Just back from Hamburg

Early yesterday afternoon, the Bailey family returned from a short but relaxing four-day cruise across the North Sea to the port of Hamburg and back. This trip marked not only a welcome return to Germany’s second largest city but also acted as son Matthew's first visit to Hamburg. It was also his first cruise experience, and whilst he has not expressed much verbally, Mrs PBTS and I are confident that he enjoyed the trip as much as we did. Our home for this brief cruise was the lovely Queen Victoria, our favourite ship amongst Cunard's fleet of four Queens. This was our first voyage on the ship since early December 2022, when Victoria transported us across the same stretch of ocean to Amsterdam, for a short pre-Christmas break.

The weather was cold but generally bright, except for the day in Hamburg when it rained intermittently, and sometimes quite heavily. Matthew and I ventured into the city to explore, seeking beer, German fayre, as well as a spot of sightseeing. As mentioned in a previous post, our visit occurred on a Sunday, when nearly all the shops were closed. A more pressing issue was that several bars were also closed, including the one that had caught my interest, whist looking online for houses of refreshment, the previous night. All was not lost though, as in the end, and quite by chance, we stumbled upon one of the best, and one of the most traditional of venues where we enjoyed some of the best hospitality that Hamburg had to offer.

For now, I'll set aside my afternoon in Hamburg to share more about our voyage. My wife provided me with this information, but I could have discovered it myself if I weren't so lazy. Hamburg was Queen Victoria's final port of call on what had been a lengthy journey halfway around the world. The ship travelled across the Atlantic, around several Caribbean islands, before heading southwards towards the tip of South America, taking in Brazil, Argentina and Chile on the way. Victoria then sailed back up the western side of the continent before returning to the Atlantic, via the Panama Canal.

We joined the ship at Southampton, for the final leg of this marathon cruise, which was the four-night cruise to Hamburg. That marathon voyage would require a lot of stamina, as well as a considerable amount of dosh, but set against the chance of seeing some amazing sights and some equally fascinating countries, I’m sure it would have been worth it. On our voyage back from Hamburg the majority of passengers were Brits, but there was still a reasonable compliment of German nationals.

In all this, please spare a thought for the ship’s crew, the people who sail and navigate the vessel through busy and often crowded waterways. The same applies to the whole of the ship’s company, who contribute to the successful running a vessel of that size. Let's not forget either the cooks, the other kitchen staff, the waiters and the entertainment staff. 

Finally, special thanks must go to the stewards who look after the cabins, working tirelessly through long shifts, cleaning up after untidy passengers, making sure everything is in its place, and that the guest rooms are spick and span. These unsung heroes, work lengthy contracts, with little time off, and with virtually no chance either to experience the sights and general ambience of the places the ship visits over the course of the cruise.

Apologies, that there's nothing in the way of beer, and also for withholding, for the time being, details of that beer house we experienced in Hamburg. Truth is, it’s been a rather hectic first day back at work, and I’m feeling the effects of coming back down to earth with a bump. Consequently, I just wanted to get something down on the blog, after a break of nearly a week. More to come, of course, over the next few days, but in the meantime, thank you for your patience.

A significant birthday draws close

Right, it's a week away from work now, my work e-mail has been set to “out of office”, and on the way home last night I filled the car up with petrol. Most of the clothes that I'm taking on this short cruise have been packed, leaving a minimal amount to do on Thursday morning. I intend then to spend a relaxing day, before making the drive down to Southampton mid-morning on Friday. In case you’ve been asleep, the Bailey family are heading off on a short, four-night cruise, across the North Sea, to Hamburg and back. I must admit I am looking forward to the trip, even though I’ve just discovered that Sunday is not the ideal day for visiting Germany’s second largest city.

I say this, because all the stores are closed on the Sabbath, an experience we haven’t come across before, despite having made numerous visits to Germany. Most of these trips have been to Bavaria, in the Catholic South of the country, where Sunday closing does not seem to be strictly enforced. However, in the Protestant North, it appears that the Lord's Day is rigorously observed. Thirteen years ago, the lad and I spent a long weekend in Berlin, where we noticed that shops had limited hours on Sunday, with major stores opening around 1pm and closing by early evening. This seemed a good compromise, perhaps in keeping with Berlin’s capital city status.

Fortunately, most bars and restaurants will be open, so Matthew and I will almost certainly be doing a moderate amount of drinking. This arrangement also suits Mrs PBT’s, who is quite content to remain on the boat, and enjoy a little rest and relaxation. She’s advised us boys though; to refrain from excessive drinking and to ensure we don’t miss the last bus back to the cruise ship. With the weather forecast predicting rain, we may need to find an indoor venue to stay dry, at least on the outside.

I probably mentioned I have a significant birthday coming up in just over a fortnight's time. By significant I mean it’s a birthday with a nought on the end, and in case you haven't guessed it's the biblical three-score years and ten. This brings me on nicely to the topic of retirement. I’m already passed State Retirement age, and am currently claiming my state pension, on top of the pro-rata salary that I receive from my employer. It’s a nice position to be in, financially, and it’s also good from a mental health, point of view, as I feel, and know that I am still making a positive contribution to society, as a whole.

The time may come though, when my body tells me that it’s time to slow down, and take a back seat, but that time hasn’t arrived, yet. The job I’m carrying out at present involves just me, although as company Safety Advisor, it obviously involves the whole company. The main attraction is I have no staff reporting to me, so I can forget about annual leave, days off, sickness, training (although I do carry out specific H&S training for the company, as a whole). I’ve also been heavily involved with our ongoing expansion project, which means dealing with outside contractors, procurement of goods and services, along with a whole host of related tasks. Think how better that is than sitting at home, watching daytime TV, that is irritating at best, and mind-numbingly boring at worst.

Having said that, I haven’t completely taken my eye off the ball when it comes to pensions, although I have advised my employer that I intend to carry on working for a few more years. At least. The additional money will come in handy, I’m sure, and I don’t just mean heading off on another cruise - even though we’ve just booked one for late October! There are also a number of long overdue, home-improvement projects to arrange and finance, not least of which will be the new kitchen that I talked about, in a previous post. We’re going for a full blown, new installation rather than attempting to revamp the current one, as I talked about earlier. OK, these are material things but if they help make easier and more comfortable, then why not, especially as we both grow older.  

I haven’t been completely idle on the pension front though, as I have booked a one-hour consultation with Pension Wise, the organisation which is the UK government's sponsored service that helps people with the various pensions options that are available. The whole multi-million-pound pension is something of a nightmare, so it pays to make an informed choice, and not to jump in, feet first, and with all guns blazing.

That's enough of growing old, morbidity and the like, apart from saying that Mrs PBT’s will also be celebrating reaching the same significant, biblical age as me, come September. Initially, we decided to have a fairly low-key joint celebration, although I am slowly coming round to the idea of perhaps having a party for friends and family. The weather is normally pretty good in September, so a house party that spills out into the garden, might not be such a bad plan, after all. Food for thought?

A few reflections looking back with fondness, at Cologne

A couple of posts ago I mentioned my plan to reflect on some of the more notable establishments in Cologne where one can enjoy quality food, free-flowing beer, engaging conversation and a relaxing atmosphere. That was the plan, but the more I’ve looked into it, the more taxing the task has become. Over the course of eight separate visits to Cologne, I've got to know many of the city’s best drinking houses. I did a count up and can list 12 classic beer houses selling Kölsch in the city, plus a number of “also runs”, and that’s without really trying. It's a start though, especially as I’ve had personal experience of all these establishments, but before describing some of them it’s worth reminding ourselves of what Cologne’s unique beer style is all about.

Kölsch is a survivor from the pre-lager brewing tradition of Northern Germany, but over the years has undergone a good deal of change. The most notable of these is the lightening of its colour to pale yellow, giving it the appearance of a Pilsner. It is perhaps not surprising then to learn that it is brewed mainly from Pilsner malt. Kölsch is top fermented at a temperature of between 13 to 21°C, which is more typical of ale brewing, but after the initial fermentation, it undergoes a period of conditioning, where it is lagered at a much colder temperature.

The end result is a clear beer with a bright, straw-yellow hue, but considering its background, there is little ale character to be found, apart from a little fruitiness. Kölsch tends to have a soft, and well-rounded character and can sometimes be on the sweet side.

Kölsch has to be brewed in the Cologne area before it can call itself such, and this qualification is stipulated by the “Kölsch Convention”, which dates back to the 1980’s. The convention was drawn up 24 breweries, some of which are no longer brewing, in order to protect the style from outside imitations. Additionally, a beer may only be called a Kölsch if it meets the following criteria:

It is brewed in the Cologne metropolitan area:

It is pale in colour
It is top-fermented
It is hop-accented
It is filtered
It is a ‘Vollbier’

Kölsch is usually served in small, plain cylindrical glasses known as Stangen, which typically hold just 20 cl of beer, although some outlets will use 25 cl versions. The reason for the small glasses is Kölsch is a beer designed to be drunk fresh. Leaving a newly poured glass standing for any length of time allows the beer’s condition to dissipate and is not conducive to enjoying it at its best. This ensures that customers have a fresh glass of beer for as long as they wish to continue drinking,

Kölsch waiters, who appear to always be male, carry round a circular tray known as a Kranz. This has inserts designed to accommodate up to a dozen glasses, and they will automatically offer customers a fresh glass of Kölsch, making a pencil mark on a beer mat, for each glass taken. The waiters are known as “Köbes” (a word derived from “Jakobus”) and wear distinctive blue aprons. They have a reputation for being a bit gruff, but this might be unfounded, as most of the ones I have come across have been helpful and often friendly as well.

Since the formation of the “Kölsch Convention”, there has been the inevitable mergers and closures, so typical of the brewing industry the world over. This has led to many Kölsch “brands” now being brewed at one large brewery, known as the Kölner Verbund Brauereien GmbH & Co. This is housed in what was formerly the Küppers Brewery.

So, what about the pubs and bars? Personally, I prefer some of the less well-known establishments away from the well-worn tourist trail. But if you’re a stranger to the city, it’s probably advisable to start with some of the more popular establishments and tourist spots, as they offer a good introduction to drinking in Cologne.

One of the most famous Kӧlsch houses in Cologne, as well as one of the largest, is Früh am Dom. "Dom" is the German word for cathedral, and Früh is very close to the magnificent gothic cathedral that dominates the centre of Cologne. 

 I have made several visits to Früh am Dom, and on each occasion this Cologne institution, with its maze of inter-connected rooms, spread out across several different levels, seems to have grown in size. On my last visit to IDS, our group called in at Früh and found the place absolutely heaving. Fortunately, one of the waiters managed to squeeze us in, and looked after our table of six, along with several others. He kept us supplied with numerous glasses of Kölsch that evening and took care of our food orders as well.

Gaffel am Dom, is another large, and cavernous establishment which is on the other side of the cathedral, and just around the corner from the main station (Hauptbahnhof).  It is a beer-hall I know well from numerous visits trips to Cologne, and the Gaffel Kölsch sold is a soft, hoppy, and easy-drinking beer which slips down rather easily. It is also one of the most widely available brands of Kölsch, in Cologne.

Probably my favourite beer house in the city centre is Peter’s Brauhaus, and another establishment that I’ve visited several times. One of the most memorable of these occasions was in 2017, when we called in on what was our second night in the city. Peter’s is a very traditional looking establishment, and the Peters Kӧlsch we enjoyed there was amongst the best we came across during our stay. Even better it was served direct from small metal casks, perched up on a stand behind the bar. Being dispensed by gravity, without the use of extraneous CO2, the beer was smooth tasty and far less gassy compared to what is often the case in Cologne.

Bierhaus en d'r Salzgass, is another classic old town pub, sited on a narrow cobbled street which leads from Heumarkt to Buttermarkt, in an area teeming with pubs, bars and restaurants. I was recommended to try this outlet, by Manchester-based blogger Matt whose informed and well-written site, “When My Feet go Through the Door”, is well worth clicking onto. Matt assured me that, as well as serving Päffgen Kölsch, the pub’s menu was also of a high standard. Two years after that visit to Peter’s, we tried our luck with Bierhaus en d'r Salzgass, after being turned away from a number of other outlets that evening.

As the German speaker of the group, I was left to ask if the pub could accommodate our party of five. The place seemed packed, but the waiter, perhaps warming to being addressed in his native tongue, managed to find us a table squeezed in towards the back of the pub. He also confirmed that we could also pay by card, provided we paid as a group. It was a good move befriending that particular Köbes, as he looked after us well, ensuring we never had an empty glass in front of us, and that our food arrived promptly. I made sure to give him a generous tip when it came to paying the bill.

The Kölsch, which was dispensed straight from the cask was every bit as good as I remembered it, and the food was equally good. Eschewing the rather obvious roast pork knuckle, I opted instead for an old favourite from visits to Munich, in the form of Leberkässe mit Spiegelei & Bratkartoffeln. We spent a couple of hours in this real old-school, traditional pub, soaking up the atmosphere and the beer in equal quantities. I had to accompany the Köbes to the bar, in order to pay, and it was here that I saw the kegs of Päffgen, set out on the counter in a very similar manner to those at Peters Brauhaus.

Päffgen Kӧlsch is worthy of an article of its own, which I will post another time, but not being able to make that third, and probably final visit to this legendary brewpub, remains my sole regret of turning down this year’s visit to IDS. Of course, there’s no guarantee that I would have been able to call in at Päffgen, having been thwarted by circumstances during the last three trips to Cologne, but I regard it as a “special place” and somewhere I’d like to experience one last time. We shall see!

The Mount Edgecombe, Tunbridge Wells

On Thursday evening, the family and I attended a 50th birthday party. The birthday celebrant was the eldest of Eileen’s two nieces, resulting in a large extended family gathering that night. The venue for this event was the Mount Edgecumbe, a hotel and restaurant situated in the middle of Tunbridge Wells Common, but just a few minutes’ walk from the town centre. It occupies a large and attractive Georgian house, set in its own grounds, and reached by a narrow track leading down from Mount Ephraim, at the top of the common. 

Whilst familiar with Mount Edgecumbe, I have only visited the place on a handful of occasions, the most recent one being, in 2016. When I worked at nearby High Brooms, colleagues and I occasionally called in for a quick lunchtime snack and a pint, but that's a couple of decades in the past, now. Although I can find no record of this, but I’m fairly certain that the place used to be a French restaurant, called La Galoche. "Galoche” of course, is the French term meaning an “overshoe, protecting against rain, mud". It equates to the English word, "Wellingtons," - sometimes known as "galoshes,” and the name likely arose due to the proximity of Mount Edgecumbe’s prestigious neighbour, the Wellington Hotel. This impressive late 19th-century building is situated on the crest of the ridge overlooking the common, and has now become a Travelodge, offering an affordable option for those seeking accommodation in Tunbridge Wells.

The Mount Edgecombe has been in the same family ownership since 2012, and as well as offering food and drink boasts six luxury boutique bedrooms. Being just a few minutes’ walk from the town centre, the Edgecombe’s bar and restaurant is popular with diners, and there is also a bar area, a cave, plus a garden with views across the common and town. For those who prefer to drink, the place still functions as a pub and on Thursday there was a good selection that included Harvey’s Best, a beer from Pig & Porter, plus the strangely named Pilcrow Pale from Dorking Brewery. Unfortunately, I had to send my pint back because it was way too hazy – I did check on Untappd first, but there was no mention of murk, such as NEIPA. The replacement came back just as bad – don’t the bar staff look at these things when they’re pulling a pint? The Harvey’s was fine, so perhaps it serves me right for being adventurous!

Or perhaps not, as Eileen’s other niece had an equally hazy pint of Pig & Porter, and this acted as the harbinger of things to come. We followed the instructions to make our menu selections prior to the event, and the coordinator had organized the food orders accordingly. Despite this, there was a considerable delay between the starters being served and the arrival of the main courses. Seeing as just a handful of people had ordered starters, the wait for the main course was unnecessarily lengthy. The mains arrived lukewarm, rather than piping hot and my choice of “Garden pea and Parmesan risotto, with Parmesan shavings & pea shoots”, was definitely missing the Parmesan! Mrs PBT’s had chosen the same dish, and her comments echoed mine, as did those of the family member sitting next to me.

All of this was surprising, as the majority of Trip Advisor reviews are full of praise for the operation. Perhaps we caught it on a bad day, or possibly the fact our party was tucked away in a separate, first floor room, didn’t help when it came to serving the food. The room itself was nice and cosy, but wasn’t easy to access via a narrow, wooden staircase. I’m not sure whether there was a “dumb waiter” arrangement for bringing the food up from below, but if there wasn’t, the poor waiting staff must have had their work cut out. Despite these issues, the staff who served us, were polite, pleasant, and helpful.

We won’t be rushing back there though – certainly not to eat, but if you just fancy a drink and the weather is clement, why not take a walk up across Tunbridge Wells Common to the Mount Edgecumbe.  You will need a good map I’m afraid, as it’s difficult to give good written directions, especially if you are heading up from the High Street, or the station. Furthermore, do not attempt to try and find this pub-cum-restaurant at dusk, as a friend and I did 10 or so years ago, as you will inevitably get lost amongst the maze of foot ways and paths which criss-cross the common. You also run the risk of stumbling, or worse still. falling off one of the rocky outcrops that pop up when you least expect them.

Cologne sadly, is off the agenda

 

At the beginning of next week, approximately six of my work colleagues will travel across to the Rhineland city of Cologne, in order to participate in the 2025 International Dental Show (IDS). The IDS, which occurs biennially, is generally regarded as the world's largest dental show. Although this status might now be challenged by other similar dental exhibitions held in the emerging markets of the Middle and the Far East. (Dubai & Singapore). 

My company has maintained a presence at the IDS since before I became an employee in 2006, and although the event requires considerable time, money and effort, the rewards associated with it are well worth it. Chief amongst the rewards, my employer has become the largest manufacturer of dental materials in the United Kingdom. 

The dental show also provides opportunities to acquire new customers and distributors for our products, as well as to discover innovative ideas in the field of dentistry. Additionally, it offers a chance to connect with customers from around the globe, with in-person interactions being considered effective. The COVID-19 pandemic and associated lock-downs have demonstrated that digital platforms, such as Zoom, are no substitute face-to-face interactions. Sometimes these meetings extend into evening gatherings. A meal or a few beers with a prospective customer or an existing client can be highly beneficial, although it is difficult to quantify the value of such interactions. Despite the assertions made by proponents of virtual meetings, face-to-face interactions remain unparalleled.

Over the past 15 years, I have written numerous posts about these biennial visits to IDS, and with eight visits to Cologne, six of which were for business purposes, under my belt, I have developed a considerable affection for this Rhineland city. I have also become quite proficient in navigating my way around Cologne and can readily identify some of the finest for both eating and drinking. When I first joined the company, the travel plan for IDS involved driving across to Cologne in a hired mini bus, loaded with promotional materials. Our route from Kent took us through the Channel Tunnel, across Northern France and Belgium, and then into the Germany. 

In 2017, the company switched to rail travel, and by sending samples and product literature ahead of time, it became possible to take a 30-minute drive from the factory to Ebbsfleet, board a Brussels-bound Eurostar service. At Brussels, we would then take a Deutsche Bahn ICE train or a Thalys service to Cologne. After the pandemic the journey became longer, and more complicated than previously, because Eurostar has refused to reopen the two international, Kentish stations at Ebbsfleet and Ashford. Protests from Kent based businesses, trade bodies and residents continue to fall on deaf ears – time perhaps to strip Eurostar of its franchise, and let a different operator have a go?

Since I first went to Cologne, the company has used the same hotel, the Appartel am Dom, a friendly family run establishment close to the Haupt Bahnhof, and within 25 minutes walking distance of Köln Messe, the vast agglomeration of exhibition halls on the other side of the river Rhine. Getting to it on foot involves a walk across the Hohenzollern Bridge, a similar structure to the Hungerford Bridge which runs across the River Thames to Charing Cross station from the South Bank. 

In recent years, as I have grown older and my walking pace has slowed, I have opted to take the S-Bahn train across the Rhine from Haupt Bahnhof to Köln Messe – Deutz, on the opposite side of the river. This journey is straightforward and simple, and it is also free, as one's dental show exhibition pass is valid on these trains. The service is particularly useful when time is limited or during bad weather. Some colleagues have found out the hard way, just how exposed that crossing is when it rains. Arriving at the exhibition soaked isn't the best start to a long day, and looking like a drowned rat doesn't create a good impression either! 

Back in 2023, I wrote an article titled "Cologne for the Final Time?" which indeed turned out to be my last visit. Prior to Christmas, I was asked by our General Manager if I wanted to attend the  upcoming 2025 event, but I declined, albeit with mixed emotions. Although the company offered the option of attending for limited hours, I realised this wouldn't be feasible. One of the primary responsibilities of staff members at such events is to ensure that someone is always present at the stand. This is crucial because  key members of our team, such as the Sales Manager and General Manager, are often either away, visiting other companies, meeting prospective clients, or hosting meetings at our stand. While I possess a fair amount of product knowledge, I am not equipped to provide information on pricing, distribution deals, etc.

There would then be a return journey across the river Rhine, or in my case, a train trip, back to the hotel. An opportunity to freshen up and change into something casual would follow before heading back into the city centre for a meal at a prearranged restaurant or bar. Consequently, there is very little personal free time. However, during my last visit, I managed to check off a couple of Kölsch outlets from my list. This was an exception rather than the norm. 

Given these circumstances, I decided it would be best not to attend, as I would likely find myself standing at the booth until the exhibition closed at 6 pm. Looking back, I see that I posted following IDS 2023, that having crossed those final two Cologne “essentials” off from my list, there is no compelling reason for a further visit to the city. I closed the article with the words, "I may feel different in a couple of years’ time, but at this current moment, I'm not sure whether I want to do the full week, IDS experience again."

So, as my colleagues depart for Germany on Monday morning, I am not overly disappointed that I will not be accompanying them. Instead, I would like to reflect on some of the notable establishments in Cologne, where one can enjoy quality food, freely flowing beer, engaging conversation, and a relaxing atmosphere after a long day at the exhibition stand.