You’d have to be a real Philistine to not have a soft spot
for a lovely old town like Rye.
With its cobbled streets and narrow passages, the town is a treasure trove of Medieval, Tudor and Georgian buildings, some
of which are real architectural treasures, and beautifully preserved.
Often referred to as the
“Ancient town of Rye”,
this gem of a place is set on a hill overlooking the
River Rother; a situation
which meant it was an important member of the
Cinque
Ports confederation, during medieval times.
Rye
is no longer the port it once was, as the sea retreated from the town centuries ago, leaving
it stranded, a couple of miles inland.
Today, Rye relies on its appeal as a tourist attraction and
attracts visitors from all over the world The old part of the town, which is
contained within the former town walls has numerous shops, art galleries, pubs
and restaurants. Apart from its tourist base, Rye
continues to operate as a port; albeit on a much reduced scale, with a small
fishing fleet berthed at the Strand Quay at the edge of the town, and a larger
one at nearby Rye Harbour.
Mrs PBT’s and I spent part of our honeymoon in the
town, staying at the historic
Mermaid Inn, an historic old inn with a long,
turbulent history. The current building dates from
1420 and has 16th-century
Tudor style additions. The cellars pre-date this, having been dug out in 1156.
The
Mermaid was a stronghold of the notorious
Hawkhurst
Gang of smugglers, who used it in the 1730s and 1740s.
Although Mrs PBT’s and I had stopped off in Rye, for fish
and chips, back in December, it had been sometime since I had wandered along
its ancient streets, so when Retired Martin came up with a plan to visit the
town last Friday, I jumped at the chance. Earlier last week, I booked a well
deserved and much needed day off from work and eagerly waited for Friday to arrive.
Several months ago, the pair of us had loosely discussed a
visit to the
Ypres Castle in
Rye; a lovely old pub now run by
the legendary
Jeff Bell. This followed the
Ypres being
selected for the
CAMRA Good Beer Guide. I’d reminded
Martin of this plan, only
to discover that he’d subsequently visited the pub and
“ticked” it, but as he
was travelling down to
Sussex anyway, to tick off a further two pubs (
see previous post), he was happy to re-visit J
eff’s pub before completing the
aforementioned
GBG ticks.
As RM’s route passed close to my house, he kindly picked me
up on what turned out to be a beautiful sunny day, once we had left the thick
fog which had enveloped Tonbridge, behind us. We arrived at Rye
at around 11.30am , and after Martin
had parked the car in a quiet side-street, we walked up into the town, entering
through the historic Land Gate. We then made our way along to Gun
Gardens, below the landmark Ypres
Tower, but as we were running
early, and the Ypres Castle
didn’t open until midday, we took the
opportunity to ascend the church tower.
My last ascent was when son Matthew was still at primary
school, and before that I recall climbing up the tower with my father, when I
was still school boy. This was a first for Martin, although I discovered that
he’s the veteran of several arduous church tower ascents, including Cologne
cathedral, and Ulm Minster - the tallest church in the world.
Now I too have climbed to the top of Cologne’s
massive cathedral, but that was over 40 years ago and today, the church
of St Mary the Virgin is quite
enough for me. The climb is well worth the £4 fee as the church is situated at
the highest point in Rye and the
360 degree view over the ancient rooftops, and out to Rye Harbour Nature
Reserve, Camber Sands and Winchelsea, is not to be missed. Although it was still
somewhat hazy, with the sun shining brightly above us, we were rewarded with a
real picture-postcard view of the town and the surrounding area.
After leaving the church, we made our way along to the Ypres
Castle, which is built on the side
of the town ramparts, and is reached by descending a series of steep stone
steps. It is an attractive, white-painted building, decked out in places with
the weatherboarding which is traditional in this part of south-east England.
The pub dates back to the 17th Century, and I have
known it on and off over the years, from visits to Rye.
It has everything you would expect from such a venerable old inn - roaring
fires in winter, and plenty of old beams and standing timbers. I’ve always
regarded the Ypres Castle
as a special sort of pub, given its tucked away location, so last year I was
pleased to learn that it had been bought
by Jeffrey Bell, a lawyer turned pub landlord, who established a legendary
reputation for running a good pub, during his tenure of the Gunmaker’s in London’s
Clerkenwell area.
Jeff also writes his own
blog, under the name of
Stonch’s Beer Blog, and that along with the
Gunmaker’s and his subsequent pub, the
Finborough Arms in
West
Brompton, is what most people know him for. Given
Jeff’s
reputation for looking after beer, and running a good pub, it was no surprise
to see the
Ypres selected for this year’s
Good Beer
Guide.
The pub was quite quiet at
12.15pm
when
Martin and I walked through the door, with just a handful of customers,
but it didn’t take long for the place to fill up. We did a quick scan of
the
pump-clips, both opting for the
Ăber
Brew from
Old Dairy Brewery – a pale coloured 3.8% hoppy pale ale. Also on tap
was L
evel Best from
Rother Valley,
Dark from
Three Legs Brewery (Martin’s next
GBG tick) and from a little further
afield,
Greensand IPA from
Surrey Hills.
As the very pleasant barmaid pulled our pints we enquired
after Jeff. She told us that he would be along in about 20 minutes. We sat
down, opposite the bar to enjoy our beer, which was full of condition,
refreshing to the palate and served
nicely chilled, at perfect cellar temperature.
As we sat there chatting we noticed the influx of customers,
and how the barmaid dealt with them all in a pleasant and professional manner.
Shortly afterwards, the man himself walked through the door, looking and
sounding larger than life. Although neither of us know Jeff that well, he
recognised us both and welcomed us to the Ypres.
He was soon flitting between the bar and the kitchen,
serving customers and bringing out people’s food orders. The latter looked
good, and a look at the menu showed the food offering to be good value. As well
as stocking four cask ales, the Ypres offers a traditional
cider and a perry from Nightingale, who are based in nearby Tenterden. Lovers
of proper lager will not be disappointed either as on tap Jeff offers Röthaus
Pils from the Black Forest in Baden-WĂŒrttemberg and
Oechsner Vier from Bavaria.
As I wasn’t driving, I squeezed in a quick half of Greensand
IPA. This was a much more malt-driven beer than the Old Dairy offering. The pub
was positively buzzing by now, which delighted experienced pub-man, Martin, and
for a weekday lunchtime, in the run up to half term, it was a sight to gladden
the heart of anyone who cares about pubs.
Jeff came over to say goodbye, as we were making to leave,
and said he looked forward to seeing us again. Given the proximity of this
lovely old pub to where I live, and the fact Rye
can be reached fairly easily by train, I don’t think it will be too long before
my next visit.
Footnote: for a more detailed write-up on the Ypres Castle
and Jeffrey Bell, please click on this link to Roger Protz’s website.