Harvey's - the Holy Grail of brewery tours

Tours of Harvey’s are notoriously hard to come by, as normally there is a 3-4 year waiting list, so when West Kent CAMRA offered a tour of the brewery to the volunteers who helped at last year’s Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival, as a “thank-you”, I jumped at the chance.

We had good reason to be going to Harvey’s, as their Bonfire Boy – a seasonal, darkish ale, had been voted “beer of the festival.” at the previous year’s event. Ex-branch chairman, and joint festival organiser Craig, had managed to pull a few strings, and being in the licensed trade himself obviously helped when it came to arranging the tour.

This was definitely my fourth tour of Harvey’s Brewery and possibly my fifth, but whatever the tally, the previous one took place a quarter of a century ago. I’m pleased to report though that very little has changed and, what’s more, as on all previous trips, we had the incomparable Miles Jenner as our guide. Miles is the renowned and highly-respected head brewer at Harvey’s; a post he has held for many years, after following his father into the role.

So on a sunny, and fairly warm Saturday, just over a week ago, our party boarded the specially chartered, comfortable 52 seat coach in Tonbridge, and set off on the drive down to Lewes.  There were other pickups along the way; most noticeably Tunbridge Wells and Crowborough. 

We arrived in Lewes shortly before 11am, and after the driver had parked the coach at the rear of Harvey’s, we were met by Miles and led round to  the brewery yard in front of the company’s impressive tower brewery. Miles began by recounting the  history of brewery from its founding to the present day.

It is worth noting that Harvey's is the oldest independent brewery in Sussex. It is a family business, and the brewery has been in the guardianship of seven generations of John Harvey's descendants since 1790;  with five family members from the seventh and eighth generations currently working there.

 

Miles’s  narrative was  interspersed with fascinating facts and often amusing anecdotes. For example, the Cliffe area of Lewes was a completely separate settlement from the main town, up on hill, and was rather looked down upon by the more affluent townsfolk who lived up there.

 As well as being brewers and wine merchants, Harvey’s were also coal merchants; coal being just one of many commodities brought up to Lewes, by barge, along the River Ouse. It’s probably just as well I wasn’t taking notes, otherwise I’d be boring you all to death by now. 

Suffice to say, the brewing business at the Bridge Wharf site has expanded steadily over the years and today, Harvey’s beers are well known throughout south-east England, and can be enjoyed in the company’s 45 pubs. They are also available in an extensive free-trade area covering the counties of Sussex, Kent and Surrey.

One other thing worth mentioning before we entered the brewery, is that  Harvey’s have sunk a couple of artesian wells to tap into a source of brewing water or “liquor”, as brewers insist on calling it. Prior to that they relied on the town supply which, during the 19^th Century, was sometimes contaminated.

After the  introductory talk we followed Miles up into the brewery, an attractive rd-brick building, constructed on a tower principle to the design of the well-known brewery architect, William Bradford. To increase capacity a second, smaller tower, was added during the late 1980’s in front of the original. By using bricks especially made to match 19^th Century ones, and cast iron window-frames which were copies of the originals, it is difficult to tell the old and the new apart.

We viewed the brewery’s two mash tuns, and Miles related a tale about the oldest of the pair. It was acquired, at auction, from the defunct Page & Overton Brewery at Croydon. Miles attended the sale as a young boy, with his father, who was bidding for the valuable copper vessel against a group of scrap metal merchants.

The bidding got quite heated, until Edward Charrington, of the well-known London brewing family who was in charge of the proceedings, intervened and told those present that Mr Jenner wanted the mash tun to brew beer in, at Lewes. The scrap-dealers relented, with one shouting out “Let him have it then”, and so Harvey’s acquired their mash tun.

Unlike modern breweries which have silos for bulk supplies of malt, Harvey’s still use malt supplied in sacks, and these have to be hoisted to the top of brewery before brewing can commence. We then moved on to the hop-store where whole hops, packed either in traditional “pockets” or more often now, in tightly compressed blocks, are used, as opposed to the hop pellets favoured by many breweries  today.  

Harvey’s source their hops locally, from growers in Sussex, Kent and Surrey, and contracts are placed up to four years in advance. This ensures adequate supplies of their preferred hops, which in the main are long established varieties such as Fuggles, Goldings, Progress and Bramling Cross.

We viewed the remainder of the brewing equipment,  such as the two coppers plus hop back, before moving along to the fermentation room. Harvey’s at times seems like a museum, but it is very much a working one, and the tried and tested methods used, ensure beers of the highest quality.

Because brewing in this traditional manner is quite labour intensive, production costs are higher than at more modern, fully-automated breweries, and these have to be passed on to the consumer. Miles makes no apologies for this, and the continued popularity of Harvey’s beers is proof people are prepared to pay a higher price for a premium product.  

Our final port of call, before the all important sampling cellar was the fermenting room, where the beer ferments away in a double row of open-top fermenters. Many of the vessels are quite old, but still fully functional. Harvey’s have used the same yeast for the past 60 years, and the strain originally came from the John Smiths Brewery in Tadcaster. You can watch and listen here as Miles tells the tale of how his father sourced and acquired the yeast.

And so to the sampling cellar, situated in the base of the brewery, next to the racking line. Here we were treated to a selection of different Harvey’s cask beers, all poured straight from the cask. These ranged from the 3.0% Dark Mild, to a specially-racked cask of Prince of Denmark. The latter is a strong, dark 7.5%,  bottled beer, which only very occasionally appears in cask.

Miles had found a cask of the beer, with a BBE date of 2016. Given its high strength it was still perfectly drinkable, but most of us sensibly left this beer until last. I started off with the Dark Mild and then moved up through the gravities, enjoying a couple of glasses of the delectable XXXX Old Ale. I also sampled Harvey’s Wharf IPA for the first time. This 4.8% beer is normally only available in keg, so it was a real treat to sample it in cask form.

The company had very generously laid on a buffet for us, which helped soak up some of the beer. As well as sandwiches there were bowls of chips, samosas and chicken goujons; all of which was well received.

As stated previously, I put off sampling the cask Prince of Denmark until the end of the tour. It is certainly a complex beer, and one to be savoured, with aromas of leather, chocolate and liquorice which combine to create a lingering taste. Miles reckoned the beer had been brewed in 2015, so the stuff we were drinking was getting on to be four years old!

All the beer were served to us in what looked like plastic cups, but a closer inspection revealed they were made from plant starch. As such they were 100% compostable and 100% biodegradable. Most breweries take care to recycle items such as spent grain and spent hops, and Harvey’s are no exception, but they go a stage further with their beer bottles, as these can be returned to the brewery for washing and re-filling.

I think I’m right in saying they are currently the only UK brewery which uses returnable bottles. I had a couple of dozen, gathering dust  in my shed, so I brought them along on the trip, and returned them at the Brewery Shop, prior to the tour.

The shop proved quite a hit with other participants on the tour and was a good place to finish with. One last thing, as Peter Falk would say, if you ever get the chance to tour Harvey’s, then no matter what JUST GO!!!

Cooper's Arms - Re-visited

I’ve yet to write up the account of last Saturday’s visit to Harvey’s Brewery, but in the meantime, here’s a post about the Cooper’s Arms at Crowborough. Our coach made a brief stop at the pub, in between leaving Lewes and arriving at Cellar Head Brewing.

The Cooper’s is an attractive late Victorian building perched on the side of the hill, in an affluent residential area to the west of Crowborough. It is constructed out of brick and local stone, with a terrace at the front. Internally there is one long and quite narrow bar, which opens up at both ends. There are rooms leading off at either end as well. The Cooper’s Arms is a flourishing free-house which as well as supporting local breweries (in particular Dark Star), holds regular beer festivals.

I first became acquainted with the Cooper’s nearly 30 years ago, when I was working in nearby Tunbridge Wells. I was taken there for lunch by the owner of the company who handled our the print requirements. The pub was his local, and straight away I could see why he liked the place. Back then it was a Charington’s tied house and as such, served a very acceptable pint of Draught Bass. It also offered an extremely good lunch!

Moving swiftly forward to 2007 when, after several changes of job, I returned to the Cooper’s Arms with a group of local CAMRA members, to find it too had undergone several changes. After a spell under Greene King’s ownership, the pub had become a thriving free-house, and at the time of our visit was holding a mini-beer festival celebrating that most threatened of native beer-styles, mild ale.

I have been back several times since then, most noticeably to attend a couple of the pub’s Dark and Delicious Winter Beer Festivals. This is an annual event hosted by the Cooper’s at the end of each January. There are normally a dozen or so strong, “winter ales”, most of them on the dark side, although not exclusively.

As you can imagine, this is a popular event and the pub tends to get really crowded, so it was nice to call in when it was less busy; although our party of 40 did bring one or two problems of its own. Fortunately our tour organiser had warned the pub beforehand that we were coming, and I’m given to understand that they forewent their normal mid-afternoon, closed session, and opened up especially for us.

It’s quite a trek to the pub from the centre of Crowborough, and if you are on foot it’s one of those walks where you keep thinking the pub is just around the next corner, or just over the brow of the hill. Fortunately arriving by coach did away with this lengthy walk, but it’s worth mentioning that the route down to the pub passes some large and very posh looking houses, many of which have splendid views out towards the High Weald.

The pub is situated in a side road, which falls away sharply as you turn into it. Before the road starts to descend, there are some quite spectacular views towards the edge of Ashdown Forest; a reminder, if one was needed, that Crowborough is the highest town in South East England.  

I didn’t rush into the pub, preferring instead to let the rush die down. I’d had plenty of beer at Harvey’s so was in no hurry to get some more in. When I eventually stepped inside, most people had chosen their beer and had moved away from the bar. There were a familiar favourites, but pride of place went to the four beers from the Engineer Brewery. Describing itself as a “nano brewery", the company are based at High Hurstwood, a small village in the heart of the Sussex Weald. 

Their beers are hand-brewed in small batches, which gives them the ability to  produce virtually any style. Two local pubs are supplied regularly at present; one being the Hurstwood in High Hurstwood, whilst the other is the Cooper’s.

The Engineer’s aim is to make a high quality product using the best available ingredients appropriate to the style, from local suppliers where possible and, as with Cellar Head which we visited after leaving the Cooper’s, the brewery does not use finings, filtration or pasteurisation in the production of any of its beers.

Amongst our party was John Packer, who is the brewer and proprietor of the Engineer Brewery. I’m certain he must have been both pleased and proud to see four of his beers adorning the bar. As shown in the earlier photo, the beers were, from left to right, Pink IPA, Sussex Altbier, Golden Ale and Whisky Imperial Oatmeal Stout.

I opted for the Altbier which was an excellent interpretation of this classic German beer style from, Düsseldorf. I also had a small taste of the Imperial Stout, which was on the strong side at 6.8%, but was a lot smoother in taste than the Prince of Denmark Ale we’d been treated to earlier, down at Harvey’s. Some of the party tried the Pink IPA, a 4.5% pale ale, packed full of citrus flavours from both the hops and also whole grapefruit.

It was a real pity that this brief visit was sandwiched in between the two brewery visits, as I would have liked the chance to sample what appear to be some really great beers at a much more leisurely basis.  That’s what comes when you try and cram too much into a day.

On the plus side, it was good to renew my acquaintance with the excellent Cooper’s Arms, and to have glimpse of what the Engineer Brewery is capable of turning out. For a closer look at the company, click on their website, here.

 

Cellar Head Brewing Company

On Saturday I attended a tour of Harvey’s Brewery, in Lewes, East Sussex, along with around 40 other local CAMRA members and supporters. The tour was a “thank-you” from West Kent CAMRA for the volunteers who helped at last year’s Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival.

As you might expect, the tour was interesting, informative and enjoyable. I am in the process of writing a full article, detailing our visit, but for the time being here is a short post about Cellar Head Brewing Company, a local brewery whose premises we visited on the return journey from Lewes.

You might think that two brewery visits in one day was a bit much, but that depends on your point of view, as with proper pacing of one’s drinking, and just the right amount of self-discipline, it was perfectly possible to combine the two and manage to feel alright the following day.

Cellar Head Brewing Company was founded by Chris and Julia McKenzie in 2017. They were joined by Dave Berry, whose previous brewing experience included stints at both Old Dairy Brewery and Tonbridge Brewery. Joining Cellar Head gave Dave the opportunity to become Head Brewer along with the chance to brew beers to his own recipes for local drinkers to enjoy!

Cellar Head's cask beers are un-fined, which means they carry a natural haze and are also vegan-friendly. In addition they do not filter or pasteurise their bottled beers and neither do they artificially carbonate them. Instead they undergo a natural secondary fermentation in the bottle which, they claim, results in a gentle, light fizz which gives a more refined texture and mouth-feel.

The weekend saw Cellar Head celebrating their 2^nd birthday, and to mark this milestone the brewery held a birthday bash at their new brewery and taproom, which is just off the A21 at Flimwell. As the West Kent CAMRA coach would be passing close by, on our way back from Harvey’s, it seemed rude not to stop of and join in the fun.

We arrived shortly before 5pm, having stopped off briefly at the Cooper’s Arms, Crowborough – more about the Cooper’s in another post. Cellar Head’s premises are situated down a rather narrow lane, and with all the parked cars belonging to other visitors, our driver found it rather difficult to squeeze the coach past and find a suitable parking place, but all credit due, he managed it.

The party was in full swing when we arrived, with plenty of thirsty punters, as well as quite a few families, sat at picnic-benches both inside and out. The brewery itself is housed in a small industrial-type unit and obviously a complete contrast to Harvey’s. The bar was housed directly opposite the entrance, with the brewing plant and fermenting vessels off to the right.

There were three beers on hand-pump, plus a couple of keg ones. In view of the fine weather, I opted for the 4.0% Spring Ale, a zesty, light pale ale, with plenty of citrus notes. The 4.3%  Festival Pale also looked interesting, but in view of the amount of beer I’d consumed earlier, I thought it wise to pace myself. Instead, I went in search of something to eat.

There was a food truck parked outside, with the usual fast-food offerings popular at outdoor events. The prices seemed on the high side, with the burgers selling at £8.00 a throw! I am always a little suspicious when I see the word “gourmet” as to me the term often means over-priced and over-rated, but perhaps I am a little out of touch with the going rate at such events.

Despite my mis-givings, hunger got the better of me and I gave in to the temptation of pulled pork in a bun for a pound less. It was tasty enough,  but if I hadn't been hungry, I wouldn't  have splashed out like that. The truck didn’t seem overly busy, which made me think that with lots of people there with their kids, eight pound a pop was on the dear side for a "family-friendly" event.

Now I don’t wish to sound like a moany old git, but I’ve another gripe relating to the toilet facilities – or perhaps the lack of them! The single WC, which served for both sexes, inevitably meant long queues. Anyone who has completed the Bermondsey Beer Mile will know what I mean, so my question is, that whilst such facilities are obviously adequate for the day to day running of the brewery, when a function involving large numbers of members of the public takes place, why not hire a few Porta-Loos?

These issues aside, the Cellar Head birthday bash seemed a fun event with everyone having a good time. The whole brewery-taproom set-up, along with the al fresco drinking, reminded me of the Vanish Woods Brewery in Leesburg, VA, which I visited whilst attending the Beer Bloggers & Writer’s Conference in the United Sates, last August. 

With its stunning rural setting with views over the local country side – this time across to Bewl Water, and the families there with their children, enjoying a few beers, I could have been back in rural Virginia. There was even a duo blasting out country and western music in the bar!

Having eaten, and queued for the “facilities”, I was in the mood for one final beer, but this idea was scuppered by the announcement that our coach would be departing shortly. Somewhat reluctantly we rounded ourselves up and boarded the coach.

All things considered it had been a good bash, with a chance to enjoy some fine and fresh Cellar Head beers on their own turf. It was also a  good way to round off  our trip into deepest Sussex.

Spring has sprung - the Hopbine, Pettridge

Petteridge is a tiny and quiet Kent hamlet which lies roughly halfway between the villages of Brenchley and Matfield, but slightly to the south of them. It would remain as just an anonymous spot on the map were it not for the fact it contains a rather nice little pub.

The Hopbine is an attractive, part weather-boarded, and part tile-hung building built into the side of a hill, at the top of a leafy lane opposite a row of cottages. Although its exact age is uncertain, the Hopbine has only been a pub since 1949, when it was converted from two cottages; one of which had traded as an off-sales outlet, selling beer and cider to local agricultural workers. Evidence of this can be seen internally, by the fireplace which partially separates one part of the pub from the other.

After operating as a free house for many years, the pub was acquired in 1984 by the Horsham-based brewers, King & Barnes, becoming the brewery’s first and, as it turned out, only tied house in Kent. In 2000, Dorset based Hall & Woodhouse, announced a takeover of King & Barnes; the Horsham brewery was closed and the company’s 65 pubs became part of the Badger estate.

Nearly six years ago, the long serving landlord Mike and his wife "B"  (we never found out her actual name), announced their retirement after clocking up 25 years behind the bar. I remember Mike saying at the time that Hall & Woodhouse were planning to sell the pub, once the couple had stepped down, and today the Hopbine is now in private ownership serving two local beers along with two guests and a cider. 

I first became familiar with the Hopbine during the mid 1980’s, shortly after I began work at a small pharmaceutical company, based at nearby Lamberhurst. Because of the cramped nature of the Lamberhurst site, the company purchased a plot of land at Petteridge, where they erected a storage and distribution centre.

It was on a visit to this facility that I first became acquainted with the Hopbine I have been a visitor to the pub ever since, although not as frequently as I would have liked,  particularly in recent years, so on Friday I decided to renew my acquaintance with the Hopbine. I’d booked the day off as my car was due its annual service and MOT, so after leaving it at the service centre I took the train, one stop down the line from Tonbridge, to Paddock Wood.

The route I took was one I have walked on several past occasions, back in the day when a walk to the Half Way House at Brenchley, for one of their twice yearly beer festivals, formed part of the West Kent CAMRA social calendar. I had a detailed map with me for guidance, but I recalled most of the way. The sun was shining and the temperature rising, and I remember thinking to myself that I should have worn a sun-hat.

The other item I should have worn was a pair of stout walking boots, because whilst the recent spell of warm dry weather had dried up much of the route, the first off-road section out of Paddock Wood was very muddy in parts, which meant normal shoes were quite unsuitable. Fortunately I did have a walking stick with me – something I find essential as age creeps up on me, and this steadied me through the slipperiest sections and prevented several falls. (A stick is also useful when negotiating styles and, should the need arise, would come in handy in warding off any fierce dogs).

This first off-road section involved a steady climb up from the belt of clay flatland surrounding the Tonbridge to Ashford railway line, towards the section of south-east England, known as the High Weald. It was a pleasant route through a number of neat and regimented, newly planted orchards, passed a couple of converted farm dwellings, and into an area of woodland.

Eventually I reached the picture-postcard village of Matfield, complete with its extensive green and associated duck pond. Matfield has two pubs, (there were three until a few years ago); the Star and the Poet. Both look rather upmarket, particularly the Poet, which is really more of a restaurant. Years ago it was a simple country pub, known as Standing’s Cross.

I diverted off along a footpath which forms part of the High Weald Landscape Trail, which allowed me to walk, off road, all the way to Petteridge. The last section was through woodland, which afforded some respite from the fierce sun, but upon reaching the little hamlet, a right turn brought me into the quaintly named, Tibbs Court Lane, and then to the Hopbine.

There were several groups of drinkers seated outside, both at the front as well as the side of the pub, but before going in I made use of the facilities at the rear of the building; as the Hopbine is now the only pub I know in the area that still possesses an outside gents toilet.

Mission accomplished I stepped inside the pub. Nothing much seemed to have changed since my previous visit, nearly six years ago, which was encouraging, and the place was busy with  several groups of diners. There were a few spare tables, but given the glorious weather I wanted to sit outside and take full advantage of the Spring sunshine.

Before doing so, I ordered myself a pint, opting for the Cellar Head 3.8% Session Pale Ale, in preference to the offerings from Long Man and Tonbridge Brewery. I was glad I did as it was in fine form, pale, cool, well-conditioned and well-hopped. It scored an easy 4.0 NBSS.

I sat outside at one of the bench tables after a  friendly couple had made room for me. Noticing my stick and map, the revealed they were also keen walkers, and often walked to the Hopbine from their home in nearby Brenchley. The beer slipped down all too easily, but whilst I was tempted to have another pint, I restricted myself to just a half,  full in the knowledge that I would have to drive later.

Food-wise I’d picked up a smoked ham and Cheddar sub roll at the Tesco Express in Paddock Wood, but I saved that for the return journey. Instead I treated myself to a bag of “Proper Black Country Pork Scratchings” and not only were they very nice, with just the right amount of crunch, but my fillings appear to have survived too.

For the homeward journey, I followed Tibbs Court Lane for a while, before turning off onto a northward leading footpath which brought me into Brenchley. I have walked that path before, and if you continue on it, you arrive at the Halfway House. This time I wanted to be just to the west of Brenchley village, where another path leads back towards Paddock Wood.

After passing a couple of very well-appointed houses, the route took me through some orchards, before a long descent through an abandoned golf course, and back to Paddock Wood. It is several years since I last passed that way and the golf course, which was a victim of the 2008 banking crisis, has continues to revert back to nature. You can still make out a few overgrown bunkers, but the greens and the fairways have long disappeared.

I arrived back in Paddock Wood at around 3.30pm, and as I approached the station, received a phone call telling me that the service on my car was complete and that it had passed its MOT for another year. After a 20 minute wait for the train, I was back in Tonbridge to collect it.

The tracking device on my phone told me I’d walked just over 11.6 kilometres (I haven’t worked out how to change the units to miles yet). It had been a glorious spring day of virtually wall to wall sunshine and with blossom on the trees and everything coming into leaf, the Kent countryside was starting to look its very best.

As for the Hopbine, it was good to renew my acquaintance and good to see the pub nice and busy. The only slight cloud on the horizon was the news from a CAMRA colleague that the place is up for sale.

Not all beer & skittles

I know I’m unlikely to be believed when I say it’s not a junket or a jolly attending a trade event like the International Dental Show; even if it does take place in foreign parts. It’s actually even worse when the show is held in a location known for good beer and some equally fine places in which to drink it, because instead of wandering around and visiting these establishments, you’re stuck inside a vast, windowless exhibition hall.

However, before I list some of the pitfalls of a week away on company business, it was actually good being out of the UK last week and away from the all-consuming madness which is Brexit. It’s rather galling though to be in a country like Germany, which is obviously doing rather well; and to think this was Britain before Cameron pulled his crazy referendum stunt. So, unless you’re the most rabid of Brexiteers, it’s rather sickening to look back at where we were as a country in 2015, and think, “This could and should have been us!”

That’s enough of politics; now let’s get back to the trade shows. I was in Cologne on company business so was obviously there to work, and it’s worth bearing in mind that it cost the company a lot of money to rent exhibition space and send my colleagues and I to Germany for the week.

The company have been exhibiting at IDS since the 1990’s, and the one member of our team who has attended every one of the shows says the event gets bigger and better every time. This was my fifth attendance at IDS;  my first show being in 2007. I missed out on 2013 and 2015, primarily to give other in the company the chance to take part. We have stayed at the same hotel since 2009; a small family-run business which is just five minutes walk away from the main station, and slightly under 30 minutes walk away from  Kӧln Messe – the vast complex of exhibition halls on the eastern bank of the River Rhine.

It is worth mentioning that on my first visit to IDS I stayed on one of the river cruisers which normally ply up and down the Rhine. During what is a slack period for river cruising, these comfortable and well-equipped vessels are pressed into service to provide additional accommodation for the tens of thousands of visitors who flock to Cologne every two years for the dental show.

I hadn’t been with the company very long, and my attendance at IDS was something of an afterthought., but I was more than pleased with my well-appointed and centrally located accommodation. My cabin was on the lower deck, which was partly below the water-line. It was a strange experience looking out from my berth to see the waters of the Rhine just below the level of the window, and quite scary to experience the wash created every time one of the massive cargo barges, which sail up and down the river, passed by.

I said at the beginning that it’s no picnic attending one of these events, and whilst there are obvious compensations  in so much that one’s board, lodging and travel expenses are covered by the company, the days are long and quickly merge into equally long evenings, with next to no time for one’s self.

As an example, the show’s opening hours are 9am – 6pm, Tuesday to Saturday, and it is essential that there is at least one person manning the stand during those hours. It is around 30 minutes on foot from the hotel to  Kӧln Messe, and whilst on a fine day the walk across the River Rhine, via the Hohenzollern Bridge (Cologne’s equivalent of London’s Hungerford Bridge), can act as an exhilarating pre-show wake-up, in bad weather it can be pretty bleak and rather exposed up there, and not the best of places to be.

Leaving the exhibition at 6pm prompt, means arriving back at the hotel 30 minutes later. Although we had two free evenings which were quite leisurely, the remainder were a bit of a whirl, especially on the Thursday when we were guests of the European arm of our Japanese parent company, and with a 7pm start to the function, it really was a manic rush to get smartened up, and back across the river to the Regency Hyatt Hotel where the dinner was taking place.

Our Japanese directors pulled a similar stunt the following evening; again within a 7pm start, although that particular dinner was a much more casual affair and took place on the same side of the Rhine as our hotel.

All this rushing left virtually no time for serious beer exploration, although you will have gathered from a couple of my previous posts that we did manage to visit a couple of Cologne’s classic beer halls. As for site-seeing, I have done most of that on previous more leisurely trips, and having ascended one of the spires of Cologne’s magnificent cathedral on my first visit to the city, I have no intention of repeating the climb some 45 years on!

So there we have it, and whilst it was undoubtedly a tiring and at times quite boring week, it was still not an opportunity or experience to miss. Whether the 2019 event is my last, remains to be seen, but overall the shared camaraderie which develops between colleagues whilst away from home made it an entertaining and above all enjoyable visit to Cologne.

A new angle on an old friend

I spent Saturday afternoon and early evening in London. I won’t go into too much detail as to why I was there, but I was accompanied by a million or so of my fellow citizens, and just before 5pm I found myself in Parliament Square.

Although the addresses to the crowd had finished, people were still flooding into the area. I decided it was time to find somewhere quieter and somewhere I could enjoy a well earned pint or two. Westminster Underground Station was understandably closed, so I cut through to St James’s Park, glad of the open space and less people.

With a one day, all-zones London Travel Card tucked into my wallet I decided that my best bet was to get out of Central London for a while, find a place for that quiet drink I craved, and let the crowds die down, before taking the train home. Having just walked from Hyde Park to Westminster, I also didn’t fancy having to trudge much further to find a suitable watering-hole.

St James’s Park station was open, so I headed down onto the platform and jumped on the second westbound District Line train (the first one was bursting at the seems). My plan was to make for the Dove; the historic riverside pub, owned by Fuller’s. It had been many a year since my last visit, but whilst I had a London A-Z in my rucksack, I couldn’t remember the location of the pub.

With no Wi-Fi and no 4G signal on my phone, I was a bit stuck, but as the train edged towards South Kensington I suddenly had a brain-wave. I remembered an old favourite from the early real ale scene in the capital, and that particular pub was the Anglesea Arms. What’s more I remembered the pub’s address as  Selwood Terrace – funny how certain things lodge in one’s sub-consciousness. 

A quick scan of the A-Z before the train pulled into South Kensington showed the pub was only about 10 minutes walk away; perfectly do-able, even for a weary and foot-sore “citizen of nowhere”, so after alighting from the train and exiting the station, I made my way along the Old Brompton Road towards my destination.

I must admit my heart sank a little, as when I saw the crowd of people milling around outside, all thoughts of a quiet drink vanished. However, having come that far I was determined to at least have one pint, even though the crush at the bar was several people deep. There were individuals in front of me, ordering all manner of fancy cocktails, so when it came to my turn, I’m sure the barman was relieved that I only wanted a pint of biter.

I opted for a pint of Hopfest, a 3.8% Pale Ale from Mad Squirrel Brewery. It set me back £4.70 and, as with the offering I had from Bedlam Brewery the other night in Tunbridge Wells, the beer was a disappointment. It wasn’t off or lacking in condition; it just lacked the hoppiness promised by the name.

I found a ledge amongst the throng, where I could rest my pint and take a few photos. I was especially pleased to see the lovely old pub mirror still in place,  advertising Salt & Co.’s Pale & Burton Ales. The rest of the interior was also pretty much as I remembered it, although I don’t ever recall seeing the pub so packed.

Given the crowds I decided that one pint was sufficient and I should head back into Central London, for a pint close to Charing Cross. Unfortunately both the Chandos and the Harp, my two pubs of choice close to the station, were equally packed, mainly with  people who’d attended the same event as me.

Not wishing to fight my way through to the bar for a second time, I gave up and caught the 19.30 train back to Tonbridge, where son Matthew was waiting to give his old dad a lift home from the station.

Footnote: The Anglesea Arms is a legendary free-house, which was one of the first pubs in London to capitalise on the growing interest in "real ale", by offering a selection of beers which could not be found anywhere else in the capital.

Following my first visit in the summer of 1974, the Anglesea Arms became a regular place of pilgrimage over the following few years and, certainly during my student days, no visit to London was complete without a trip to South Kensington in order to see what was on offer there. To walk in through its doors and be greeted with a new set of pump clips was always a pleasure, and for a lad who was just approaching his 20^th birthday, it was like an Aladdin’s Cave.

I have fond memories of many a happy summer’s evening spent on the outside terrace, enjoying a selection of new and interesting ales in the company of friends, and now, four and a half decades on, it is good to see this lovely old pub is thriving, and is still as popular as ever.