Surrey - Hants border. Pt. 2 - Farnham

Welcome back, as we continue the account of my recent visit to Alton and Farnham. After departing Alton by train, our party of pub and beer enthusiasts left Farnham station and walked down the hill, towards the town centre. Somewhat perversely, the A31 Farnham bypass runs through a natural valley at the bottom of the slope – I thought bypasses were meant to avoid town centres, rather than run straight through them, but this one seems to work. I remember coming upon this busy road, quite suddenly, three years ago, when I emerged from the trees and made my way towards the finishing marker for the North Downs Way.

It took the best part of five years to complete this long-distance footpath – five years marred by events at home, work and also globally – COVID! Although just 10 miles on paper, that final stretch between Guildford and Farnham, seemed to go on forever. Consequently, the pints I enjoyed in two of Farnham’s excellent pubs, were all the more rewarding. 

One of them (Nelson Arms), was on the afternoon’s itinerary, so I was looking forward to a more relaxing this time around. After crossing this busy “hybrid” bypass, we headed up into the town centre, and along South Street, before turning left into a road called The Borough. Judging by the shops and other commercial premises, this thoroughfare acts as the town’s High Street, and it was also the home of the first, as well as the last, of the alehouses on our walkabout.

That first pub was the Queen’s Head, a Fuller’s pub with two snug areas and large windows looking out over the bustling High Street. Comfortable and cosy inside, the pub started life as a coffee shop, around 1735, although the building is far older. Today, the Queen’s Head is a family run, town alehouse, offering good food, as well as live music, plus, of course, the full range of Fuller’s beers. I opted for a pint of HSB, a beer that the brewery inherited from Gale’s, and seemed to have improved on.

I also grabbed something to eat, an activity that Martin claimed he was duty-bound to ensure I partook of. This is something of a long-standing joke, that goes back to the first visit to Bath that I made, with the Beer & Pub’s Forum. On that occasion, lunch was inextricably missing from the agenda. I think I was the only person to comment on its absence, but “Paul’s need for solid sustenance” has been a source of amusement ever since, on subsequent Proper Days Out. The Queen’s turned out to be a good call, with a menu pitched at just the right level. There were dishes to suit all tastes and appetites, and looking for something to satisfy my hunger, without it being too filling I opted for a Club Ciabatta. With a filling of roast chicken, bacon plus lettuce and tomato, this sandwich and a half certainly assuaged my hunger for the rest of the day.

It wasn’t far to the next pub, a cosy and pleasant, retreat called the Hop Blossom. Tucked away in the quaintly named, Long Garden Walk, I was convinced this charming corner pub was a free house, but instead it turned out to be another Fuller’s pub. I should, perhaps have realised from the beer range, but the guest ale, in the form of St Austell Anthem, threw me. My previous encounter with this beer had been at the Salamander, a Bath Ales’s pub, which the group visited last November on, what for me, was the second pub forum trip to Bath.

The Hop Blossom is named after the hop gardens which were adjacent to the pub until the early part of the last century. The pub itself was built in 1864 and with its neighbours, forms part of a conservation area. Externally, a number of floral displays and some well-stocked, hanging baskets, added to the charm, and given the fine weather we were experiencing, it was no surprise to witness a couple of groups, siting outside. Internally, there was one long bar, with some smart green tiling, on the wall behind. I’m a real fan of this type of coloured tiling, as not only does it look smart, but also imparts a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere. It reminds me of the Nelson Arms, back home in Tonbridge, which has a similarly tiled back wall, in the corner of the saloon bar.

The Hop Blossom’s website describes itself as a “pub for all seasons,” that offers a warm welcome year-round. In winter it's a cosy retreat, perfect for enjoying a refreshing pint of beer while roasting chestnuts on the open fire. During summer, the pub is a place to sit at one of the outside tables whilst soaking up the Surrey sunshine in style. Whatever the season, the Hop Blossom had a really nice feel to it and was the sort of pub that I’d be happy to make as my local, is I lived in the town.

Farnham’s own Nelson Arms was the next pub on the itinerary, and this was my second, and as rather more relaxed visit to this attractive looking pub, as explained at the beginning of this piece. Situated a short distance up the aptly named Castle Street, (the town’s castle is situated towards the top of this hillside street), the Nelson is a half-timbered building, dating from the 14^th century. 

It’s had a coat of paint since my previous visit (see photo above), which in my view enhances the pub, but apart from that, little has changed, certainly externally. Before entering the Nelson, I couldn’t help noticing the blackboard sign outside, advertising home made pies. Had I known this, and had the timings been right, I would have gone for the pie option, rather than the Club Ciabatta at the Queen’s Head, although that would have meant a very late lunch! 

The beer range at the Nelson was as follows: Hogs Back TEA, plus two similar beers from Timothy Taylor – Golden Best, plus Landlord, of course, although you knew that! I went for the TEA, which I think I had last time around, and with everyone’s glass suitably charged, we decamped, en masse to the large double room, the other side of the fireplace. Looking back over the photos, most of the party seemed engrossed in their phones – perhaps some urgent Discourse matter had come up. Speaking of which, I discovered that one Discourse member present, lives a short train ride away from me, in the village of Marden. Once again, I can’t recall his name, although Martin might remember who he was.

A few final words on the Nelson, regarding the rather solid and very traditional feel to the part of the pub where we were sitting. There are many original dark beams and some exposed brickwork with a log fire in between the two main seating areas. The furniture is varied and comfortable with some settee. According to the pub’s website, the Nelson can be very busy serving food early evenings, although that wasn’t my experience three years ago. Full marks though to a lovely old pub that manages to infuse its obvious history, with a more modern twist.

Moving on to the penultimate pub of the day, saw us walking back towards the town centre and to the mind-boggling, Teller’s Arms. This conversion by Young’s of a former Lloyd's bank, into a modern gastro-pub, is somewhere that has to be seen. Think spacious and high ceiling, lots of upholstered seating, rugs, dark wood, chandeliers and old portraits adorning the walls, and you are transported back in time to an old London pub, that is obviously at the smart end of the spectrum.

This was the obvious intention of the pub company, but it does seem to work. There is a strong focus on food, which is served all day, although plenty of non-dinning spaces are provided. Young’s London Original (so original that it’s brewed in Wolverhampton), plus a Hog’s Back beer complete the lineup on the bar, but quite frankly, Young’s beers are a pale shadow of what we enjoyed 20-30 years ago, when they were still brewed in Wandsworth.   

A stunning pub though, which must have cost the Pubco a fortune to kit out. It’s large enough to get lost in, and there seem plenty of places to hide, for those who don’t want be seen. I haven’t got a huge amount to say regarding the Borough Beer House, which was the final Farnham pub of the day. I haven’t got any photos, either, but to complete the record the pub opened in December 2023, in a building that dates from 1674. 

It was formerly the Bailiff's Hall in Farnham’s historic Town Hall, the one that seems to have been replaced by a more modern version – see photo, opposite. The downstairs seating area is quite small although there is a larger upstairs room, which is where most of us gravitated to. With six hand-pumps serving a variety of cask ale styles from around the UK, normally including a dark beer, a best bitter and something “new wave”, plus eighteen keg lines, providing a range of changing beers from UK, Belgium and beyond. My beer choice to finish on, was Siren Multiverse Dark Mild, a mid-strength cask ale.

I left around the same time as Martin, although with a train back to Alton to catch, he went on ahead. My train wasn’t due to depart until later, and when it did come it was on time. Connections at Guildford and Redhill all went to plan, and I was back in Tonbridge in time for the last bus of the day, which saved a hike up to Bailey Towers. Verdict – another excellent day out, and one in a part of the country that is often overlooked.

 

 

Pubs of the Suffolk Coast

We will take a brief pause before continuing our exploration of the Surrey-Hampshire border area, whilst I tell you about a real gem of a booklet that I discovered during a spot of de-cluttering at home. This is a gradual process of parting with items I no longer need or require, but of course the odd piece of treasure sometimes comes to light. Tucked away, amongst a pile of maps, I came across an absorbing little booklet published in 1978 by the East Anglian Tourist Board, bearing the title, “Pubs of the Suffolk Coast". Researched and written by Michael Watkins, a respected local journalist and broadcaster. At the time, Watkins contributed to a number of publications including The Times, Sunday Telegraph, Evening Standard, and Homes & Gardens. He also produced content for the BBC. His other works included the restaurant guide, "A Taste of East Anglia.”

In this booklet, Mr. Watkins presents 26 of his favourite pubs. As he explains in his introduction, the coastal pubs of Suffolk are generally authentic and unpretentious establishments. The landlords he met were largely indifferent to their inclusion in the guide, as they were not focused on publicity, but rather on fulfilling their demanding role of serving the community by providing them with hospitality, warmth, and sustenance from early morning until late at night. Watkins concludes his introduction by assuring readers that while he cannot promise an idealised version of Suffolk, they will undoubtedly experience its true character and, he believes, they will appreciate it.

The pubs in the guide were selected due to them being traditional, ale houses, although 50 years ago, most pubs would have fitted this description, and whilst there are a few independent "free houses," the majority of the pubs featured are owned by local breweries, such as Tolly Cobbold or Adnams.  

The heritage of these two breweries is as longstanding, as many of the pubs. For example, the Tollemach family can trace its roots in the area back to 1080, and the Cobbold family began brewing locally in 1723. These two families joined forces as Tolly Cobbold in 1957. In Southwold, records refer to Sole Bay Brewery as early as 1641, and the present company, Adnams & Co, dates back to 1872. Sadly, Tolly Cobbold are no more, but Adnams certainly are, and these days, the company is known all over the country, rather than just in Southwold and the surrounding area.

My paternal grandparents retired to a small village near Saxmundham, so I have fond personal memories of this region, from both childhood visits, and trips to the area, in later years. I am therefore familiar with many of the places mentioned in the guide, and have also become acquainted with some of the pubs. The description, "nothing fancy" applies to the pubs like the Old Cross Keys, Aldeburgh, the Jolly Sailor at Orford, the Oyster Inn at Butley, the Old Bell and Steelyard at Woodbridge an unusual one this being a free house, the  White Hart Wickham Market,  the Bell at Walberswick, the Sole Bay Inn and the Lord Nelson in Southwold itself and finally, the Golden Key at Snape - a small Suffolk village on the the River Alde, and not a character in the Harry Potter series!

What I like about this book is that it describes what is now a lost world. A simple world where pubs concentrated on looking after their customers, serving good beer and, in many cases, good food. It provides a fascinating retrospective on the pub scene in a distinct and close-knit region of the UK, and although out of print, this lovely little book offers valuable insight into a bygone era and provides a fascinating perspective on the pub culture of fifty years ago. If I had more free time, I would be interested in revisiting some of these pubs, to determine how many are still operating today, and how much they have changed.

Two good pub towns, on the Surrey - Hants border. Part 1, Alton

Last Friday, I participated in an organised outing with a group of ten fellow beer and pub enthusiasts, including Retired Martin, Citra, and 'Prop up the Bar' Nick, all familiar individuals from previous excursions to locations such as Bath and Birmingham. The chosen destination for this trip comprised two towns in close proximity: Farnham as the primary destination, with the smaller neighbouring town of Alton as the secondary one. I had previously been to Farnham, having passed through en route to Southampton for a cruise. 

On that occasion, we stayed overnight, at a Holiday Inn,  near Winchester, prior to taking a taxi to the cruise port, but I also visited the town, back in October 2022, when I completed the North Downs Way, long distance footpath. Emerging from the trees opposite the A31 Farnham bypass, I enjoyed a much-needed pint at the Mulberry, close to the station before heading into town for a few more drinks at the Nelson Arms, which was one of the pubs on Friday's itinerary.

Anyway, on this occasion I would be seeing Farnham in a different light, but first before talking about the pubs, I want to continue travel theme and describe the journey I undertook to get there, from my home in Tonbridge. I travelled across country using the Tonbridge-Redhill line, before switching onto the North Downs Line at Redhill. This then took me to Guildford, where a further change of trains took me through Farnham and then on to Alton.  

 The Tonbridge-Redhill line acts as a useful diversionary route for London - bound trains, when the tracks north of Tonbridge are blocked by engineering works, or other issues affecting the line. This probably explains why it was kept open despite the infamous Beeching cuts of the 1960’s and early 70’s, but it wasn’t until 1994 that the line was finally electrified. Electrification continues as far as Reigate, the next stop after Redhill, but really the whole line should have been electrified, as today this stretch of the North Downs Line is operated by a fleet of noisy and diesel multiple units.

Despite the noise, and the rattling of the rolling stock, travelling back along this line brought back fond memories, from three or four years ago. This was when I was walking the North Downs Way between Redhill and Guildford, and where intermediate stations, such as Betchworth, Gomshall and Chilworth, served as useful staging posts. On each occasion it meant a steep climb after leaving the station, before reaching the top of the escarpment, in order to pick up the trail. Happy days, and with much of that particular stretch of the North Downs covered by beech-woods, pleasant memories as well. Journeying by this cross-country route saved me roughly half of the cost of travelling via London, and with my Senior Railcard, the return fare worked out at an affordable £22.35.

Alton is the end of the line, as far as regular passenger services are concerned, but until 1973, the tracks ran all the way to Winchester. I don’t think this closure can be blamed on the infamous Doctor Beeching, as this was a little after his time, but with hindsight it does seem rather short-sighted to have closed another useful diversionary route. The line did not completely close because a preserved railway currently operates a 10 mile stretch of track, between Alton and New Alresford. This route is referred to as the Watercress Line, as it was once used to transport freshly harvested watercress from the beds in the Itchen Valley, to markets in London. 

Alton is the birthplace of author, Jane Austen and also has a history as a brewing centre. Beer has long been part of its heritage - older drinkers may recall Courage Alton Bitter, Harp Lager also had a factory in the town, which was established by a consortium comprising Guinness, Courage, and several smaller breweries. The objective was to producing a home-grown lager brand, with Guinness's famous Irish Harp symbol used as its logo. 

Whether truncating the line at Alton is to blame for the slightly backwater feel to the town; that “end of the line” effect, but it wasn’t until we got back to Farnham that I noticed the quite striking difference between the two towns. For a start, Farnham has a population of just under 40,000 persons, whilst Alton can only boast around half of that figure. Nevertheless, the latter seemed a good starting point for our day out, even though we only visited three pubs in Alton, as opposed to five in Farnham.

My train pulled into Alton at around 11:40, which allowed sufficient time to walk to the first pub on the itinerary, prior to it opening its doors. Waiting for me at the station, as if he knew I was coming, was none other than Martin Taylor, aka retired martin, ace pub-ticker and GBG completist, as well as one of the most accomplished of pub men that one could wish to know. 

I’d taken the precaution beforehand, of printing off a town map, but with Martin acting as my guide, the pair of us made our way through the centre of Alton, past the hotel he had booked into for the night, to the first pub of the day. This was the Ten Tun Tap House, a craft beer and cask ale pub with its own onsite brewery, situated just off the Market Square.

Housed in a modern, brick-building, with a bare wood minimalist interior, TTTH is a pub with a bright and airy feel to it, along with something for everyone., This included a seat at the bar, a bench in the sun, big tables for large groups plus up to 15 different draught beers – 4 on hand-pump, plus 11 craft keg. Waiting for us at the pub, were the 10 or so other participants, including Citra Mick, plus Nick C. The rest of he group were local CAMRA members, most of whom were described to me as members of CAMRA Discourse.  I confess to knowing absolutely nothing about “Discourse” apart from it being a kind of “talking shop”  or echo chamber for CAMRA members to obsess and pontificate on various pub, beer and CAMRA branch related topics. I’m not going to say any more, as they all seemed a decent bunch, with a similar age to myself, and who am I to pass judgement? I was also their guest, in a manner of speaking. 

I chose a keg beer, called Sad Ken, produced in the brewery at the rear of the pub, primarily because I was in Untappd beer-ticking mode, and the two cask beers from Marble and Iron Pier, were ones I was already familiar with. It was a rather hazy American-style IPA, so I was pleased that I only ordered a half. I was also looking to pace myself over the course of what I knew would be a long day. 

Although I was introduced to the Discourse “mob”, I’m hopeless at remembering names, so apologies to anyone in the group whose name I might have missed – my memory has never been my strong-point!  Before moving on to the next pub, I took a peep through the windows, into the brewery, as well as several photos. Everything looked shiny and new, and in complete contrast to the next pub, which was as traditional as they come. The Eight Bells is a Grade II listed building dates from the 1640s and has been a pub since at least the 1840s when it was known as the Sawyers Arms. This white-painted and unassuming pub, is situated about 10 minutes walk away from the centre of town, amongst a maze of attractive back streets, and virtually opposite the attractive St Lawrence's church.

With a large main bar, plus a couple of smaller rooms leading off to the left of the serving area, the Eight Bells keeps old fashioned hours, with a closed period between 2 and 5pm. It was Local CAMRA Pub of the Year 2023 & 2024, a fact reflected by its interesting range of beers. With two brews from the Flower Pot Brewery at Cheriton, plus offerings from Bowman and Black Sheep, we were spoiled for choice, but I went for the Flower Pots Bitter, and old favourite, but one I hadn't seen for a long time.

And so, to the final pub in the Alton section of the visit, which was the Railway Arms, just a short hop from the station. The Railway is a tied house belonging to Triple fff Brewery, a small, but longstanding company based in the village of Four Marks, close to the Watercress Line. The company was founded in 1997, and in 2008, their Alton's Pride was awarded Supreme Champion Beer of Britain. I of course had to try a glass, along with Moondance, another Triple fff Beer. 

Most of the brewery's beers are either song or album titles, (Alton’s Pride aside), whilst the pub itself, looks like a couple of terraced Victorian cottages, knocked through into one. It is a very popular pub, with a strong local following, and is also the current CAMRA Pub of the Year. We departed shortly before 2pm, and caught the train back down the line to Farnham. It was only a 10 minute ride, but we'll leave the story here for the moment, and continue next time with the pubs of Farnham.  
 

Three Tuns Inn seeks a new licensee

The Three Tuns Inn at Bishop's Castle, Shropshire, closed suddenly on 11^th July due to "unforeseen circumstances." The pub is located next to the Three Tuns Brewery, established in 1642 and widely regarded as the oldest licensed brewing site in Britain. Although there has been no direct connection between the pub and the brewery for the past 20 years, visitors often visit due to its proximity to the brewery and its historical significance. This related to the Three Tuns being one of only four UK pubs left in the 1970s,  where brewing occurred on-site. This, of course, was around the time that CAMRA was formed and public interest in the brewing industry and its history increased. A spokesperson for the pub's owner, Heineken Star Pubs said "the previous temporary operator has had to close The Three Tuns due to unforeseen circumstances." However, the company intends to reopen the pub as soon as possible, and is currently looking to recruit a new licensee.  

 Copyright owned by Chris Gunns. Licensed for reuse under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 license.

Reports indicate concerns about the condition of the building both inside and outside, with statements from a local councillor noting issues such as damaged plaster, an unreadable pub name, and deterioration of the building. The councillor also stated that the Three Tuns was formerly a significant tourism attraction for the town and expressed support for efforts within the local community to reopen the establishment. The company hope that this historic pub will not be closed for long, and state they are keen to undertake a major transformational internal and external refurbishment of the Three Tuns once a suitable candidate has been identified to take the pub forward.  Following its abrupt closure, the Three Tuns has been advertised as available to let with an in-going of £57,999 and an annual rent of £47,997 pa.

The brewery is an historic tower construction, dating back to the 1640's, which was once under the same ownership as the pub; however, it became an independent operation in 2003. CAMRA notes that while the pub has been updated over time, efforts have been made to do so in line with the requirements of its Listed building status. The establishment features four rooms, each with distinct functions and atmospheres. The front bar has traditional decor, the main bar offers natural light with windows facing the brewery, the Snug Bar includes a low ceiling, wood burning stove, easy chairs, and various games, and the Conservatory Bar - Dining Room, that was added more recently. Until the summer of 2023, the pub primarily served Three Tuns beers with occasional guest options; currently, only one of the five cask beers produced by the brewery is available on tap.

So why should I be so concerned about a pub situated on the other side of the country, that I have only visited once? There’s a straight forward answer to that question, and it’s one that transcends the obvious appeal of the Three Tuns, and the adjacent brewery. The fact that it’s a survivor from a bygone age, should be testament enough, and yet as late as the first half of the last century, pub that brewed their own beer, were not uncommon. The two concerns, often went hand in hand, and what could be more logical than a small brewery with its own retail outlet attached?

Things slowly changed, over the years, and gradually the obvious appeal of economies of scale started to kick in. Brewing beer, is a time-consuming that requires specialised equipment, as well as its own dedicated premises, and the blinkers are off, selling beer that is brewed off-site, by a specialist team of brewers has its obvious attractions, the not least of which are the obvious economies of scale, coupled with the experience that comes from a dedicated brewing team. As the 20^th century wore on, the advantages of getting one’s beer brewed by specialist concern, out stripped the romantic appeal of brewing the stuff on the premises. Some home-brew pubs hung on, I’m pleased to report, possibly due to customer demand, but more often due to the tenacity or sheer bloody mindedness of their respective owners. Even so, by the mid 1970’s there were only four brew pubs remaining in the entire British Isles, and when I first learned about this, I decided it would be good to sample them myself.

These pubs were,  the All Nations, Madeley, Shropshire, the Blue Anchor, Helston, Cornwall, the Old Swan. Netherton, Worcestershire, and the Three Tuns, Bishop's Castle, Shropshire. I visited two of these pubs fairly soon after reading about them (Blue Anchor and Three Tuns), whilst I left if until last year before finally setting foot in the Old Swan. I’ve yet to visit the All Nations, as it was closed when I drove past it, with a work colleague on a visit to Shropshire, back in the mid-1980’s (a few year’s prior to the advent of all day drinking). Of all those four pubs, the two I’d most like to re-visit, are the Blue Anchor and the Three Tuns, so the closure (albeit temporary) of the latter, comes as a bit of a blow.

It's worth mentioning that I visited the above two brewpubs in the mid-70’s, as a student, and was driven to both of them by my friend Chris, from university. Chris shared the same interest in pubs as me, so a visit to the Blue Anchor, whilst staying at his parent’s caravan, down in Cornwall, shouldn’t come a surprise. The trip to the Three Tuns, took place a year or so later, with Chris once again doing the driving, this time from Rugeley, in Staffordshire. He also gave me my first taste of Batham’s, when we called in at the Lamp Tavern in Dudley. I mentioned this to Stafford Paul, when we rode past the pub, on the top deck of a bus, during last year’s tour of the Black Country, last year.

Just over two years ago, I posted an article about the Three Tuns, describing the above visit in greater detail. Despite the lengthy drive, that trip to the Three Tuns, and the few hours spent in it, still remain as one of my most memorable pub experiences of the past 50 years. It is for that reason alone, that I wholeheartedly wish to see the Three Tuns back open, and up and running again. Call it nostalgia, or even the desire to recapture a mis-spent youth, but the chance to sit once again, in that marvellous old pub, with its living sense of history, and to sample the equally marvellous Three Tuns XXX Bitter, is a desire that I wish to experience whilst I still can. I’d certainly like to do so before Heineken, or whoever, decide that the place needs a makeover, and turn it into yet another twee and chintzy, upmarket dining pub.

A Sarah Hughes surprise at the Nelson Arms

After the last, rather lengthy post, here is a much shorter one, not just for balance but more because the narrative can be told in just a couple of pages. What I'm going to write about, is how a slice of the West Midlands - Black Country came to Tonbridge last weekend and how, surprisingly, few people actually realised what they missed. Some of you may remember that, just over a year ago, I wrote a piece detailing my tour around a few of the Black Country’s finest and most characterful public houses. My companion and guide for that tour was local expert, Stafford Paul. Apart from the obvious candidate of the Vine at Brierley Hill, the pub which forms the brewery tap for the legendary Batham’s Brewery, there were several other standout pubs, and chief amongst them was the Beacon Hotel at Sedgley. This classic Black Country pub is made all the more famous by having its own brewery on site.

The Beacon Hotel & Brewery was built around 1850, with the first licence being granted two years later. Since then, the pub and brewery have remained virtually unchanged for decades. The Beacon is an English Heritage listed building with an historic pub interior, of national importance, and it really is a place where time has stood still. The traditional Black Country Victorian tower brewery and public house was bought at auction in 1921 by Sarah Hughes. Sarah Hughes was a legendary character who ran both pub and brewery, and she continued brewing beers at the Beacon until her death in 1951. Her son Alfred continued the tradition for a further six years, before brewing ceased, altogether, but rather than remove and demolish the attached brewery, the plant was mothballed.

Then, after a 30-year lapse, Sarah’s grandson John Hughes, lovingly restored the brewery, giving it a complete overall overhaul, by replacing any broken worn or missing parts, and in 1987 brewing re-commenced at the Beacon. In tribute to his legendary grandmother, John produced a strong, dark beer called Sarah Hughes Ruby Mild, weighing in at 6.4%, a strength that is far higher than your average mild. Today, this labyrinth-like pub has several drinking rooms based around a small central hatchway, that serves the beers brewed in the tower brewery, at the back of this Grade II listed pub.

It was a bit of a mad dash last year for Paul and me to get to the Beacon on time, because the pub is one of the few which still observe a period of afternoon closing time. Paul had worked out a bus route which ought to have got us to the pub, for at least one pint, before the start of the afternoon break, but a combination of roadworks and heavy traffic meant that we almost missed our window of opportunity. Fortunately, we have indomitable Good Beer Guide ticker Martin Taylor to thank for his efforts that afternoon. Martin had joined Paul and I at the equally historic Old Swan, at Netherton, a pub also known as Ma’ Pardoe’s after its former legendary landlady. We thought there would be plenty of time, but the road conditions seemed determined to thwart us. With the clock ticking, Martin left the bus and went on ahead, half walking and half jogging, leaving Paul and I sitting on the bus, wondering whether he would make it or not.

I'm pleased to report that Martin made it to the Beacon by the skin of his teeth, and when Paul and I arrived at this wonderfully unspoiled Black Country local, there was a pint mug of the legendary Sarah Hughes Dark Mild, waiting for each of us on the bar. The bar staff had just called time, so a massive thank-you to Martin for saving the day. At 6.4%, the home-brewed ale wasn’t one to rush, but interestingly enough the pub management seemed in no hurry to turf any of us out the door. So, having achieved my quest to sample this legendary beer, I was content to commit the Beacon Hotel to blessed memory.

Fast forward to last weekend, when I happened to notice a post, on social media, advising that the Nelson Arms in Tonbridge, would be featuring two beers from the legendary Beacon Hotel. Naturally, Sarah Hughes Dark Mild was one of them, but the second was a light-coloured, 5% bitter called Sarah Hughes Surprise. With this in mind I was determined to get along to the Nelson in order to sample both beers. As it happened, I wasn’t able to visit the pub until Sunday afternoon and not knowing whether either of these beers would still be on sale, I stepped inside the Nelson with a sense of trepidation.

My fears vanished, after seeing clips for both beers displayed on the pumps. The pub was surprisingly quiet for 3 o’clock on a Sunday afternoon, but a combination of inclement weather, plus the start of the school holidays was probably to blame. The cosy, snug bar to the far right of the pub, was empty, leaving me a choice of tables and comfy chairs. I got stuck into both of the beers, although largely reserving the stronger dark mild until last. The Surprise was a new one for me, and was a typical, West Midlands, light bitter, but as in March 2024, the Sarah Hughes Dark Mild was definitely the star of the show.