“You are invited to attend a tasting of Budweiser
Budvar Fresh Hopped Imperial Lager 7.5% 2017
Vintage. The location The Trading House, Gresham
Street, London,
EC2V; the date Friday 23rd
March. 7.5% Czech Lager, food and Budvar Tank beer included”
Well with an invitation like that I couldn’t really refuse,
especially after missing out on sampling this special beer last year. I duly made
my way to The Trading House, a former bank, close to the Bank of England, in London’s
Gresham Street, in order to
taste this legendary beer.
Fresh Hopped Imperial Lager is a very special beer, brewed once a year using freshly harvested Saaz hops on the day of picking. The beer is then matured for 200 days, with a limited number of kegs making their way to the UK each year!
Along with a number of other beer writers and journalists,
I’d been invited to this event by Budweiser Budvar UK.
We were looked after by Josh Nesfield, the company’s UK
marketing manager. Josh explained that the beer had been racked into kegs at
the brewery in České Budějovice on Tuesday, and then driven across Europe
to London, ready to be tapped for us to drink that Friday.
Fresh Hopped Imperial Lager is brewed to celebrate the harvesting of the hops, which takes place harvested in the Czech
Republic each August. Fresh Saaz
hops, picked by hand, are used to create this special strong beer which is
brewed on the same day as the harvest.
Hop-picking festivals have been held in the Žatec area,
which is the home of the Saaz hop, since
the 18th Century. Originally they were held in the surrounding
villages, but after WWII moved to the town. The festival celebrates the moment
at the beginning of September when the hop harvest is finished – earlier than in
the UK.
Budweiser Budvar is owned by the Czech state, and the
company still use whole cone hops; one of the very few large breweries to do
so. The hops come from the village
of Strkovice, just outside Žatec, and
after picking, are taken to the brewery straight away, so that this special
beer can be brewed on the same day. Normally only one brew is produced, but
occasionally two are made. Fresh Hopped Imperial Lager is a difficult beer to
produce because the volatile hop compounds can soon disappear after harvesting.
The timing required to bringing them to the brewery while still “live” is
therefore crucial.
The fresh hops add aromatic compounds which would normally
be lost during the drying process, and
the uncertainty surrounding their use can mean a change in taste from year to
year. Climatic conditions, together with the soil the hops are grown in,
provides a unique link to the locality. Budvar know exactly where all their
hops come from, and use the same farms and the same fields much like Harvey’s
in the UK.
Budvar’s underground cellars usually play host to its beer for around 90 days. Fresh Hopped Imperial Lager gets an incredible 200 day stay in the maturation vessels. Over that time the beer has a chance to really develop in complexity. Few other beers in the world are matured for as long.
Because this brew is a one-off it also changes year-on-year to reflect conditions, climate or, to borrow a term from the wine world, “terroir” of the exact fields the hops were grown in. Where consistency and tradition is rightly everything to the taste of Budweiser Budvar’s other beers, with Fresh Hopped Imperial Lager there is a bit of room for change. That change continues in the brewery’s maturation cellars.
From the vantage point of small galleried private bar at The
Trading House, high above the lunchtime diners below, I was given a glass of
this excellent beer. For a moment I was tempted to use that awful American term
“awesome”, to describe the beer, but sticking with typical British
understatement instead, I would say it
was “a mighty fine drop”.
Burnished gold in colour and with a full hit of aromatic hops on the nose,
it had me drooling before I’d so much as tasted a drop. The heavy malt profile, associated with a beer
of this strength, offers a great counterpoint to the hops, and there’s a
wonderful, almost honeyed sweetness on the tongue and palate. There’s none of
“spirit-like” taste associated with many high alcohol beers, and the only
downside, if it can be called that, is it’s dangerously drinkable.
Fresh Hopped Imperial Lager is a truly special beer made
even more so by its individuality and changeability from year to year. Every
discerning beer drinker and hophead should look out for it in spring when it’s
released in limited quantities in the UK.
Disclaimer: Whilst at this event, I also enjoyed a tankard
of Tankové Pivo; Budvar’s legendary lager in “tank” form. The
Trading House is one of a small number of UK outlets
which take the beer in this un-pasteurised form.
The beer remains fresh because it is delivered in temperature controlled tanks,
and has a smooth mouth feel because the
tanks are airtight and no air touches the beer.
In addition, I enjoyed some fine “finger food”, courtesy of
Budvar UK. As
well as Josh, I also had a chat with Martin Macourek, UK Director of the Czech Trade Promotion Agency, who are attached to the Czech
Embassy. The Czechs take their beer very seriously, and rightly so!