An update on the local pub scene, in West Kent (and beyond)

Blogging has taken a bit of a back seat for a while, as I deal with the seemingly complex issues regarding my future financial position. These seem to revolve around Pension Consolidation and Pension Drawdown. Having now done much of the groundwork, there does now seem to be some light at the end of the tunnel, so with any luck I shall soon be able to set a firm date for my retirement.

In tandem with this I’ve been sorting out various areas of both house and garden, with the aim of making life easier, post-retirement. So, I’ve been sorting out various unwanted kitchen gadgets, tools and garden stuff (enough plastic flowerpots to start our own garden centre). There’s also the now, thankfully shrinking, mountain of household paperwork that I’ve slowly been feeding into the large, office-sized, shredder that we’ve got at work.

Clothes are another target area destined for the charity shop, although the main clear-out, especially of “office-type” outfits will have to wait until I retire. The garden is also in line for a makeover, as I gradually convert our “little oasis of green” to the most low-maintenance plot I can come up with, although here it’s going to be a case of “no pain, no gain.”  Basically, I'm looking for a garden that almost looks after itself, so that I don't have to!

However, I haven’t given up completely on beer and pubs, and locally, there’s quite a lot going on at the moment, and we kick off with the Cross Keys. The latter is a large pub, in a prominent position on the edge of Southborough, that has stood empty for over a year, but after being acquired by new owners, is undergoing a refit plus a good spruce up.  The pub is due to reopen following refurbishment with a "fresh identity" and will trade as the Boundary Bar & Grill. This will be under the ownership of two experienced business partners, one of whom also runs the Imperial, (also in Southborough).

Moving a little further along the A26, we come to the former Shuffle House, in the St John’s area of Tunbridge Wells. The pub has been renamed as the Duck & Goose, but back in its Shuffle House guise, it acted as the venue for my firm’s Christmas party. The shuffle tables remain as a feature of the Duck & Goose, and from the photos on the pub’s website, the interior appears as little changed, so why the change of name? 

I also came across shuffle tables at the Mola Bar in the Norwegian town of Alesund, which we visited back in March, when the settlement was the first port of call on the cruise that took us beyond the Arctic Circle. Shuffleboards take up a lot of space, but can provide a spot of measures excitement, providing there’s sufficient room in the pub, or bar.

Moving on to a slightly more rural location, we come to the Fleur de Lys, in the centre of Leigh, a former estate village between Hildenborough and Chiddingstone. The Fleur has been undergoing a major refit for the past nine months or more, and with progress remaining painfully slow, there are still no signs yet of a definitive opening date. The Fleur is reportedly owned by a wealthy, crypto-currency trader, who bought and restored the nearby Hall Place, a grade II -listed, 19^th century, stately pile, complete with its own well laid out and extensive grounds. 

The story I picked up on locally (don’t forget I work in the neighbouring village of Chiddingstone Causeway), was that the monied new owner of Hale Place also bought the pub, because he thought it important that a village like Leigh, should have its own pub. A philosophy I’m sure many people would agree with, so why the delay in re-opening the Fleur?

Heading out towards Sussex now, in a south-westerly direction, we come to the Brown Trout, sited close to the village of Lamberhurst, and close to Bewl Water. The latter is a large reservoir which opened back in the 1970's.  Following a period of closure, during which the pub was extensively refurbished by our old friends, Stonegate Inns, we find the pub-co seeking a new licensee to run it. This means there are hopes of the pub reopening soon. The Brown Trout is a pub that I’ve only been in a couple of times, as it’s a little tucked away, so it will be good to call in though, when it does eventually reopen.

Travelling in the more or less opposite direction, brings us to the former Whitbread Hop Farm at Beltring, where a converted, former oast house, on the edge of the farm, has been bought from former owners, Whitbread, for an undisclosed sum. Still trading under its former name of Brooker’s Oast, this former Beefeater outlet, which had been due to close following the winding up of the steakhouse chain, by owners, Whitbread, remains open for business. The pub is now owned by an outfit called, Queensway Inns, whose other two pubs are located down in Cornwall, making this a slightly strange purchase. As one observer has pointed out, the establishment appears to be operating much as before, so if you want a steakhouse-type meal, this is the place to come.

On the borders between West Kent and Surrey, and standing proudly on Westerham's village green for more than seven centuries, is the Grasshopper on the Green, a remarkable survivor amongst English pubs. Over the course of its long history, the Grasshopper has seen 31 monarchs and 74 Prime Ministers come and go and yet the warmth of its welcome remains unchanged. The pub now has new owners, in the guise of Mike & Nicola Vigar, who were loyal customers for 25 years before taking over the reins. Compared to the grandeur of Westerham’s other two pubs, the Kings Head and the George & Dragon, the much smaller Grasshopper, is cosier and much more people sized, making it the establishment that gets my vote as the “best in Westerham.”

This brings us to the penultimate pub in the area, facing a new future, which is the former Spread Eagle, in the Hawkenbury area of Tunbridge Wells.  Until recently, the site of the pub had been earmarked for redevelopment, but in a turn up for the books, this attractive looking pub has now been listed by Stonegate, as available for a fixed term tenancy with food-led potential.

The final pub is not actually in the West Kent area, but I couldn’t close this article on re-opening public houses without mentioning the Elephant & Castle in Lewes. Readers may recall me going looking for this pub, on a recent visit to Lewes, only to find it, unexpectedly closed. Now, according to the Brighton Argus, this Harvey’s-tied house is due to reopen at the end of this month, under the stewardship of new landlord Max Aben, with local couple, Liz Temperley and Pat Mundy, running the food offering, under the banner of their already successful, Pat's Pizza operation. Unfortunately, this will necessitate me making what will be my third trip to Lewes this year, although it will allow me to “mop up” a number of other pubs that I’ve missed on recent visits to the East Sussex, county town. It’s a hard life!!

 

Two contrasting pubs, along the Tonbridge - Redhill rail-line

It was Pub Friday again two days ago, and seeing as I’d been such a dutiful husband, and sorted out — or "partially" sorted out, to be more accurate, the disorganised kitchen in our extension (the “old kitchen”, as it’s now been designated), I felt fully justified the following morning, in abandoning Mrs PBT’s to finish the job. Spoiler alert: she didn’t finish it. I’ll be doing that next week, because despite my wife's  protestations to the contrary, I remain the tidiest and most organised of the pair of us. Anyway, that’s enough of our domestic shenanigans. The real question was: where to go?

I’m still working towards beating last year’s target of visiting 106 different pubs over the course of a calendar year. Before Friday, my total stood at 96, and seeing as I managed to tick off two more that day, including one that was totally new to me, I’m now languishing at 98 pubs, with the aim of hitting the magic ton by next weekend. There are still quite a few pubs left for me to tick off in Tunbridge Wells, but I fancied going somewhere a little different. And what better idea than to hop on a train along the Tonbridge-Redhill line, heading towards the latter town but alighting one stop before that important rail junction?

That meant getting off at Nutfield, a large village that is the final stop before Redhill. It’s a place that I’d never visited before, not by car and certainly not by rail, and more importantly, I realised I could pick up a pub in Edenbridge on the same outing. The place I had in mind was a pub that I hadn’t set foot in for thirty‑plus years. So that’s exactly what I did. 

Before describing the day itself, here are a few facts and figures about the Tonbridge-Redhill line, a route that was once the main railway artery between the capital and the Kent coast. Rather than bury myself in dates and statistics (which, knowing me, would have taken all afternoon), I let my Copilot friend do the research instead, and this is what it came back with.

The Tonbridge–Redhill railway, historically known as the Redhill  line, is one of the oldest sections of main‑line railway infrastructure in the Southeast. Its story is surprisingly rich for a line that today feels like a quiet local shuttle, so make yourselves comfortable and read on. The Tonbridge- Redhill line opened in May 1842, after being authorised by Parliament in 1836. It was part of the South-Eastern Railway’s original London-Dover main line, running from Redhill through to Tonbridge. Because it was intended for fast long‑distance running, it was designed with few curves and little concern for local population centres, which is why today, many stations sit some distance from the villages they serve.

In 1868, the SER opened a new, and more direct main line via Orpington and Sevenoaks, with several major tunnels and faster running times. This relegated the Tonbridge-Redhill line to local service status. The line became part of Southern Railway in 1923, and then British Railways Southern Region in 1948. Steam services ended in 1965 and were replaced by diesel multiple units.Electrification,  750 V DC third rail, was authorised in 1990 and completed in 1993–94, a process that allowed the role of the line to shift again, to a diversionary line for both Eurostar, as well as Southeastern services, before settling back into today’s all‑stations shuttle.

I became a regular user of the Tonbridge-Redhill line, when I moved to Tonbridge at the tail end of 1984, because coinciding with my change of address, was me joining, a moribund CAMRA branch, and helping to get it back on its feet. So, what was originally the Tonbridge & Tunbridge Wells branch of CAMRA, eventually became West Kent branch. I shan’t go into any more details here, but having re-established the branch and formed a new committee, we were charged with surveying all the pubs in the area (keg as well as cask), with a view to selecting suitable pubs for the following year’s Good Beer Guide.

Quite a task, but I was 40 years younger then, as were my fellow new committee members. One stipulation we made was that future branch meetings should be held at pubs that were accessible, as much as possible, by public transport, and with few bus services operating into the evening, this effectively meant places close to a station. It was during these surveys that I first became acquainted with settlements along the Tonbridge- Redhill line, including Leigh, Chiddingstone Causeway, Edenbridge and Redhill itself.

The latter town whilst not within the West Kent area, provided an ideal meeting point for socials with one of the neighbouring Surrey branches. The Home Cottage, owned by Young’s Brewery, was the pub of choice, given its proximity to Redhill station. I also starting using the line for other purposes, such as travel to work, where Penshurst station, provides an occasional alternative to driving. The line is also useful for travel to and from Gatwick Airport, even if it does involve a change of platform at Redhill.

So, what were the two pubs that I visited the other day? First up was the Station Pub, in Nutfield which, as its name suggests, is literally a stone’s throw from the station. Just walk away from the down platform, turn the corner, and less than five minutes later, you will come across this large, and much altered, late-Victorian establishment. The pub was built for the Reigate Brewery of Mellersh & Neale, to serve the community that was growing up around Nuffield railway station.

The Station Pub was much larger than I had expected, although the name "Hotel” ought perhaps to have given the game away. I’m assuming that in its heyday, the place must have provided accommodation for travellers, and those stepping inside will be greeted by a number of bright and characterful rooms, overlooking a well-laid out, rear garden. Today, the pub proudly proclaims that it’s a drinks-focused pub, with no kitchen and no fuss, but that doesn't mean visitors will go hungry. Instead, a range of regular, food “pop-up partners” bring something special to the table when they visit. I didn’t find out when the food might be, as having breakfasted just a few hours ago I wasn’t exactly hungry.

Outside, a couple were enjoying the early October sunshine, while a group of fella’s sat towards the back of the pub. I noticed a woman who I’d seen on the train, standing at the bar. She seemed to know the barmaid and must have hurried away from the station to get there before me. The pair paused their conversation to allow the barmaid to serve me, offering a choice Taylor’s Landlord – complete with the new look pump clip, a Hobgoblin ale of some description, and the ubiquitous Harvey's Best. I opted for the latter, but unfortunately, it wasn’t the best pint of Sussex that I’ve had recently. It wasn’t off and it wasn’t flat, and if anything, it tasted too young.

It was also overly chilled, which didn’t help either, which meant I was struggling to finish it. I also realised that my train back towards Edenbridge was due shortly, so I returned about a quarter of the unfinished pint to the bar and apologised to the girl by explaining that I wasn’t feeling particularly bright. A white lie I know, but one that prevented a minor diplomatic incident, without bruising anyone's ego! I then headed back to the station, crossed the footbridge, and waited for the next service back towards Tonbridge.

The train was more or less on time, and after passing through Godstone, it wasn’t long before we arrived at Edenbridge. There are two rail stations serving the town, with the one at the top, and the one I arrived at, simply called Edenbridge. From here it is about a 20-minute walk down to the town centre, where, just beyond the centre of the Old Town, lies Edenbridge Town station. This station is on a completely separate rail line running towards Uckfield, via Eridge and Crowborough  .

Returning to the pub visits, I left the train at Edenbridge station (the top one), and walked through a new housing development, which partly occupies the site of the former Albion pub, a long-vanished establishment that I had only visited a couple of times before. From there, I continued northwards, and away from the town, along the B2026.  A short distance further, in the area known as Marlpit Hill, is the Swan Inn.

The latter is a long and fairly narrow, brick-built pub, that has been sympathetically modernised, without losing its essential character. The sole cask offering was Taylor’s Landlord, and this time still with the old-style clip. It was also in tip-top condition. With the sun now shining, and the temperatures starting to climb, I took my pint outside, into the extensive garden, at the rear of the pub, and sat there enjoying the beer. One could tell it was Friday by the number of builders’ vans pitching up, as the thirsty Chippies, Brickies and Sparkies  finished their work for the week, to be rewarded with a well-earned pint or two.

It was time for me to finish too, so I made my way back to the station, and boarded the 14:16 service back to Tonbridge, just ahead of the manic hordes of excited school kids, about to be set free, at the end of another busy, academic week.  

Kirkwall, capital of the Orkney Islands

Kirkwall, capital of the Orkney Islands, was a delight, and was our first port of call on our recent cruise, after one day and two nights at sea. The skies were overcast when we arrived and the temperatures much colder than we'd been used to back in Kent, for much of the summer. It was also was nice to see plenty of bright green grass after weeks of looking out over parched and burnt lawns, roadside verges, and sad, bare-looking hedgerows. Kirkwall, itself is a lovely little town, untouched and unsullied by many of the 21st‑century woes that afflict mainland Britain (litter and mindless graffiti, posing as art).

A shuttle bus, laid on by the cruise line, drove us into town, and dropped us at the bus station, close to the town’s cathedral. This compact building is constructed from local stone, that has an unusual reddish tint to it, although for the life of me, I couldn’t tell you what the stones are. This is despite achieving an “O” level in geology. We then took a wander down towards harbour, passing lots of familiar shops on the way, along with banks that were still trading, unlike many of those back home. We even noticed a proper Royal Mail, Post Office. The drop in temperature, I mentioned earlier necessitated Mrs PBT’s buying us each a warm and attractive-looking woolly hat, as we’d foolishly left our own headgear back home in “tropical” Kent.

We stopped at a colourful looking coffee shop, which I think was attached to one of the local breweries. We sat out in the courtyard, overlooked by a colourful mural, painted on the back of some of the local houses. We then headed down towards the harbour, picking up a few more goodies on the way. A pint was in order, but it wasn’t quite opening time, so we sat admiring the tranquil scene of the boats in the harbour, and before long staff at the small and attractive Helgi’s Bar, were opening the door. We were the first customers of the day, although not for long.

Helgi’s is a current Good Beer Guide entry, and after spending some time there, it’s easy to understand why it achieved CAMRA Northern Isles, Pub of the Year. There were three beers on sale from local brewery, Swannay - Sunny in Birsay 3.4%, Dark Monro 4.0% and Scapa Special 4.2%, which was the beer I went for, a perfectly balanced beer for every day quaffing. Swannay are based in a rustic farmstead in the north westerly tip of Orkney’s mainland. It wasn’t long before Helgi’s started to get busy, but despite the beers and the friendly atmosphere we've decided not to eat, as we only really wanted a light bite.

After leaving the pub we made our way back to the bus station and then the shuttle bus back to the ship. After a spot a lunch, we ascended to the pool deck, and spent a pleasant and lazy afternoon soaking up the sun. The views out across the calm waters of Scapa Flow - the legendary semi-enclosed, area of water that provided a calm and sheltered anchorage, for the Royal Navy’s Home Fleet, during two world wars. We remained there, enjoying the warm weather until the 6pm sail-away, when Ambience bade farewell to Kirkwall and Orkney. 

Our time there was spoilt slightly because a local Pipe Band had been booked to play for the sail-off, but unfortunately the the music of the band was partially drowned out by the dross emanating from the ship's "entertainment" system. 

The volume hadn't been turned down sufficiently, so we had to try and listen to the the local musicians whilst at the same time putting up with sounds of the 70’s and 80’s drowning out the local performers. Leaving the quayside behind us, we enjoyed the sail away, as we headed out in the direction of the nearby island of Hoy. I remember watching, with my father, a live televised broadcast, of a group of climbers, successfully scaling the impressive sea stack, known as the Old Man of Hoy. This was back in the late 1960’s, and was the first time that this lump of rock had been climbed.

Leaving Hoy behind, we headed out into the main channel. Then following a south-westerly setting, we sailed towards the island of Lewis and the port of Stornoway, where we would be docking the following morning. So despite an all too brief glimpse of Orkney’s capital, we enjoyed our time on this far northerly part of the British Isles. One final thing we noticed, was the number of Norwegian flags being flown from buildings in Kirkwall. Now this was either a tribute to the King of Norway, who had died a few days previously, or it might have been due to the large number of inhabitants of both Orkney and Shetland, who claim Viking descent. An interesting point, but the people who live in these islands, are definitely not Scottish.

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Lewes finally, and a few classic Sussex pubs

After a couple of introductory posts, it's time to dive into the heart of my recent trip to Lewes and bring you the pub news that I know you’ve all been waiting for. Following my al fresco, AI-approved, pasty and coffee lunch, I set off along Cliffe High Street, crossing the ornate bridge over the river Ouse, with the iconic view of Harvey's Brewery to my left. I then turned directly opposite into the narrow road leading to the John Harvey Tavern, a charming establishment that has mellowed beautifully over the years. Although a relatively new addition to the Harvey’s tied estate, the pub has matured into a thriving two-bar establishment housed in a building faced with local flints.

I opted for the room on the right, which houses the main bar, whereas the room opposite is more of an overspill area, that is handy for diners. There is also a large upstairs room, a fact I recall from a presentation evening I attended a couple of decades ago. That was when Mrs. PBT’s and I had our own off-licence in Tonbridge and had an account with Harvey's. We regularly bought draft and bottled beers, as well as a range of interesting wines, which is what led to the invitation. You can read the story of that evening here, but spoiler alert most of it passed in an alcoholic haze, largely due to a surfeit of vintage port.

The John Harvey Tavern provided an excellent venue for the presentation and the drinks, and whilst I’ve made several return visits since, stepping inside the pub is a guaranteed to bring a smile to my face, as I recall that rather boozy evening. The Tavern is always a pleasant place to be, given its tucked away location close to the river and virtually opposite the brewery yard. Several Harvey’s beers were on tap that day, as you can see from the photo, but my tipple of choice was Lewes Castle Brown Ale, a beer not often seen in cask form but tasty and enjoyable.

Moving further along Cliffe High Street, takes the thirsty visitor to the Gardener's Arms, a small, but thriving pub that has long been regarded as Lewes's premier, independent ale house. The Gardener’s consists of two, quite basic rooms - a front bar and a back bar with a serving area in the middle. Serving up to four different ever-changing cask ales, it attracts many local characters. During my relatively short stay at the bar, I engaged with a couple of local wags, plus a barmaid who clearly knew both her beers, as well as keeping customers in order.

I wasn't quite as impressed though with the beer she recommended, as a substitute for the Burning Sky, Plateau, advertised on the chalkboard outside. The latter unfortunately, had just ran out, and the 4.0% Hip-Hop from Langham Brewery, was far too citrusy for my liking. I'm not very familiar with Langham beers, and I’m not even sure where the place is. One local claimed that it’s near Chichester, but regardless of its origin, it wasn’t the beer for me. Never mind, you win some, you lose some, and the atmosphere and banter in the Gardener’s more than made up for a beer that I struggled to enjoy.

Next, I set out in search of a pub I knew vaguely about, both in name and location, but had never visited. Crossing the road, I walked back up the steep School Hill, which was enough to get my heart pounding and legs aching. At the top, I turned right into Fisher Street, passed a now-closed pub, whose name escapes me, located near the War Memorial. I remember visiting it once on November 5^th and actually getting served—not always easy if you weren’t a member of a local bonfire society. The pub I was looking for was the Elephant and Castle, and the vague idea I had of its location, on the northern flank of the imposing Lewes Castle mound, turned out to be correct.

Unfortunately, the pub was closed, boarded up and looking a bit sorry for itself. I'm not sure why it closed, or when it ceased training, but looking at the condition of the building, I would say the closure took place quite recently. According to the Harvey’s website, the Elephant & Castle belongs to the brewery, and is described as a traditional Lewes pub, that was built in 1838.  Selling four cask ales alongside a number of craft beers, and a Good Beer Guide pub for 15 years. Home of Commercial Square Bonfire Society, with good, home cooked food served daily, plus the best pub function room in Lewes. So why is the place closed? Answers please, on a postcard.

I took a couple of pictures and walked back up to the castle mound, then down again to visit a classic Lewes pub and one of my favourites, in the town. I’m talking about the Lewes Arms, an attractive brick-built pub with a prominent rounded corner, close to the former Beards Brewery in Star Lane.  A quick side step before we move onto the Lewes Arms. Beards were a company that had opted out of brewing in 1958, primarily because their cramped, town-centre brewery, was suffering from a lack of space and, more seriously, a yeast infection. Beards felt that by pooling resources with Harvey’s, the future of both companies would be assured. Harvey’s would benefit from the increased capacity, whilst Beards would not have the bother of having to brew the beer themselves.

This arrangement lasted until 1986, when Beards pubs became free to choose from a wide range of different cask ales supplied by the company’s wholesaling division. This side of the business was later sold off; becoming the well-known wholesaling company The Beer Seller. In the summer of 1998, Beard & Co agreed the sale of their entire tied estate to Greene King, and the company to all intents and purposes ceased to exist. It was rumoured that Harvey’s were somewhat put out by this deal, as not only did they lose their supply contract with Beards, but they also lost the chance to buy the company’s pubs. Harvey’s, had been under the impression they would get “first refusal” on the Beards estate, should it ever come up for sale, although Harvey’s have never openly admitted this. The Beards brewery buildings still stand, although they have now been converted into an arts centre alongside spaces for a number of small businesses.

Back to the pub, and last Friday the Lewes Arms was serving beers from Fuller's, St. Austell, and Gale’s. When I arrived, the pub was quiet, with just a handful of middle-aged drinkers chatting in the front bar, passing the time of day and sharing the banter. I settled in the rear bar, which was a nice cosy and comfortable space, albeit with a view through the glass, into the front bar.  I stayed for a pint of Seafarers, which was in good condition, before making my way past the sprawling Beards complex and heading back down to High Street. It was then on to the station and the train home, but not before one final pint. You might recall from my previous post, that the bus journey down to Lewes, was something of a drag - not quite a complete nightmare, but it felt as though it went on forever. The train, which despite involving changing at either St. Leonards or Gatwick, was the quickest and most comfortable way back to Tonbridge. Unlike the bus, I would have to buy a ticket, but with a third off the price, due to my "Old Git’s" Railcard, the faster journey would be worth every penny.

I consequently headed down Station Street, passing on my left, the Royal Oak, another former Beards pub. I was tempted to nip in, but it was getting late, and I had promised Mrs PBT’s that I’d be back in time for tea. I therefore gave the Royal Oak a miss and continued to the bottom of the hill and called in at the Landsdown instead. Located conveniently close to Lewes station, the Lansdown Arms is a quirky pub, with a raised floor area at the far end. Signs notify visitors of the possible trip hazard, but customers only really need to take a step up, if they wish to visit the toilets.  

Harvey’s Best, Pells Pale, Landlord, plus Thornbridge Jaipur, were the cask offerings, and the latter was the obvious
choice for me. I have made several visits to the Landsdown, over the years, and have always found it to have a real local feel, without being too cliquey. The flagstone floor and old-world interior, help in this respect, and the location almost opposite the station, make it the ideal pub for those arriving or departing Lewes, by train.

My journey home, followed the south coast route via Polegate and Eastbourne, followed by a change of trains at St Leonards. The revenue enforcement staff were checking tickets, on board the service out of Eastbourne, as apparently this section of the network, is prone to fare dodging – and you all thought the town that is home to a high percentage of the over-65’s, was such a quiet and genteel sort of place? 

Seaside towns don’t always attract the right sort of people, as a work colleague, who lives in Worthing, has testified, on several occasions. I was alright, though, despite having difficulty in retrieving my paper ticket. Tonbridge still issues proper card tickets, unlike those flimsy efforts on the Southern part of the rail network, as Stafford Paul will remember from our visit to Chichester a couple of years ago.