As mentioned above, the pub was surprisingly quiet, considering both the day and the time, with much of the custom coming from the street party outside, with people popping in, ordering a quick pint – on the promise of returning their glass, when empty, but for me it was a nice time to be sitting there, basking in the quiet, and relaxing atmosphere that goes with a mature pub, that is assured of its stature and position in both the local and the wider community.
As on my previous Saturday afternoon visit, a month or so earlier, I bumped into a former chairman of my local CAMRA branch, who appears to include the Nelson on his Saturday afternoon drinking circuit. We spent an interesting 20 minutes or so catching up on beer related topics, that included a new brewery in Shoreham (its beer is available at the Samuel Palmer in the village) as well as next month’s Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival. Ian is putting the beer order together for the event, and Alnwick Brewery, which we visited during our Northumberland trip, features on the list. Alnwick act as wholesalers for other small breweries in the north-east, region, as well as the Scottish Borders, so there should be some interesting beers on sale at the festival. The following day, I called in briefly at my workplace, primarily to make use of the builder's skip standing in the carpark and dispose of some unwanted items (junk) that have been gathering dust in the shed since time immemorial. This short visit proved the perfect excuse for a drink at a nearby (relatively speaking) pub, that has long been one of my favourites, even though I don’t often manage a visit there. I’m talking here about the Rock at Chiddingstone Hoath, a small and quite isolated community, situated on high ground to the north-west of Tunbridge Wells. The pub itself is around 500 years old and is a former drovers' inn that has retained many original features. As one would expect, there are plenty of exposed beams, that complement the brick flooring of the main bar. The main focus of the pub is the wood burning stove and the adjacent, ring-the-bull game. There have been some minor alterations to the bar, primarily to allow access to the garden at the rear, and kitchen has also been upgraded. I’ve known the Rock for the past 40 years, and have witnessed several changes of ownership, along with various alterations, most of which, I’m pleased to say, have been relatively minor. For a time, the pub was leased to Larkin’s Brewery, who are based a mile or two down the road in Chiddingstone village, but it is now a thriving free house which still stocks Larkin’s, along with a couple of other beers. A recent and very welcome addition, is the over-spill car park, occupying a small field, on the opposite side of the road. It certainly makes visits by car, to the Rock a lot easier. When Matthew and I called in on Sunday, Harvey’s Best and Sussex Pale from Lakedown Brewing were on sale, alongside the local Larkin's offering. I gave the Lakedown brew a try, as despite having seen it on sale in a number of local pubs, I had never tried the beer. Described by the brewery as a modern pale ale, loaded with English Cascade & Ernest hops for an aromatic finish, it ended up being the perfect lunchtime pint. You can read more about Lakedown Brewing, here. Given the fine weather, we took our pints outside and sat in the pleasant garden at the rear of the pub. It was good to see the Rock busy with customers, taking advantage, like us, of the early autumn sunshine, and given the pub’s isolated position the bustling trade was a good sign. On our drive back to Tonbridge, we passed by the Bottle House, another classic country pub, albeit a rather upmarket establishment these days. This too seemed popular, with vehicles parked along both sides of the lane, despite the pub’s substantial car park. Both visits – town and country, provided evidence that the pub trade is in good health, at least is some parts of the country, although it’s safe to say the same seems to apply to parts of the North East as well, if our recent visit to Northumberland is anything to go by. Long may this situation continue!Beer-related travel, at home and abroad, exploring and indulging my passion for beer.
Wednesday, 18 September 2024
Getting back in the swing
Saturday, 14 September 2024
Journey south along the Great North Road, before becoming stuck in the Big Smoke
We were then left with the dilemma of how to get cross the River Thames. I initially thought of heading toward Tower Bridge, when Eileen suggested the Rotherhithe Tunnel. Despite many years of visiting the capital and traveling in a north – south direction, this was a crossing I'd never used, and with good reason. Although the Rotherhithe opened a decade after the Blackwall, it remains a single-bore tunnel that was designed for the traffic at the time – horse-drawn carriages, and rudimentary automobiles, rather than modern vehicles. Its narrow bore, plus a number of bends, mean the tunnel is restricted to private cars, and given that the latter have increased in size over the past few decades, the crossing leaves little room for drive error.
It took the best part of an hour to reach the tunnel entrance, thanks to road works affecting the A13, East India Dock Road. The traffic was scarcely moving in fact it took us an hour to travel to a distance of just a few miles hello somewhat delightedly we came up on the entrance to the Rotherhithe almost by accident. The tunnel lived up to its reputation of being narrow with just the one lane in either direction and several twists and turns, so it was a relief when we surfaced on the Surrey side of the Thames. and continued to navigate our way down to pick up the road that would take us back to Kent. We ended up driving along the A200, through Deptford and Greenwich, although looking at the map afterwards, we’d have been better picking up the A2 to the south of it. Not only would that road have been more familiar, it would probably have been carrying less traffic. I can't remember the last time I'd driven in London although it must be about 40 years ago. The standard of driving certainly hadn't improved but far worse than the four-wheel vehicles were the scooters employed by fast food companies such as Deliveroo, Uber or Just Eat. With scant regard for their own safety, they were weaving in and out of the traffic until it reached the stage of, "if you're stupid enough to cut in front of me, you can suffer the consequences if I accidentally knock you off." Fortunately, nothing of that nature occurred, but as with the other side of the Thames, we crawled our way towards our destination and before long a comfort stop was needed for the driver. We were also getting low on fuel, even though there would have been ample for the clear run home I’d originally envisaged. Fortunately, just the other side of Greenwich I found a BP filling station, with a well-stocked shop and, most importantly, some nice clean toilets! The petrol was considerably cheaper than back home so after filling one tank and draining another, we continued on our way and eventually found our way out of the metropolis and onto the A2. From there it was onto the M25 and back into Kent. We made a quick diversion into Tesco's at Riverhead, to pick up essentials such as bread and milk, eventually arriving home just after 4 pm. After that battle through the London traffic, I knew we’d definitely made the right decision by breaking the journey at the Premier Inn in Huntington. It was straight back to work the following morning, just as it was after our cruise, back in June, and I haven’t really stopped since.I appreciate this post doesn’t have much to do with pubs and beer, although it does involve a fair amount of descriptive writing about state of our overcrowded road system, the number of cars on the road and the occasional lunatic driver. Normal service though, will be resumed soon.
Saturday, 7 September 2024
To Alnwick and back
Mrs PBT’s and I had been thinking of a post summer break, for some time, and with the idea of taking son Matthew with us, Northumberland seemed the ideal location. It would also tick another box for on my list of places to visit. Eileen seemed quite taken with the idea, particularly when I said we could make a brief visit across the border into Scotland. Consequently, I started researching suitable locations to visit and, just as importantly, places to stay. I also looked at breaking both the outward and return journeys, bearing in mind the 300+ mile drive, each way. With regard to places to stay, it was always going to be Alnwick, centrally located, off the main A1 trunk road, and just a short distance from the North Sea coast. From the various articles and reviews I read, it also looked an attractive place in which to base ourselves, At Mrs PBT’s suggestion – or should that be insistence, I booked stays at three different Premier Inns, to take account of the aforementioned breaks of journey. For the record, the stopovers were Harrogate on the outward trip, and Huntingdon on the return. The Alnwick Premier Inn is a recent addition to the chain, and unlike its stablemate at Harrogate, was adequately staffed. It was a 25-minute walk into the centre of town, although by way of a change from the limited range of beers stocked by the hotel bar, there was a substantial, stone-built, multi-room, pub, called the Oaks Hotel, done out in Jennings’s livery. Unsurprisingly it didn’t stock any Jenning’s beers, and no Marston’s ones for that matter. Matthew and I made a number of after-dinner visits, where alongside Taylor’s Landlord, the cask selection swapped from Hadrian -Tyneside Blonde to Alnwick Brewery Amber. Speaking of the latter, we called in at the Alnwick Brewery Tap, housed in a comfortable, stone-built former barn, in a rural spot roughly halfway between Alnwick and Alnmouth. It was a rather wet, windy and rather miserable day when we called in (the only bad day of the holiday), so the log-burner, blazing away brightly in the corner, helped add a welcome homely touch to the place. I purchased a selection of Alnwick bottles to take home with me. As well as trips out – including that promised excursion into Scotland, we enjoyed a couple of days looking round Alnwick, which proved to be am attractive and well-laid out town, that is dominated by the imposing and majestic, stone-built, early, 14th century castle, owned by the Percy family since 1309, and one of the largest inhabited castles in the UK today. As well as the heritage and real history (the Percy family are the Duke & Duchess of Northumberland), Alnwick Castle has been a filming location for Downton Abbey, Dungeons & Dragons – thought that was a game? and two Harry Potter films.Surrounding the castle ramparts, are some substantial and well-laid out gardens. We didn’t pay to enter either, partially due to Mrs PBT’s mobility issues, but also because it seemed somewhere that was worthy of an entire day being spent on it. One of the gatekeepers advised us that the best area for taking photos of the castle, was on the other side of the town, so we took the advice, and did exactly that before heading back to the hotel. Putting the castle to one side for a moment, what we particularly liked about Alnwick was its excellent selection of independent shops, pubs, bars, and places where one could grab a decent coffee. The people were obviously friendly – it was the north-east, after all, but the biggest bonus as far as we were concerned, was the free (in most cases) car-parking. Having to pay to park one’s car, is a really divisive issue where we live in Tonbridge, something made worse recently by a local council driven by a scrooge-like mentality, that has recently extended the times where charges apply, to include evenings and Sundays. I mentioned in the previous article about having failed to visit Bamburgh and its equally famous castle, although with us due to return home tomorrow (Saturday), that will have to wait for another occasion, as will Holy Island (Lindisfarne). For anyone planning a trip to this unspoilt part of the country, Eileen and I can thoroughly recommend Alnwick as a base. And for those who don’t fancy driving, especially if you live at the opposite end of the UK, why not take the train instead and then travel around the area by bus? I haven’t done the research myself, but I know someone who has, and based on what he told me, plus the number of buses we saw, even in quite remote locations, leads me to believe that Northumberland is quite doable by bus, and is even better if, like me, you have a bus pass. We departed Alnwick this morning, driving 245 miles to our current resting place, the Premier Inn at Huntingdon. It's not actually in the town itself, but instead is situated on a service area between the A1 and the A14. Unlike the Premier we left behind at Alnwick, the one we're now staying at is older, and is similar in design, style and appearance the one where we began our trip North - the Premier Inn at Harrogate south. There the similarity ends, as a stone's throw from this particular outlet, is a stand alone Brewer's Fayre, called the Brampton Hut, which is where we ate this evening.It might sound boring and lazy, but we've had an evening meal at a Premier Inn every night, except the first, and that one was the Harrogate south outlet. It's not haute-cuisine, and it's not exactly artisanal cooking either, but it's well thought out, and cooked with fresh and high quality ingredients. Mrs PBT's isn't much of a pub-goer, and after driving each and every day, I didn't really fancy acting as chauffeur either. Various cut-price offers are available at the Brampton, that weren't on the menu at Alnwick, but there was still plenty that appealed to us. It's back to Kent in the morning, and back to work the following day, but it's been an enjoyable and relaxing family break.
Thursday, 5 September 2024
Some premier family time in Northumberland
The drive up to Alnwick took longer than planned, due to roadworks in the Newcastle area – next time we shall listen to what the Sat-Nav is telling us. Fortunately, the town’s Premier Inn exceed our expectations, and was in a different league to the one we had left behind in Harrogate.
Modern, and functionally stylish, the hotel offered everything that the one in Harrogate could not, which is just as well, given that we booked in for a five night’s stay. Although it is necessary to pre-book an evening meal at Alnwick, its modern restaurant, with its well-thought-out food offering, demonstrates just what was missing at Harrogate. Perhaps once the alterations have taken place at the latter, the outlet will find its mojo again and get back on its feet. We’ve one more Premier Inn to experience on this holiday, and that is the one at Huntingdon. But as that is just a stopover on our journey home, it doesn’t really matter, as long as it is clean and not too noisy. Our experiences with the Premier chain this week, highlight the differences existing within a chain that is built on providing a standardised approach to the overnight hospitality business. They also reinforce my approach to staying away from home, which is to go for an independent outlet, even if it does mean taking the occasional punt. As far as the local attractions are concerned, we are really impressed with Alnwick. In addition, we've enjoyed a walk along the lovely, unspoilt, sandy beach at Alnmouth, had a posh fish-finger sandwich, plus a pint of locally brewed Tyneside Blonde from Hadrian & Border Brewery, at the Olde Ship Inn at Seahouses, where we sat out soaking up the sun in the secluded spot behind the pub, overlooking the harbour. We also made a short trip across the border into Scotland. Stopping for coffee and cake at the harbour side village of Eyemouth, the first settlement of any size as you cross into Scotland. It was very pleasant sitting out in the warm early September sunshine, looking out across the narrow harbour. There were even a couple of seals swimming lazily in the water. We found a baker’s selling coffee and some rather nice cakes, before embarking on the return journey back to Alnwick, via Berwick. Disappointingly, we failed in our quest to visit Bamburgh, as both roads leading into the village from the A1 were closed by roadworks. Similarly, the sheer volume of traffic, heading back along the narrow road from Holy Island, plus the warning warnings about not getting caught out on the causeway by the tide, put us off from visiting Lindisfarne.There’s still time for another attempt at Holy Island, although not today, as the weather has taken a turn for the worse, with drizzle blowing in from the North Sea. Not exactly conducive for sight-seeing!
Friday, 30 August 2024
No tangled feet from Badger, following their eye-catching rebrand
The brewery concerned is Dorset-based Hall & Woodhouse, better known today as Badger Brewery. Founded in 1777 on the banks of the River Stour at Blandford, Dorset, the company is rich in history, whilst its beers are full of character, and passionately made using the finest ingredients. After seven generations and almost two-and-a-half centuries later, the company is still independent and brewing some excellent beers, in a state-of-the-art, modern brewery that proudly alongside their old, Victorian brewery on the banks of the River Stour, in Blandford, Dorset.
I first became acquainted with Hall & Woodhouse, and Badger Ales, in the late 1970’s, and early 1980's when I was heavily involved with the Maidstone branch of the Campaign for Real Ale. In 1978 the branch held a rather large beer festival, at the hall, close to Maidstone’s Lock Meadow Market. This ambitious event featured beers from all over the south and south east, but back in the days before beer agencies, and beer exchanges, it was usually necessary to place orders with the brewery concerned, and then turn up a couple of weeks later, in person, to pick up the beer. Prior to the festival, the branch made arrangements to collect all pre-ordered beer that couldn’t be delivered – the bulk of the beer order, basically. There was a budget for van hire, so all that was needed were volunteers to drive a van to each brewery, collect the beers, and then convey the precious casks back to Maidstone. A friend and I made two such trips, sharing the driving duties between us. One trip was to the Thames Valley, collecting casks from Brakspear’s at Henley-on Thames, and Wethered’s Brewery, at Marlow (both breweries are no longer with us). A few days later we headed into Dorset, picking up beer from Palmer’s at Bridport (a decent lunch at a Palmer’s pub, close to the brewery), before stopping off, on the drive back to Kent, at Blandford St Mary’s, to collect casks from Hall & Woodhouse. We didn’t sample any Badger ales at the brewery - not that we we were offered any, because we were both driving, and also because we’d already enjoyed a couple of Palmer’s beers earlier in the day. Blandford seemed an attractive place though, and 17 years later, I found myself back in the town when Mrs PBT’s and I, along with son Matthew plus pet dog, rented a holiday cottage in a small village, close to the town. I’m not 100% certain which village it was, and I‘m not even sure it had a pub. I was a keen home-brewer back then – proper full-mash, whole hops, and all that, so I took a polypin of home-brew along with me. One morning, on a trip into Blandford, we called in at the Hall & Woodhouse shop to pick up a few bottles, and whilst there enquired about a brewery visit. We were told that whilst tours for individuals were not available, the company was hosting a tour the following evening, on behalf of a local company. The firm in question was Poole-based BDH (British Drug Houses) a famous and familiar name to anyone who has ever worked in a laboratory. There were a couple of tickets spare so Eileen and I, or just one of us was welcome to tag along.Eileen had young master Matthew to look after, and wasn’t that interested in breweries anyway, so I went by myself, but as I had to drive into Blandford from our holiday cottage, it rather limited my post brewery-tour sampling. It was still an interesting visit and hidden away somewhere at home, I’ve got photos of mash tuns, coppers, horizonal fermentation tanks, plus a few of the attractive 19th Century brewery buildings themselves.
Today, a new state of the art brewery stands alongside the old brewery buildings, which now house the Brewery Tap and Shop. The new brewery is energy saving, more flexible, and much more cost-effective than the old, but nowhere near as attractive. Looking back briefly at the tour, the ticket price included a sit-down, cold buffet, plus plenty of samples. As I was driving, the staff kindly presented me with a selection of bottled beers, to drink later, at my leisure. Further exposure to Badger Brewery came in the early 2000’s when Eileen and I were running our own, independent off-licence licence, selling a wide variety of both bottled and cask beers – the latter, filled into containers for customers to take away and drink at home. A few months after setting up the business, we came into contact with Badger directly, following their acquisition of Horsham brewer, King & Barnes, and its 55 tied houses. The takeover came about following an abortive bid by Shepherd Neame for K&B, when this fell through Hall & Woodhouse made a counterbid, which was accepted. Sadly, the Horsham Brewery was surplus to the new owner’s requirements and was closed in August 2000. A few of King & Barnes’s more popular beers were brewed at Blandford for a while but were eventually discontinued. The acquisition gave Badger a foothold into Sussex and West Kent, that they didn’t have before, and locally this included the Hopbine at Petteridge and the Huntsman at Eridge, both of which were former K&B pubs. Seeing as their drays were now delivering into what, for them, was new territory, the company was keen to pick up additional business in the area. Consequently, they were happy to establish an account with our off-licence, so the Cask & Glass started stocking both bottled and cask beers from Badger. Looking back, the K&B acquisition, probably wasn’t the wisest purchases for Badger to have made, as with very few (if any) tied Badger pubs in neighbouring Hampshire, delivering into Sussex, and Kent meant a lengthy a journey for their drays, through that county. Consequently, they eventually disposed of both the Hopbine and the Huntsman. Badger cask beers are not often found in the local free trade either, so it is there that the Badger story might have ended for south-east residents like me, were it not for the much-maligned supermarket trade, and a rather clever re-brand. Just over a year ago, Badger put out a press release under the banner of “Same beer, new bottles”, and it was the eye-catching nature of the bottles that did the trick for me. The brewery had obviously put a lot of work into re-branding their beers, and unlike others in the past – and present (Adnam’s for example), this one actually worked. All the new designs have clear tasting notes on the front and feature colours designed to stand out amongst the sea of brown bottles on supermarket shelves. Badger claim the new designs bring fun and clarity to beer drinkers, and this press release from the brewery explains the thinking behind these changes, far better than I could.I’ve got our two most recent cruises to thank for re-uniting me with one particular Badger beer, and for making me appreciate what a fine beer it is. I’m talking about Tangle Foot, a 5.0% premium bitter, described today by the brewery as a “golden ale”, despite that term not being around in the 1980’s, when the beer was first developed. Along with other PBA’s (Premium Bottled Ales) from the likes of Adnam's, Charles Wells, Fuller’s, Marston’s St Austell, and Theakston’s, bottled Tangle Foot was readily available, not just in the Golden Lion pub, but in the numerous other bars and eateries onboard both Queen Victoria and Queen Anne.
I developed quite a taste for it, despite the bottles being chilled to a degree of two above freezing, and when I returned to the UK after the last cruise, noticed cans of Tangle Foot on sale at our local Tesco’s. The description “crisp and balanced, with a noble hop character” fits the beer perfectly, but what is more surprising is the use of the more traditional hop varieties, Challenger and Goldings, to give the beer a delicate floral aroma, set against a satisfying bitterness.So, no "citrus bombs" here thankfully, and no peach of lychee
aromas to distract the drinker from enjoyment of this well-balanced and refreshing,
gold coloured beer. But when you’ve got 240 years of brewing experience behind
you, with all the passion of an independent, family-owned brewery, what else can
you expect?