A Tunbridge Wells stagger

Last Thursday afternoon I enjoyed a long overdue catch up with my old walking partner, Eric. I say overdue because the idea of meeting up had been on the agenda, for quite some time, but somehow things always seemed to have got in the way. One would think that me switching to part time working, would have freed up a lot more time, but somehow, this didn’t seem to be the case.  

Friday might have worked, if my GP’s practice hadn’t booked me in for a shingles vaccination on that day. I could, of course, re-arranged the jab, but having known several people who contracted shingles – including Eileen’s late brother, who copped a particularly nasty bout of this “dormant” infection, I wanted to protect myself, now that I’m eligible. (David spent the Christmas of 2022, on a hospital trolley, waiting for a bed to become free. A few weeks later, he sadly passed away. Although the cause of death, wasn’t directly connected to shingles, we’re convinced that it severely weakened his immune system).

Thursday then, seemed as good a time as any, because although I act as a chauffeur for Mrs PBT's, in order to get her to and from her Thursday part time job, at a local scaffolding company, it meant that after 3pm I was a free man. We had tentatively looked at a late afternoon/early evening in Hastings, but with an hour's train journey, there and back, it would eat too much into our drinking and pub exploration time. Instead, we decided on a wander around neighbouring Tunbridge Wells, taking in a few of the pubs and bars on the way.

Now jumping on a bus at 3pm, just as the local schools were chucking out, probably wasn't the wisest of moves, and whilst we could have taken the train, both of us have bus passes, allowing us free travel. In addition, arriving at Tunbridge Wells rail station, would have meant a long walk back up the hill to reach the start of our planned pub walkabout. Our journey took us through Southborough and St Johns, and this was where we encountered significant congestion. Parents collecting their children in large SUVs and then trying to squeeze their vehicles through narrow gaps, didn’t help, and whilst many school kids do use public transport, the number of schools in this area has always been an issue, so far as traffic density is concerned.

Despite the congestion, we still reached the George, our starting point, just after 4pm. This former coaching inn, is situated opposite the site of the former Kent & Sussex Hospital (back in the day known as the “Kent & Snuffit.”)  The hospital has since been replaced by an unusual development of upscale houses and villas, which although commanding premium prices, fail to stand out architecturally, and offer little to write home about. 

I’d been meaning to visit the George for some time, especially as I can't even remember the last time I was in there. From memory that visit was for a CAMRA - related function several years ago. In 1739, the George was a coaching inn for those travelling between Tunbridge Wells and London, and with its graceful exterior, plus an interior full of exposed beams, brickwork, fireplaces, and oak floorboards, still exudes warmth and nostalgia from every corner.

When we reached the pub, we noticed a number of buildings to the left of the main building, one of which is home to the Fonthill Brewing Co, a relatively new establishment which supplies beer not only to the George but also to two other pubs belonging to the same group. (The Ragged Trousers, plus the Sussex Arms). The free trade is also supplied. 

Although the brewery has been operating for several years, I had not encountered their beers before, so stepping inside the George, we had the opportunity to try a couple. Actually, there were cask options from Fonthill, plus several of their keg beers available. We sampled two of the former, the first of which was rapidly consumed, due to the warm weather and the requirement to remain hydrated. So Good Morning Captain – a salute one should always give to a magpie, plus Creedence American Pale Ale. Weighing in at 3.9% and 4.6% abv, respectively, both beers were good, and it was difficult to choose between the two.

Whilst in the pub, we couldn’t help noticing a tall and rather stylish looking lady, striding around the bar. She was armed with a rather large and expensive looking camera, and after engaging with her briefly, we discovered that she’d just finished a photo-shoot for Fonthill. She explained that Fonthill was getting ready to launch its own taproom, housed in an outbuilding, adjacent to the brewery. 

She didn't know when the opening would be taking place, but she gathered it must be fairly soon. We agreed, as another watering hole for the good citizens of Tunbridge Wells, seemed like a good idea. Later on, noticing that the sky darkened I wandered out onto the top of the rear staircase, which overlooks the site below. You can see from the photograph, just how hilly this area of Tunbridge Wells is, and also how the pub management has fully utilised the available space. As the pub started to fill up, we decided it was time to move on and head off into the centre of Tunbridge Wells.

Our next port of call what's the Tunbridge Wells outlet of Fuggles, opened in 2013 and situated close to the main shopping area, this particular Fuggles is the original beer café. Personally, I prefer the company’s Tonbridge pub, but living in the town I would say that, wouldn’t I?  My preference isn't just based on location geographical location, but instead is because I find Tunbridge Wells one rather closed in. 

It is housed in a long and quite narrow former shop unit, with little in the way of natural light - apart from what comes in through the front windows. The Tonbridge outlet, on the other hand, is far more a proper pub, than a corridor, with plenty of natural light and a bright and airy feel to it. Don't get me wrong, as both are good, and both serving excellent beer. I also get the feeling that the two outlets have a certain degree of autonomy, regarding the beers stocked, and the food offering – see below. However, if the group manages to source a particularly interesting, or sought after beer, you will normally find it on sale in both outlets.

We arrived shortly after 6pm, and I found myself experiencing mild hunger pangs. Had I been more attentive, I might have suggested we dine at the George. However, I was aware that Fuggles, though not offering full meals, provides an interesting and extensive selection of snack foods. I inquired about hot dogs, but unlike its Tonbridge counterpart, the Tunbridge Wells location lacks the space and equipment for this option. Instead, they recommended a snack known as a "Reuben". The Reuben sandwich is a North American grilled sandwich typically consisting of corned beef, Swiss cheese, and sauerkraut. 

For context, I recall enjoying my first Reuben during a visit to the United States approximately eighteen years ago. At Fuggles, their version was a baguette filled with hot pastrami, accompanied by a generous serving of cornichons—those small, pickled gherkins. Priced reasonably at £9, I decided to try one, and seeing my choice, Eric opted for the same. My food arrived first, and due to limited seating, we ate standing at the bar, enjoying our meal alongside a well-crafted Larkins Pale Ale—a rare offering. True to its name, this beer is pale in colour, differing from the copper-bronze hue that is typical of the other Larkin’s beers. It is also notably well-hopped, as well.

We noticed local CAMRA member Taxi Dave, sitting in the pub, enjoying a pint. He left Fuggles at the same time as us and joined us on the walk down towards the Pantiles. He left us at the bus stop, and we hadn’t gone far when Eric said, we should have done the same. I declined, as I needed the exercise, as well as some fresh air to clear my head, so we carried on downhill, until we reached the historic Pantiles area of Tunbridge Wells. The pub we were making was the Ragged Trousers and as alluded to above is owned by the Fonthill Collective, the same group as the George and the nearby Sussex Arms.

Established in 2006, the Ragged Trousers was founded on a shoestring budget, by a group of five friends. The group were looking for a place close to the Forum, where people could gather for pre-gig drinks and again when the club closed. The Forum is an independent music venue that opened in 1993, and the building it occupies is a former public toilet! The vision that the friends had, extended beyond opening just another watering hole, to one that envisioned transforming the Pantiles from a sleepy shopping area to a bustling destination for events, food, and drinks. If the Pantiles was the slumbering heart of Tunbridge Wells, their pub would be the catalyst to bring the area to life.

Nineteen years later, the friends’ vision has extended beyond their wildest dreams, and today the Ragged Trousers is at the centre of the lively and bustling area that the Pantiles has become. We experienced some of this ourselves, on our way to the pub, and afterwards when we visited the nearby Duke of York. 

The “Ragged,” as the pub is referred to locally, offers a similar range of drinks to the George, with cask ales, craft ales, and signature cocktails alongside authentic French brasserie cuisine and traditional British pub classics. The “Ragged” takes its name from the semi-biographical novel, by Robert Tressell, who based the book on some of his own experiences of poverty and exploitation, during the early 1900's in nearby Hastings. Back in my student days, I remember the book being serialised on Radio Four, and it remains a book that is high on my reading list. Longman Best Bitter, plus Fonthill Good Morning Captain, were the two cask offerings at the Ragged, and we both found the Longman beer to be on good form.

Our final port of call was the nearby Duke of York an early 18^th Century pub, on a prominent corner site, close to the historic Chalybeate spring, that established Tunbridge Wells as a spa town. Its position, right at the heart of the Pantiles, makes the pub stand out, and as an added bonus, the DOY is owned by Fuller’s of Chiswick, brewers of London Pride and ESB (amongst others). 

Like the Ragged, the Duke was heaving, although most of the customers were sat outside, making the most of the UK’s third heatwave, in as many weeks. A bank of five hand-pulls adorns the counter, offering a range of Fuller’s beers that included Pride, ESB, Dark Star and Gale's Seafarers. I opted for the latter, as it’s a beer we don’t often see in Kent – although I did manage to track some down in Portsmouth, earlier in the year. We joined the throng of people sitting outside, most of whom were younger than us. We found out later, that the university summer term had just finished, meaning many students had headed back to their home towns, and villages. 

This snippet of information was relayed by a very pleasant young lady, who got chatting to me whilst Eric headed back inside, to buy another round. She was waiting for her sister, and a couple of friends to arrive, so rather than burying her face in her phone, took the opportunity to talk, instead. 

As a former university student myself, the experience brought back some pleasant, end of term memories. It was a good way to end, what had been a most enjoyable visit to Tunbridge Wells, and the opportunity to sample, and enjoy the whole "Pantiles experience” was certainly not one to be missed. The group of friends, who opened the Ragged Trousers, with that aim in mind, certainly succeeded, helped, of course, by the other similarly minded businesses, who were also attracted to this attractive area of the historic spa town.