most cases) car-parking. Having to pay to park one’s car, is a really divisive issue where we live in Tonbridge, something made worse recently by a local council driven by a scrooge-like mentality, that has recently extended the times where charges apply, to include evenings and Sundays.

I mentioned in the previous article about having failed to visit Bamburgh and its equally famous castle, although with us due to return home tomorrow (Saturday), that will have to wait for another occasion, as will Holy Island (Lindisfarne). For anyone planning a trip to this unspoilt part of the country, Eileen and I can thoroughly recommend Alnwick as a base. And for those who don’t fancy driving, especially if you live at the opposite end of the UK, why not take the train instead and then travel around the area by bus? I haven’t done the research myself, but I know someone who has, and based on what he told me, plus the number of buses we saw, even in quite remote locations, leads me to believe that Northumberland is quite doable by bus, and is even better if, like me, you have a bus pass.

We departed Alnwick this morning, driving 245 miles to our current resting place, the Premier Inn at Huntingdon. It's not actually in the town itself, but instead is situated on a service area between the A1 and the A14. Unlike the Premier we left behind at Alnwick, the one we're now staying at is older, and is similar in design, style and appearance the one where we began our trip North - the Premier Inn at Harrogate south. There the similarity ends, as a stone's throw from this particular outlet, is a stand alone Brewer's Fayre, called the Brampton Hut, which is where we ate this evening.

It might sound boring and lazy, but we've had an evening meal at a Premier Inn every night, except the first, and that one was the Harrogate south outlet. It's not haute-cuisine, and it's not exactly artisanal cooking either, but it's well thought out, and cooked with fresh and high quality ingredients. Mrs PBT's isn't much of a pub-goer, and after driving each and every day, I didn't really fancy acting as chauffeur either. Various cut-price offers are available at the Brampton, that weren't on the menu at Alnwick, but there was still plenty that appealed to us. It's back to Kent in the morning, and back to work the following day, but it's been an enjoyable and relaxing family break.

 

 

 

 

Some premier family time in Northumberland

The Bailey family are on holiday, and it is a rare occasion for all three of us to be away from home at the same time. We’ve driven up to Northumberland, all the way from Kent stopping off for the night at Harrogate, in order to break the journey. There will be a similar arrangement next Saturday, on the return journey, with a night at Huntingdon (junction of A1 and A14) pre-booked.

Three different Premier Inns are involved as part of this trip, with the main one being our current resting place at Alnwick. It’s turned out to be a good choice, but then again, it’s a new hotel, unlike the one at Harrogate where we stayed on Sunday evening. The hotel was looking a bit tired, but that wasn’t a problem, instead the issue which seemed to get everyone’s goat was the lack of hot food in the evening.

I found out the hard way, when I called in at the restaurant shortly after our arrival, in order to book a table. I discovered, to my horror that unless I’d pre-ordered a “meal deal” in advance, the family and I would be unable to eat. I was told it would be fine to have a drink in the pub, but we all wanted something more substantial than crisps or nuts. Talking further to the staff member acting as “front of house” I learnt that Premier Inns are closing a significant number of the pubs attached to the hotels and converting them into additional accommodation. This arrangement only applies to those outlets where the pub/restaurant forms an integral part of the building. 

So, in the case of Premier Inn’s Harrogate South outlet, the former pub, that was popular with, and well patronised by, local people, as well as hotel guests, is basically no more. Staff had already received redundancy notices, and the rump restaurant, plus the hotel, were ticking over with a skeleton crew. Understandably, morale was at an all time low, so the workforce could obviously be forgiven, if their hearts weren’t exactly in it. 

As for our meal that night, the fact that we’d checked in on a Sunday didn’t help, as the only restaurant within easy walking distance - a rather good-looking Italian place was closed. The worthy citizens of Harrogate must be proper god-fearing folk, for not trading on the Lord’s Day!  Of course, there was nothing stopping me from jumping in the car and driving off in search of a fast-food outlet, but having just completed a 200 + mile journey up from Kent, driving was the last thing I felt like doing. Matthew had better luck though, as he managed to get a Domino’s Pizza delivered, courtesy of Just Eat.

I was up bright and early the following morning, and set off, on foot, in search of some breakfast. Google Maps showed there was an M&S Foodhall, just 10 minutes’ walk away, which meant I was able to bring home the bacon for myself and the rest of the family, even if it was just a couple of bags of croissants! I’d probably got the better deal, as one couple Mrs PBT’s spoke to just after we checked out, reported that the breakfast was poor value to money. Gone was the “all you can eat” option, replaced by a carefully proportioned “rationed” offer of a single rasher of bacon, a fried egg, a single sausage, plus two slices of toast.

The harassed staff member I spoke to the previous evening said the hotel was struggling with staff number, following a round of redundancies – hardly conducive to running an efficient business in the cutthroat hospitality business. She told me the hotel was struggling to operate with reduced staffing levels, and whilst she was doing her best to remain upbeat, there did seem to be an air of despondency about the place.

The following day, we drove a further 116 miles along the crowded and  at times, very busy A1, to the pleasant market town of Alnwick, our base for the next five days. I have never been this far north in England before, although I have travelled through the area, by train several times, on visits to Edinburgh. Those journeys along the East Coast Mainline highlighted the beauty of this stretch of coastline, and as mentioned in another post, a conversation with our neighbour, over the garden fence helped make up our minds to visit Northumberland  on our next UK trip away.

The drive up to Alnwick took longer than planned, due to roadworks in the Newcastle area – next time we shall listen to what the Sat-Nav is telling us. Fortunately, the town’s Premier Inn exceed our expectations, and was in a different league to the one we had left behind in Harrogate. 

Modern, and functionally stylish, the hotel offered everything that the one in Harrogate could not, which is just as well, given that we booked in for a five night’s stay. Although it is necessary to pre-book an evening meal at Alnwick, its modern restaurant, with its well-thought-out food offering, demonstrates just what was missing at Harrogate. Perhaps once the alterations have taken place at the latter, the outlet will find its mojo again and get back on its feet.

We’ve one more Premier Inn to experience on this holiday, and that is the one at Huntingdon. But as that is just a stopover on our journey home, it doesn’t really matter, as long as it is clean and not too noisy. Our experiences with the Premier chain this week, highlight the differences existing within a chain that is built on providing a standardised approach to the overnight hospitality business. They also reinforce my approach to staying away from home, which is to go for an independent outlet, even if it does mean taking the occasional punt.

As far as the local attractions are concerned, we are really impressed with Alnwick. In addition, we've enjoyed a walk along the lovely, unspoilt, sandy beach at Alnmouth, had a posh fish-finger sandwich, plus a pint of locally brewed Tyneside Blonde from Hadrian & Border Brewery, at the Olde Ship Inn at Seahouses, where we sat out soaking up the sun in the secluded spot behind the pub, overlooking the harbour.

We also made a short trip across the border into Scotland. Stopping for coffee and cake at the harbour side village of Eyemouth, the first settlement of any size as you cross into Scotland. It was very pleasant sitting out in the warm early September sunshine, looking out across the narrow harbour.  There were even a couple of seals swimming lazily in the water. We found a baker’s selling coffee and some rather nice cakes, before embarking on the return journey back to Alnwick, via Berwick.

Disappointingly, we failed in our quest to visit Bamburgh, as both roads leading into the village from the A1 were closed by roadworks. Similarly, the sheer volume of traffic, heading back along the narrow road from Holy Island, plus the warning warnings about not getting caught out on the causeway by the tide, put us off from visiting Lindisfarne.

There’s still time for another attempt at Holy Island, although not today, as the weather has taken a turn for the worse, with drizzle blowing in from the North Sea. Not exactly conducive for sight-seeing!

 

No tangled feet from Badger, following their eye-catching rebrand

Sometimes the old beers are the best, a strange comment possibly in these days of IPA’s Double and even Triple IPA’s, to say nothing of all the murk that’s on tap or on the shelves, at the moment. So, it’s good to see one of the remaining, independent, family brewers not particularly re-inventing themselves and going all-out for the citrus, hop-bomb market, but instead adopting an approach that is modern, contemporary and forward looking.

The brewery concerned is Dorset-based Hall & Woodhouse, better known today as Badger Brewery. Founded in 1777 on the banks of the River Stour at Blandford, Dorset, the company is rich in history, whilst its beers are full of character, and passionately made using the finest ingredients. After seven generations and almost two-and-a-half centuries later, the company is still independent and brewing some excellent beers, in a state-of-the-art, modern brewery that proudly alongside their old, Victorian brewery on the banks of the River Stour, in Blandford, Dorset.

I first became acquainted with Hall & Woodhouse, and Badger Ales, in the late 1970’s, and early 1980's when I was heavily involved with the Maidstone branch of the Campaign for Real Ale. In 1978 the branch held a rather large beer festival, at the hall, close to Maidstone’s Lock Meadow Market. This ambitious event featured beers from all over the south and south east, but back in the days before beer agencies, and beer exchanges, it was usually necessary to place orders with the brewery concerned, and then turn up a couple of weeks later, in person, to pick up the beer.

Prior to the festival, the branch made arrangements to collect all pre-ordered beer that couldn’t be delivered – the bulk of the beer order, basically. There was a budget for van hire, so all that was needed were volunteers to drive a van to each brewery, collect the beers, and then convey the precious casks back to Maidstone. A friend and I made two such trips, sharing the driving duties between us. One trip was to the Thames Valley, collecting casks from Brakspear’s at Henley-on Thames, and Wethered’s Brewery, at Marlow (both breweries are no longer with us). A few days later we headed into Dorset, picking up beer from Palmer’s at Bridport (a decent lunch at a Palmer’s pub, close to the brewery), before stopping off, on the drive back to Kent, at Blandford St Mary’s, to collect casks from Hall & Woodhouse.

We didn’t sample any Badger ales at the brewery - not that we we were offered any, because we were both driving, and also because we’d already enjoyed a couple of Palmer’s beers earlier in the day. Blandford seemed an attractive place though, and 17 years later, I found myself back in the town when Mrs PBT’s and I, along with son Matthew plus pet dog, rented a holiday cottage in a small village, close to the town. I’m not 100% certain which village it was, and I‘m not even sure it had a pub. I was a keen home-brewer back then – proper full-mash, whole hops, and all that, so I took a polypin of home-brew along with me.

One morning, on a trip into Blandford, we called in at the Hall & Woodhouse shop to pick up a few bottles, and whilst there enquired about a brewery visit.  We were told that whilst tours for individuals were not available, the company was hosting a tour the following evening, on behalf of a local company. The firm in question was Poole-based BDH (British Drug Houses) a famous and familiar name to anyone who has ever worked in a laboratory. There were a couple of tickets spare so Eileen and I, or just one of us was welcome to tag along.

Eileen had young master Matthew to look after, and wasn’t that interested in breweries anyway, so I went by myself, but as I had to drive into Blandford from our holiday cottage, it rather limited my post brewery-tour sampling.  It was still an interesting visit and hidden away somewhere at home, I’ve got photos of mash tuns, coppers, horizonal fermentation tanks, plus a few of the attractive 19^th Century brewery buildings themselves.

Today, a new state of the art brewery stands alongside the old brewery buildings, which now house the Brewery Tap and Shop. The new brewery is energy saving, more flexible, and much more cost-effective than the old, but nowhere near as attractive. Looking back briefly at the tour, the ticket price included a sit-down, cold buffet, plus plenty of samples. As I was driving, the staff kindly presented me with a selection of bottled beers, to drink later, at my leisure.

Further exposure to Badger Brewery came in the early 2000’s when Eileen and I were running our own, independent off-licence licence, selling a wide variety of both bottled and cask beers – the latter, filled into containers for customers to take away and drink at home. A few months after setting up the business, we came into contact with Badger directly, following their acquisition of Horsham brewer, King & Barnes, and its 55 tied houses. The takeover came about following an abortive bid by Shepherd Neame for K&B, when this fell through Hall & Woodhouse made a counterbid, which was accepted. Sadly, the Horsham Brewery was surplus to the new owner’s requirements and was closed in August 2000. A few of King & Barnes’s more popular beers were brewed at Blandford for a while but were eventually discontinued.

The acquisition gave Badger a foothold into Sussex and West Kent, that they didn’t have before, and locally this included the Hopbine at Petteridge and the Huntsman at Eridge, both of which were former K&B pubs. Seeing as their drays were now delivering into what, for them, was new territory, the company was keen to pick up additional business in the area. Consequently, they were happy to establish an account with our off-licence, so the Cask & Glass started stocking both bottled and cask beers from Badger.

Looking back, the K&B acquisition, probably wasn’t the wisest purchases for Badger to have made, as with very few (if any) tied Badger pubs in neighbouring Hampshire, delivering into Sussex, and Kent meant a lengthy a journey for their drays, through that county.  Consequently, they eventually disposed of both the Hopbine and the Huntsman. Badger cask beers are not often found in the local free trade either, so it is there that the Badger story might have ended for south-east residents like me, were it not for the much-maligned supermarket trade, and a rather clever re-brand.

Just over a year ago, Badger put out a press release under the banner of “Same beer, new bottles”, and it was the eye-catching nature of the bottles that did the trick for me. The brewery had obviously put a lot of work into re-branding their beers, and unlike others in the past – and present (Adnam’s for example), this one actually worked. All the new designs have clear tasting notes on the front and feature colours designed to stand out amongst the sea of brown bottles on supermarket shelves. Badger claim the new designs bring fun and clarity to beer drinkers, and this press release from the brewery explains the thinking behind these changes, far better than I could.

I’ve got our two most recent cruises to thank for re-uniting me with one particular Badger beer, and for making me appreciate what a fine beer it is. I’m talking about Tangle Foot, a 5.0% premium bitter, described today by the brewery as a “golden ale”, despite that term not being around in the 1980’s, when the beer was first developed. Along with other PBA’s (Premium Bottled Ales) from the likes of Adnam's, Charles Wells, Fuller’s, Marston’s St Austell, and Theakston’s, bottled Tangle Foot was readily available, not just in the Golden Lion pub, but in the numerous other bars and eateries onboard both Queen Victoria and Queen Anne.

I developed quite a taste for it, despite the bottles being chilled to a degree of two above freezing, and when I returned to the UK after the last cruise, noticed cans of Tangle Foot on sale at our local Tesco’s. The description “crisp and balanced, with a noble hop character” fits the beer perfectly, but what is more surprising is the use of the more traditional hop varieties, Challenger and Goldings, to give the beer a delicate floral aroma, set against a satisfying bitterness.

So, no "citrus bombs" here thankfully, and no peach of lychee aromas to distract the drinker from enjoyment of this well-balanced and refreshing, gold coloured beer. But when you’ve got 240 years of brewing experience behind you, with all the passion of an independent, family-owned brewery, what else can you expect?

Tunbridge Wells Circular Walk - complete at last!

A couple of Friday’s ago I finally finished the Tunbridge Wells Circular Walk, a task that took far longer than it should have done. For the uninitiated, the TWCW is a cross-country walk which, as its name suggests, is a route around the rural periphery of Tunbridge Wells. The route passes through the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and allows walkers to enjoy the undulating countryside of the High Weald, a landscape of patchwork fields, broad-leaved woodland, and parkland. On the way, it takes in the villages of Southborough, Pembury, Frant, Groombridge and Speldhurst. – a 27½ mile rural walk around the periphery of the former spa town of Tunbridge Wells.

I’d been aware of the TWCW for some time after a conversation with my friend Eric, who had completed the walk with his brother-in-law, some years previously. I had also walked parts of the trail myself, in the company of other friends/CAMRA members, on a number of different pub outings. That was the extent of my interest until a visit to Larkin’s Alehouse in Cranbrook in February 2022 , and there, on sale behind the bar, was a guidebook to the Tunbridge Wells Circular Walk .

I purchased a copy with the intention of walking this footpath myself, but before doing so, I needed to complete the North Downs Way. I’d been walking this long-distance-footpath, in stages, since the summer of 2017, and finally completed at the beginning of February 2023. This was almost a year to the day since buying that TWCW Guidebook, and during that time I’d been studying the route with interest. The book divides the walk into four, manageable sections, moving in a clockwise around Tunbridge Wells, leaving users the choice of four different starting points.

Later that month I began the walk in earnest, starting with the Southborough to Pembury section. As this is the longest stretch of the TW Circular, I completed it in two halves, due mainly to time constraints. February wasn’t the best month to be starting a cross-country walk, and conditions underfoot were wet and quite muddy in places. I also took a wrong turn as I approached Tonbridge, a mistake I only realised when I reached the railway line, instead of the A21 main road.  I ended up walking that missing last half mile or so, a few weeks later, for the sake of completeness.

It was halfway through May that I finally finished Tonbridge to Pembury section, following one of the wettest March and Aprils I can recall. The first part of the walk, up through the grounds of Somerhill House was a familiar one, as it forms part of a walk to Capel and the Dovecote Inn, but as the trail climbed up towards the area known as Dislingbury, it became much harder to follow.

I eventually found my way to the grounds of St Peter’s Old Church, the original place of worship for the settlement of Pippenbury, before the village was re-named and re-sited. A bench, in the tranquil setting of the old churchyard, formed the perfect place for me to sit and enjoy my packed lunch, before heading off, past the waterworks, to the A228 road. Snipe Wood, to the south of Pippin’s Farm, was the ideal place to get lost and completely throw me off course, but eventually I found my way out of the wood and into Pembury village itself. The King Wiliam IV, on the Old Hastings Road, provided a couple of welcoming pints, as reward for finally finishing this section.

The fine weather continued throughout May, so I felt confident in tackling the next stage of the circular walk, from Pembury to Frant. My objective was to follow the footpath as far as the village of Frant, which lies to the south of Tunbridge Wells, enjoy a pint, and possibly a bite to eat at the George Inn, before catching a couple of buses home. This particular stage was a very doable 5 miles, so I was confident of arriving at the George in time for lunch. I perhaps, should have known better, as a poorly signposted route through woodland, took me off course, not just once, but twice.

Fortunately, memories from a previous walk came to my assistance, and I emerged onto close to the rather prestigious Nevill Golf Club. Whilst passing the clubhouse, I asked a couple of golfers if I was heading in the right direction. I was, but this wasn’t quite the end of the walk.  

 After crossing the busy Bayham Road, I followed a track past a farm and then up into Chase Wood. I had walked the steep path through this wood previously, and in both directions, so I knew it was quite a climb. Eventually I emerged from the trees into the first of two fields that took me into Frant. I arrived at the attractive looking George Inn at a quarter to three, and fortunately for me, the pub was open all afternoon. Not so fortunate was missing the last orders for food by 15 minutes, but I was much more in need of liquid, rather than solid refreshment

It was February 2024, when I next set foot on the trail, this time with the aim of walking from Frant to Eridge. This equated to roughly half of the section detailed in the guidebook, which runs all the way to Groombridge. It had been the best part of eight months since I last set foot on the TWCW, a combination of poor weather, plus other commitments had dampened my enthusiasm, but with two weeks of dry and relatively warm weather, I was determined to do something about it.

I took the bus to Frant, and following a quick pint at Abergavenny Arms, set off to find the spot where the TWCW branches off from the main A267 road, and descends into Eridge Park. The drop down into the park was every bit as steep as I recalled from a walk 3½ years previously and was slippery as well. It also featured umpteen trip hazards, in the form of exposed tree roots. Worse was to come, in the form of mud, so my initial optimism that it might be reasonably dry underfoot, soon vanished. The muddy conditions made for slow going, meaning that a walk which should only have taken an hour, ended up taking nearly two because of the constant need to make my way around the worst of the muddy areas.

After passing a series of ornamental lakes at the bottom of the valley it was time to climb back up to higher ground, where I encountered another place where the path deviated from what seemed like the most logical route. With the end in sight, there were two fields filled with sheep to pass through, but unfortunately, they weren’t “friendly” sheep, and seemed determined to harass this person who had invaded their territory. You can read more about my ovine encounter here, and I’m pleased to report I reached the end of the path, unscathed. The Nevill Crest & Gun pub, just a few minutes’ walk away, provided one of the best pints of Harvey’s that I’d had in a long time, and with the bus stop just a short distance away, the ideal place to finish my walk.

Poor weather again intervened leaving a two-month gap before conditions improved sufficiently for me to resume the TWCW. So, in mid-April I picked from where I left off back at the start of February, by taking the No. 29 bus to Eridge Green.  My aim was to walk the three and a half miles from Eridge to Groombridge, passing on the way the impressive rocky outcrops that make up Harrison’s Rocks. Despite a much-needed dry spell at the start of April, the weather again took a turn for the worse, with several heavy downpours, mid-afternoon, that caught me out, right in the middle of a ploughed field. I’d more or less dried out by the time I’d reached the aforementioned Harrison’s Rocks, which are quite impressive and surprisingly high in places.

The Rocks are popular with both novice rock scramblers, and more experienced mountaineers, and form a backdrop to the Spa Valley Railway, whose line follows the valley floor in its run between Eridge and Groombridge stations. There was no welcoming pint at the end of the walk, at least not at Groombridge, but this was due to bus timings rather than anything else, so I called in at Fuggles Beer Cafe instead, when I got back to Tunbridge Wells.

10 days ago, I finally finished the Tunbridge Wells circular, by walking the entire section between Groombridge and Southborough. The guidebook claims this section is just over six miles in length, but they must be “country miles” as the walk seemed considerably longer, especially after I stopped for a rest and a well-earned pint at the George & Dragon in Speldhurst. The guidebook delivered this time around, and more than proved its worth on several occasions.

The Harvey’s at the G&D was in top form, which was just as well, as I found the stretch between Speldhurst and Southborough quite challenging. I was very relieved then when I arrived at Southborough Common, and after passing the long-closed, but sadly missed Beehive pub, at Modest Corner, was soon traversing the cricket ground from where the bus home awaited me.

Despite its modest 27½ mile length, the TWCW is still quite a challenge, in terms of terrain, quality of footpaths - especially the absence of waymarks from where they perhaps should be, and the availability of public transport to convey walkers to and from the various section start and end points. It also “belongs” to this area, as do other localised walks in their own unique setting. What I’m trying to say here is, because it is circular, rather than linear it doesn’t form part of any longer footpaths or indeed any networks of walks. There is still a sense of achievement for having completed it, but it’s not the same as a long-distance, linear walk such as the North or South Downs.

So, what next? Well, Kent Ramblers have published a guide to “Three River Valley Walks in West Kent”, and these are Darent Valley Path, Eden Valley Walk and Medway Valley Walk. The guide follows the same format TWCW, with descriptions of the routes and full-colour mapping. The walks are divided into convenient sections that connect with rail stations, or local buses, meaning they are readily accessible so you can leave the car at home. The only question is, which of these three walks will I attempt first?