Lewes on a mission

 

Friday’s trip to the charming Sussex town of Lewes, saw me notching up a further four pubs, taking my total for the first month of the year to 20. If I can keep this rate up over the next 11 months, then I should quite easily pass last year’s total of 106 different hostelries. Despite this flying start, I’m not really in the numbers game, as if I was, then I’m sure I could squeezed in a few more pubs. 

My reasons for travelling to Lewes were two-fold, and despite my protestations of innocence, Mrs PBT’s quite easily saw through my non-too cunning plan. That plan was to return  twenty or so, empty beer bottles to that jewel in the brewing crown, Harvey’s of Lewes. These bottles had accumulated over the past 18 months or, and were taking up space in the garden shed, Admittedly, not a massive amount of space, but I still wanted to return them to the brewery and do my bit for the environment. More to the point, a trip down to Harvey’s would provide the perfect opportunity to visit a few of Lewes’s charming pubs, as well as being an enjoyable day out, with a welcome change of scenery.

With three shopping bags full of these rather sturdy returnable bottles, waiting by the back door, it was just a matter of time before the lady of the house noticed them. “You’re not going to lug all those bottles down to the station?” she asked. “Why not”, I replied, but then, after thinking about it some more, I had to agree that my wife was right (she quite often is!) She suggested waiting, until we were going down that way, by car, but if I was to agree with that, the reasoning behind my trip to the town, would be lost. I compromised, by taking just two bags, which was the far more sensible approach, although I didn’t tell her, so!

I set off for the station, with the intention of taking the 10am train, but as with my trip to Hastings, a couple of weeks earlier, it was a question of history being doomed to repeat itself. I had allowed sufficient time for the walk, and for purchasing my ticket, but what I hadn’t allowed for was being caught by a former neighbour, who ambushed me as I strolled passed the local newsagents. My protestations about not stopping, as I had a train to catch, seemed to fall on deaf ears, and by the time I’d managed to extricate myself, I was in serious danger of missing my train. (What is it with well-meaning neighbours, with far too much time on their hands?

As things turned out, I missed the Redhill train by the same margin as a couple of weeks ago, but only because the three-coach Southern train was parked at the far end of platform one, due to a twelve coach South-Eastern service, seemingly abandoned, and taking up most of the available space. I heard the departure announcement, and tried legging it along the platform, but it wasn't easy with two bags of bottles hampering my efforts to put a spurt on. Unfortunately, the Southern driver ignored my arm waving and impassioned pleas for him to wait, and the train departed dead on the dot of 10am.

I seemed doomed, and what was worse was the alternative option of the Hastings train, was just pulling in on platform 3. This meant a hurried sprint, back along platform 1, up the stairs and then back down. Fortunately, I managed to hop on in time, although it was a close-run thing. Who says this pub-ticking lark doesn’t keep you fit? So, once again it was a journey along the 1066 Line, if the successors to British Rail still call it that, with a change of train, and platform at St Leonards. This is a slightly strange journey, because for a while the route follows the coast, and the pebble beaches of Bexhill and Pevensey, before heading into Eastbourne, where the imposing heights of the South Downs rise ominously to the left of one’s vision. The service then reverses back out of Eastbourne, before heading off in a north-westerly direction towards Polegate and Lewes.

This visit to the Sussex County Town, was going to be different, because I would be avoiding the familiar honeypots of the Gardeners, the Lewes Arms, the John Harvey Tavern and several other hostelries, for a selection of the lesser visited, but no less worthy of Lewes’s pubs, places that I either hadn’t visited before – quite difficult after working in the town, for three years, during the early 90’s, establishments I hadn’t been back to, since that time. But first there was the question of those empty beer bottles to deal with.

I arrived in Lewes, shortly before
midday, relieved to have left the rather crowded train behind me. I walked up, across the bridge towards the Landsdown Arms, a corner pub that also titles itself as Platform 6, due to its proximity to the rail station. Continuing along Landsdown Place, I eventually reached the area of town known as Friars’ Walk. On the way, I couldn’t help but notice the independent shops and businesses whose number increased, the closer to the town centre that I reached. Over several visits to Lewes, during recent years, I’ve come away with the impression that the town has a real independent streak, running through its heart, and by the later comment I feel that nonconformity is the name of the game, but without any of the religious baggage associated with that term.

I’m reminded of several other UK towns that have a similar feel to them, places such as Hebden Bridge, and Totness, even though it is many years since I last visited either settlement – note to self, I must rectify those anomalies, sooner rather than later. However, it was whilst sitting in  a pub, in the Cliffe area of Lewes that I was reminded of the “free spirit” vibe associated in the town that manifests itself, every November 5^th that encapsulates the town, even if the events commemorated on that day do have a religious significance – “We wunt be druv,” as the official motto of the county of Sussex so succinctly puts it!

Arriving at Harvey’s attractive and well-stocked brewery shop, the first thing I did was to hand over my stash of bottles, which was gratefully received by the counter staff. Whilst there, I couldn’t resist picking up a couple of new Harvey’s beers, although as they were both in canned form, they wouldn’t need returning to Lewes, to be recycled. And then for the pubs – four of them, and each with their own individual stories to tell. As a clue, all but the final one were Harvey’s tied houses, and the one that wasn’t, forms the lone outpost of a brewery a couple of counties to the west, of Sussex.

I’m afraid their story will have to wait until next time, in order to do them justice, but what I will mention instead is that after the dramas of missed connections, and which route to opt for, my homeward journey passed surprisingly smoothly, even if it did involve an additional change of train. After being advised by booking office staff, at Lewes station, I joined the 15:35 service to London Victoria. With no connection to Redhill, I had to hop off at Gatwick and join a Thameslink train. Arriving at Redhill, the conveniently timed service to Tonbridge was waiting to depart from the adjacent platform, enabling me to make a virtually seamless connection. Now, if only my outward journey had been that simple!

Pre-loading in Tunbridge Wells, prior to dinner with the directors

I was in Tunbridge Wells on Friday night, for what can best described as a “Works Do.”  Technically, it was a meal out with a group of directors from our Japanese parent company, who had flown over for a board meeting. This visit is an annual event, although this time it was beefed up by the presence of the group president, in what was his first visit to our company. The dinner took place to wrap up the two-day visit, and as a member of the senior management team, I was invited to join the group for an evening meal. 

This was despite Friday being a “non-working day” for me. It might come across as a little mercenary of me to show up for a “free meal”, but there were some genuine reasons for me to attend, not least of which was the opportunity to meet up with those Japanese visitors who I knew from previous visits to the UK. These visits were rather more than fleeting business trips, because it is head office policy to second one of their employees to come and work as a “researcher” at our company, normally for an extended three period of three or more years. Providing they can manage being away from their home country for that length of time, it’s an ideal position to be offered, because the chosen individual will be allowed to bring their spouse over with them, along with any children they might have. They are able to choose a suitable flat, or apartment, which will be provided at a nominal rent, for the duration of their stay. 

They are also given a car, to enable them to drive into work and back, each day. The final perk is the hours they are required to work, as whilst they are in line with our normal working times, they are invariably considerably less than the insanely long attendance times that are common in Japan. Two former “interns”, were amongst Friday’s group, and they have done pretty well for themselves, with both appointed as company directors for the UK business. 

 

 It was therefore good to catch up with them, that evening, at a rather nice  Mediterranean restaurant called, Rocca,  situated at the bottom end of Tunbridge Wells High Street. I didn’t carry out a headcount, but our combined groups occupied a couple of tables, on the first floor of this imposing building. The food was top notch, and the company equally good. The beer wasn’t really up to much, but that was to be expected, and the couple of pints of Estrella Damm I consumed were still a good match for the rich and spicy Mediterranean food.

Prior to meeting up with the joint UK-Japanese group, I took the opportunity to call in at a couple of local pubs, located in the Pantiles area of the town. The outlet I want to make special mention of is the Mad Dog Brewery Taproom, which opened recently, in the premises formerly occupied by the Pantiles Tap.

I wrote about this impending overcharge in November last year, but having now has the chance of visiting the place I can report that the Tap is ticking over nicely. Located partially underground in the old cellar/kitchen of what was the first pub on the Pantiles, the Tap’s interior provides a stylish yet relaxed atmosphere, with a rustic wooden décor, and communal tables that encourages visitors to linger over a pint or two.

I had an informative chat with the friendly and knowledgeable girl behind the bar, who has been at the pub since it reopened under its new owners. She told me that whilst things were understandably quiet in mid-January, they had enjoyed a good Christmas that was preceded by an equally good December. The pub needed quite a bit of work, following the departure of the previous owners, and one thing the new management were determined about, was not to let the clutter that had accumulated, to build up again. This was a reference to, but not a criticism of, the previous owners. I didn’t count the number of beers on sale, but Mad Dog produce a range of 14 vegan-friendly and preservative free beers, with five of them being gluten free, as well.

I said to the bar manager, that I found it strange to be opening a pub that is so remote from Mad Dog’s Cardiff home, but she told me that the brewery owner lives relatively close to Tunbridge Wells, and with a further outlet in Brighton, plus one in Cheltenham, perhaps this is part of a gradual expansion strategy. I couldn’t stay too long, although I did explain I was a lapsed CAMRA member who still kept in touch with the local branch. She mentioned one, well-known character, who lives nearby, although I won't embarrass him by revealing his name. As with the previous owners, no cask is available at the Tap, but that could change in the future.

Before saying goodbye, I enjoyed a glass of Mad Dog’s oatmeal stout which, despite its daft name – Stouty McStout Face, was rather good. So, the Tap is well worth a visit, next time you are in the area, and whilst no cask is currently available, what is on sale still provides a welcome addition to the local drinking scene. Guests can expect a rotating selection of seasonal specials and experimental brews exclusive to the taproom, so watch this space. Final note on this post, I also called in at the Fuller's-owned, Duke of York which, although not full to capacity, wasn't far off it. This was followed by a very swift half, at the Ragged Trousers, which seemed popular that evening with "loved-up" couples, and their canine companions. 

 

As German beer sales tank, some unwelcome changes start appearing

I was saddened, and also puzzled, when I learned the other day of developments affecting the world’s oldest monastic brewery. I’m talking here about the historic Weltenburg Abbey, which has been brewing beer for the best part of 1,000 years. The monastery, which lies to the south west of Regensburg, occupies a spectacular setting on the banks of the river Danube, and acts as a place of pilgrimage for both religious devotees and beer lovers. 

However, the news story, which featured recently in the Guardian, and several other publications, seems confused regarding what is really happening with the Kloster Weltenburg beer brands, and to get to the bottom of what is going on, we have to journey back 50 years, to a time when the monastery brewery was experiencing capacity problems that are opposite to what is happening today.

Back then capacity restraints had led to the transfer of a number of the paler Weltenburg beers to the Regensburg based, Bischofshof Brewery. Brewing of the monastic beers was carried out alongside Bishofshof’s own brands but now, in what seems like a cruel twist of fate, production of both Bischofshof and the Regensburg Kloster Weltenburg brands will transfer to the Schneider Weisse Brewery, in nearby Kelheim. Wheat beer lovers will be familiar with Schneider beers which are widely available throughout Bavaria, and beyond, but the brewery isn’t particularly well known for traditional beers brewed from malted barley.

The company obviously have the capacity to handle the additional production, and the move will provide a welcome cash saving for Kloster Weltenburg and the Catholic Church. Kloster Weltenburg remains in the hands of that particular religious body, and production at the monastery will carry on in the same vein as it has done for the past millennia, but has the church played a part in the closure of Bischofshof, by throwing it under the proverbial bus? I write this because I noticed, in the news article, that the Regensburg Diocese is seeking placement for the 56 Bischofshof workers who are being made redundant, as an historic brewery, that was founded in 1649, closes its doors and ceases production at the end of 2026.

These developments are the result of a dramatic decline in beer sales, not just in Germany, but in many other western countries, including the UK. Beer is suffering from an image problem in Germany, as consumers turn their backs on classic beers, bound by the historic “purity law”, or Reinheitsgebot. According to Germany’s main industry body, turnover has shrunk by a quarter in the last 15 years, and in 2025, consumption fell by 5 million hectolitres, the biggest decline in 75 years. 

Despite this decline, the German beer market has, remained, stubbornly different, with just a few dozen national or global players jostling for space against the output of around 1,500 small and medium-sized breweries. A result of this fierce loyalty to regional brands, is that Germany does not have a single brew among the world’s top 10 selling beers. This is rather surprising given its long and proud tradition, of brewing and enjoying beer.

I am particularly sad to see the historic Bischofshof Brewery close, as son Matthew and I called in at the brewery tap on several occasions, during our first visit to Regensburg in 2008. On two later visits to this lovely old, medieval city on the river Danube, this time with Mrs PBT’s accompanying us as well, Bischofshof beers seemed widely available. Our first time in the city involved a couple of trips to the brewery, which is tucked away in a residential area of Regensburg, where there are some rather expensive looking houses. Perhaps property values and redevelopment opportunities are also factors behind the closure of what to me, appeared a quite modern and efficient brewery.

It was on that first visit to Regensburg that we took a trip out to Kloster Weltenburg, where we enjoyed some of the beers brewed at the monastery. Our journey there involved a train ride and then a local bus to the small town of Kelheim, situated on the banks of the river Danube. Upon arriving in the town, we located the waterside departure point and booked ourselves a return ticket. The boats which ply up and down the river, between March and November, are similar to those you see on the Thames, and in order to make the most of the scenery we would soon be passing through, and the glorious June sunshine, we sat outside on the top deck of the boat, in order to enjoy the views.

Our journey took us past the impressive Walhalla Monument, before we approached the entrance to the steep-sided Danube Gorge. The boat made slow, but steady progress against the fast-flowing river, and before long we were surrounded on both sides by high limestone cliffs, towering majestically over the river, as our boat continued its voyage along this spectacular gorge. 

Then, as we rounded a bend we could see Kloster Weltenburg ahead on the left-hand bank. The ship’s captain slowed our vessel down to enable us to approach the landing stage and moorings, which were a few hundred yards away from the monastery, and a five-minute walk. Making a careful note of the departure times, we made our way to the monastery which sits on a spit of land made up of fine white pebbles, which juts out into the river. This was definitely the most pleasant and most relaxing means of arriving at this Baroque style abbey, which remains the home of a monastic community that has been here since the 11^th Century.

As mentioned earlier Weltenburg’s darker beers are still brewed at the monastery, and we were able to sample a few of these (Barock Dunkles plus Anno 1050), in the shaded, courtyard beer garden. We also enjoyed a hearty Bavarian lunch of Leberkaas and potato salad, in the company of several dozen other beer enthusiasts. Afterwards we had a brief look inside the impressive monastery church, which has ceiling frescoes painted by the renowned Asam Brothers, before catching the mid-afternoon boat back to Kelheim. The return journey took half the time of the outward one, as we were now travelling with the swiftly moving current, rather than fighting against it.

Whilst saddened at the impending closure of the historic Bischofshof Brewery, I enjoyed putting this piece together. I particularly found it interesting to look back at the events of 18 years ago, when I visited the beautiful city of Regensburg for the first time, an event that allowed me to enjoy beers from the three local breweries. Most importantly, was the opportunity of looking back on that boat trip, through the spectacular Danube gorge, to the historical gem that is Kloster Weltenburg.

 

 

An afternoon in Hastings, with a few good pub memories along the way

Crown

Last Saturday, I took a train down to Hastings. It had been quite a few years since I last visited this seaside town, although my decision to travel there was the result of that old, weekend favourite, “engineering works”. My original intention had been to travel to Lewes, as I had several bags of reusable bottles to return to the Harvey’s Brewery Shop. Remarkably, Harvey’s are one of the few UK brewers that still supply beer in returnable bottles—a practice that was once universal in the brewing industry. The brewery has refined its approach, opting for 500-millilitre metric bottles rather than the traditional half-pint or one-pint sizes. 

The bottles themselves are sturdy and purposely designed to withstand the rigours of numerous trips between the brewery and its pubs, and that latter category includes, or course, private individuals like me. For their part, Harvey’s claim it is beneficial for returned bottles to be cleaned and refilled for as long as is practically possible. For my part I feel a sense of responsibility in returning these items, knowing I am contributing to environmental sustainability. An additional reason for doing so is that a visit to Lewes provides me with an excuse to explore this charming old town, and its equally attractive pubs

The reason for my change of mind was the reduction in the normal train service, due to the aforementioned engineering works. There are normally, two trains an hour between Tonbridge and Lewes, that take advantage of the routes available. Both options involve a change of trains, either at St Leonard's, if one follows the Tonbridge-Hastings route, or Redhill, if one takes the cross-country option between Tonbridge and the latter mainline station. Both routes take a similar amount of time, with both charged at the same rate, providing flexibility to travellers journeying from Tonbridge.

Given the fact I was on a relatively tight time schedule, it made sense to go for the half hourly Hastings option, because if I just missed a train (which I actually did) I wouldn't have too long to wait for the following one. And why did I narrowly miss my intended train? I was ambushed by my next-door neighbour, whilst doing my good deed for the day, which was putting the wheelie-bins back after they’d just been collected. Terry has lived in the house next to us, for an even longer period than we have in ours, and whilst he’s a pleasant enough chap, he can talk for England and probably Scotland as well. But when you’re in a hurry he is the last person, you want to get caught with.

Amongst other things, he told me he was getting over the flu, or whatever bug has been doing the rounds recently. That was my cue to suggest he’d better get back in the warm, as well as the signal for me to disappear. I didn't take the quickest route to the station because I wanted to see what progress, if any, had been made on the former Somerhill pub in Pembury Road. This is the pub I mentioned before Christmas, now undergoing extensive renovations. After a decent exterior paint job, the top floor windows are being refurbished or replaced, with similar improvements on the ground floor. The rather scruffy area, at the front of the building is being upgraded to an attractive hard-standing—not likely for parking given the small triangular space, but probably to enhance the pub’s appearance.

I continued down the hill towards the station, and although the sun was shining and the sky bright and free from cloud, there was a bitterly cold wind blowing. Despite increasing my speed, I still missed the train, but only by about 20 seconds. Because after purchasing my ticket, passing through the barrier, and reaching the top of the stairs down to the platform, I witnessed my intended train pulling away. Thanks, neighbour, but with 30 minutes until the next service, I needed somewhere warm to wait in, and I also wanted coffee.

The coffee and refreshment room on the down platform, never reopened after the pandemic, so I headed back up the stairs to FCB, an independently owned coffee shop on the upper station concourse. I asked the ticket collector that having just come through the barrier, and missed my train, could I go back through and grab a coffee. No problem, mate, was the reply, so I dived into FCB and ordered a flat white. There’s a small area inside the shop, where customers can stay and consume their coffee and pastries, although after all that Christmas food, there were none of the latter for me. It was also warm inside FCB, and far more pleasant than waiting on the platform, although to be fair to South Eastern, there is a heated, waiting room where passengers can escape from the cold.

It's a long time since I travelled all the way to the coast on the Hastings line, although I have made a few visits to Robertsbridge, and Bexhill in recent years. With the sun shining, it was a pleasant journey, and on the way down I paused to reflect on some of the pubs that have been lost, along the length of the line. The Rock Robin Inn, directly opposite Wadhurst station was one such establishment, replaced now by some blocks of flats. Still standing, although unfortunately closed are the Bridge Inn, a smashing little pub, next to Stonegate station, whilst at Etchingham – the next former pub, is the De Etchingham Arms, visible from the railway and less than 10 minutes’ walk from the station. This attractive Victorian era pub, situated on the village High Street, was converted to a private residence in 1998.

The rest of the journey was uneventful, although the train was a little late in arriving at Hastings. This was annoying because time was at a premium, and I’d promised Mrs PBT’s that I wouldn’t be too late back. I certainly would be back in time for dinner or tea, as we like to call our evening meal. 

Alighting at Hastings station I realised there was a bus turn around outside the concourse, plus a selection of stops. The idea struck me that getting a bus along the sea front would not only allow a bit more drinking time at the other end but would also save a cold walk along the sea front by getting me away from the bitingly cold wind. In truth, conditions seemed a little warmer than back in Tonbridge, but it’s all relative, and when the Rye-bound, No.100 bus turned up, I was more than happy to hop on board and enjoy the ride.

The bus dropped me at the area known as the Stade, which is opposite those tall wooden buildings, formerly used for the drying of fishing nets. I continued a little further along the sea front, towards the start of Hastings Old Town. I had identified four pubs to try and whilst I knew that I’d been in at least two of them, I wasn’t quite sure about the other two. My first port of call was the Dolphin Inn, a traditional, brick-built, town pub, dating from the 18^th century, and set slightly above pavement level, in the quaintly named Rock-A-Nore-Road.

There are views out towards the seafront, where a few hardy souls were sitting out at the tables in front of the pub. Unless you are a smoker, this is more of a summer attraction. The Dolphin has been in the same family for twenty years and has well-established links with the local fishing community. The place was quite busy, although not absolutely rammed, which meant there were a few vacant tables. I found one to the left of the serving area, which afforded a good view of what was going on in that half of the pub. I plonked myself down, but not before ordering a beer.

The choice was Young’s London Special or Three Acre Brewery Extra Pale. I chose the latter, especially as Young’s beers are a shadow of their former selves, and nothing like the fine, traditional beers that came out of the Ram Brewery, in Wandsworth.  The 4.5% Three Acre beer was very good, though, so I obviously made the right choice. As for the Dolphin, it is definitely an old-school pub, with a few modern twists. I'm not sure whether I've been there before, but if I had to guess, I’d say that I hadn't.

I had definitely been in the next pub, even though I’d forgotten its name in the interim. The Crown is an independent family run free house, in the heart of Hastings Old Town at the foot of the clifftop country park and just a short distance from the beach. It was tastefully refurbished by its current owners, back in 2014, and its wooden floor, hand-made tables and chairs help to creating a relaxed atmosphere. It is a relatively small building, and its popularity means that space is often at a premium at peak times, when it can get very busy.

The pub was certainly heaving when I arrived, which meant I struggled to find space at the bar. I squeezed myself in amongst the drinkers at the bar and ordered a pint of Best Bitter from local brewery, Romney Marsh. 

Their other offering was a golden ale, a style of beer I am not particularly fond of, but I was more than content with the best. Romney Marsh beers crop up in various parts of this area of Kent and East Sussex, with one particular favourite outlet being the Pilot, at Dungeness, a pub famed for its legendary fish and chips.

The food I saw being brought out at the Crown looked equally appetising, but given the number of people inside, I had visions of a lengthy wait, even if I managed to find a place to sit and eat at. I also knew that Eileen would be knocking up a tasty meal for when I got home, so dining at the Crown was a definite no-no, and it was time to move on. I didn’t have to walk far as the Cinque Ports Arms was also in All Saints Street. Dating from 1642, this small pub in the middle of the Old Town, blends in well with surrounding buildings, and is a magnet for tourists and locals alike. The inside has timbered panel walls and pictures of local events. The pub is said to have a sun trap garden at the rear, although this wasn’t really of interest on a freezing cold, mid-January afternoon.

I got the impression that despite its obvious, tourist appeal, the Cinque Ports is very much a locals pub, as evidenced by its 5pm weekday opening time. This is extended at weekends, to midday. Harvey’s Sussex Best and Pells Pale were the cask offerings. I opted for the latter – a relatively new brew from Harvey’s, described by the brewery as “South Downs Sussex spring water, infused with zesty New Zealand and UK Hops”. Despite its relatively low strength of 3.7%, this pale ale is available in both cask and keg forms, all the year round.

One more pub to go now, and not only is it a good one, it’s an establishment that is pretty much mandatory on any visit to Hastings. Situated in the Old Town High Street and navigated to via a couple of narrow side streets, is the First In – Last Out, universally known as the "FILO". This cosy free house is said to date back to the 1500’s and has been an inn since 1896. Family owned since 1988, the FILO began brewing its own beer soon after, initially in the pub itself, but now in a separate facility, a few hundred yards away.

The FILO remains as an attractive and atmospheric single bar pub, which is dominated by a central open fire. The latter proved most welcome last Saturday, as did the FILO’s own beers. There were four on tap, as shown by the photo of the pump clips. With outside temperatures close to freezing it is perhaps no surprise that I should have chosen the 4.6% Cardinal Sussex Porter. I have enjoyed some of the FILO’s other home-brewed beers, during past visits but despite the pub’s reputation for good food, I still haven’t eaten there.

With time marching on, it was time to make my way back to the station, but not before treating myself to a “cone” full of freshly fried chips – courtesy of one of the many fish and chip shops along the seafront. Smothered in salt and vinegar, I scoffed them down greedily as I walked back to the station, enjoying the taste and the mouthfeel of this most traditional seaside snack. With the cold wind on my face, and combination of sea air, fish and chips, plus some fine, unspoiled pubs to reflect on, it was a great time to be alive!