An early spring walk to the Plough, at Powder Mills

We've had a few bright and sunny days recently, a welcome change from the wind, rain, and grey skies. With Mrs. PBT's busy with VAT returns, Friday seemed perfect to go outside in search of a country pub. After finishing my chores, I put on my hiking boots for the first time in months and headed down into Tonbridge. I was making for the Plough, at Leigh, a classic country inn that dates back to the 16^th century. It’s a pub I have known well over the years, and one that is quite easy to reach on foot, from my house in Tonbridge.  

The route goes across the sports ground, under the railway, over a footbridge, and then through to an area known as the Powder Mills. This settlement is close to the neighbouring village of Leigh and was once home to a number of gunpowder mills. The nearby streams provided power for the water mills, used to grind the charcoal, sulphur and saltpetre components that when mixed and finely ground together, make up gunpowder. The isolated position of this enterprise ensured that should the worst happen collateral damage to nearby houses and farm buildings would be minimal.

Pharmaceutical giant, GSK (Glaxo-Smith-Kline) once operated a research plant near Powder Mills, but it has since closed, leaving no trace. Despite this, the area is still known as Powder Mills. The closure of local industries, including multinationals, is unfortunately quite common, especially given the shenanigans of big business, and the increasing value of land, especially here in the south east. It will come as no surprise then to learn that the former GSK site is now occupied by housing. This does have the benefit of an improved footpath, leading to the lane where the Plough is situated, but is of little comfort to former GSK employees. I have known several of these over the years, and a recently appointed new member of our management team, worked at the site.  

I had been planning to walk to the Plough for some time and had considered doing it earlier in the year, but the short daylight hours deterred me. Walking back in the dark wouldn't have been wise. Now, with sunset around 6pm, there was plenty of time for a walk in the sunshine. Most of the path is tarmac or compressed rock chippings, except for one particularly muddy section that ruined the appearance of my nice clean boots. It was an enjoyable walk that was mostly flat, except for a slight hill near the Powder Mills. It was just before there that I noticed some sheep, but no lambs yet. However, with many ewes looking quite “bulky”, I’m sure that lambing must be imminent.

It was a lovely day for a walk, with just the bird song and the occasional buzz of aircraft, way over head, to disturb the rural tranquillity. Actually, the birds chirping away added to the occasion and the unmistakable sound of a woodpecker at work, was a sure sign that spring is on its way. Another sign was the patch of snowdrops, as I approached the pub. Even better were the daffodils blooming under the sign near the car park entrance. Upon arriving at the pub's main entrance, I did a quick look around before heading to the bar. Nothing seemed to have changed from previous visits, which is always a good sign.

There were two cask ales available, one each from Tonbridge Brewery (Old Chestnut) and Pig & Porter (Got The Face On). Pig & Porter seem to offer a different beer every week, but according to Untappd, I had drank this one before. It might be heresy for me to say so, but Tonbridge beers often feel a bit dull to me, although there are one or two exceptions. I ordered a pint of Pig & Porter, and the barman suggested I sit at the large, empty table, constructed from ancient, polished wooden planks, since they weren't expecting any large parties that day. I inquired if there were any weddings planned, as the Plough often hosts receptions in the adjacent barn. He said not this week, but it wouldn’t be long before the wedding “season” kicks off in earnest.  The beer was a bit too citrusy for my taste but after my walk, was still pleasantly refreshing.

The pub itself has been extended gradually, over the centuries, but in a timeless and seamless manner, meaning the sprawling interior is divided into several interconnected areas, that integrate well with one another. The main bar is dominated by a doubled-sided open fire, situated close to the doorway that leads down to the garden, and also the Great Barn. As might be expected in a pub of such antiquity, there are plenty of ancient, low, sturdy beams, blackened by centuries of age. The clientele that day seemed mainly elderly diners, although there were a few locals and their dogs who had popped in for a quick one. The stone-flagged floors mean that muddy paws, as well as mud-encrusted hiking boots are not a problem.

I didn’t fancy another pint, as neither of the two beers impressed me, so I set off on the walk back to Tonbridge, with the intention of diverting onto the path leading to Haysden Country Park. From there I could cut through the late 19^th and early 20^th Century housing developments that have grown up on either side of the railway. It had been some time since I’d last walked that way, but I followed my nose and eventually ended up at the Nelson Arms, where I knew I’d find a beer more to my taste.

I arrived at the pub just after 3.30pm, in the midst of that afternoon lull that many pubs seem to experience. There were nine cask beers on offer, plus a similar number of craft keg ales. I fancied something low in strength, but high in flavour, and Kernel Mild fitted the bill nicely, coming in at 3.4%. I hadn’t been in the Nelson long, when Jon, from Hadlow came in. I hadn’t seen him for a long time, so he came over and joined me for a chat. Coincidentally, Jon used to work at the GSK Powder Mills site but now works for a company that manufactures gas detection equipment.

Even more of a coincidence was the fact I was looking for a specialist company in relation to our pressurised gas systems at work. It was talking shop on a grand scale, but Jon promised to forward some details over to me, providing proof, if it was needed, that it’s who you now, rather than not what you know, that can make all the difference in life. We both left it at just the one pint each. Jon was keen to get over to Fuggles, as they were still running their “Dark Life” event, although this February promotion was now starting to run down. The idea behind Dark Life was a month-long celebration of dark and delicious beers. Whilst I was tempted, I knew that I t wouldn’t just stay for one so, as the News of the World used to say, I made my excuses and left.