It has been nearly five months since I last made the journey
to Norfolk, in order to see dad,
and quite a lot has happened since then. For a start my wife Eileen was
hospitalised for five weeks at the beginning of the year, following a bout of
pneumonia. Then there's the news that my sister and her husband have departed
for pastures new in the East Midlands, leaving dad with
no family members close by.
So for several weeks I have been struggling with mixed
loyalties; wanting to go and visit dad, but mindful that my wife was still
convalescing. Finally, at the end of last weekend, I felt able to make the
journey up to Norfolk, safe in the
knowledge that Eileen would be okay left on her own.
I have written before about finding a place to stay
overnight on my trips to see dad, so
whilst looking for somewhere to lay my head, I came across the Red Lion at Kenninghall; a large village roughly halfway between Bury St Edmunds and Norwich.
The Red Lion is a CAMRA National Inventory pub, which has
been on my list of pubs to visit for some time, so when the pub came up on
Bookings.com at a very good price, I jumped at the chance of an overnight stay.
I drove up early on Sunday afternoon, surprised that the
traffic, particularly on the M25, was so heavy. Once past Stansted I made good time,
and with the aid of my sat-nav, arrived in Kenninghall shortly before 5pm. I
made a brief stop at the well-stocked village store, and post office,
before parking up at the Red Lion, which lies in the shadow of the imposing St
Mary's church.
I was shown to a cosy little room at the front of the
building, with a door opening straight out onto the street. I was aware that
the Red Lion wouldn't be serving food on Sunday evening, so had carried out
some prior research to see what the alternatives were. Kenninghall is large
enough to support two pubs, and right in the centre of the village, opposite
the post office, is the White Horse.
The White Horse is a 16th century coaching inn which has
undergone a substantial renovation and the pub, whilst retaining its character
and charm, now has a colourful and contemporary feel to it. There is a long
counter, running the entire length of the rear of the spacious single bar. The
bar itself is divided into two unequal parts by a large central fireplace and
chimney.
Being early evening, the pub wasn't very busy, and as I
approached the bar I noticed there were two beers from Woodforde's making up
the cask line-up; Norfolk Nog, plus the ubiquitous Wherry. I opted for the former and it was pulled up by the pleasant and friendly girl behind the bar.
Dark, sweet and luscious against a background of roasted malt, is how I'd
describe the Nog, and I scored it a worthy 3.5 NBSS. Priced at £3.60 a pint, it
was worth every penny as well.
I grabbed a couple of menus and sat myself down at one of the
tables, resisting the barmaid's suggestion that I try one of the comfy, low sofas.
Low, comfortable sofas and me are not a good combination, as once comfortably
ensconced I find it very difficult to get back up again.
Once seated I perused the menus as well as a couple of local
CAMRA branch magazines which were gracing the bar. "Norfolk Nips", which now
covers the whole of the county, needs little in the way of introduction, whilst
the other magazine, a publication called "Last Orders", is a joint
venture between the Suffolk
and North Essex branches of CAMRA.
Food-wise, I opted for the "Battered catch of the
day". This just happened to be cod (I wonder how often that happens?), and
it arrived on a plate with some deep fried potato slices, which were described
as "hand cut" chips. I enjoyed
my meal along with the Norfolk Nog, treating myself to a further half before
leaving.
So why didn't I stay longer? Well if you're running an
attractive old pub, offering good food and excellent beer, why on earth would
you think it a good idea to have what can best be described as "lounge
music", blasting out of the
speakers? (By this I mean slightly off
tone, jazz-oriented muzak of the sort
used to annoy people placed on hold when phoning a call-centre).
I was tempted to say something, safe in the knowledge I am
unlikely to be returning to the White Horse, but I thought better of it. Instead, as
reporters on a certain, now defunct Sunday paper used to say, I made my excuses
and left!
I wandered back up to the Red Lion, through the steadily gathering
dusk, stopping off at my room to make a phone call home. I also bashed out part
of this article on my lap-top, before popping back next door for a couple of end of evening beers.
There was no-one in the bar and the barmaid was thinking of shutting up for the
night. It was only just after 9pm,
but apparently Sunday evening was normally a quiet time.
Not wishing to deprive a thirsty man of his beer, the
friendly barmaid pulled me a pint, It was Rockabilly from Shortts Farm Brewery,
who are based just outside the Suffolk town of Eye .
It deserved its 4.0 NBSS score, being refreshingly bitter, with citrus flavours
from the use of North American hops.
As I got stuck into my beer the conversation turned to food.
The barmaid had shown me to my room when I first arrived and knowing that the Red
Lion's kitchen was closed on Sunday evenings, we'd already spoken about somewhere
else to eat in Kenninghall.
I described my impressions of the White Horse, and added
that I thought it more of an eating place than anything else. She said it had
had a succession of owners in recent years; each one keen to stamp their own
personality on the pub. According to Whatpub, the current owners are a
family-owned "hospitality company", called. Foodsie 100Ltd.
The conversation then turned to other matters, and I learned
that Kenninghall was both a thriving village and a very pleasant place to live.
I had sort of gathered that from what I'd observed from my walk down to the White
Horse and also from the parish magazine I'd thumbed through earlier. I also
learned quite a bit about the Red Lion, particularly that it was known for the
quality of its beer and that it was much more of a locals' pub than its more
contemporary counterpart.
As mentioned earlier the pub is on CAMRA's heritage pub list
and has been beautifully restored after being closed for approximately seven
years. It re-opened in February 1997, following extensive refurbishment. The
building dates from the early 16th Century, and as well as a traditional public
bar, has a pine panelled snug, which is one of only two of its kind in East
Anglia.
At the other end of the pub is a 50 seater restaurant. laid
out in the style of old stables. I enjoyed a satisfying full English breakfast
there the following morning. In addition to the good, wholesome home-cooked
food, the Red Lion has four guest rooms, and hosts regular live music sessions
and other community events.
I was getting close to finishing my pint when another
customer entered the bar. It turned out he was another guest. Seeing how quiet
the pub was, the newcomer enquired if they were still serving. I could see the
barmaid's face drop slightly, as she saw her desire for an early night vanish,
but seeing as the new arrival was quite chatty, I too ordered another pint.
Motorbike racing was what had brought the other guest to
Kenninghall. His son had spent the weekend racing at the nearby Snetterton Circuit,
just down the road, and dad had travelled up from Somerset
to act as support. Like me, he'd come across the Red Lion on Bookings.com.
Whilst tucking into
my breakfast the following morning, I heard the landlady telling the cleaner
that since registering recently with the booking site, she'd had plenty of
reservations, so it was obviously paying off for the pub.
I would also recommend the Red Lion as a good place to base
yourself in this less frequented south-east corner of Norfolk.
If like me, you are a lover of unspoilt "heritage pubs", then you
can't really go wrong by booking yourself a short stay there.