A few years after
my late father retired from his job with the
Royal Mail, my parents moved from their
bungalow, located in a small
Kent village, to a similar, but slightly smaller
one floor dwelling, situated in a much larger Norfolk village.
Dad had joined
the
Royal Mail, after completing his
National Service, “playing soldiers, out
in Germany”, as he like to put it.It was a fortunate posting though, as some national servicemen ended up in war zones
(Korea or Malaysia), where it was very much the real thing and, sadly, not all of them returned. Following completion of his stint in the army, dad spent the rest of his working life employed
in various parts of what was then known as the
General Post Office (GPO).
His own parents
had also retired to
East Anglia, although in their case it was a small village in
Suffolk, rather than
Norfolk, where they spent their twilight years, and it was
at their long, low and traditional looking bungalow, that my sister and I spent
several happy summer holidays. It was the prospect of downsizing, and releasing
some of the equity tied up in the
Kentish family home that prompted my parent’s
relocation to
East Anglia, although I’m still not sure why they chose
Norfolk
over
Suffolk.
Mum and dad’s move
to Norfolk, took place a few years after Eileen and I started our own family,
and with money being quite tight in those early years, the odd long weekend say
at my parent’s bungalow provided a low-cost holiday, in a new location. Later
on, when our financial situation improved, we spent more time in that part of
the world, by renting a cottage on the Suffolk-Norfolk border. We did this
several times, as the arrangement worked out better, than staying at mum and
dad’s, especially as it curtailed much of the well-chronicled antipathy that sometimes occurs between
a wife and her mother-in-law.
All these visits
provided ample opportunity to become acquainted with the local pubs – a
tradition that continued after my mother’s passing, dad’s
Alzheimer’s
diagnosis, and his subsequent move into a care home. My preferred option was to
make a weekend of these visits, drive up either on a
Friday or a
Saturday,
book into a convenient
B&B, and combine the trip with a visit to the
parental bungalow.
Son Matthew would often accompanied me on these
trips, as grandmothers in particular, love seeing their
grandchildren,
especially when they’re the first-born.
Mum was no exception, although her
interest waned a little after my youngest sister hatched a brood of her own.
Looking back, I probably made
3-4 such visits a year, to
Norfolk, and those that involved visits to pubs, on the journey up, or whilst
there, which must have been virtually all of them, have been chronicled on this
blog. This was especially the case if there was a pub of special note. It’s therefore well worth
taking a look back at some of these establishments, seeing what they had to
offer, at the time of my visit, and whether they are worthy of a return visit.
I’m going to start with five pubs, united by
a common thread, as they all feature on CAMRA’s National Inventory of pubs with
interiors of historic importance.
First up, we have the
Cock at Brent Eleigh, in the south-western corner of
Suffolk. I managed
a brief stop there on a journey up to
Norfolk, where I spent a couple of
days visiting my father. The
Cock
is an attractive thatched and pink-rendered wayside inn which dates back to
the 18th-century. The main bar with its quarry tiled floor, and
1930s brick
fireplace is on the left and is accessed from a corner door. A coal fire was
blazing in the grate, complete with a dog laying stretched out in front of it.
Seating consisted of two basic bare benches, plus an assortment of chairs and
bar stools. I enjoyed a pint of
Adnam’s Southwold, which at just
£3.10 a pint
(2016 prices), represented good value.
The
Cock is situated on the not terribly busy
A1141,
which runs down from
Lavenham to
Hadleigh. Alternatively, you can
do what I did and follow your nose up from
Sudbury; a route which takes
you through some charming villages. The villages on the route I took northward,
after leaving the pub, are if anything even more charming with
Chelsworth
and
Bildeston absolute gems.
Next up is
the
Viper, at Mill Green, near Ingatestone, which is one of only two pubs in
the country to be named after
Britain’s sole poisonous snake. Situated on the
edge of a wood, the
Viper is a white-painted, four-room pub, which appears to
be a pair of
19th Century cottages knocked into one. I didn’t get the chance to
explore the pub properly, as my visit took place on a busy
Sunday lunchtime. I
was on my way back to
Kent, following the weekend visit to
Norfolk, described
above.
I parked myself at a table in the small
"tap
room" which occupies the centre left of the pub and enjoyed a
cheese sandwich along with a pint of the appropriately named
Jake the Snake
4.5%, brewed for the pub by
Mighty Oak. It is hard to believe this pub with its
rural woodland setting and unspoilt plain interior is so close to both
London
and major transport links, as it seems a world away. It would be nice to return
for a more leisurely visit, ideally after a walk in the woods.
Next, we have
the half-timbered Green
Dragon, in the picturesque Norfolk market town of Wymondham. I was
on my way to visit my ailing parents, and after a lengthy drive up the
M11motorway and A11 trunk road, I was in need of what the Americans would call
a “comfort stop”. I was also feeling a trifle peckish and had
marked Wymondham as a suitable lunchtime stopping place. After turning off the busy A11, I made
my way into the town centre and found a space in one of the municipal car
parks and that all important “comfort station”.
The
Green Dragon dates back to late
15th Century although
much of its exterior is
Tudor and half-timbered with a dormer window. It was
lucky to have survived only superficial damage in the great fire of
1615 and
there are still scorch marks on external timbers. The interior retains some of
the old features such as beams and mantelpiece, and this is reflected in the
bar, the cosy little snug with wooden pew type furniture and a small dining
area on one side.
The pub was busy when I entered, with the right-hand dining
room completely full and the main bar likewise, but on inquiring at the bar, I
was told there were still a couple of tables spare in the tiny snug. This was
situated off a corridor, leading off to the left of the bar. Before
disappearing to grab one of these tables I ordered myself a pint of Horizon
from Lincolnshire brewers, Newby
Wyke along with a lunch of battered cod and chips.
I like old pubs, especially ones like the
Green Dragon
which have been serving thirsty customers for hundreds of years. The snug was
simply decorated and simply furnished with a timeless feel to it, but one thing
bang up to date was the free
Wi-Fi; an important feature which more and
more pubs are now providing, with the people sitting at the other tables all
engrossed in their own conversations, a spot of web surfing helped pass the
time until my food arrived.
It’s back to
Suffolk for the next
CAMRA National Heritage pub, and where better than the unspoilt King's Head at Laxfield
The pub took a bit of finding, but this time I had the assistance of a
recently acquired Sat Nav, plus the presence of son Matthew, for company.
The pub took a bit of finding, as it is tucked away down a narrow lane, at the
back of the church, but fortunately modern technology took us straight there.
The King's Head is
also known as the “Low House”, probably on account of its long
low profile, which is topped by a thatched roof. It is a timeless, multi-roomed
pub, and is one of two hostelries in this attractive, mid-Suffolk village.
We arrived, shortly before
8.30 pm and found the car park, and most of the lane
outside already full of parked vehicles. Fortunately we managed to squeeze the
car in just below the church, and soon discovered the reason for the pub’s
popularity; the
King's Head was hosting its annual
May
Bank Holiday Beer Festival. We made our way
inside, keen to see for ourselves exactly why the Kings Head had made its way
onto CAMRA’s Heritage Pub list. According to the website, “The main
room at the King’s Head, features listed high back settles set around a small
fireplace.” The pub also has the
added attraction of gravity served beer, which is kept in a small tap room to
rear.
We found our way
into this room, pausing for a look at the high-backed settle which takes up
much of the space, before proceeding to the aforementioned tap room, at
the end of the corridor. Here we could see a row of casks racked ready to
dispense a range of Adnams beers. We asked about food, only to be told
that all tables were booked, but fortunately there was some space in the
smoking shelter, out in the yard adjacent to the taproom.
We grabbed a couple of spare seats then
I went off to the serving hatch to order our beers and also our food. As I was driving,
I opted for the ordinary
Adnams Southwold Bitter. Matt,
on the other hand, opted for a pint of
Adnams Dry- Hop lager. To eat we
both went for the s
teak and ale pie option, served with chips and peas.
Service was quick, despite the crowds, and our food arrived promptly. The pies
were not
“proper” pies, but the steak was juicy and tender, and
the gravy filling was suitably thick and tasty. After a two and a half journey,
the end part of which was through a series of winding lanes, we were both
famished, and our meals were gratefully appreciated.
Fourth on the list, is the Red Lion at Kenninghall. It was whilst looking for somewhere to lay my
head, that I came across
Kenninghall; a large village roughly halfway between
Bury St
Edmunds and
Norwich. The
Red Lion is a
CAMRA National Inventory
pub, which has been on my list of pubs to visit for some time, so when the pub
came up on
Bookings.com at a very good price, I jumped at the chance of
an overnight stay.
I drove up early on
Sunday afternoon, surprised that the
traffic, particularly on the
M25, was so heavy, although once past
Stansted I made good time. With the aid of my
sat-nav, arrived in
Kenninghall
shortly before
5pm. I made a brief stop at the well-stocked village store,
and post office, before parking up at the
Red Lion, which lies in the
shadow of the imposing
St Mary's church. I was shown to a cosy little room at the front of the building, with a
door opening straight out onto the street.
I was aware that
the Red Lion wouldn't be serving food on Sunday evening, so had carried
out some prior research to see what the alternatives were. Kenninghall
is large enough to support two pubs, and right in the centre of the village,
opposite the post office, is the White Horse. I discovered that Kenninghall was
both a thriving village and a very pleasant place to live – facts I’d gathered from
my walk down to the White Horse, and also from the parish magazine I
picked up from the bar. I also learned that the Red Lion, was known for
the quality of its beer and was much more of a locals' pub than its more
contemporary counterpart.
As mentioned
earlier the Red Lion is on CAMRA's heritage pub list and after being
closed for approximately seven years, re-opened in February 1997,
following a careful and extensive restoration. The building dates from the
early 16th Century, and as well as a traditional public bar, has a pine
panelled snug, which is one of only two of its kind in East Anglia. There is
a 50-seater restaurant At the other end of the pub, laid out in the style of
old stables. I enjoyed a satisfying full English breakfast there the following
morning. In addition to the good, wholesome home-cooked food, the Red Lion has four guest
rooms, and hosts regular live music sessions and other community events.
The final, National
Inventory pub is the legendary Butt & Oyster, at Pin Mill, near Ipswich. The
latter is a hamlet on the south bank of River Orwell, which is tidal at
this point, and was once a busy landing point for ship-borne cargo. It was also
a centre for the repair of Thames sailing barges and home to many small
industries such as sail making, a maltings, plus a brickyard. Like my home
county of Kent, the east coast of England has a long history of smuggling,
and Pin Mill and the Butt & Oyster pub allegedly played key
parts in this. Pin Mill has been the subject of many paintings and photographs
and is a popular yacht and dinghy sailing destination.
The Butt & Oyster is best described as a traditional 17th century inn, famed
for its riverside setting and the fine views it offers across the estuary of
the River Orwell. To take full advantage of this, there is a substantial amount
of outdoor seating to front of pub, and this is very popular on sunny
days. The Butt & Oyster can
get very busy in summer and also at weekends. It was a pub I had wanted to
visit for a long time, but despite making regular trips up to Norfolk,
there never seemed sufficient time to divert across to the Orwell estuary, and
the tiny riverside settlement of Pin Mill. It wasn’t until I looked at a
more detailed map of the area, that I realised just how do-able it was to
divert off the A12 - A14 junction at Copdock to the south of Ipswich.
The acquisition of a Sat-Nav made the whole process even easier.
There are three
separate rooms inside, connected by a corridor with flagstone floors, and along
with the main bar, there is a small snug, plus a much larger dining room. There
are some high-backed settles plus a large open fire in main bar area, making it
very cosy on cold winter days. The pub has featured in a number of films,
including an episode of the TV series Lovejoy. Back then it belonged to Tolly Cobbold
who were the dominant brewery, not just in the Ipswich area, but across
wide swathes of Suffolk. Tolly of course, have long gone to that
great brewery graveyard in the sky, and their impressive Cliff Brewery,
fronting on to the waterfront in Ipswich, is still the subject of a number of
redevelopment plans. Today the Butt & Oyster, is owned by local
brewing heroes Adnam’s, although it is leased out to Deben Inns
who are a local pub group that run a number of similarly successful pubs around
Ipswich/Woodbridge area
I was then going to
move on to pubs I have stayed at, in the Norfolk- East Anglia area, that provide overnight accommodation. But as this article has already expanded to four pages, I shall save that part of the story for another time.