I was in Canterbury
on Friday, visiting the city’s annual Food & Drink Festival, which also happens
to coincide with the launch of Kent Green Hop Beer Fortnight. I’d missed the
previous two festivals due to clashes with family holidays, so it was good to
renew my acquaintance with the event.
As in previous years the festival was held in Canterbury’s
Dane John
Gardens, which lie in the shadow of
the city’s medieval walls. The event seemed larger than I remember it,
occupying the entire length of this historic park, with a huge array of
different food stalls, selling all sorts of tasty offerings. There was also the
beers of course, along with a selection of Kentish ciders, plus various artisan
gins and liqueurs.
As well as a large marque, with a bar featuring all the Green Hop beers available at the festival, several breweries had stands of their own, offering keg and bottles beers, alongside their cask, Green Hop ales. I noticed stalls from Old Dairy, Goody Ales, plus a large tent for those who enjoy beers from Kent's largest, and Britain's oldest brewery - Shepherd Neame.
The only fly in the ointment was the weather, which was
“changeable,” with plenty of passing showers along with the odd longer spell of
rain, but the damp conditions didn’t
seem to dampen people’s enthusiasm.
Possibly with an eye to the weather forecast, the organisers had provided an open-sided marquee, which provided shelter for both performers and the audience on the “busker stage” and the Green Hop beers were also housed in a much larger tent than I recall from previous years.
seem to dampen people’s enthusiasm.
Possibly with an eye to the weather forecast, the organisers had provided an open-sided marquee, which provided shelter for both performers and the audience on the “busker stage” and the Green Hop beers were also housed in a much larger tent than I recall from previous years.
So what about the beers? First, the majority of the cask offerings
were Green Hop Beers, and I counted a total of 27 Kentish brewers offering their
wares. It was disappointing to discover there had been a problem with local
favourite Larkin’s, but it was made up for by the 4.2% Fuggles Bitter from Old
Dairy Brewery. This for me, was definitely beer of the festival, and I know that
several of my companions felt the same.
Old Dairy will definitely be one to watch in the Green Hop
category at my local branch’s Beer Festival, which is run jointly with local
Heritage Railway group, the Spa Valley Railway. The Tenterden-based brewery have
won the Green Hop Beer competition at the festival, on at least two previous
occasions, including last year, and from what we tasted on Friday, it would be
no surprise to see them picking up another award.
Although the majority of the GHBs were either bitters or
pale ales, there were a couple of green-hoped porters. To my mind anyway, the
concept doesn’t work as well with dark beers, as it does with lighter ones.
This is because the dry, roast coffee and chocolate flavours in beers such as
porter and stout, tend to overwhelm the more delicate floral and fruity
bitterness associated with pale coloured ones. In addition, the roasted malts used to provide both flavour and colour in darker beers, often impart a bitterness of their own. This can often be quite harsh and over-whelming.
This brings me onto my final point, which was that whilst
all the green-hopped beers I tried on Friday were good, there was little to
distinguish them from their normal dry-hop counterparts. Several of my
companions said the same thing, and we think this is because over the course
of the decade or so that green hopped
beers have been produced, brewers have
become more adept at using hops in their natural “wet” state.
We all remembered that many of those initial green-hopped
beers had a rich resinous taste, with an almost oily texture to them,
(you could actually feel the hops resins coating your tongue and the roof of your
mouth). Many brewers now seem to have cut down on the amount of wet hops used. We suspect
they were adding them at the same rate to the brew-kettle, as they
would the normal dried hops.
So by cutting the amount of green hops used to brew this
uniquely seasonal type of beer, they have unwittingly removed the very
characteristics that attracted drinkers to green-hopped beers in the first
place. Effectively they have turned a unique and very time of year dependent
beer, into just a another run of the mill and rather ordinary one.
This doesn’t detract from what was an excellent day out, and from a
long weekend which showcases the very best that Kent
has to offer in terms of food and drink. Combine this with the normally
benign, early autumn weather, and the splendid setting of Canterbury’s
Dane John
Gardens, and you have a uniquely
English experience, which is well worth putting in your diary.
Footnote: for details of the process by which Green Hop beers are produced, and the rules governing the times between harvesting and adding to the brew-kettle, please follow this link.
Please also be aware that similar “wet” hop beers are now produced at harvest time, in other hop-growing regions of the world, including Belgium, the Czech Republic and the USA.
It would be interesting to discover whether these beers have
suffered a similar loss in the very properties which make them so special, and
so unique.