Lewes Remembers the 5th of November

I had every intention of posting this article earlier. Last weekend would have been particularly apt, seeing as the Lewes November 5th celebrations are the topic of this post, which is really a follow-on from the two-part article about Lewes, which I published back in January. The post kicks off with some background information regarding the origins of Bonfire in Lewes and explains some of the traditions surrounding it. The article then goes on to describe my own personal experience of November 5th in Lewes.

Lewes Bonfire or Bonfire, for short, describes a set of celebrations held in the town of Lewes, Sussex that constitute the United Kingdom's largest and most famous Bonfire Night festivities,  with Lewes being called the "bonfire capital of the world."

Lewes is home to the largest and most celebrated of the festivities in the Sussex bonfire tradition. There are seven societies putting on five separate parades and firework displays on the 5th, and this can mean 3,000 people taking part in the celebrations, and up to 80,000 spectators attending in the small market town which has a permanent population of just under 16,000 people.

The event is organised by the local bonfire societies, under the auspices of the Lewes Bonfire Council.  Six of  Lewes's seven Bonfire Societies hold their celebrations on the same night (5th November, or when the Fifth is on a Sunday, 4th November). The remaining society, Nevill Juvenile, holds its night on a Saturday a couple of weeks before the Fifth.

Each Society has something different to offer. Nevill Juvenile Bonfire Society, for instance, is specifically for children. South Street used to be a juvenile society too, but over the years has changed into an adult one. Waterloo, while an adult society, is perhaps more family-oriented than some others, while the Cliffe, Commercial Square and Lewes Borough societies cling proudly to their respective ancient traditions.

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On November 5th, a number of large effigies are drawn though the streets. Effigies of Guy Fawkes and Pope Paul V, who became head of the Roman Catholic Church in 1605, feature every year. In addition, each of the five main local societies creates a topical "tableau" (usually, but not always, representing a human figure or figures), and the Cliffe Society displays on pikes the heads (also in effigy) of its current "Enemies of Bonfire", who range from nationally reviled figures to local officials who have attempted to place restrictions on the event. Restrictions are generally ignored by the Societies.

As well as the effigies, 17 burning crosses are carried in procession, through the town in memory of 17 Protestant martyrs who were burnt at the stake in Lewes for their faith, during the reign of Queen Mary. The various Bonfire Societies congregate at the War Memorial in the centre of town, where a wreath-laying ceremony takes place as an act of Remembrance for the war dead of Lewes. Afterwards each society marches to its own fire site on the edge of the town, where there a large bonfire and firework display takes place and the various effigies are burned.

Whilst marching nearly all members carry torches, some ignite and drop bangers, locally known as "rookies", (short for rook scarers), and some carry the burning crosses, banners, musical instruments or burning letters spelling out the initials of the society. Many of the marchers wear "smuggler uniforms" (striped jumpers, white trousers, black boots and optional red hats), with each society having a different coloured jumper. Members have to make or buy their own costumes. Torch-making is a time-consuming process and begins in September, or even earlier, with many society members joining in.

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A flaming tar barrel is also thrown into the river Ouse; this is said to symbolise the throwing of the magistrates into the river after they read the Riot Act to the bonfire boys in 1847, but may also be an echo of ancient Samhain traditions. Up to 80,000 people have been known to attend this local spectacle, coming from all over the South and sometimes further afield.

Despite being just an hour’s drive away from Lewes, for a number of reasons I have only attended its famous November 5th celebrations on one occasion. That was back in 1987, when two companions and I caught the train to Lewes in order to experience the Sussex town’s bonfire activities for ourselves. Instead of the more usual route via Redhill, we decided to travel via St Leonards, as one of our number was boarding the train at Tunbridge Wells.

After changing trains at St Leonard’s, our journey took us into Eastbourne before heading west towards Lewes. The journey from Polegate onwards is quite spectacular, as the railway follows a natural gap in the South Downs. The downs form an impressive and slightly foreboding backdrop to the scenery, and as we journeyed on through such delightful stations as Berwick and Glynde the late autumn sunshine and a cloudless sky only added to the beauty of the surrounding countryside.

Arriving in Lewes just after midday, we made straight for the Royal Oak; then a stylishly decorated Beards pub, situated at the top of Station Street. From here we went on to the Brewers Arms, an imposing red-brick pub originally built for the former Croydon brewers Page & Overton, as the moulded brickwork plaques at the entrance still testify.

The next port of call was the Lewes Arms where we were surprised to witness a group dressed as cavaliers sitting drinking at the bar. They were from one of the local bonfire societies, and were the first of many such groups of people in fancy dress that we were to encounter that day.

Finally, we ended up in the Black Horse, where we encountered a substantial number of revellers dressed as vikings. The "Beards" ales in this particular pub were especially fine, and it was a shame when time was finally called. Nevertheless we departed with good grace and headed off back towards the centre of town in search of some more solid nourishment.

As I mentioned earlier, that particular November 5th was a fine late autumn day, without a cloud in the sky and not a breath of wind either. Such days however invariably lead to cold and frosty nights, and as we left the Black Horse the air had a distinct chill to it, giving one the feeling that it would not be long before temperatures started to drop very rapidly. As we approached the brow of the steep School Hill that leads down to the River Ouse, we were rewarded by the sight of Harvey’s Brewery set against the backdrop of the South Downs. Steam from the brewery was rising vertically into the still cold air, and as we descended the hill the sun was already starting to sink in the sky, before finally disappearing behind the hills away to our left. You could feel it getting colder and see the mist beginning to rise from the river as we approached the Cliffe area of Lewes, and we were all glad that we had come warmly dressed and well wrapped up against the cold.

We found a restaurant at the far end of Cliffe High Street, passing Harvey’s Brewery on our way down and noticing, with some amusement, the banner strung across the street proclaiming "No Popery Here!"

They take Bonfire night very seriously in this part of Lewes, and of the five Bonfire Societies Cliffe is probably the most anti-papal of them all. The reason for the anti-Catholic feeling pre-dates Guy Fawkes and his fellow conspirators by over a century. It arises from the time when, during the reign of Queen Mary, 17 Protestant martyrs were burnt at the stake in Lewes for their faith. This hatred for Rome and its church later found a new refuge following the discovery of the gunpowder plot, and numerous "Bonfire Societies" can now be found in Lewes, as well as many of the surrounding villages. The anti-papal theme is repeated in the "Bonfire Prayers" - the last verse of which reads:

"A penny loaf to feed old Pope,
A farthing o' cheese to choke him,
A pint of beer to rinse it down,
A faggot of sticks to burn him!
Burn him in a tub of tar,
Burn him like a blazing star,
Burn his body from his head,
Then we'll say old Pope is dead!
Hip, hip hoo-r-r-ray."

The bonfire societies meet throughout the year, holding various fund-raising activities to ensure both a spectacular display of fireworks on the night and also to provide money towards the costs of the elaborate costumes their members wear as part of the celebrations. Bonfire Night in Lewes itself is always celebrated on the 5th of November, except when the 5th occurs on a Sunday. When that happens, the festivities are held on the preceding Saturday instead. By tradition, Bonfire Night celebrations in the surrounding villages take place either side of November 5th, so as not to detract from the main event in Lewes, and also to allow members of other societies to visit, or take part in the town's celebrations. Bonfire night in the villages is usually celebrated on a Saturday, unless, of course it happens to fall on the 5th November.

I personally find it very re-assuring in these changing times that such time-honoured traditions not only still take place, but if anything are growing in their popularity and appeal. Long may this continue!

That particular November 5th, my companions and I finished our meal and then wandered back into town. We decided that by purchasing some fireworks we would be entering into the spirit of things, and consequently bought several boxes of bangers each, for later on. We had noticed that many shop windows had already been boarded up, and that workmen were busy attending to others. We later learnt that this was a public safety measure rather than a fear that rioting would break out. More to our dismay though was the discovery that most of the towns' pubs would either be shut, or “open to regulars only”.

The fear of public disorder goes back to the last century, when events often did get out of hand. Pitched battles were fought in the streets, on several occasions, between the police and some of the more high-spirited "bonfire boys". According to contemporary sources, "great rioting" occurred in 1838, whilst in 1847 "170 of the principal tradesmen and other respectable inhabitants" were summoned to be sworn in as special constables. On their way to a meeting on the night of November 4th they were attacked by Bonfire Boys in the High Street. The following night, the riot act was read by Lord Chichester from the steps of County Hall. In those days, bonfires were actually lit in the town’s streets, so one can imagine the chaos as well as the threat to life, limb and property in general. In these more "enlightened times" the bonfires and firework displays are properly organised, and take place in open fields away from the town centre.

To kill some time, we wandered down to the river and amused ourselves by letting off several of our bangers in a deserted car park. Unfortunately our activities attracted the attention of the local constabulary, and we were told by a couple of police officers, in no uncertain terms, that it was an offence to discharge fireworks in a public place. Furthermore, unless we wished to spend bonfire night in the cells, we were to refrain from further such activities!

Feeling suitably chastened, we adjourned to a nearby cafe, where over a warming and very welcome cup of coffee we waited for the festivities to begin. One tradition, that has survived to this day, is that of hurling a blazing tar barrel into the River Ouse. In former times, lighted tar barrels were rolled along the High Street and down School Hill, but this practice has now been outlawed by the authorities. Instead, the lighted barrels are now pulled along on sturdy metal carts.

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After witnessing the blazing tar barrel being quenched by the waters of the Ouse, we made our way up the hill to the War Memorial, with the aim of getting a good vantage point. It is to this point that processions from each of the town's Bonfire Societies congregate, before marching off to their own individual events. According to the 1992 programme for Cliffe Bonfire Society, the following activities were scheduled to take place that year:

"At the Fire the Archbishop of Cliffe will deliver his annual address, specially composed for the occasion, during which high-flying fireworks will soar above the heads of the clergy. At around half-past nine o'clock effigies of Guy Fawkes and Pope Paul V will be ceremoniously destroyed by means of fireworks. Also giant heads of personages deemed by the Society to be this year's "Enemies of Bonfire" will be similarly exploded by a Mammoth Aerial Firework Display, The famous Cliffe Bonfire Society tableau of mammoth proportions, built with an expertise mastered only by the firework experts of the Cliffe, will be detonated in an Extravagant Pyrotechnical Finale."

Exciting stuff! The programme also prints a warning to the authorities that "Bonfire is a force to be reckoned with", and that the societies will not tolerate attempts by the police and other authorities to "dilute the event into a tame carnival", this action coming under the guise of "public safety". It is hardly surprising then that past "Enemies of Bonfire" have included the Chief Constable of Sussex and prominent local politicians.

Prior to the start of the processions, we somehow found ourselves in the bar of the White Hart, an ancient old inn directly opposite the law courts. I remember convincing the barman that we were staying the night and thus qualified as “residents”, otherwise we would not have been served. It was a worthwhile deception though, as the Harvey’s Old was very welcoming on such a cold winter's night. Despite the good condition of the beer, we only stayed for the one as we did not want to miss the celebrations that would shortly be taking place outside.

Finding a suitable place to stand, opposite the war memorial and wrapped warmly against the cold, we watched procession after procession arriving to pay their respects to the town's war dead. The fact that November 5th is so close to Armistice Day means that the dead of two world wars are also commemorated, as well as the Protestant Martyrs of the 16th Century.

After the two minute silence and the Last Post, the various bonfire societies marched off to hold their own respective events. Watching them march off only served to remind us of how cold we were, so we nipped into the nearby County Hotel where the Gales HSB was very welcome indeed, as was the bar's central heating. We were however, advised against taking our drinks outside by a friendly member of the hotel staff. The police apparently take a dim view of people carrying beer glasses at the event, (full or otherwise), so given our previous brush with the law we decided to stay put and  enjoy the warmth of the hotel bar instead.

Shortly after it was time to leave. Rail journeys between Lewes and Tonbridge involve quite a roundabout route, following the truncation  of the direct line at Uckfield in 1969. This coupled with the closure in 1985 of the line between Tunbridge Wells and Eridge means that there is no longer a direct route between the two towns. The upshot of all this was that we had to catch the half eight train from Lewes in order to guarantee making our connection for Tonbridge at Redhill.

The station was absolutely heaving when we arrived; British Rail having lain on additional trains in order to cope with the night's huge influx of visitors. I don't remember much about the journey home, but I do remember having a king-sized hangover the next day.

This year (2016), there were no trains running into Lewes, due to the long running dispute between Train Operator, Southern and members of the RMT Union protesting over the changing role of guards on the train. This would undoubtedly have had an adverse effect on numbers attending the famous celebrations, but whether this was a good thing as far as the Bonfire Societies were concerned, remains to be seen.

If you do get the chance to attend next year’s Bonfire Celebrations, I can strongly recommend it. Assuming the rail dispute is settled, then travelling by train is by far and away the best option. If you do choose to drive, you will have to leave your car some distance away from the town centre, as the streets are closed to traffic. You will then have to walk into Lewes.

A better bet is to book a hotel or B&B room for the night. That way you can stay until the end, and also combine your stay with a look around this most attractive East Sussex town.

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Fat Cat - Norwich

A flying visit to Norwich at the weekend saw my son Matt and I making an equally flying visit to one of the city’s most iconic and best known pubs. I am talking, of course, about the legendary Fat Cat. We were staying in Norwich for the evening prior to visiting my father the following day. We also planned to call in at the Beers of Europe warehouse, which is just south of Kings Lynn, on the way home (more about that another time).

Our hotel was to the west of Norwich city centre, but a spot of prior research showed there are frequent buses running into the city; a factor which made a visit the Fat Cat perfectly feasible without having to drive there.

I had been to the Fat Cat on one previous occasion. That was three and a half years ago, when I was in Norwich for the 2013 CAMRA AGM. On that visit the pub was absolutely heaving; hardly surprising really given the thousand or so CAMRA activists present in the city. I didn’t stay long; not because I didn’t like the crowds, but because I had arranged to meet up there with a number of friends from Maidstone CAMRA as a prelude to going for a curry.

What immediately struck me about the Fat Cat was the maze-like interior of the pub, with a several different rooms and numerous alcoves where one could sit with a small group of friends, or just on one’s own, assuming you chose a quiet time to visit that is!

The beer range too is nothing short of amazing, with around 12 ales on hand-pumps, plus nearly double that number on gravity, straight from casks kept in a room behind the bar. The pub has its own brewery - the Fat Cat Tap, which forms part of the chain of three “Fat Cat” pubs, and there are always several Fat Cat beers on sale.

Now before you all start screaming “beer-exhibition pub” at me, let me say the volume of trade at the Cat is sufficient to ensure a good turnover of beers. Prices too are very keen, averaging around £3.40 - £3.60 a pint, with a few priced at £3.20. The pub’s own Fat Cat Bitter 3.8% retails at just £2.70! Cider lovers are also well catered for, with up to 20 traditional ciders available on draught (mainly from poly-kegs or poly-pins), plus getting on for 15 in bottled form.

As I mentioned above, Saturday’s visit was a rather fleeting one. Apart from pre-prepared rolls, and these often run out by the evening, the Fat Cat doesn’t do food. Now food figures quite highly on the “must have” list of twenty-something males, and sixty-something males are also quite partial to a bit of nourishment, particularly when a night on the beer is contemplated. So the dilemma was beer first and food later, or the other way round? 

Walking down to the bus stop we noticed a large, modern steakhouse-cum-carvery, virtually opposite our hotel. That made our minds up; we would take the bus to the Fat Cat first, and then grab something to eat when we got back. It was just a five minute walk to the bus stop, and then the same time interval before a bus arrived. I knew roughly where we needed to alight, so after purchasing a couple of return tickets, we sat down and enjoyed the ride into town.

After getting off the bus, we found our way to the Fat Cat without any trouble – I am pretty good when it comes to remembering my way to a pub, especially if it is one worthy of re-visiting! Fortunately, although busy, the pub was nowhere near as crowded as it had been three and a half years ago, and after ordering our drinks, we managed to find a spare table at the far end of the pub.

To start with I had an excellent pint of Lacon’s Legacy; a beer which has become a firm favourite of mine on visits to East Anglia. Later on I switched to Green Jack Mahseer IPA, which at 5.8%, represents the other end of the strength scale. Matt, being a committed lager drinker, went for the Bitburger, although he could also have had Budvar or Menabrea. The latter is a new one on me, but it is produced by a family-owned brewery in the town of Biella, in the foothills of the Italian Alps.

We shared our tucked away corner of the pub with three other groups of customers, and the mix of different age-groups and persona is another plus point. What I particularly like is the extensive collection of advertising breweriana; much of which relates to old Norwich and East Anglian brewers. For example, there is memorabilia from the likes of Bullards, Morgans, Steward & Patteson, all of whom once brewed in Norwich. Closer to home, there was an old Fremlins elephant; the proud symbol of a company who, until their takeover by Whitbread, were by far Kent’s premier brewers. It was Whitbread, of course, who also did for the original Lacon’s company, who brewed in Great Yarmouth, so it is especially good to see old name resurrected in the form of today’s modern successor.

It would have been nice to have stayed for a third pint, but the lad was getting hungry, so reluctantly (on my part), we made our way back to the bus stop. For some reason we had a half-hour wait; doubly annoying as we could have stayed in the warmth of the pub and enjoyed another pint.

The steak-house was certainly a disappointment beer-wise, with a flat, tired pint of Adnam’s Southwold which, whilst not quite bad enough to take back, was definitely passed its best. The food options were also rather limited as the restaurant had been rather busy earlier, but my fish-pie was tasty enough; as was Matt’s burger.

I’m pleased we managed to fit in a return visit to the Fat Cat. As a pub, I would say it does everything right. With an amazing range of mainly local beers, traditional ciders plus some higher quality continental lagers, it is a genuine wet-led pub which attracts a wide and varied selection of customers, drawn from all walks of life. There is no annoying piped muzak, or other electronic noise to distract from conversation. It is definitely the type of pub I would love to have as my local, and if I lived nearby, you would find me in there most nights!

Footnote:  apologies for the low quality photos, which were taken using my phone, rather than my camera.

This is how you do it!

The news that major brewers Marston's have carried out a re-branding of their bottled beer portfolio, sent some commentators on the brewing industry into meltdown. It’s easy to mock some of the reasons behind Marston’s decision, and yes it does look like a clumsy attempt to mimic the “craft beer” sector, with the use of a single bold colour, on an otherwise black and white background, but you can’t really blame a company for wanting to move with the times.

Or can you? Today’s Marston’s bears little resemblance to the Burton-based, regional brewer of yesteryear, as that company was swallowed up by Wolverhampton & Dudley Breweries; another regional brewer, based in the West Midlands. It is only the fact that the name Marston’s had a much more attractive ring to it, and a lot more pedigree behind it, that the new parent company adopted it as the name for the whole group.

The fact that Marston’s do have an impressive pedigree, should have been something well worth capitalising on, and indeed Marston’s looked to be going down that road just a year ago, with the stylish makeover of the premium brand – the appropriately-named Pedigree. That has now been thrown out the window and describing this classic Burton pale ale as an “amber ale” is really rather silly; as is the re-naming of their excellent Oyster Stout, as "Pearl Jet!"

The group’s marketing manager Lee Williams said, “In this day and age, in terms of what is happening in the market, our branding has not been good enough. We need to recapture the consumer.” He then went on to say, “The market is fast-moving and we’ve updated the brands for current drinkers and new and younger ones.”

Well that’s enough said about Marston’s, as the market will decide whether this was a bold and innovative move on behalf of the company, or a rather foolish and clumsy attempt at trying to look trendy, but if you’ve got a bit of heritage behind you, then why not flaunt it? Sussex brewers, Harvey’s of Lewes, have done just that with their own, much more modest and yet far more effective re-branding which took place back in the summer; an exercise which first saw the light of day at CAMRA’s Great British Beer Festival.

I must admit at being a little taken aback, when I first saw the new look, boldly acting as the backdrop and sides to the Harvey’s trade stand at GBBF, but the new branding quickly grew on me in way I can’t envisage the new Marston’s designs ever doing. Harvey’s new look is stylish and modern looking, but it still draws on the brewery’s impressive heritage. The clever use of a gold stencil-like effect against a striking, single colour back ground catches the eye and draws attention to the product name and description underneath.

Harvey’s worked closely with leading design house, WPA Pinfold in order to create their new look, and what they came up with really certainly seems to work. The idea was to reach out to a fresh generation of drinkers, by producing a new identity with a closely associated group of illustrations. According to WPA, the idea was “To reposition the brewery for future generations: ensuring a legacy for the family business while future proofing the brand.”

Alright, that’s a little too much marketing speak for my liking, but I think most people would agree the results speak for themselves. I’ve no idea of the cost of this re-brand, but I wouldn’t mind betting Harvey’s paid a lot less than what Marston’s have.

Klosterbräu Mallersdorf Vollbier Hell 5.0%

I finally got round to opening one of the beers I brought back with me from my visit to Klosterbräuerei Mallersdorf.  I picked up a couple of bottles of this “Holy Beer” when I made a personal visit to the abbey, back in September. I sampled the beer, on draught, in the small beer garden of the pub opposite the abbey entrance, but I wanted to compare the bottled version to the draught. I noticed that the old-style nicks on the bottom of the label were showing a Best before Date of November 2016, so I thought it prudent to open one.

The beer was packaged in a heavy old-fashioned swing-top bottle, made out of thick, dark-brown glass. I would imagine these bottles are very much “multi-trip”, appropriately designed to withstand the rigours of many re-fills and subsequent washings. A paper “security” closure across the metal “flip top” mechanism has a photo of the smiling Brewster at Kloster Mallersdorf, the legendary Sister Doris. She is shown, dressed in her nun’s robes, holding a foaming glass of the beer she brews for the abbey’s 500 or so inhabitants. I think I’d be smiling too if I had her job!

 

The full name of this 5.0% beer is Klosterbräu Mallersdorf Vollbier Hell. It’s ironic that a beer brewed by nuns should be called “Hell”, but as many of us know Hell means light or pale in German. Like the draught I enjoyed on that hot, late-September day, the bottled version had a slight haze. This was despite me carefully storing the bottles in an upright position for several weeks, and then pouring the beer carefully. It was very pale in colour, with little discernable aroma, and no head when poured. It was clean-tasting and refreshing, although I detected a slight lactic sourness lurking in the background.

This may be because the beer was approaching the end of its shelf-life (see above). I also very much doubt that it was pasteurised. Despite the hint of sourness, the beer was good to drink, and brought back pleasant memories of my excursion into the Bavarian countryside and of the simple pleasures of enjoying good beer in rustic surroundings.

 If I lived within easy travelling distance of the abbey, I would certainly be making regular trips to pick up a crate or two of this simple, country beer. I imagine the Holy Sisters also enjoy a glass of this refreshing beer after their labours, and look forward to the stronger versions produced for Christmas and Lent.

Burton Bridge Brewery - For Sale

There sometimes isn’t much in the CAMRA monthly newspaper “What’s Brewing”, which catches my interest; news of a battle to save a pub somewhere far away, an award for a long-serving licensee or yet another article about cider. This month’s edition however, contained a lengthy article by Roger Protz, about one of the first of Britain’s new wave of breweries.

Burton Bridge Brewery was founded in 1982, by two former Ind Coope employees; Bruce Wilkinson and Geoff Mumford. Disillusioned with what was happening in the world of big brewing, and seeing the writing on the wall for the Ind Coope Brewery at Romford, where they both worked, the pair decided to jump ship and start brewing themselves. They set up production behind a closed pub, called the Fox & Goose, in Burton-on-Trent. The pub was adjacent to a 17^th Century Bridge into the town, over the River Trent, and had room behind it for a brewery.

Given the location of the new brewery, the name Burton Bridge was an obvious choice of name for both brewery and pub, and after installing and commissioning a 15 barrel plant, cobbled together from various sources, Burton Bridge Brewery was up and running. Bruce and Geoff worked like Trojans to get the new brewery off the ground, as not only did they have the brewing to contend with, there was also the pub to run and deliveries to be made. 

Their first beer was a classic Burton bitter, called Bridge Bitter 4.2% ABV.  Over the years many other beers were added, including XL Bitter, Top Dog Stout, Festival Ale and Stairway to Heaven. A bottle-conditioned IPA, called Empire Pale Ale, which weighed in at a hefty 7.5% was a further addition to their portfolio. The beer is aged in the brewery for a six month period, in order to replicate the maturation this style of beer would have undone, back in the 19^th Century, on its journey to India.

The couple’s hard work paid off, and today Bridge Bitter is the second biggest selling cask ale in Burton.A further achievement was bringing back Draught Burton Ale back to the town where it was first brewed, nearly 40 years ago, when they both worked for the brand’s original; owner, Ind Coope. As well as a well-respected range of beers, Burton Bridge now owns four other pubs within Burton, beside the Bridge Inn. All are good, solid traditional pubs, which provide a good means of showcasing the company’s beers.

Although all these achievements are worthy of mention, the  main point of the “What’s Brewing” article was to highlight the news that  after  35 years graft, Bruce and Geoff are calling it a day, and have placed the brewery and its pubs on the market. At 67 and 74 years of age respectively, the pair are looking to retire, but rather than just take the first offer which comes along, they are determined to sell to someone who share the same ideals, and will take good care of the brewery workers, pub tenants and bar staff. They add that they feel responsible for the people they employ, and the sale will be influenced by what happens to them.

So why have I decided to feature this story, when there must be other similar breweries founded around the same time whose owners might also be contemplating retirement? The simple answer is I have a soft spot for Burton Bridge, having visited the Bridge Inn on a couple of occasions in the past, and enjoyed the beers which are brewed behind the pub. I also, on occasion, sold Burton Bridge beers when my wife and I had our off-licence.

My first visit to the Burton Bridge Inn took place in March 1987. The visit came about after a friend had noticed a trip being advertised a local coach company. It was billed as “The Burton Brewer", and consisted of a visit to the Bass Museum followed by a trip around the Bass Brewery. A number of fellow drinking buddies, including me, were interested, particularly as the trip offered the opportunity to spend some time in Britain’s brewing capital. We duly booked our places and on the allotted day boarded the coach to Burton.

After a somewhat tedious journey up the motorway, we arrived in Burton just after midday. Our driver told us to assemble at the gates to the Bass Brewery at one o'clock, so with some time to spare we decided to try some of the town’s delights. We had read about the recently formed Burton Bridge Brewery, so headed straight for the Burton Bridge Inn; the brewery tap. The pub was excellent and so was the beer, and we ended up trying the Bridge Bitter and also the rather tasty Burton Porter. However, by the time we arrived back at the Bass Brewery, we learned that not only had we missed our trip round the museum, but the tour round the brewery was about to commence. It seems that the coach driver had got his times muddled up, which was a great shame as I would really have liked to have had a proper look round the museum.

Seeing that we were late, our tour guide enquired as to where we had been, with a look of obvious annoyance on her face. One of my three companions informed her that “We had been sampling some proper beer at the Burton Bridge Inn.". “Oh”, replied our guide, "it's strange but lots of people seem to go there". “Perhaps if Bass brewed some decent beer these days, people wouldn't have to” murmured another of my friends. Our guide either did not hear, or perhaps chose to ignore that somewhat pointed but rather poignant comment, and without further ado we embarked on our tour of the brewery.

The second visit took place in November 1998, when I booked myself an Apex return to Burton-on-Trent, with the specific aim of visiting the Bass Museum. I took the Midline Mainline service from St Pancras to Derby, and then transferred to a local Cross-Country service to Burton I arrived in the town shortly after 11am, and made my way to the first stop on my planned itinerary. This was not the museum, but the Burton Bridge Inn; the same pub my companions and I had visited 11 years previously.

I was pleased to discover that little had changed in the intervening years, and that the pub was as delightfully unspoilt as ever. It was full though, almost to overflowing, with both local drinkers, and customers drawn from further afield. The latter group included a party of visitors from Germany, who were obviously appreciating the pub’s excellent ales. I managed to find a bit of elbow room at the bar, and tried a few of the beers myself; including Burton Porter, Top Dog Stout plus the tongue-in-cheek Old Expensive. These, plus a substantial bacon-roll more than satisfied the inner-man, so before yet more lunchtime drinkers arrived, I made my way towards the Bass Museum.

Reading Roger Protz’s article rekindled my memories of these two visits. I therefore wish Bruce Wilkinson and Geoff Mumford every success in finding a sympathetic for their business, and once this aim has been achieved I wish them a long and happy retirement. When I next find myself in that part of the country, I will make sure I call in at the Burton Bridge Inn, and sample a glass or two of the brewery’s finest.

“Bringing It All Back Home”

“Bringing It All Back Home”, is not just the title of the new Nobel Literature Laureate’s 5^th studio album; a release which contains, amongst others, classics such as Mr Tambourine Man, Maggie’s Farm, Subterranean Homesick Blues and It’s All Over Now, Baby-Blue, but also the practice of bringing a few goodies back home with you, when you’ve been away somewhere.

Visiting new places, or reacquainting yourself with a few familiar ones, usually provides the opportunity to sample and enjoy a few local ales or beers. For me, this is an important part of any trip away; whether it is at home or abroad, although I do find now that regional differences here in the UK, so far as local breweries are concerned, are nowhere as distinct as they were when I started drinking over 40 years ago.

Wherever possible I like to bring a few bottles of the local brew back home with me, to either remind me of a good holiday, or as an opportunity to try something new. This is easy, here in the UK, especially when travelling by car; but even if  you are taking advantage of cheap rail deals, providing you have a decent-size rucksack or a suitable wheeled suitcase, then bringing a reasonable quantity of bottles back with you should not present too much of a problem

Boarding the Eurostar to Brussels

Take your car abroad and the same applies; with added advantage of cheaper beer prices prevalent in much of mainland Europe. You can even travel by train (Eurostar), and enjoy the same advantages. However, if air travel is your chosen method of transport, you come up against a number of hurdles. If you choose to travel with hand-baggage only, then I’m afraid you are stuffed due to strict limitations governing carrying liquids in your bag. The smallest size beer bottle normally available is 250 ml, two and a half times larger than the permitted100 ml; and let’s face it, what beer lover would bother with such small volumes anyway?

Despite these limitations, travelling with just cabin baggage has several advantages, particularly if you are travelling with a budget airline. There are no baggage fees to pay, no bags to check in and collect, meaning you go straight to security before boarding the plane, whilst at the other end, you pass straight through customs and immigration and continue on to your destination. This is my preferred method, when travelling alone and taking a short break, even if it means foregoing beer to bring home. However, if I am going away for periods in excess of five days, or my wife is travelling with me, then I will pay the extra and go for the checked-in hold-baggage option.

How not to pack your case

It’s still not all plain-sailing though, as there are two other factors to be aware of. The first is weight, and the second is how to safely pack your precious cargo without any of the bottles breaking in transit, soaking and potentially ruining the contents of your suitcase. Dealing with weight first; all airlines impose weight restrictions on individual items of baggage. Excess weight costs money in terms of extra fuel, but there are also manual handling issues to take into account. Spare a thought for the poor baggage handler who has to climb inside the hold of the aircraft and stow your over-loaded bag, whilst trying to avoid giving himself a hernia in the process.

As a general rule, the cheaper the airline, the less weight you are allowed to bring; unless you are willing to pay the not insignificant excess baggage charge. You need to box clever here, and work out exactly how many bottles your suitcase can accommodate (always assuming there’s sufficient space), without exceeding the limit. When checking in for the outward flight, I always make a mental note of the weight showing on the display, when I place my bag on the belt. I then know within a kilo or so how much weight I’ve got to play with. You then need to know the weight of any bottles you are planning to bring back with you. With the aid of Google you discover that an empty 500ml bottle weighs in at around 300g, whilst a 330ml bottle comes in at around 200g. You then need to add the weight of the contents, which is easy, as 500ml weighs 500g and 330 ml equates to 330g. (Weights are based on the density of water, which is 1.00 g/ml; but as beer is approx 95% water, and alcohol is actually lighter than water, you won’t go far wrong if you use this conversion).

Hard-shell case for better protection

So a 500ml bottle of beer has a gross weight of around 800g (0.800 Kg) and a 330 ml bottle comes out at 530g (0.530 Kg). If your baggage limit is 20 Kg (Easy Jet/Ryanair), and you have 9 kilos to play with, you can bring back 11 x 500 ml bottles or 17 x 330 ml bottles. A word of warning though; don’t take these figures as gospel as beer bottles can and do vary in weight considerably, depending on the thickness of the glass. Modern practice is to make them as light as possible, whilst still providing sufficient protection and resilience for the contents. Older style bottles, such as the heavy swing-top bottles used for the Kloster Mallersdorf beer I am drinking at the moment, are noticeably thicker, and therefore significantly heavier. Always be mindful therefore, of local variations, from country to country and even between regions within a country, and ere on the side of caution.

Having determined the number of bottles you can bring back, you then have the task of packing them carefully, so that they don’t break in transit.  The really important points here are that bottles should be as immobilised as far as possible AND should not touch the sides of the case, or another bottle. Bubble-wrap is ideal for this purpose, but I often simply slide a couple of socks over each bottle and then partially wrap each one with a T-shirt, or similar item of clothing. Basically use whatever it takes to keep each bottle separate from its neighbour and away from the sides of the case.

A selection of goodies from a previous trip to Bavaria

By following these simple rules, and by taking a bit of care with my packing, I’ve successfully brought back dozens of bottles, without any breakages or leakage. Occasionally I’ve been slightly over the weight limit, but a sweet smile and an “Oh, so sorry” apology, normally means I get away with these slight transgressions. Downstairs in the cupboard I’ve got 14 bottles I brought back from August’s trip to the Netherlands along with eight from last month’s visit to Regensburg. So if you are prepared to apply a little extra time and effort, then you too can enjoy a few liquid memories from wherever you have been recently.
 

There is another way of acquiring exotic beers, and that is to order from one of the growing number of on-line beer agencies. It will cost you a bit more, as there are delivery charges to pay, and these can be quite steep. There is also the risk of breakages; although most agencies, these days, use reputable carriers to mitigate against this. Some beer agencies also welcome callers, and this is what I will be doing, next weekend when I make the journey to Norfolk, to visit my father. Beers of Europe have one of the largest selections of both British and foreign beers in the UK, at their warehouse, just outside Kings Lynn, and it will be well worth making a slight detour in order to pick up a few goodies for Christmas.

Cans can travel by air

One final point; I’ve been told that cans also travel without rupture in aircraft holds. Some of you may know I work for a company which is Japanese owned. We have regular visitors from Japan, and also have researchers seconded to us for lengthier periods of time. I count one of these scientists as a friend as well as a colleague, and it was he who told me about transporting cans of beer across continents.

Cans are very popular in Japan, for ecological reasons, so my colleague has been bringing some with him and taking others back with him on trips between Japan and the UK. I haven’t tried this yet, but my friend hasn’t experienced any problems. I would add here though, that cans are far more susceptible to crushing than glass bottles, so in this instance a hard-shell suitcase is essential.

The "Portergate" Scandal

Larkin’s Porter is definitely one of my all time favourite winter beers. I say “winter” because this rich, luscious 5.2% dark beer only makes its appearance during the period from November to February. I would go so far as to say that the beer is one of the few things I actually look forward to during winter, and the sight of a Larkin’s Porter pump-clip on the bar turns an average pub into a definite destination one for me.

I called into the Greyhound at Charcott this lunchtime (Friday); something which is becoming a habit, but as I desire to support this threatened pub as much as I can, it can only be a good one! Larkin’s Traditional and Green Hop Best were the two beers on, but the third pump had its clip turned round. Without any prompting on my part, the landlord announced that Larkin’s Porter was the beer which would be available on this pump, and he was mindful of putting it on sale that evening.

Disappointed that I would have to wait another week in order to sample this excellent beer, I expressed my surprise that the Porter was available so early in the season. I was referring to the fact that for the last 30 years or so, Larkin’s brewer and owner - Bob Dockerty, has always waited until Bonfire Night before releasing the beer. “Ah,” said the landlord, “You obviously haven’t heard about the Portergate scandal.” Slightly amused, I confessed I hadn’t, but it appears that a well-known local pub, which I won’t name - but it has won several CAMRA awards (both local and regional), broke with tradition by placing the beer on sale a fortnight early.

This left several other regular Porter outlets slightly miffed; so much so that they too decided to break Bob’s unwritten rule by putting the beer on sale as well. This was why the landlord at the Greyhound, which is currently leased by Larkin’s, was also planning to join them.

You could, of course, argue that placing a seasonal beer on sale a couple of weeks early doesn’t really matter; and in the general scheme of things it certainly doesn’t, but embargoing Larkin’s Porter until after November 5^th, was something of a tradition locally, and it seems a shame to have broken it. With the exceptionally mild weather at present, it also seems a little absurd, as today I sat outside the pub, without a coat and with my shirtsleeves rolled up, soaking up the glorious warmth of the late October sun and my pint of Larkin’s Green Hop Best in equal measure.

There will be time enough when a warming pint of Larkin’s Porter will be just what’s needed, after a chilly walk up from work to the pub or, on a cold and frosty night, huddled in front of the fire this beer will taste all the better and will certainly be much more appreciated. There are reasons for these traditions, you know, as even if they only date back 30 years, you know full well they are mimicking the perfectly sound practices of our forefathers.